Jaager

Paul, First, if you have not already, check out Hank's thread in this forum /22426-converting-a-backyard-shed-into-a-model-workshop/. I would use Liquid Nails and fit as much pink or blue Star Phone (E. Ky pronunciation) exterior insulation sheeting as will fit between the 2x4's. If you then cover the inside with 4x8 sheets on the 1" white/ foil pressed beads version, it will insulate and brighten the place. Oh, oh, mark the centers for every 2x4 on the outside surface as you cover them over. Stud finders are a royal pain to have to use. A low cost bench = a long, wide Lauian-type flush face hollow core door, fix a furring strip at the back as a splash guard, cover the top with a sheet of Formica-type material (this is what contact cement is for. Do not get too much because it is worthless as an adhesive for ship models). Buy a pair of two drawer economy grade filing cabinets to hold it up. PVA glue 4 pieces of scrap wood on the underside of door to make a socket for the top of each filing cabinet - keeps everything in place, but can easily be taken apart. Toss the 4 filing cabinet drawers and fix a shelf where the bottom of each would have been. Your existing bench is also a candidate for a Formica top. For a dead flat work surface, two pieces of thick safety (museum) glass 12x18 inches - have the glass shop bevel all the edges. For tools, the economical course is like using a bayonet in a mine field. Open the kit, decide what your first step will be, decide which tools will do the job and only buy those. Do this for each subsequent step. This should keep you from sinking a lot of money in buying tools that you will not use - at least until you inevitably contract the tool acquisition virus.

You could go old school and use half concentration shellac, followed by full strength. For anything wood that is already bonded, shellac would be good for them too. You can mask with Frog tape ( is it really made in France?) if it worries you. Application - small brush, a small block cut from a low cost sponge paint brush -- Duco a couple of round tooth picks, or a piece of a bamboo skewer for a handle - a square of cotton rag held in a curved Kelly clamp - for fine attention - a Q-tip? Since they are removed, you might consider a blackening Tx for the brass. Search the forums for the topic, The key to success with this seems to be fresh blackening agent and making sure that the whole surface of the brass is absolutely nothing but brass, no skin oils or anything else.

Bob, No disagreement from me about any sort of Al oxide - open coat. For the longest time, I wondered what the difference was between open coat and closed coat. I was addressing the closed coat Al oxide and Si carbide and Zirconia as being the stuff that could clog. I think that the longer lasting open coat is about having a cloth or heavier paper backing and a bonding agent that is stronger and more heat from friction resistant. The teeth part should be about the same. Dave, Not having a ton of fine saw dust would be a plus, but at least needing protection from it, in addition to a shop vac meant that I had some N-95 masks on hand.

Kirby, From 1:96 to 1:192 is reduction to one half in three dimensions. The volume difference is that your model will be 1/8 that of one built to the plans. !:96 is already partially miniature and 1:192 is decidedly a miniature scale. This will require as much art as it does technical skill, if not more. You will need to be creative in your choice of materials. I see this as work on a different plane from most of us. The production of gems. I find the prospect daunting. Some resources that you may find offer help or inspiration are: Building a Miniature Navy Board Model by Philip Reed Shipbuilding in Miniature by Donald McNarry | Apr 1, 1983 SHIPS IN MINIATURE: The Classic Manual for Modelmakers by Lloyd McCaffery | Mar 1, 2003

With blades, I think thickness planner is a better description. Aspects that I would wonder about: How much fine control over thickness? How often must the blades be sharpened? How difficult is it to get at them? What is the square surface area processed before the blades need to be replaced? How expensive are the blades? Is tear out a significant occurrence? What is the difference in loss to waste compared to a sander? Compared to a thickness sander, I imagine it would go faster. Require fewer passes if the layer to be removed is relatively thick. The waste product would generally be less micro and airborne. Something that requires abatement with a sander. If you are careless and get fingers in harms way, I would think that the amount of you lost would be more than closely trimmed nails or temporarily more sensitive finger tips.

On masts with fore and aft sails with booms, The aftermost shrouds?

Two comments: I buy direct from Klingspor on line. From my reading, I use open coat Al oxide as the cutting medium. It seems that the long life materials are for metals and such, wood clogs, fills the spaces. I wish Jim had used a much stronger spring to restrain the depth wheel. But it only wants to go one way and it is wide enough that a 2" C clamp on the rim stops it by it hitting the housing.

I checked my library. I lost what little Deutsch I had, but none of the illustrations in Hendrik Busmann appear to address the stern at the water line. Tafel II is a 27"x8" color foldout Peter Pett print. There is something in James Sephton. It is in an authoritative voice, but he does not footnote that I can see, so I do not know his source.

I see this as a minor controversy that seems to have lasted about 250 years. Unless some misplaced plans from 1637 finally show up, there is no definitive resolution. It is all a best guess. It is unfortunate that it has taken on more significance than it deserves. It serves to divide into two camps, whose further differences are not evident. This is a large ship. There is much about it to cover in a book. For Frank Fox to disavow McKay's entire book over a couple of choices that are open to interpretation, seems excessive. Better to praise what works and footnote the disagreement. Then publish the alternative in NRJ with the alternate version of the plans. I do not see this as being subject to vote, unless the voter is actually building a model of the ship. And, then, which ever choice is made should have no affect on how that model is judged, if it is an entry in a contest. A museum suit is entitled to use this as a decision point for an acquisition. Given the current fashion / fad exercised by museums, who knows how long it will be before even the possibility is a factor? Now, valid vote or not, I see round. The continuation of the caulking seams in the whole white area, is my key. A flat tuck would have different planking. That said, them's some pretty wide boards between those seams. Did the painter actually see the ship? Did he use a poorly planked model of it as his source?

In thinking about the theory of the thing, it could have a real resistance to solar gain if there was a double roof. Leave the old trusses and plywood (or MDF) sheathing. Remove the old shingles - because of their weight. Add riser blocks to determine the gap and add a new roof with new rafters, sheathing and shingles over it. Active exhaust of the air in the gap would divert the heat. Of course the additional weight may crush the walls and the whole thing be a quantum singularity for your budget. If there was sufficient insulation, a free standing ceramic space heater may be enough for most Winter conditions. Not shirt sleeve, but not ice sickle. I was going to try one in my garage, but I finished what I needed to do down there on La Renommee before it got cold. Then my Black Dog got aholdt of my initiative, so I did not need to buy one.

Hank, I forgot that you inland Tarheels have it a bit warmer and do not have a giant moving heat sink to soak up some of the heat. At least those not on the Outer Banks do not. But they will need webbed feet soon, what with sea level rise. OK, lets do an unrealistic blue sky mitigation. Quick and dirty, a window unit A/C, Duke Power will love your additional contribution. Especially if that box is not insulated. Thick batts of fiberglass insulation between the roof beams, with paper but but not vapor barrier facing. Trapping the humidity would rot the roof, but the paper would stop a constant rain of itching and pulmonary silicosis producing particles. A gabble peak exhaust fan. Looking at your last photo, the loft is almost belly crawl high. An intake vent at that peak - some rain exclusion flaps outside and a way to fit a 2-4" thick Styrofoam air tight cover over the hole in the Winter. The other peak has your porch outside it. Good and bad. Good in that the fan can be at the peak face of the porch and the fan noise will be less. Bad in that the peak of the porch will have to be a tunnel. - a ceiling there. Greenhouse fans come with louver flaps. A simple screen covered opening for the main front peak. A Winter cover there too. I would hate the winterizing and summerizing maintenance. The whole roof can be covered with 4'x8' sheets of 1" foil faced insulation sheets. Just tied down. Foil face out, so that you can blind aviation with the reflection. Or build a "U" shaped structure over the whole building and cover it with a flexible PE reflecting tarp. This could be large enough to exclude direct morning and especially evening solar gain. Back when Carter was pres, I built (had built) a house with a two story solar room in central KY. Summers are just as hot and humid as piedmont Tarheelia with more tornadoes. Great for tomatoes though. Being a second generation tech pioneer - lots and lots of things I would have done differently, if... One of gotcha for that region, it does not sun all that much in the Winter. What was great for New Mexico and Arizona, was not exactly the same.

Do you mean the Washington cutter brig, 1837, 6 gun? The one with lines on page 379 HASN, deck details on page 380, and sail plan with deck details on page 381? These 3 sheets of plans are available from SI -- $10 / page plus $5 mailing @ 1/4":1' scale. I have no idea if Covid 19 has affected the activities of the SI plans department.

Dave, I think the major alternatives are quarter sawn and plane sawn, yes? The way I read the Gilmer quote: their stock is quarter sawn, and the wide face is inside a growth ring. The theoretical and perfect effect would be no grain showing and all one color. More or less perfect for scale effect. The narrow face would be busy with grain and it would be parallel lines. My stock (primarily Hard Maple and Black Cherry) from Yukon Lumber (they are not familiar with Castello) is plane sawn. The wide face is along the growth rings. With that face on the saw table, what the sawn slices show is across the growth rings. The stock for frame timbers has grain effect on the surface that is between each frame. The edge that shows could, in theory, show no grain, if the frame was a box and not curved. It is actually catch as catch can, because the lumber stock is a slice along the length of a cylinder with concentric rings. With Hard Maple, what shows on a cut across the rings face can be plain, flame, tiger, fleck, depending on ring angle and all from the same board. The edge on a single timber can look as though it was two mildly different colored pieces with a curved diagonal scarph. Were I to choose to be OCD about this part, I figure it would throw me into a fugue state. I just live with it. With flatsawn, the face that you choose to lay on the saw table will have a significant and possibly more predictable and uniform effect on what your ultimate display face will look like.

Cape Holly is listed in the Wood Database. If it is similar to ilex except for the color not being white, it will work for most anything and everything. The sample looks like the color varies, so if clear finished wood is the goal, I would use an aniline dye to get a uniform display. You would have to look long and hard to find a wood that works better for planking. White Pear - what I find is Pyrus calleryana in answer to the search. The white refers to the color of the blooms. The cultivar that I am familiar with is Bradford. The wood is hard, tight grain, closed pore. It grows fast, Spring wood and Summer wood are fairly wide and are slightly different in color. But only slightly. It is more brown than pink/red. It has a mildly waxy feel, but glues well. The uses and working characteristics make it a joy to use. I think it is a bit harder than Holly, but should be just as useful - for any part. If what you can get is close to the above and the price is as low as I read it to be, rent a storage locker if you need to, and buy as much as they will sell you. The same with the Boxwood and Pau Marfim. The basic assumption behind this is that your objective is scratch building using POF.

Jolley, You have the advantage of it being domestic for you. Given similar history elsewhere, what seems to be a constant and never ending supply, could just as easily evaporate in the future. It looks as though you can also get Pau Marfim - which is listed as being excellent for masts and yards. What sort of wood do you get with Mixed Indigenous? The price looks good, maybe scrap for jigs, if there are no gems in there?

Provided there is no vapor lock situation with the joist and subfloor plywood, in the spirit of over engineering everything, a layer of Wonderboard could be laid over the plywood and a finish layer over that. Of course you will not be taking a shower out there or worrying about ceiling noise for your down stairs neighbors, but it should stiffen up the walking and stool rolling around on surface. I think my eyes would get really tired of a high contrast - visually busy flooring. If your poly on the bench tops does not hold up, there is always a Formica type surface that can be added - that IS one use for the otherwise dread Dap contact cement.

To pile on even more: Yellow PVA - woodworkers glue - wood to wood - fiber to wood. It is in water and as it reacts, it releases acetic acid - vinegar - not much, just enough to smell sometimes. Metal to wood glue = epoxy. two part mix - lots of choices -messy to use, wants to go where you don't want it. When set it has a strong bond. About your Xacto blades ( knife blades)- they work best if really sharp. Knee jerk reaction is to use a sharpening stone, but unless you have nicked the edge, most of the time, this is overkill. Stropping will keep a sharp cutting edge. A flat piece of leather, rubbed with polishing compd, is what is used. It comes as a green, or gold, or rouge stick, your choice. Use it like a crayon on the leather. Unlike grinding, or whetting, stropping is done away from the edge. On a knife or chisel, make a few cuts, then a few stropping strokes ( the verb for this is?) and the blade should last and last.

Mark, yes, probably even if green. It is probably just me, but I think it would be seriously meshugga to pay the extra cost of shipping green wood from Brazil to Europe, as well as having to deal with the agricultural customs regulations for wood that could harbor pests. Just speculation, but I assumed that it would be kiln dried before it was loaded into a container. But you would be paying a lot for water were it indeed green wood. I come at this from a very specific aspect of all this. This is strictly based on my philosophy and experience, an opinion piece only: I favor POF at a higher end scale, but not a heroic one. A scale of 1:48 would be ideal, detail can be had without too much faking. Not wishing to sacrifice too much detail, but needing to be practical about display size, I opted for 1:60. I wish my imaginary fleet to all be the same scale. Even at 1:60 a first rate man of war is an imposing presence. Using Castello for framing at the larger range of scale, My guess is that a single frigate size vessel may use about 2"x6"x48" or more of your lumber stock. What with the curving timbers, there is a high proportion of waste. Castello is so expensive that it would only make sense to have open framing below the wale, on both sides. With wood this expensive and it becoming difficult to restock, serious tools are needed to process it. This means that a free standing bandsaw with a blade that is stronger than mere steel is needed. The waste from a tablesaw - multiple passes, flipping the stock is too expensive in wood lost to kerf. The one advantage that a tablesaw has over a bandsaw (other than initial cost) is that you do not need to worship at the alter of blade replacement. If you intend to use this just for planking, deck furniture, and masting, your cost in lumber per vessel will be significantly less. However, with boards this large, hard and heavy, it will still require serious shop machinery to work them. Now, if you have the proper tools, skills and time and you load up a large supply, you may be able to sell milled Castello to the community. With it being a sellers market, you would stand a chance of recovering what you spend on tools, blades, and lumber in a reasonable time, and supply a sought after product. HOWEVER, given that this would be skilled labor on your part, I doubt that you would be able to sell this at a price that sufficiently rewards your labor.

My math on this is kind of shaky, I you can get this for ~$28/bf and Gilmer is selling it for $44/bf now. What you are describing is lumber - a board. 6 inches wide by 2 inches thick by 4 feet long. Now, that is a unicorn. My math: 51 lb/ cubic ft. (Wood Database) A bf (board foot) is 144 cubic inches (12" x 12" x 1") 51 / 12 = 4.25 lb/ bf a cubic foot = 12" x 12" x12" $13/2 lb = $6.50/lb $6.50 x 4.25 = $28/bf I am thinking that this is what Chuck was paying back when he could afford to supply it. If my math is correct, Take out a loan and buy as much as you can. Unless this crash produces a World wide deflation, this is a deal. My Hard Maple is ~ $8/bf and Black Cherry is ~ $6/bf - both grow in my region, it is bulk shipping by lumber truck/ You can probably get Acer pseudoplatanus (Sycamore Maple) and Pear for a price in the same ball park, so Castello does not have a monopoly over your choice of scratch build lumber. If you have your heart set on using it, this may be a once in a lifetime deal.

It looks to me as though #27 is a post that is forward of the two #15 sites. It is probably there to secure the anchor cables, when the anchors are in use. #15 are hatches to store anchor cables below. The wing (#26) must allow for easier use of two anchors without the lines becoming fouled at the securing point on deck? With no hole in the stem post at deck level, A bowsprit with its heel against post #27 would steep at too much of an angle to be practical, unless it was a just a stub for a forestay. A stay may secure directly to #27.

Ready made framing stock for a 1st rate @ 1:60 ( 15" in scale ). Depending on the piece, it may want planking over. It is better Basswood than Basswood, except for the color ... often good to ugly on the same piece. A shame about it as display wood, because the bf price for even 10x4 and 12x4 is a lot less than the other domestic species that suitable. I wonder what a cherry or walnut dye in it would look like? Hank, Worse comes to worst, you could always fix your leak using the liquid rubber stuff that the goof on cable keeps hawking. He seems to think that you could coat your shed with it, turn it upside down and paddle it down the PeeDee.

This sort of lamp allows for light to be adjusted.that clamp along my work bench. LED bulbs reduce the weight and heat. I found a deal somewhere for a pack on edge clamps that are more substantial and allow me to pull up and move the actual lamp PRN. I have one that I removed the final lamp bonnet and use cable ties to hold a crevice tool and flex hose attached to a portable vacuum to suck up saw dust with small machines with no vac attachment. it gets the inlet close to the action and keeps it there. I have one - not this brand - but a back wall clamp. It can seem like a scene from a wildlife documentary showing a pack of hyenas at a fresh kill to get my head into the action, if they are positioned too close.

Linen yarn comes in a wide range of diameters. Search the site for posts listing sources. Yours is the continent where it is produced.

One of the things I really liked about WordPerfect was how easy it was to set up a macro. Pre-computer, I was taught by my dissertation director to set up a 3x5 card with keywords, for the photocopies of research articles, so that what was wanted could be found again. There was an old sharewear database program, comma delimited, very straight forward, and easy to use. I used it to do a database for stick and string articles in NRJ, MB, SIS, MSB, and MSW. Windows killed it and I could find no low cost and easy replacement. The data was a txt file, so I can search it using EditPad, but with no macro, it took forever to reformat into something that looked good. Instead of one long line with commas for each entry. I lost heart - just typing was not as much fun as filling in a form - so I can find nothing published after 1995.

Bob, Thank you for the information. This is what I hoped would happen with this post. ( unnecessary editorial comment:) [ I know or have experienced that Seawatch does not do email acknowledgement for orders placed or reassurance via email, but they do respond to email and do fill orders. I just wish that they would get better at patting us on the hand. ] With Shellback , there was nothing - except the PayPal message about the deduction. That was on 3/20. Dead air. I sent an email on 4/4: more dead air. I contacted PayPal on 4/14 - they said to email the vendor, I did: dead air. PayPal took over on 4/30, when I escalated - because they said I was SOL if I did not do that before 5/4. They must have gotten no response either because. I got a full refund on 5/20. I fear that your hope is a forlorn one. I will try your link, because I do want the book.