Jaager

I did some more armchair experimenting:
Would it help to use cardboard that is close to plank thickness?
Would it help to use a penetrating treatment with a varnish on both sides to stiffen it?
Would a plastic sheet that is thick enough to be stiff, but thin enough to cut with a sharp violin type knife and straight edge work better?
Once the pattern is refined to make a good fit, it can be transferred to two layers of planking stock bonded with something like double sided tape.  This way P&S planking can be spilled together.  About half the work and a better likelihood of bilateral symmetry?
 

I wrongly assumed that the Balsa was for a filler for POB.  I never dreamed that you intend to use it for something important.
For a deck or anything that shows  the only species that rates as "quality" is Birch.   Lime is better than its American brother Basswood but it is only sort of OK,   average kit sort of stuff.
North American Black Walnut is "quality" but not for our uses - it is open pore and does not scale.  Anything else called Walnut is there because it has a color that is sort of close.  All are also open pore, often coarse grain and or brittle.  None of it is scale appropriate.  aircraft plywood is suited for use as a sub flooring if a deck is then planked wth a scale appropriate veneer that is too thin to be a single layer.
 
If you can only find one supplier that is domestic to you, I would guess that you are not in either North America or Europe. Without you should tell us where you are, none of us can help you find a helpful source, or suggest species in your region that would be appropriate.

Bill,
 
I strongly suggest that you avoid using the book illustration and order the plans from The Smithsonian.
The particulars for this specific vessel:
Page#               Plan#           Description                                        Cost
101                   HASS-18      US Revenue Cutter 1815  31 tons     10.00
 
The Processing                                                                                5.00
 
Processing  is for up to 12 sheets    I usually order  12 at one go   except that the last page is for 7 because I could not find another 5 that I wanted.
 
Smithsonian Ship Plans
P>O> Box 37012
NMAH/MRC
Washington, DC  20013
 
This vessel is a little boy.  Quicker and easier to build than some you might choose.
 
You have the spar dimensions.  Books and/or the NRJ  CD   will provide the diameter changes over distance from the mast.
 
The rigging would be standard for the time and the time is about as well documented as any.
There is even a post here that does a pretty good job of explaining schooner spars and rigging.

Drafting gun ports must be boring,  subject to lapses in precision, and more than a few plans have some of them as inconsistent in their pattern.
 
When lofting, I pick a port at midship and develop a gauge/jig for the the distance of the sill and lentil from the underside of deck planking/top of deck beams.  I add the thickness of the sill and lentil timbers to size the opening.  I use this gauge for the rest of the ports, rather than using the profile to determine gun port height,.  Transferring the data to a card and installing the beams before finishing the ports gets the slope of the sill parallel to the deck for each.
 
 

The more efficient and satisfying way is to avoid this inappropriate species to begin with and use a species that is better suited.
In North America -  the most economical is construction Pine, then comes Yellow Poplar,  if you gotta, Soft Maple, Aspen or other Cottonwood.
These are soft, but are less prone to crush and hold trunnels; and sand without tearing.
Other geographic regions will have local species that serve. .

The more efficient and satisfying way is to avoid this inappropriate species to begin with and use a species that is better suited.
In North America -  the most economical is construction Pine, then comes Yellow Poplar,  if you gotta, Soft Maple, Aspen or other Cottonwood.
These are soft, but are less prone to crush and hold trunnels; and sand without tearing.
Other geographic regions will have local species that serve. .

The answer to your specific question might be a product called “git rot,” sold here in the US by marine supply houses to salvage rotted wood (it would be easier to answer questions if you guys would give us a rough location of where you live.). This is a very thin epoxy resin intended to penetrate the wood.  In the last few years there has been an explosion of other specialized epoxy resins intended to solve various problems, and you might find something that meets your needs, sold by companies like WestSystem and System 3. Intended for use by wooden boat builders and repairers, they can be expensive for modeling applications.
 
I second, Jaager’s suggestion to solve your problem by substituting a different species of wood,  IMHO, in the rush to build a model from what is considered to be “museum quality lumber, ordinary construction grade pine, not spruce or fir, is overlooked by many modelers.  If you sort through wood at your local lumberyard or big box home improvement store you will find a nice piece of pine for a fraction of what it will cost you to salvage the balsa.  Since most of our applications require small pieces, we can generally work around knots and checks.  This means that less select grades can work fine for us.
 
Roger
 
 

The more efficient and satisfying way is to avoid this inappropriate species to begin with and use a species that is better suited.
In North America -  the most economical is construction Pine, then comes Yellow Poplar,  if you gotta, Soft Maple, Aspen or other Cottonwood.
These are soft, but are less prone to crush and hold trunnels; and sand without tearing.
Other geographic regions will have local species that serve. .

The more efficient and satisfying way is to avoid this inappropriate species to begin with and use a species that is better suited.
In North America -  the most economical is construction Pine, then comes Yellow Poplar,  if you gotta, Soft Maple, Aspen or other Cottonwood.
These are soft, but are less prone to crush and hold trunnels; and sand without tearing.
Other geographic regions will have local species that serve. .

You have something now, so if your carving never produces a satisfactory product, you can always use what you have.
As it is, you have a no lose opportunity to develop a new skill.  Buy several blocks of wood that are the appropriate species and carve.
It would be an inspiring way to begin scratch building - should that be your ultimate ambition.
 

John,
 
It looks like I completely missed what you were asking.  It did not occur to me that you wished to paint a metal casting to look like it was raw wood.   The only practical reason for a figurehead on a model to be raw wood at all, is if the builder had actually carved it from a block of wood - and wished to show that off.  As others have pointed out, in your situation pigmented covering layers should be used.    The other factors - water based paint vs oil based paint  - bright and garish vs subtle, subdued, and scale sensitive - is a matter of personal taste and you are the final arbiter of that.
 
To be glib,  I think the only way to get a convincing raw wood figurehead is to start with a block of wood and carve it yourself, using the casting as a guide.  For this sort of part,  there is a wide number of choices for wood, since among other sources pen turning stock can be used.   That stuff has a high cost per BF,  but fraction of a BF is small.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

No data here.
 
My guess would be that the decoration would adapt to the structure.
To be cynical,  the second option where the hull is damaged to accommodate the decoration - the carver probably valued the wreath more than the hull and did not wish to risk having to remake the carving.

It was sort of an exercise in what if were I in your situation.
I admit that I have not needed to Foredom but for the one rabbet experiment.  Flying by the seat of my pants, I opted for the LX model - favoring torque over speed.  I haver never used any Dremel at anything like max speed., so I did not see needing the Foredom that featured that.
 
As for the vac,  I see a table saw and a scroll saw - a 1.25" hose to a vac lets you use them where the light is good and keep the dust down -  if you progress to scratch,  there could be other dustmakers.
 
As for the hole, I would rough saw a ~2.5" hole and fit one of these on the wall on either side - as well as feeding a piece of 12G Romex thru it.

You would want a 220V line but your saw room looks like it could hold a 14" bandsaw -  with this and a Byrnes thickness sander - you are an instant sawmill. 
A Byrnes table saw is wonderful, but a 10" table saw  is a waste of money - a bandsaw is way more useful - unless you are also building actual furniture.
 
These are just thought burrs to sit in your mind for the future.
 
It is too expensive, by I would want a Kalwall skylight to counter the gloom.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

Bob,
I have no recommended source.  My father worked for a commercial laundry that contracted with small local hospitals - back when they were closer to what was seen in The Godfather film.   Interesting things were sometimes folded up in OR drapes.  Some came home.  I was also married to an RN and some equipment did not make it back to CS.   It is all +/- 50 years old or so, but the quality holds.   Even some of the sprung ones work well enough.  Which is probably why they stayed with the laundry.  Surgeons of that time had some really spectacular Ego demonstrations.

1- I forgot to add that my pin pusher also works to remove a pin .
2 - It works bamboo dowels/trunnels up to at least #50.
3 - The tool that I used before the pusher became available also works -  a curved Kelly clamp. 
 
Curved Kelly clamp - I used the size most often carried by RN.  Save frustration and buy quality (European) to begin with - the ones sold on hobby sites are no bargain.  - with bamboo trunnels drawn from the softer species especially - the business ends of the clamps can be covered using used IV tubing.  If the local hospital or clinic are no help try a vet.

A pin pusher is maybe theoretically a useful tool.  In practice, not so much for most of us.
 
For me, the tool that does exactly what you wish a pin pusher to do is:
 

Pin Insertion Plier
Item #: 85282
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
    Pin Insertion Plier
    Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Micro-Mark Pin Insertion Plier
Pin Insertion Plier
Our Price $24.95
 
MM describes this as an exclusive product.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

It was sort of an exercise in what if were I in your situation.
I admit that I have not needed to Foredom but for the one rabbet experiment.  Flying by the seat of my pants, I opted for the LX model - favoring torque over speed.  I haver never used any Dremel at anything like max speed., so I did not see needing the Foredom that featured that.
 
As for the vac,  I see a table saw and a scroll saw - a 1.25" hose to a vac lets you use them where the light is good and keep the dust down -  if you progress to scratch,  there could be other dustmakers.
 
As for the hole, I would rough saw a ~2.5" hole and fit one of these on the wall on either side - as well as feeding a piece of 12G Romex thru it.

You would want a 220V line but your saw room looks like it could hold a 14" bandsaw -  with this and a Byrnes thickness sander - you are an instant sawmill. 
A Byrnes table saw is wonderful, but a 10" table saw  is a waste of money - a bandsaw is way more useful - unless you are also building actual furniture.
 
These are just thought burrs to sit in your mind for the future.
 
It is too expensive, by I would want a Kalwall skylight to counter the gloom.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.

Richard,
 
One of the "gifts" of aging is heed for more and more light when doing closeup work.
LED clamp desk lamps are very handy for providing light. 
Your benches being 3.5"  at the front rule these lamps out. But clamping along the front edge is less than ideal anyway.
MM used to sell a lamp that had a metal block with a 1/2"(?) hole that screwed into the back wall .  The lamps swinging in from behind the work is handy and less cluttering.  I cannot find these type mounts on line.
But looking at your setup:  a length of 2x4  fixed to the back wall -  1.5" up/down  and  3.5"  as a sort of shelf.  Right angle steel brackets/braces -lag screwed into the wall studs -  to hold.  Mount it just under the wall pug covers.   1/2" holes in the 3.5" shelf would seat the posts for the lamps that the clamps are used for.    A spread of holes will allow for a variety of locations.
 
If you do not have 110V outlets under your bench a hole at the back for a power cord will allow for the use of a foot operated momentary on/off switch when you get tools like a bench drill press or Foredom flex shaft or similar tool where always on is less than ideal.  
I also mounted a fold down steel shelf bracket on the back wall to hang the flex shaft motor -  I bought the bench mount style and paid the few bucks for the hanging bale.
 
You could also hang 4' shop lights using adjustable chains from eye bolts in the ceiling studs.
 
With two rooms, you can keep a shop vac in the saw room, make a 2.5" dia hole for the hose,  use a RIF remote router/vac on/off with a clicker.  The vac and its noise can be in the room where you ain't.  A Dust Deputy type cyclone trap is a  good friend to have.