Olaf Posted February 18 Share #1 Posted February 18 (edited) Hi everyone. Can someone can help me choose good craft knife please? There are so many of them on the market but I would like have a good one for PE. Edited February 19 by Olaf Vlax 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted February 18 Share #2 Posted February 18 I find the ubiquitous X-acto knife with assorted blades works well. Assorted blades for different materials and functions. Canute, KeithAug, Nirvana and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted February 19 Share #3 Posted February 19 I used to use Xacto exclusively but after more than one episode of it rolling off the bench and onto the floor, or worse, onto a thigh, when it comes to blade holders I went to flat handles. Saws and other attachments are not a problem for me with the Xacto, but definitely not scalpel blades. My go to is Swann Morton handles and blades but there are others that are similar. Allan mtaylor, Olaf, Chuck Seiler and 1 other 4 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution Jaager Posted February 19 Solution Share #4 Posted February 19 (edited) I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel. A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice. When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work. An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths. With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond. Edited February 19 by Jaager mtaylor, allanyed, Olaf and 1 other 4 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf Posted February 19 Author Share #5 Posted February 19 3 hours ago, Jaager said: I like the shape of the Fiskars Softgrip Ergonomic Detail Knife for hand feel. A very common blade is the #11 shape. Getting a 100 pack of a high quality #11 blade, not the OEM version is my choice. When researching this, I just discovered that XActo - which as not been my choice for blades - has a XZ series that has a zirconium nitride coating Feedback suggests that the hard coating makes the tip prone to snapping off - especially with lateral force. If your cuts are straight line they might work. An alternate direction is a double bevel 1/4" violin makers knife. #11 shape - just a bar of steel with no handle. Expensive but it is lifetime for one. There are maybe 6 widths. With both disposable and permanent blades, very frequent shroping on leather charged with a green, red, or gold polishing compound crayon keeps a fine edge and reduces changes. I do not know if zirconium is harder than the compounds. It may require diamond. Can I replace blades on this particular model @Jaager? Doesn’t say anything. https://ritohobby.co.uk/knives-and-cutters/12571-fiskars-softgrip-art-knife-078484167113.html?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC-ulnr6gOu3q3a8I5LVpN9nXtfzu&gclid=CjwKCAiA8sauBhB3EiwAruTRJpC3GRaEjNnSyjDYx3hNb-MV678eP35JtV3RlzYvRXQjFVkE78BTsxoCn3oQAvD_BwE mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted February 19 Share #6 Posted February 19 (edited) It will hold any blade that has the same insert as the #11 blade has. This handle tightens using a knurled knob at the back end. There is a larger and similar handle for the large blades - the router blades and similar - not what you need for the job mentioned though. This is the one that I am discussing : Edited February 19 by Jaager Olaf, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris watton Posted February 19 Share #7 Posted February 19 For PE, a Stanley Knife should do the trick. I have never used anything else. Ryland Craze, mtaylor, No Idea and 1 other 4 Quote Vanguard Models on Facebook Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf Posted February 20 Author Share #8 Posted February 20 (edited) One more question guys. I saw somewhere that curved blades are better than straight ones for photo etched parts? Someone is using them and can compare them please? Edited February 20 by Olaf Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Idea Posted February 20 Share #9 Posted February 20 On 2/19/2024 at 1:37 PM, chris watton said: For PE, a Stanley Knife should do the trick. I have never used anything else. Yep I'm the same - I have two types of knife which are the Stanley for tough work and Swann Morton scalpel blades for everything else. There's no sharpening involved so I can just get on with the job at hand. DaveBaxt, Canute, mtaylor and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GGibson Posted February 21 Share #10 Posted February 21 On 2/20/2024 at 4:32 AM, Olaf said: One more question guys. I saw somewhere that curved blades are better than straight ones for photo etched parts? Someone is using them and can compare them please? I am actually preferring the curved #10 Xacto blade for my work, including the removal of PE pieces. I can "rock" the blade easier, rather than slicing with the #11 blade. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Gregg Current Projects: Completed Projects: Waiting for Shipyard Clearance: Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (Couldn't help myself when it was on sale) H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlubber Mike Posted February 21 Share #11 Posted February 21 5 minutes ago, GGibson said: I am actually preferring the curved #10 Xacto blade for my work, including the removal of PE pieces. I can "rock" the blade easier, rather than slicing with the #11 blade. I use the #10 curved blade also. Just press down and rock/roll over the attachment. Plus, the #10 blade has better strength and stability relative to #11 blades. I use #11 Swann Morten blades for pretty much all my other work. GGibson, Knocklouder, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olaf Posted February 21 Author Share #12 Posted February 21 5 hours ago, GGibson said: I am actually preferring the curved #10 Xacto blade for my work, including the removal of PE pieces. I can "rock" the blade easier, rather than slicing with the #11 blade. Hi GGibson.Can you give some examples of this blades and what knife I can use for this blades please? I just getting nystagmus on websites🙃 Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GGibson Posted February 22 Share #13 Posted February 22 (edited) 4 hours ago, Olaf said: Hi GGibson.Can you give some examples of this blades and what knife I can use for this blades please? I just getting nystagmus on websites🙃 Hi Olaf! If I am understanding your question, the #10 Xacto blade I was referring to that I like is the 2nd one down from the top left in the picture on my post, that fits into a "standard" Xacto knife handle. The lower right one is similar, but fits in a larger handle, as you can see the notch part (the little rectangle opening on the left side of the blades) is a bit bigger in that one. EDIT: Here's a "knife/blade matrix" I found that will help determine what blade goes with what handle... x-acto-matrix.pdf (scene7.com) Edited February 22 by GGibson Olaf, Ryland Craze, Canute and 4 others 4 3 Quote Gregg Current Projects: Completed Projects: Waiting for Shipyard Clearance: Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre (Couldn't help myself when it was on sale) H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft USS Constitution 1:76 - Model Shipways Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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