Jaager

I was thinking about your wale bending task.  Bending thru the thick dimension is fighting what the wood wants to do.  But would it be easier to bend a 1/4" x 1/16"?
I was shocked by kits doing wales by superimposing a half thickness wale over the complete first layer planking with a double layer hull POB. If the wale is two layers, the evidence would be hidden by the planking strakes above and below. It is heretical, but you could pretend that the hull is being girdled. 

I was thinking about your wale bending task.  Bending thru the thick dimension is fighting what the wood wants to do.  But would it be easier to bend a 1/4" x 1/16"?
I was shocked by kits doing wales by superimposing a half thickness wale over the complete first layer planking with a double layer hull POB. If the wale is two layers, the evidence would be hidden by the planking strakes above and below. It is heretical, but you could pretend that the hull is being girdled. 

I did some more armchair experimenting:
Would it help to use cardboard that is close to plank thickness?
Would it help to use a penetrating treatment with a varnish on both sides to stiffen it?
Would a plastic sheet that is thick enough to be stiff, but thin enough to cut with a sharp violin type knife and straight edge work better?
Once the pattern is refined to make a good fit, it can be transferred to two layers of planking stock bonded with something like double sided tape.  This way P&S planking can be spilled together.  About half the work and a better likelihood of bilateral symmetry?
 

Mark,
When you measure out a plank, do you first transfer that to a mock up from something like poster board to check the fit, before actually cutting wood?

I did some more armchair experimenting:
Would it help to use cardboard that is close to plank thickness?
Would it help to use a penetrating treatment with a varnish on both sides to stiffen it?
Would a plastic sheet that is thick enough to be stiff, but thin enough to cut with a sharp violin type knife and straight edge work better?
Once the pattern is refined to make a good fit, it can be transferred to two layers of planking stock bonded with something like double sided tape.  This way P&S planking can be spilled together.  About half the work and a better likelihood of bilateral symmetry?
 

Mark,
When you measure out a plank, do you first transfer that to a mock up from something like poster board to check the fit, before actually cutting wood?

Mark,
When you measure out a plank, do you first transfer that to a mock up from something like poster board to check the fit, before actually cutting wood?

One factor that may serve to make veneer a bit difficult is in how much if it is derived.  The log is rotated against a blade.  The veneer comes off like unrolling paper towels.
 
It is totally unnatural as far as grain behavior.  It saves on loss to kerf though.

You might give some consideration to giving the "bolt heads" a pass.
They were more like nails and are not seen from a distance that is not that far away.  They are not proud, rather flush or a slight dent.
Most of the hulls with bumps remind me of an old picture of a severe case of smallpox in someone with an incompetent immune system.
Individual plates from a copper sheet?   On a piece of safety glass - score with a very sharp #11 blade moving along a steel straight edge.
Snap along the score.
Attaching the copper can be a problem. 
Old Model Shipways technique called for using a candle to darken the copper and then using Weldwood contact cement.  They did not say to scrub the glue side after flaming it.  What happened is a layer of oxide on the surface that cases the cement bond to fail.  
Treating the copper sheet to a color change before scoring may either leave the other side unaffected or allow for easier process of cleaning it.
I am a long way from actually doing this experiment, but I have it in mind to use archival paper with a smooth surface.  Paint one side with Modern Masters ME205-06 Metallic Antique Copper, before I cut plates, wondering about a  Guillotine Trimmer for the cutting,  attach with bookbinders PVA,  and use  Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina in various places.

One factor that may serve to make veneer a bit difficult is in how much if it is derived.  The log is rotated against a blade.  The veneer comes off like unrolling paper towels.
 
It is totally unnatural as far as grain behavior.  It saves on loss to kerf though.

One factor that may serve to make veneer a bit difficult is in how much if it is derived.  The log is rotated against a blade.  The veneer comes off like unrolling paper towels.
 
It is totally unnatural as far as grain behavior.  It saves on loss to kerf though.

One factor that may serve to make veneer a bit difficult is in how much if it is derived.  The log is rotated against a blade.  The veneer comes off like unrolling paper towels.
 
It is totally unnatural as far as grain behavior.  It saves on loss to kerf though.

One factor that may serve to make veneer a bit difficult is in how much if it is derived.  The log is rotated against a blade.  The veneer comes off like unrolling paper towels.
 
It is totally unnatural as far as grain behavior.  It saves on loss to kerf though.

Lets see if this works:

I have a reprint from ~ 1968.  Given the poor resolution, I suspect that the original  first edition was significantly larger and perhaps the illustrations at the front were originally even larger loose sheets.
The scan is from a Brother 3-in-1 printer scanner. I think 400x400.  The 1200x1200 pixel version was not any better.  I have an old flip phone, no text even.  I have no use for a smart phone.  For me, it would only be an expensive target for telemarketers and other thieves phishing. 

Lets see if this works:

I have a reprint from ~ 1968.  Given the poor resolution, I suspect that the original  first edition was significantly larger and perhaps the illustrations at the front were originally even larger loose sheets.
The scan is from a Brother 3-in-1 printer scanner. I think 400x400.  The 1200x1200 pixel version was not any better.  I have an old flip phone, no text even.  I have no use for a smart phone.  For me, it would only be an expensive target for telemarketers and other thieves phishing. 

I have a reprint from ~ 1968.  Given the poor resolution, I suspect that the original  first edition was significantly larger and perhaps the illustrations at the front were originally even larger loose sheets.
The scan is from a Brother 3-in-1 printer scanner. I think 400x400.  The 1200x1200 pixel version was not any better.  I have an old flip phone, no text even.  I have no use for a smart phone.  For me, it would only be an expensive target for telemarketers and other thieves phishing. 

Until you suggested it, not so's you'd notice.  Thank you for the additional possibilities.   In sniffing out your trail, I found that Amazon has 2" disc sanders -at least.  I am not sure that the chucks are all that I would need,  I will have to think on this.  I did put a couple of manicure motors on my Amazon wish list a while ago, but I have Dremels, so no need for them.
 
For drilling inside a hull, I have more than enough small DC motor with chucks that will fix +/- #70  drill bits. 
Most of my plans have lines for top of the beams/bottom of the deck at the side.  I include that data on my frame patterns.  All of this has lead me to possible way to site the clamps. Cut a series of strips of wood that are the thickness of the deck beams. Pin them at the sirmarks for the bottom of the deck and push the clamp up against the bottom and bond it.

Until you suggested it, not so's you'd notice.  Thank you for the additional possibilities.   In sniffing out your trail, I found that Amazon has 2" disc sanders -at least.  I am not sure that the chucks are all that I would need,  I will have to think on this.  I did put a couple of manicure motors on my Amazon wish list a while ago, but I have Dremels, so no need for them.
 
For drilling inside a hull, I have more than enough small DC motor with chucks that will fix +/- #70  drill bits. 
Most of my plans have lines for top of the beams/bottom of the deck at the side.  I include that data on my frame patterns.  All of this has lead me to possible way to site the clamps. Cut a series of strips of wood that are the thickness of the deck beams. Pin them at the sirmarks for the bottom of the deck and push the clamp up against the bottom and bond it.

Cutting too deeply into a plywood spine may not be all that good of a practice.  The bonding surface for the keel needs to have an adequate surface area.  If a supply of veneer of an appropriate species of wood can be obtained, a layer of veneer can be scabbed onto the outer surface of the keel on either side.  On models where the rabbet was done poorly, this could serve as a rescue.  Going out for a rabbet rather than chiseling in would appear as the same result.

Until you suggested it, not so's you'd notice.  Thank you for the additional possibilities.   In sniffing out your trail, I found that Amazon has 2" disc sanders -at least.  I am not sure that the chucks are all that I would need,  I will have to think on this.  I did put a couple of manicure motors on my Amazon wish list a while ago, but I have Dremels, so no need for them.
 
For drilling inside a hull, I have more than enough small DC motor with chucks that will fix +/- #70  drill bits. 
Most of my plans have lines for top of the beams/bottom of the deck at the side.  I include that data on my frame patterns.  All of this has lead me to possible way to site the clamps. Cut a series of strips of wood that are the thickness of the deck beams. Pin them at the sirmarks for the bottom of the deck and push the clamp up against the bottom and bond it.

Until you suggested it, not so's you'd notice.  Thank you for the additional possibilities.   In sniffing out your trail, I found that Amazon has 2" disc sanders -at least.  I am not sure that the chucks are all that I would need,  I will have to think on this.  I did put a couple of manicure motors on my Amazon wish list a while ago, but I have Dremels, so no need for them.
 
For drilling inside a hull, I have more than enough small DC motor with chucks that will fix +/- #70  drill bits. 
Most of my plans have lines for top of the beams/bottom of the deck at the side.  I include that data on my frame patterns.  All of this has lead me to possible way to site the clamps. Cut a series of strips of wood that are the thickness of the deck beams. Pin them at the sirmarks for the bottom of the deck and push the clamp up against the bottom and bond it.

Assuming there are suitable collects or chucks on the handpieces, and I'd expect there must be...
 
Have you checked out the units designed for dental lab and nail salon applications? There are some remarkably inexpensive units on the market these days. Not that I'd want my dentist cutting corners on the quality of his instruments, but for hobby work, they'd probably be fine.   The same goes for old fashioned dental engines.  I'd think there'd be a fair number of really good ones on the used market as air-driven and micro-motor-driven units replace them.
 
On FleaBay, for about  a hundred bucks  - the blue things are teeth polishing cups:
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dental-Lab-Marathon-Polisher-Electric-Micromotor-Contra-angle-10-Prophy-Cups/143944111592?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3Decf7e111aad647b1985bed3d18e771b3%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D142686199499%26itm%3D143944111592%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851
 
Refurbished-with-warranty lab dental engine with handpiece: $145 on FeaBay: 
 

 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/231467107100?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=231467107100&targetid=1068323857870&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032112&poi=&campaignid=11612431353&mkgroupid=114626995633&rlsatarget=pla-1068323857870&abcId=9300456&merchantid=113796506&gclid=Cj0KCQiA1pyCBhCtARIsAHaY_5eye0YMcPhG8phlwV1UQO8AaFuou0qcn_IVcFcnFaS94NenfJQmR9YaAi3KEALw_wcB
 
 

17th century? ears perk up:
 
Deane's Doctrine of Naval Architecture 1670  Conway  1981
Seventeenth Century Rigging  by R.C.Anderson  MAP 1955
The Seaman's Speculum or Compleat Schoolmaster  1711 by John Davis  NRG 1985
The Ship-Builders Assistant 1711  by William Sutherland  ANCRE 1989
The Boatswain's Art or Complete Boatswain  1670  by Henry Bond  The Shellback's Library(?)
 much after:
The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor  1819  Darcy Lever  Sweetman n.d.
Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging 1794  by David Steel  Sweetman