Jaager

I use the sander to mill to final dimension,  the stock that the saws will process.
 
For POF -  lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - scroll cutting saw - disc sander - drum sander - hand tools -  for frames
                 lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - 4" tablesaw - disc sander - hand tools  - for planking  and furniture.
 
Given your - Current:   I do not see where a thickness sander would serve you.   For planking and furniture - the volume used places a Byrnes tablesaw within the place of being practical for generating dimension stock from a 3/4" plank.   A 2-4 foot long board wider than 6 inches would be no fun.   At a large scale 1:48  - a stock plank that is 1 foot long is 48 feet in scale.

I did not catch that you already have a thickness sander in reading your question.  I was not questioning or criticizing your present setup.
 
The Byrnes thickness sander is a solid, precise, stable machine.  The medium is easy to renew.  My only criticism is for the strength of the spring holding the depth wheel.  I jury rigged a fix.  For its function, there is no peer,  or even close.
The Byrnes tablesaw.  Nothing else comes close.  It will probably require tech with a near zero kerf ray with no charring to replace it.  Or a neutronium wire.
The Byrnes disc sander  -  powerful,  the dust extraction is excellent,  I sand to a pattern line, but I have every confidence that miter gauge is accurate.  No plastic is sanded here, so speed control is not needed.
 
The ideal choice is all three.  If you must choose one,  odds on,  the tablesaw is number one,  once you have a hull to plank.   It does not come into play for framing, though.
Framing - the disc sander is minor, but vital.
Processing commercial lumber - the thickness sander   -   but a big powerful bandsaw stands ahead of it.
 

To anticipate the next question
accessories:
Unless you have a specific need for beveled planks,  the tilting table  will probably have the least use vs expenditure value.
You can make do with either a metric or standard stop.   Wonderful would be a digital readout  like my caliper - fraction/digital/metric - fine marks and age rigid lenses make for a hard of seeing situation.
The sliding table is elegant.  A homemade version that performs the function is not difficult to make, but this one is well made and the specs are in excess of our needs.  For short piece cutting, a homemade version with a short table on one side would save having to remove the fence.
Jim has custom fabricated an oversized table for some members here.  He needs the body to fit it,  so if you work really oversized stock,  this may be an option to discuss when an order is placed.
Most of the rest are not expensive and are generally of the better to have and not need category.
One blade company that we use has gone away recently, so for blades, more variety is better and a backup for the ones that are really used a lot.  This works if CYA is your way. 
The key concept for blades is that the number of teeth on the blade appropriate to use is inversely proportional to the thickness of the stock being cut.

To anticipate the next question
accessories:
Unless you have a specific need for beveled planks,  the tilting table  will probably have the least use vs expenditure value.
You can make do with either a metric or standard stop.   Wonderful would be a digital readout  like my caliper - fraction/digital/metric - fine marks and age rigid lenses make for a hard of seeing situation.
The sliding table is elegant.  A homemade version that performs the function is not difficult to make, but this one is well made and the specs are in excess of our needs.  For short piece cutting, a homemade version with a short table on one side would save having to remove the fence.
Jim has custom fabricated an oversized table for some members here.  He needs the body to fit it,  so if you work really oversized stock,  this may be an option to discuss when an order is placed.
Most of the rest are not expensive and are generally of the better to have and not need category.
One blade company that we use has gone away recently, so for blades, more variety is better and a backup for the ones that are really used a lot.  This works if CYA is your way. 
The key concept for blades is that the number of teeth on the blade appropriate to use is inversely proportional to the thickness of the stock being cut.

Thanks everybody for the feedback. Unfortunately the combination of old script and old language make it very difficult. Lacking anyone who can read the old script we're reduced to guesswork. So farit seems to say something like
 
"They stood (have stood) [stundge . . ssen?] for (i.e. towards) Modon someone said eight hundred [mo. . g?] of the Turkish [ship?]" - so to m this means they wanted to go to Modon and were charged 800 of some monetary unit .
 
I'd like to investigate this further, but at least I'm pretty sure that the answer to my original question as to whether this is a Turkish ship is yes.
 
Jaager, you're right - those are rubbing strakes - they were quite common on carracks before 1500. The "circular attachments" look ball-shaped to me - I'm pretty sure they're not shields, but I have no idea what purpose they would serve, except perhaps for signalling or something of the sort - like the black ball that is dropped down the mast at noon on land to tell ships what the time is.
 
Normally that netting is to deter boarders, but I can't see it being used that way at the top of a mast . . . They usually put netting over the decks in case of attack, but that's not shown here (maybe not installed in normal times?)
 
The "stitched supplement" is a bonnet - removing it was how you decreased the area of your sail before reef-points came into use. I think this is an artist error - if you look carefully you can see at the far left (i.e. port) side of the sail there's just a bit of the seam between the mainsail and the bonnet. I think the artist just forgot to put the rest of it in.
 
I agree about the seagoing abilities of the Turks at the time. They had been a steppe race and the sea was a bit of a mystery to them, at least at first. I seem to recall that during the siege of Constantinople (I think one earlier than their final conquest of 1453) their fleet was cobbled together from whatever they could lay their hands on, and reinforcements from one of the Italian republics were able to get past because of the inability of the Turkish ships to stop the big, modern ships coming to Constantinople's aid. However, they seem to have learnt fast -or employed people wit the knowledge and technology. I know of at least two other pictures from about the end of the 15th century showing big carracks in Turkish use - the Piri Reis map of 1513, and the picture of the Battle of Zonchio of 1499. By 1565 they were certainly in use by the Turks - the Knights of Malta captured one belonging to a high court official - possibly one of the reasons for the Turkish invasion of Malta that year.
 
A lot of other interesting details in this picture - you can see the wedges of the mainmast, either sheaves or scuppers in the hull, at least two of them are sheaves - one for the maintack and one for the main sheet - lots of interesting rigging details including topping lifts, showing the shape of the blocks in use, the shrouds seem to be tied directly to a side rail, there'saladder to the quarterdeck which doesn't seem to quite make it all the way up, and what are those sort of grating things next to it, with "blobs" on top of the uprights? Perhaps something similar to the openwork sides of the poop superstructure?
 
Fascinating stuff . . .

I did not catch that you already have a thickness sander in reading your question.  I was not questioning or criticizing your present setup.
 
The Byrnes thickness sander is a solid, precise, stable machine.  The medium is easy to renew.  My only criticism is for the strength of the spring holding the depth wheel.  I jury rigged a fix.  For its function, there is no peer,  or even close.
The Byrnes tablesaw.  Nothing else comes close.  It will probably require tech with a near zero kerf ray with no charring to replace it.  Or a neutronium wire.
The Byrnes disc sander  -  powerful,  the dust extraction is excellent,  I sand to a pattern line, but I have every confidence that miter gauge is accurate.  No plastic is sanded here, so speed control is not needed.
 
The ideal choice is all three.  If you must choose one,  odds on,  the tablesaw is number one,  once you have a hull to plank.   It does not come into play for framing, though.
Framing - the disc sander is minor, but vital.
Processing commercial lumber - the thickness sander   -   but a big powerful bandsaw stands ahead of it.
 

I use the sander to mill to final dimension,  the stock that the saws will process.
 
For POF -  lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - scroll cutting saw - disc sander - drum sander - hand tools -  for frames
                 lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - 4" tablesaw - disc sander - hand tools  - for planking  and furniture.
 
Given your - Current:   I do not see where a thickness sander would serve you.   For planking and furniture - the volume used places a Byrnes tablesaw within the place of being practical for generating dimension stock from a 3/4" plank.   A 2-4 foot long board wider than 6 inches would be no fun.   At a large scale 1:48  - a stock plank that is 1 foot long is 48 feet in scale.

At first, I thought you really meant "keel".   I am seeing that you are likely asking about a center spine and the moulds for a POB build. 
Consider 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood  -  if you are US based, HomeDepot has convenient to handle sizes - on the final model,  none of it is displayed.
Go for quality.  A-A  is ideal - B-BB will probably serve. 
The synthetic stuff - among other factors, may provide a poor bond with hull planking and any space filling material you might use.

I haven't gotten to 1487 in The Great Sea yet,  but the Turks were mostly lubbers and the Greeks mostly handled the sea going - if not Genoa, or Venice or other webfoot traders - leading up to this time for the city on the Dardanelles.  For the ship type, I would be reluctant to make any regional specifics limited  to too small a region in the Med.  The relevance of the script may not be all that much.
 
There are some interesting details. 
3 masts,  main mast made,  sliding slot for lateen mizzen,  two part yards, 
near horizontal after castle,  too many mushrooms when drawing the fore castle slope. 
serious number of wales, 
I have wondered about  the vertical strakes at the waist -  vertical wales? , but with the number of horizontal wales and the problem that they could cause, I guess that they are rubbing strakes.  These guys stopped as often as a city bus,  for water, food, and trade so hauling up a boat or big barrels must have been a near daily operation.  
The "circular attachments" on main mast castle and fore mast castle - shields? 
The web above each of the mast castles -  was there a problem with resting sea birds and their poop?  If things got to a point where that was needed as a defense netting, conditions on deck would likely have been dire already.  To keep the soldiers in?   I remember a dice shaker -  a flat base, a clear hemisphere, middle long spring with a suction attachment - pull it to one side and let go - the dice rattle all around the interior.  In a blow, anyone up there would be a die.
Why does only the right side of the mainsail have a stitched supplement?

Since Degame is impossible to source,  3/4" plank of planed unfigured Hard Maple and a froe - stock for spars.
I have a plank of Hard Pine -  it was old when I got it from Grampa in 1972.  Straight grain - the Spring wood is blond, the Summer wood is red and rock hard. 
For a mast,  the spacing looks like it is a made mast.

I did not catch that you already have a thickness sander in reading your question.  I was not questioning or criticizing your present setup.
 
The Byrnes thickness sander is a solid, precise, stable machine.  The medium is easy to renew.  My only criticism is for the strength of the spring holding the depth wheel.  I jury rigged a fix.  For its function, there is no peer,  or even close.
The Byrnes tablesaw.  Nothing else comes close.  It will probably require tech with a near zero kerf ray with no charring to replace it.  Or a neutronium wire.
The Byrnes disc sander  -  powerful,  the dust extraction is excellent,  I sand to a pattern line, but I have every confidence that miter gauge is accurate.  No plastic is sanded here, so speed control is not needed.
 
The ideal choice is all three.  If you must choose one,  odds on,  the tablesaw is number one,  once you have a hull to plank.   It does not come into play for framing, though.
Framing - the disc sander is minor, but vital.
Processing commercial lumber - the thickness sander   -   but a big powerful bandsaw stands ahead of it.
 

I haven't gotten to 1487 in The Great Sea yet,  but the Turks were mostly lubbers and the Greeks mostly handled the sea going - if not Genoa, or Venice or other webfoot traders - leading up to this time for the city on the Dardanelles.  For the ship type, I would be reluctant to make any regional specifics limited  to too small a region in the Med.  The relevance of the script may not be all that much.
 
There are some interesting details. 
3 masts,  main mast made,  sliding slot for lateen mizzen,  two part yards, 
near horizontal after castle,  too many mushrooms when drawing the fore castle slope. 
serious number of wales, 
I have wondered about  the vertical strakes at the waist -  vertical wales? , but with the number of horizontal wales and the problem that they could cause, I guess that they are rubbing strakes.  These guys stopped as often as a city bus,  for water, food, and trade so hauling up a boat or big barrels must have been a near daily operation.  
The "circular attachments" on main mast castle and fore mast castle - shields? 
The web above each of the mast castles -  was there a problem with resting sea birds and their poop?  If things got to a point where that was needed as a defense netting, conditions on deck would likely have been dire already.  To keep the soldiers in?   I remember a dice shaker -  a flat base, a clear hemisphere, middle long spring with a suction attachment - pull it to one side and let go - the dice rattle all around the interior.  In a blow, anyone up there would be a die.
Why does only the right side of the mainsail have a stitched supplement?

I haven't gotten to 1487 in The Great Sea yet,  but the Turks were mostly lubbers and the Greeks mostly handled the sea going - if not Genoa, or Venice or other webfoot traders - leading up to this time for the city on the Dardanelles.  For the ship type, I would be reluctant to make any regional specifics limited  to too small a region in the Med.  The relevance of the script may not be all that much.
 
There are some interesting details. 
3 masts,  main mast made,  sliding slot for lateen mizzen,  two part yards, 
near horizontal after castle,  too many mushrooms when drawing the fore castle slope. 
serious number of wales, 
I have wondered about  the vertical strakes at the waist -  vertical wales? , but with the number of horizontal wales and the problem that they could cause, I guess that they are rubbing strakes.  These guys stopped as often as a city bus,  for water, food, and trade so hauling up a boat or big barrels must have been a near daily operation.  
The "circular attachments" on main mast castle and fore mast castle - shields? 
The web above each of the mast castles -  was there a problem with resting sea birds and their poop?  If things got to a point where that was needed as a defense netting, conditions on deck would likely have been dire already.  To keep the soldiers in?   I remember a dice shaker -  a flat base, a clear hemisphere, middle long spring with a suction attachment - pull it to one side and let go - the dice rattle all around the interior.  In a blow, anyone up there would be a die.
Why does only the right side of the mainsail have a stitched supplement?

I use the sander to mill to final dimension,  the stock that the saws will process.
 
For POF -  lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - scroll cutting saw - disc sander - drum sander - hand tools -  for frames
                 lumber - big bandsaw -  thickness sander - 4" tablesaw - disc sander - hand tools  - for planking  and furniture.
 
Given your - Current:   I do not see where a thickness sander would serve you.   For planking and furniture - the volume used places a Byrnes tablesaw within the place of being practical for generating dimension stock from a 3/4" plank.   A 2-4 foot long board wider than 6 inches would be no fun.   At a large scale 1:48  - a stock plank that is 1 foot long is 48 feet in scale.

Since Degame is impossible to source,  3/4" plank of planed unfigured Hard Maple and a froe - stock for spars.
I have a plank of Hard Pine -  it was old when I got it from Grampa in 1972.  Straight grain - the Spring wood is blond, the Summer wood is red and rock hard. 
For a mast,  the spacing looks like it is a made mast.

As for the kickback problem when the product slice is between the blade and the fence,  I am of a thought that a GRR-RIPER type hold down with a push barrier at the back end would block any kickback.  The pusher part would get a bit mauled, but if attached to the hold down, it would not go anywhere.  It may take practice to figure out how to push work thru correctly when it is blocked from view by the safety tools.

As for the kickback problem when the product slice is between the blade and the fence,  I am of a thought that a GRR-RIPER type hold down with a push barrier at the back end would block any kickback.  The pusher part would get a bit mauled, but if attached to the hold down, it would not go anywhere.  It may take practice to figure out how to push work thru correctly when it is blocked from view by the safety tools.

Karl,
Closer inspection will show that  your #1 and #2 are a single timber.  The bevel tricked you, too.
There was a discussion,  in NRJ  about chatter grooves    19:81-85  with illustration       chatter strip   16:236

This is resawing and it is best done using a large band saw.  A 4" wide piece of stock = this may well be necessary for the floor timbers of a 1st rate 17th century warship if you are framing in Navy Board style.  That style is really profligate, when it comes to efficiency in the use of wood. 
Set your fence so that it is a bit less than the maximum depth of cut for your saw.  Rip a piece from the 4" board that is that wide.  You do not want to do your bending tests on 3/4" wide stock, never mind doing it using 4" wide stock. 
If you are working at 1:48 scale,  real planks were almost never wider than 10", so even doing your tests on 1/4" wide stock will be out of scale for ultimate use. 
 
Since this discourse is about you being able to mill your own stock,  you have additional degrees of freedom in your choice of species to use.
Give some thought to avoiding GIGO.   The original kit species of "Walnut" is likely garbage.  At model scale, Oak is garbage.  Black Walnut is certainly not garbage, but it is an inauthentic color.  Below the waterline, Black Cherry planking will darken to be close the old penny copper in color.  No verdigris staining, but sort of close to a real copper bottom.

This is resawing and it is best done using a large band saw.  A 4" wide piece of stock = this may well be necessary for the floor timbers of a 1st rate 17th century warship if you are framing in Navy Board style.  That style is really profligate, when it comes to efficiency in the use of wood. 
Set your fence so that it is a bit less than the maximum depth of cut for your saw.  Rip a piece from the 4" board that is that wide.  You do not want to do your bending tests on 3/4" wide stock, never mind doing it using 4" wide stock. 
If you are working at 1:48 scale,  real planks were almost never wider than 10", so even doing your tests on 1/4" wide stock will be out of scale for ultimate use. 
 
Since this discourse is about you being able to mill your own stock,  you have additional degrees of freedom in your choice of species to use.
Give some thought to avoiding GIGO.   The original kit species of "Walnut" is likely garbage.  At model scale, Oak is garbage.  Black Walnut is certainly not garbage, but it is an inauthentic color.  Below the waterline, Black Cherry planking will darken to be close the old penny copper in color.  No verdigris staining, but sort of close to a real copper bottom.

This is resawing and it is best done using a large band saw.  A 4" wide piece of stock = this may well be necessary for the floor timbers of a 1st rate 17th century warship if you are framing in Navy Board style.  That style is really profligate, when it comes to efficiency in the use of wood. 
Set your fence so that it is a bit less than the maximum depth of cut for your saw.  Rip a piece from the 4" board that is that wide.  You do not want to do your bending tests on 3/4" wide stock, never mind doing it using 4" wide stock. 
If you are working at 1:48 scale,  real planks were almost never wider than 10", so even doing your tests on 1/4" wide stock will be out of scale for ultimate use. 
 
Since this discourse is about you being able to mill your own stock,  you have additional degrees of freedom in your choice of species to use.
Give some thought to avoiding GIGO.   The original kit species of "Walnut" is likely garbage.  At model scale, Oak is garbage.  Black Walnut is certainly not garbage, but it is an inauthentic color.  Below the waterline, Black Cherry planking will darken to be close the old penny copper in color.  No verdigris staining, but sort of close to a real copper bottom.

Karl,
Closer inspection will show that  your #1 and #2 are a single timber.  The bevel tricked you, too.
There was a discussion,  in NRJ  about chatter grooves    19:81-85  with illustration       chatter strip   16:236

I have not come across any mention of out gassing and Yellow Poplar before.  That does not mean that it is not true.  One other factor: clear finished Yellow Poplar can scream: please paint me. 
 
Did you by chance use PVA to assemble the box?  It is essentially a strong concentration of acetic acid in the bottle.  I failed an Organic Chemistry lab quiz, because I did a shortcut jump on a: Is it an ester or an ether? problem.  There was no ppt, so I made the wrong choice.  I forgot that acetic acid is a liquid and does not form a ppt.  Anyway, the acid will slowly evaporate and I suspect that polyvinyl polymerization continues for a long time after the desired bond is formed.  The reaction probably releases acetic acid, that could occur for years at a very low level.

Roger,
The grain look (as well as the course grain and open pores - which tends to overpower any detail and be distracting in a model,)  is pretty much the same for all Oak species.  You are right about Red Oak with one additional characteristic - the pore structure has open communication internally.  Water or air can be blow thru it from one side to the other.  If a barrel is made from Red Oak and it is filled with a liquid - water or alcohol, instead of nails - it will actually only be borrowing the liquid.  On a cross sea voyage, the barrels could be partially or totally empty at the destination - if alcohol, at least.   It would be interesting trying to keep a dry bilge in a ship planked with Red Oak.   Must have been interesting to have been the ones who discovered that while at sea.
 
About the Mamoli Beagle -  everything that I seen regarding this kit suggests that economy was a primary consideration.  Never mind that the hull appears to be the same as that of Bounty and/or Endeavor and is not that of a Cherokee class - 10 gun - "coffin" brig.  It was manufactured in Italy?  In North America, Walnut available is Black Walnut (Juglans nigra).  It is far and away superior to any other species of Walnut.  It is also way too expensive for an economy kit.  The native European Walnut is (I think) English Walnut.  It produces the eatable nuts, so is not primarily a lumber source and is also too expensive for an economy kit.  Any Walnut in the kit is likely to be African Walnut.  This is not a Juglans species at all.  It is closer to being a Mahogany. The name Walnut for it is a marketing ploy and not Botany.  I am guessing it tends to be brittle and prone to splitting when bent.  Black Walnut will make a hull planked with it a dark color, but it is not likely to come near matching existing African Walnut planking.  Although most of Black Walnut's properties are ones we seek, one unfortunate property is its open pores.  
 
Commercial hardwood lumber in eastern North America - that is suitable for our purposes, domestic and commonly available:
Hard Maple
Beech
Birch
Black Cherry
Yellow Poplar
 
Ripping a 0.5mm slice using a 10" tablesaw =  if the fence is perfect, the board is dead flat, and the blade is running true and does not eat into the slice,  a Freud 10" thin kerf ripping blade has a 0.094" kerf - that is 2.4mm, so for every pass, 80% of the wood goes to saw dust.  
 

That is plane sawn and planed Black Cherry.  When ripped into stock at model scale, the grain is not all that noticeable to my eye.  It will darken significantly and the grain difference will be even less.  The inclusions are a pain and reduce the yield of usable wood.
Black Cherry is one of my primary woods.  It is easy to work and has no bad habits.
It is however a necessary make do substitute.
Pear is harder, and has a more uniform nature.  Rating Pear at 100,  I give Black Cherry an 85.  (I give Apple a 200, but I find it unobtainable.) Here is the States, the rarity and cost makes it way too expensive to use for framing.  Cutting curved timbers involves significant waste and Pear is not practical.
 
Tasmanian Myrtle
Unless there is something about it that I am missing,  I would say that you will be golden if you use it.
It is about 1/3 harder than Black Cherry and that is a plus for me.
It looks relatively uniform. 
You complained earlier about a pink tint.  Do not sweat about that.  Pink in any wood seems to be a passing stage.  It will likely darken.  (Recently, a member in China was going off on Pink Ivory, because the pink went away and that is its name.)  How dark it will eventually get,  you will discover in time. 
One option is to use a reddish dye.   Being specific and technical, I mean a dye, and not a stain.  A stain is a semi-transparent paint. It does not belong on quality wood.  
Dyes come in two types, 
as a solution in an alcohol - it does not raise the grain, but it does not penetrate very deeply.
as a solution in water - first exposure raises the grain, but it penetrates more deeply.  The grain swelling problem is solved by treated the finished wood with plain water ( with 5% or 10% PVA in it )  sand or scrape the swollen fibers after things dry and then use the dye.  
 
In your place, I would:
Give the Black Cherry a pass. 
Work the Myrtle now to determine if it is everything it seems to be.
If it passes the test, load up on it.  Figure out how much you will need and at least quadruple that amount.  Experience has taught me that wood like this will increase in price and become more difficult to obtain and decrease in quality.
 
Your next mission: 
Find a domestic lumber that is blond, tight grain, closed pore, hard, with unobtrusive  and low contrast grain.
Blue Gum looks possible  - but for this     Grain/Texture: Grain is interlocked, with a uniform medium to coarse texture. Low natural luster. 
medium or coarse does not sound good.