Jaager

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

It was sort of an exercise in what if were I in your situation.
I admit that I have not needed to Foredom but for the one rabbet experiment.  Flying by the seat of my pants, I opted for the LX model - favoring torque over speed.  I haver never used any Dremel at anything like max speed., so I did not see needing the Foredom that featured that.
 
As for the vac,  I see a table saw and a scroll saw - a 1.25" hose to a vac lets you use them where the light is good and keep the dust down -  if you progress to scratch,  there could be other dustmakers.
 
As for the hole, I would rough saw a ~2.5" hole and fit one of these on the wall on either side - as well as feeding a piece of 12G Romex thru it.

You would want a 220V line but your saw room looks like it could hold a 14" bandsaw -  with this and a Byrnes thickness sander - you are an instant sawmill. 
A Byrnes table saw is wonderful, but a 10" table saw  is a waste of money - a bandsaw is way more useful - unless you are also building actual furniture.
 
These are just thought burrs to sit in your mind for the future.
 
It is too expensive, by I would want a Kalwall skylight to counter the gloom.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

Bob,
I have no recommended source.  My father worked for a commercial laundry that contracted with small local hospitals - back when they were closer to what was seen in The Godfather film.   Interesting things were sometimes folded up in OR drapes.  Some came home.  I was also married to an RN and some equipment did not make it back to CS.   It is all +/- 50 years old or so, but the quality holds.   Even some of the sprung ones work well enough.  Which is probably why they stayed with the laundry.  Surgeons of that time had some really spectacular Ego demonstrations.

1- I forgot to add that my pin pusher also works to remove a pin .
2 - It works bamboo dowels/trunnels up to at least #50.
3 - The tool that I used before the pusher became available also works -  a curved Kelly clamp. 
 
Curved Kelly clamp - I used the size most often carried by RN.  Save frustration and buy quality (European) to begin with - the ones sold on hobby sites are no bargain.  - with bamboo trunnels drawn from the softer species especially - the business ends of the clamps can be covered using used IV tubing.  If the local hospital or clinic are no help try a vet.

A pin pusher is maybe theoretically a useful tool.  In practice, not so much for most of us.
 
For me, the tool that does exactly what you wish a pin pusher to do is:
 

Pin Insertion Plier
Item #: 85282
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
    Pin Insertion Plier
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Pin Insertion Plier
Our Price $24.95
 
MM describes this as an exclusive product.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

It was sort of an exercise in what if were I in your situation.
I admit that I have not needed to Foredom but for the one rabbet experiment.  Flying by the seat of my pants, I opted for the LX model - favoring torque over speed.  I haver never used any Dremel at anything like max speed., so I did not see needing the Foredom that featured that.
 
As for the vac,  I see a table saw and a scroll saw - a 1.25" hose to a vac lets you use them where the light is good and keep the dust down -  if you progress to scratch,  there could be other dustmakers.
 
As for the hole, I would rough saw a ~2.5" hole and fit one of these on the wall on either side - as well as feeding a piece of 12G Romex thru it.

You would want a 220V line but your saw room looks like it could hold a 14" bandsaw -  with this and a Byrnes thickness sander - you are an instant sawmill. 
A Byrnes table saw is wonderful, but a 10" table saw  is a waste of money - a bandsaw is way more useful - unless you are also building actual furniture.
 
These are just thought burrs to sit in your mind for the future.
 
It is too expensive, by I would want a Kalwall skylight to counter the gloom.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

Kris,
 
Good enough!  you seem to have a realistic and sober perspective on the limitations of your fix.  That is about all that can be expected.  No more worries.
 
I was startled when I saw the quality and style of the Resolution (1700) plan,  because it did not look like any 1700 plan I had seen before. I investigated and it is Resolution (1770) a 74.
A sort of typo that I am very prone to make.   Many of us only wish that there were a lot of plans from around 1700  and beyond any hope that they were that complete.   The mere thought of such is enough to cause ears and eye stalks to go to full alert!  A full on Pavlov response.  😉
 
And as per @Egilman - stacking the layers of frame plans,  shaping and faring a hull,  faring the lines in 3D  all will show what needs to be fixed from distorted plans.  At the time, I sort of doubt that any ship was identical to its design plan.   Wood is forgiving and requires adaptation.   Iron and steel not so much.
 
 

This is probably me being impertinent and irreverent.  Consider this as a passing non tenure track faculty member from a different department saying that you may wish to take a step back and look at the problem from a broader perspective..  No selling or any recruitment going on. no insults are intended.
 
Wow!  The plans in post## figure 1 are some seriously messed up plans.
 
My point:  I would be very suspect about how much more accurate any holistic repair of a plan this messed up would be.
There are articles in the old NRJ and Model Shipwright that discuss the distortions from time   on paper or vellum  and from less than perfect camera lenses.
It can be different in different regions of a large plan and a single formula for the whole could be just as unsatisfactory as the original.
As an alternative to a holistic repair:
The data on each station should be considered complete unto itself (until it proves that is not.)
Set up a baseline.
Set the station locations at their ideal intervals.  Isolate each station as an individual.  Rotate each as much as it needs to be vertical.
Take the data points from that to connect the dots. resolve any bad curve runs (fare it).   Fake it for ports, blocks, channels,  steps, etc.  that are between the stations.  i.e - measure the distance from the nearest station.  
I do not do virtual modeling in 3D.  I am dedicated to turning expensive hardwood into sawdust.  Hardcore POF is my area of focus.  I did hand lofting of all frames a few times and decided not to do that any more. Doing that using ink and a drawing board  is nothing if not extremely tedious.  Doing the shapes of 100 plus frames takes a LONG time.    Searching for an alternative,  I could find no 3D CAD that would not allow me to extract every frame should I be able to insert the lines plan.  I am led to believe that a 3d modeler  would allow this - which would then require a whole lot of work rendering a series of cross sections with tight limits.  One for every frame or every bend depending on the framing style.   (NURBS being much better at hard material curves than vertex - which is better for flesh type curves)  (Old memory: Converting a NURBS prop to vertex  version in a vertex based rendering program is like dropping a block of neutronium of a scale.  Way too many points.)
 
I have ultimately found a better way and I only need to use a GIMP clone (Painter 19).  Now,  I do not recommend Painter to anyone else -but I already had it,   having used upgrades of it (Painter 3D) from my Poser 3 days - it does raster, but the bulk of the program is about simulating Bob Ross on a computer screen -- although not much tends to be all that "happy".   A long way of saying that I am an austlander just paying a quick visit.  But we do face similar (the same) problems with less than ideal plans.

Kris,
 
Good enough!  you seem to have a realistic and sober perspective on the limitations of your fix.  That is about all that can be expected.  No more worries.
 
I was startled when I saw the quality and style of the Resolution (1700) plan,  because it did not look like any 1700 plan I had seen before. I investigated and it is Resolution (1770) a 74.
A sort of typo that I am very prone to make.   Many of us only wish that there were a lot of plans from around 1700  and beyond any hope that they were that complete.   The mere thought of such is enough to cause ears and eye stalks to go to full alert!  A full on Pavlov response.  😉
 
And as per @Egilman - stacking the layers of frame plans,  shaping and faring a hull,  faring the lines in 3D  all will show what needs to be fixed from distorted plans.  At the time, I sort of doubt that any ship was identical to its design plan.   Wood is forgiving and requires adaptation.   Iron and steel not so much.
 
 

Kris,
 
Good enough!  you seem to have a realistic and sober perspective on the limitations of your fix.  That is about all that can be expected.  No more worries.
 
I was startled when I saw the quality and style of the Resolution (1700) plan,  because it did not look like any 1700 plan I had seen before. I investigated and it is Resolution (1770) a 74.
A sort of typo that I am very prone to make.   Many of us only wish that there were a lot of plans from around 1700  and beyond any hope that they were that complete.   The mere thought of such is enough to cause ears and eye stalks to go to full alert!  A full on Pavlov response.  😉
 
And as per @Egilman - stacking the layers of frame plans,  shaping and faring a hull,  faring the lines in 3D  all will show what needs to be fixed from distorted plans.  At the time, I sort of doubt that any ship was identical to its design plan.   Wood is forgiving and requires adaptation.   Iron and steel not so much.
 
 

This is probably me being impertinent and irreverent.  Consider this as a passing non tenure track faculty member from a different department saying that you may wish to take a step back and look at the problem from a broader perspective..  No selling or any recruitment going on. no insults are intended.
 
Wow!  The plans in post## figure 1 are some seriously messed up plans.
 
My point:  I would be very suspect about how much more accurate any holistic repair of a plan this messed up would be.
There are articles in the old NRJ and Model Shipwright that discuss the distortions from time   on paper or vellum  and from less than perfect camera lenses.
It can be different in different regions of a large plan and a single formula for the whole could be just as unsatisfactory as the original.
As an alternative to a holistic repair:
The data on each station should be considered complete unto itself (until it proves that is not.)
Set up a baseline.
Set the station locations at their ideal intervals.  Isolate each station as an individual.  Rotate each as much as it needs to be vertical.
Take the data points from that to connect the dots. resolve any bad curve runs (fare it).   Fake it for ports, blocks, channels,  steps, etc.  that are between the stations.  i.e - measure the distance from the nearest station.  
I do not do virtual modeling in 3D.  I am dedicated to turning expensive hardwood into sawdust.  Hardcore POF is my area of focus.  I did hand lofting of all frames a few times and decided not to do that any more. Doing that using ink and a drawing board  is nothing if not extremely tedious.  Doing the shapes of 100 plus frames takes a LONG time.    Searching for an alternative,  I could find no 3D CAD that would not allow me to extract every frame should I be able to insert the lines plan.  I am led to believe that a 3d modeler  would allow this - which would then require a whole lot of work rendering a series of cross sections with tight limits.  One for every frame or every bend depending on the framing style.   (NURBS being much better at hard material curves than vertex - which is better for flesh type curves)  (Old memory: Converting a NURBS prop to vertex  version in a vertex based rendering program is like dropping a block of neutronium of a scale.  Way too many points.)
 
I have ultimately found a better way and I only need to use a GIMP clone (Painter 19).  Now,  I do not recommend Painter to anyone else -but I already had it,   having used upgrades of it (Painter 3D) from my Poser 3 days - it does raster, but the bulk of the program is about simulating Bob Ross on a computer screen -- although not much tends to be all that "happy".   A long way of saying that I am an austlander just paying a quick visit.  But we do face similar (the same) problems with less than ideal plans.

And lets not forget the lens distortion, screen aberrations and scanner head tolerances...
 
Realigning a print (squaring) I do in Gimp directly only takes a few minutes and the tools are easy.... removing the distortion is the difficult and tedious part... and in many cases, for modeling purposes, unnecessary....

Buried back in some old threads are discussions of linen yarn sources.  Most obvious are Etsy vendors from the Baltic region.   Most is natural so that it looks like greenish hemp.  A problem is that the smaller diameter yarns have inclusions from being poorly combed.  A Byrnes ropewalk includes enough stress that the yarn breaks more often than not.
 
For nomenclature:  plant fibers< yarn < thread     With linen it is yarn = rope     with cotton it is tread = rope   
There is some some really small stuff from Western Europe that is three yarns twisted, so it is ready made rope.   The links are in the archives.  But who knows what SARS-2 has wrought as far as all of them surviving?
Which enforces my bias of picking one running rigging color ( half bleached or white if that is all that is offered) - buy a lot - dye it to make standing rigging.  
To me, rigging that looks like a piano keyboard just looks wrong.

Yes, my mother was a "scrub nurse," what would now be called a "surgical assistant," I suppose. We had a fair amount of the same sort of things in everyday use around the house: bandage scissors, needle holders, hemostats, curved Kellys and the like. I still have a few pieces. Back in the old days, instruments were high quality and autoclaved and reused. Nowdays, a lot of them are disposable and correspondingly of lower quality because they are "single use" and don't have to last. A lot of the old-time basins and trays were monel metal, too. Now, if plastics will serve the purpose, that's what they use and then just throw them out. A doc I know explained that it was difficult to access used instruments these days because with the bodily fluid transmissible diseases like HIV and hepatitis everything is designated as "hazardous bio-waste" so it's disposed of following strict haz-mat protocols. 

Bob,
I have no recommended source.  My father worked for a commercial laundry that contracted with small local hospitals - back when they were closer to what was seen in The Godfather film.   Interesting things were sometimes folded up in OR drapes.  Some came home.  I was also married to an RN and some equipment did not make it back to CS.   It is all +/- 50 years old or so, but the quality holds.   Even some of the sprung ones work well enough.  Which is probably why they stayed with the laundry.  Surgeons of that time had some really spectacular Ego demonstrations.

1- I forgot to add that my pin pusher also works to remove a pin .
2 - It works bamboo dowels/trunnels up to at least #50.
3 - The tool that I used before the pusher became available also works -  a curved Kelly clamp. 
 
Curved Kelly clamp - I used the size most often carried by RN.  Save frustration and buy quality (European) to begin with - the ones sold on hobby sites are no bargain.  - with bamboo trunnels drawn from the softer species especially - the business ends of the clamps can be covered using used IV tubing.  If the local hospital or clinic are no help try a vet.

1- I forgot to add that my pin pusher also works to remove a pin .
2 - It works bamboo dowels/trunnels up to at least #50.
3 - The tool that I used before the pusher became available also works -  a curved Kelly clamp. 
 
Curved Kelly clamp - I used the size most often carried by RN.  Save frustration and buy quality (European) to begin with - the ones sold on hobby sites are no bargain.  - with bamboo trunnels drawn from the softer species especially - the business ends of the clamps can be covered using used IV tubing.  If the local hospital or clinic are no help try a vet.

A pin pusher is maybe theoretically a useful tool.  In practice, not so much for most of us.
 
For me, the tool that does exactly what you wish a pin pusher to do is:
 

Pin Insertion Plier
Item #: 85282
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
    Pin Insertion Plier
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Pin Insertion Plier
Our Price $24.95
 
MM describes this as an exclusive product.

A pin pusher is maybe theoretically a useful tool.  In practice, not so much for most of us.
 
For me, the tool that does exactly what you wish a pin pusher to do is:
 

Pin Insertion Plier
Item #: 85282
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
    Pin Insertion Plier
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Pin Insertion Plier
Our Price $24.95
 
MM describes this as an exclusive product.