Jaager

I see from picture #2 in post #25 - the idiosyncratic, bizarre, and distracting deck plank pattern - so often seen in OcCre product build logs:
alternating butts on the same beam, stark contrast - highway width caulking,  teacup diameter trunnels only at a butt joint -  is not a misunderstanding on the part of beginning modelers?
It is something that OcCre itself propagates!

Rio Grande Tools sell it:
Wolf Wax Adjustable Wax Trimmer

A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything.  Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
 
As a finish coat - it does not have build up.   The more coats, the more glossy.  If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
 
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer. 
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail,  but it looks neat.
 

 

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail,  but it looks neat.
 

 

A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything.  Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
 
As a finish coat - it does not have build up.   The more coats, the more glossy.  If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
 
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer. 
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail,  but it looks neat.
 

 

On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".

A different path - shellac.
Half strength is an excellent primer - easy to wipe on - quick to dry - an excellent undercoat for just about anything.  Scotch Brite (fine), tack, and then paint.
 
As a finish coat - it does not have build up.   The more coats, the more glossy.  If a touch of linseed oil is added, it is what was French polish. Substituting Tung oil (pure - not something hinky like Homer's) worked for me.
 
My suggestion is that you can get where you wish - with significant control and a reverse gear - if you use your present flat black and follow on with shellac - you can sneak up on your desired degree of gloss - by using multiple layers of shellac - Scotch Brite when each layer is dry - tack and wipe on another layer. 
Alcohol removes it if you dislike or go too glossy.

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail,  but it looks neat.
 

 

Following up on email spam from Foredom - I found this tool - diverted into a wax shaping niche - it looks like it might work for various edge shaping jobs on wood.
It has a grip zone that may work with a panavise-type mount.
It could solve a bevel cut need - with a fence and a rotating table.
Probably a hammer looking for a nail,  but it looks neat.
 

 

It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has.
This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end.
There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though.
 
This is the one that I am discussing :
 

I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel.
 
A very common blade is the #11 shape.  Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice.
When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating
Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force.  If your cuts are straight line they might work.
 
An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife.  #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle.  Expensive but it is lifetime for one.  There are maybe 6 widths. 
 
With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes.  I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds.  It may require diamond.

On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

On Amazon, a productive search term is "brass Welding Wire Rods".

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

I see that you are a Tarheel, so  Sycamore and Walnut will have different meanings from what is European in origin.
 
I doubt that any kit will include Black Walnut or any member of the Juglans family.  What is provided in kits is called "walnut" because of its color. Most is one of several African species in the Mahogany family or a near relative.  Actual Walnut is a much superior wood, but for our uses, it has open pores - not good.
 
What Europeans call Sycamore is an Acer.  It is a Maple.  The Plane tree - what we call Sycamore - a large fast growing but messy tree - has fine grain, no open pores, usefully hard hard wood. However, the grain is busy, it is currently sold as Lacewood,  it has an unpleasant smell when cut and the fibers roll.
 
Lime is Tilia.  It is a soft wood with almost no visible grain.  A color similar to Pine.  It has been used in Europe - northern Europe - for a long time for carving.  The North American member of the family Tilia,  used here as a substitute is Basswood.  Lime is twice as hard as Basswood and not as fuzzy.  Bass does not hold a sharp edge.
 
The light color wood would be either Lime or Sycamore (Eu). If it is soft and shows no grain = Lime. If it hard and with an visible alternating grain = Sycamore.  The color defines its location.
 
Sapele is another African Mahogany.  It is for show.
 
The black is something that has been dyed.  I would guess it is for the wales.
The grey is something that has been dyed.  Probably the same species as the black.  I would guess for decking.
For a new deck, Lime or Acer would match the original Pine or Oak decks,  but the Sun and hard use will turn a "not for show" deck grey.
 
If you catch the ship modeling bug and if it sets in so hard that you come over to the dark side,  Except for the Acer, you can use the wood supplied in the kit as examples of species that you would never use.  For the Acer,  we have the premier member - Hard Maple earning an "A".    The European species gets a "B". 

Is this thread limited to this particular unbranded machine?

Exactly this and for me, a momentary foot switch.  I drill a lot of holes in the same board, so I have one hand for the leaver, one hand to position the work, and I do not want the spinning to start until the bit tip is in the divot.