Jaager

JP.
 
It may not necessarily be a ship.  It may be a bark or a large schooner.
 
Framing that is all single frames, may be a clue - if the framing matched the original.
The midship looks to be farther aft than is typical.
The mainmast looks atypical in how far aft it is.
The older style stern may help narrow the possibles.
 
A bow on photo, camera back a bit, bottom of the keel on a single plane,  would help with this, but
 
This vessel seems narrow with a lot more deadrise than a commercial carrier would afford.
Flying Cloud also had a midship that was closer to 50%.  It also looked like it ate few too many sandwiches.
 
If it is a clipper,  Crothers  may help,  but if your photo has not distorted or obscured too much,  this is more of an anti-packet, so I would not expect a match there for any ID.  
I jumped a step, Crothers wrote more than one book  -  All are must haves if this sort of ship is in your area of interest.  His book on clippers - the framing reminds me of some of his illustrations.   His book on packets -  those had a cross section that reminds me end on view of a single stack saltine box with rounded corners at the bottom.
 

Sorry - the middle sentence is not logical.  I omitted a word.  It should read:
At least the boards that I have NOT had forever are stickered.  

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

this is the only answer 🤪

I can't speak to the MicroMark, but the Byrnes sure does. It's a wheel on a threaded rod. Turn the wheel and adjust the thickness by as little as a gnat's ***... "bottom." (Darn Net Nanny censored me. They're doing violence to the King's English, I tell ya! Here, of all places, a man ought to be able to talk like a sailor.) 
 
 

I should add my high tech solution for insuring that the drum is parallel with the hinged plate.  I have a piece of sandpaper glued to a flat piece of plywood.  With the sandpaper on the drum removed the sandpaper faced plywood is clamped to the angle plate.  With the machine turned on the angled plate is raised until the sandpaper contacts the drum and removes ant irregularities.
 
I should also add that the 1 /2 hp motor surplus from upgrading my bandsaw gives me plenty of power
 
 
Roger

Hank,
 
One more addition to consider:
 
From a local glass supplier   two   12" x 18"  pieces of  1/4" tempered plate glass  with all edges and corners bevel ground.  If one is good, two is better.
A perfect working surface for everything except tasks that involve banging.  Glue spills or smears - single edge razor blades - precisely flat surface.
I bought mine back before Earth was discovered to be round, so I have no idea if the price is now out of reach.

Hank,
 
Given where this is going to live,  an unfinished chair.   Again, I am not familiar present conditions, but before it was a fad, excellent quality could be had for not that much  money.
But that was back when good furniture was made just west of you in the Hickory area.  If you run out of steam for the environment project, a bare wood chair works as well as  one
that is stained and clear coated.

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Hank,
 
Given where this is going to live,  an unfinished chair.   Again, I am not familiar present conditions, but before it was a fad, excellent quality could be had for not that much  money.
But that was back when good furniture was made just west of you in the Hickory area.  If you run out of steam for the environment project, a bare wood chair works as well as  one
that is stained and clear coated.

Hank,
 
One more addition to consider:
 
From a local glass supplier   two   12" x 18"  pieces of  1/4" tempered plate glass  with all edges and corners bevel ground.  If one is good, two is better.
A perfect working surface for everything except tasks that involve banging.  Glue spills or smears - single edge razor blades - precisely flat surface.
I bought mine back before Earth was discovered to be round, so I have no idea if the price is now out of reach.

A dining room style backed chair with a cushioned seat is worth a thought- for where is done, the constantly in one place, watch repair type work.
A backless stool (or two)  with big and at least 5 rollers  and easy height adjust.  Even with 5 rollers,  take care where you place your butt.  
That is unless you wish to practice  for a role in a "Help!  I've fallen and can't get up." commercial.  Those suckers will flip you in an instant.  
This is not theory. 
 
Home Depot  sells craft size pieces of 1" Styrofoam ( starfone in KY ) insulation.   Cut two brick or a bit larger blocks - that are the same size.  PVA glue them together and to a piece of 1/2" ply that has an apron on the four sides.     Poke deep holes in the top to fit hand tools. 
Things like pin vise drills , Kelly clamps,  scissors,  Sharpies,  knives, pencils, small hammers,...   keeps them to hand, but off the bench top.
 
Hot melt works more quickly - is a knee jerk thought, when quick is the only consideration - you really do not want to use hot melt on Styrofoam.

Kris,
 
About your thickness adjuster -  The ideal situation is one degree of freedom.  You may be challenging precision too much with 4 degrees of freedom.  Theory, and shoulda,  and oughta are sometimes at loggerheads with how it really is.  Keeping the table the same distance from the roller along the entire width/length  can be a challenge with any design.  I advise verifying at the extremes and in the middle.  
 

Hank,
 
Given where this is going to live,  an unfinished chair.   Again, I am not familiar present conditions, but before it was a fad, excellent quality could be had for not that much  money.
But that was back when good furniture was made just west of you in the Hickory area.  If you run out of steam for the environment project, a bare wood chair works as well as  one
that is stained and clear coated.

Sorry - the middle sentence is not logical.  I omitted a word.  It should read:
At least the boards that I have NOT had forever are stickered.  

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Hank,
 
One more addition to consider:
 
From a local glass supplier   two   12" x 18"  pieces of  1/4" tempered plate glass  with all edges and corners bevel ground.  If one is good, two is better.
A perfect working surface for everything except tasks that involve banging.  Glue spills or smears - single edge razor blades - precisely flat surface.
I bought mine back before Earth was discovered to be round, so I have no idea if the price is now out of reach.

Right now I am using it to store framing timber stock.  My lumber is well seasoned.  I resaw and then use a thickness sander to get it to final thickness. 
I sticker my lumber supply.  At least the boards that I have had forever are stickered.  Freshly milled lumber, even if kiln dried,  may not be as dry as it could be.
My harvested stock is billets.  It is shorter than 2 feet.  I keep it on shelves, not stickered.  Each layer is oriented 90 degrees to the one above and below.
But, once dry I don't see any need for air circulation, especially after it has been resawn. 
The box has one end secured using duct tape.  I pack as much wood into a box as it will hold.  I write a code for species and thickness on all 4 sides at the
end that opens..  Then lay it flat. 
Oh,  to save work later, I write the decimal thickness (without the dot) on each plank.  It is on both sides at each end.  I use chalk.  I have white and color chalk. White does not
show very well on Maple.  It rubs off easily later.
I try not to use AC, although this year the mid July to early August heat wave was too much for my condo's version of 4/40 air.  It is two floors with a sliding glass door on each.
On the Bay, it is humid.  I use no humidifier in the Winter.  I do not measure it, but I suspect that compared to yours, my range in humidity must resemble a windshield wiper.  
Still, I do not worry about it as far as the condition of the stored wood.  The tight packing stops any cupping.  I work slowly enough that there is equilibrium. 
 
In your place, i would wonder if the Castelo  was still a bit wet when it was purchased. 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

Mark,

There have been past discussions.   And I learned about my primary method there.  
One of the frustrations of web style is that it makes source attributions difficult.  Actual names are not often used. Jobs, promotions, grant money, and invitations to speak are not at stake, the harm is slight.  Footnotes are difficult to use.

Pulling bits and pieces together,  It may serve to have some understanding of the physical forces involved and match a storage method to its likely interaction with them.

Seasoned wood is essentially wood that is equilibrium with its environment of water.  The volume and volume to surface area affects the time it takes.    In an environment with controlled temperature and humidity, once at physical equilibrium, shape of wood should stay stable.   You do not address your home's humidity.  The literature of your island suggests that the humidity there fluxes, and is frequently at atmospheric saturation or even above.   There is a constant dynamic at play with stored wood.

Looking at the end grain of a plank  will predict some of the forces affecting the shape a plank will try to take.
Quarter sawn stock has the grain at right angles.  This the more stable conformation.  It is also more expensive. There is higher waste, and more labor involved.
Flat sawn wood is a quick and dirty and the most common method used.  The grain of a tree is a series of ever increasing diameter concentric rings.  The end grain is most often at an angle.  The worst of the effects involving a plank changing shape from the desired rectangle,  is when the center is involved in where a particular plank comes from.  If the end grain is not a series of parallels, if they mirror each other,  there is a tendency to draw the edge towards each other.   Trees taper in overall diameter and they often rotate in a cork screw fashion.   The forces involved with changes  of shape are more when the water content is high. -  Twist and cup are particularly troublesome during the seasoning process.  Kiln drying often can get the water out before the wood can reach the shape that internal forces demand.    Hydraulic pressure can be strong.  The changing water content in a dry plank bring it into play.  It will overcome less than adequate counter forces. Kiln drying or drying under a weighted stack may leave internal stresses that take every opportunity to release. This is a part of the playing field.

Storage of drying wood requires adequate air flow around each plank to get the water vapor away and not support the ever present fungus.   Wood in equilibrium does not need air flow for drying.   I am imagining that a thick stack of closely packed wood, that has been stored where there is no humidity control, will need a little time to equilibrate with the build environment.

POF requires a large supply of wood.   Using a suggestion here  I use cardboard mailing boxes.  2' lengths are convenient for me.

Aviditi Square Mailing Tubes, 3" x 3" x 25", 25 Each per Bundle (M3325),Oyster White
Also  2" x 2" x25"
The contents can be packed.  Laid flat, they stay where placed.  2'  long is a pain to find floor space for.
Mailing tubes, paper towel roll cores,  and egg crate dividers in a big box,  make for easy storage of a size sorted stock.   They work best when stood on end.
Gravity will pull on the top of the planks and bending is a frequent result.  None work well when flat.  The box dumps its contents.  The tubes roll and their cross section is a circle.  Planks are rectangles.  The fit is less than optimal.
I know of no pat solution.  Mostly it is a matter of applying finds to your situation.   Give a thought to what Nature is trying to do to the wood and see if your proposed method offers an adequate counter.
 
About your present stock,  forcing it back to flat is good for stock being feed to a tablesaw.  The product of the saw will possible not warp significantly - depending on size.  The reshaped plank will continue to seek its preferred shape over time.  If you use it on a model, the bond and fittings holding it in place must be stronger than the natural internal forces if things are to stay where you wish them to be.
 

A dining room style backed chair with a cushioned seat is worth a thought- for where is done, the constantly in one place, watch repair type work.
A backless stool (or two)  with big and at least 5 rollers  and easy height adjust.  Even with 5 rollers,  take care where you place your butt.  
That is unless you wish to practice  for a role in a "Help!  I've fallen and can't get up." commercial.  Those suckers will flip you in an instant.  
This is not theory. 
 
Home Depot  sells craft size pieces of 1" Styrofoam ( starfone in KY ) insulation.   Cut two brick or a bit larger blocks - that are the same size.  PVA glue them together and to a piece of 1/2" ply that has an apron on the four sides.     Poke deep holes in the top to fit hand tools. 
Things like pin vise drills , Kelly clamps,  scissors,  Sharpies,  knives, pencils, small hammers,...   keeps them to hand, but off the bench top.
 
Hot melt works more quickly - is a knee jerk thought, when quick is the only consideration - you really do not want to use hot melt on Styrofoam.

Kris,
 
About your thickness adjuster -  The ideal situation is one degree of freedom.  You may be challenging precision too much with 4 degrees of freedom.  Theory, and shoulda,  and oughta are sometimes at loggerheads with how it really is.  Keeping the table the same distance from the roller along the entire width/length  can be a challenge with any design.  I advise verifying at the extremes and in the middle.