Jaager

I trust that you mean this is jest.  Being 3 litres negative water balance in Piedmont Carolina in Summer-like temp sort of makes it difficult to maintain the necessary internal balance and not start to denature some temperature sensitive enzymes and receptors.  I think beyond a certain age, our internal thirst safety drive can get to be below the strength of signal necessary to gain our attention.

I see this as a minor controversy that seems to have lasted about 250 years.  Unless some misplaced plans from 1637 finally show up, there is no definitive resolution.  It is all a best guess.  It is unfortunate that it has taken on more significance than it deserves.  It serves to divide into two camps,  whose further differences are not evident.   This is a large ship.  There is much about it to cover in a book.  For Frank Fox to disavow McKay's entire book over a couple of choices that are open to interpretation, seems excessive.  Better to praise what works and footnote the disagreement.  Then publish the alternative in NRJ with the alternate version of the plans.
I do not see this as being subject to vote,  unless the voter is actually building a model of the ship.  And, then, which ever choice is made should have no affect on how that model is judged, if it is an entry in a contest.  A museum suit is entitled to use this as a decision point for an acquisition.  Given the current fashion / fad exercised by museums, who knows how long it will be before even the possibility is a factor?   
 
Now, valid vote or not,  I see round.  The continuation of the caulking seams in the whole white area, is my key.  A flat tuck would have different planking.  That said, them's some pretty wide boards between those seams.  Did the painter actually see the ship?  Did he use a poorly planked model of it as his source?

These are a few ideas about what I would try, if I was doing this now.
 
Raw logs can be heavy and difficult to manage and secure.  They are easier if they can be processed in the field.
I know that it is possible to a freehand rip cut to bisect a log with a chainsaw.  A problem is holding a log that wants to roll and getting bottom clearance so that the chain is not also digging into the dirt.
Theoretical solution = a Bora Centipede ( smaller version) with 2x4 rails,  right angle steel brackets  and long screws.  The wide footprint and portability looks promising.
A log can be then be held horizontal and at tabletop height.
A chainsaw will produce a fearsome waste to kerf, but if it this that or nothing, it is worth it and if correctly, the pith is removed - saving later problems with seasoning.
 
A good two stroke chainsaw is an excellent tool,  but also expensive,  a pain to start and maintain,  their power can make kickback dangerous and more likely.
There are low cost electric chainsaws.  Not as powerful, but good enough and they start when you want them to.
Given the cost of wood, the HF chainsaws are low cost enough to have a backup and treat as disposable. 
A pickup truck,  a small size portable generator  and you are in business.
 
Were I younger, I would go hunting - Apple, Plum,  Hornbeam,  Hophornbeam,  Honey Locust,  Dogwood, Holly,  even Buxus from old estates.
 

Would shellac not also do the job? Not about resisting scratches, but an easy sealing layer.
Or conservators wax?

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

Would shellac not also do the job? Not about resisting scratches, but an easy sealing layer.
Or conservators wax?

Not much response, so far,  so I will stand on a soap box, and speechify at bit:
 
For Blender,  first you discover what the program can do.  Then you dig until you find out how to do it - which tools to use.  Then you practice until you can do it.  I think this works better by doing the reverse of the education model ( i.e. learning all of the tools before begin a project.)  The education model also has you learning functions that you will never need or use.   Learning each tool as the specific task that needs doing comes at you, has more immediate feedback.  By being out of school, passing the tests and the course, is no longer a motivating force.  The motivation comes down to getting satisfaction from learning and doing, what needs to be done.  It comes down to picking the needed tutorials up from wherever they are found, rather than a coherent and well written book.  3D computer graphics programs are messy to learn.
 
If you mean shipbuilding -  this pretty much requires focusing of a specific ship or specific and narrow slice of time.   There are monographs for individual vessels.  There are reprints of books on shipbuilding that are of their time and place.  They were written for a contemporary audience, to make money.  They did not need to say that the work did not apply all that much to their grandfather's or even their father's ships. The purpose was progress and or advocacy of an individual bias, not history. The amount of information lost with the death of those who did it, because they either did not care to, or lacked the skills to,  document it, is agonizing. 
 
The number of "books" that were even written and level of detail they contain builds over time from zero to covering only the major points.  https://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/index_03treatises.htm
There are journal articles with shipbuilding information. 
There are the concentrated and rewritten explanations of what the original books described. Most only cover a limited slice of time (Dodds and Moore). 
To cover 1500 to 1860 in a single volume, the result would be very superficial, or if at real depth, require a forklift to move and a lifetime to write.   
If you wish to build a comprehensive library covering the subject broadly, it will be expensive and large. The difficulty in obtaining out of print volumes that were published recently will prove frustrating.  On the plus side, more and more of the originals are becoming available in electron form, because they are free of copyright limits. 
The nature of this story is one of evolving tech,  with many dead ends along the way.  The mistakes could be and often were seriously consequential.  This journey offers the chance for a glimpse of the challenges and methods of those for whom this was life or death. 
 
A more focused request may produce more helpful information.

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

It is an excellent job that you have done in laying your deck.
The darker raised strakes have an open grain that is similar to that of some Rock Elm that I have come across.  It may want filling of the pores.  I am not sure of the best way to do it though.
The blond species  looks great.  Adding trunnels is a modeler's convention that I enjoy.  On a real ship they would not be all that obvious.  They were often covered with plugs of the same wood as the decking, with  matching grain.
The end grain of any species will usually be darker.  If your trunnels were cored from the same blonde species,  they would show.  Using Pear, the contrast that comes from its end grain may be a more stark contrast than you really want.  Just a thought before you step off that cliff.

Not much response, so far,  so I will stand on a soap box, and speechify at bit:
 
For Blender,  first you discover what the program can do.  Then you dig until you find out how to do it - which tools to use.  Then you practice until you can do it.  I think this works better by doing the reverse of the education model ( i.e. learning all of the tools before begin a project.)  The education model also has you learning functions that you will never need or use.   Learning each tool as the specific task that needs doing comes at you, has more immediate feedback.  By being out of school, passing the tests and the course, is no longer a motivating force.  The motivation comes down to getting satisfaction from learning and doing, what needs to be done.  It comes down to picking the needed tutorials up from wherever they are found, rather than a coherent and well written book.  3D computer graphics programs are messy to learn.
 
If you mean shipbuilding -  this pretty much requires focusing of a specific ship or specific and narrow slice of time.   There are monographs for individual vessels.  There are reprints of books on shipbuilding that are of their time and place.  They were written for a contemporary audience, to make money.  They did not need to say that the work did not apply all that much to their grandfather's or even their father's ships. The purpose was progress and or advocacy of an individual bias, not history. The amount of information lost with the death of those who did it, because they either did not care to, or lacked the skills to,  document it, is agonizing. 
 
The number of "books" that were even written and level of detail they contain builds over time from zero to covering only the major points.  https://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/index_03treatises.htm
There are journal articles with shipbuilding information. 
There are the concentrated and rewritten explanations of what the original books described. Most only cover a limited slice of time (Dodds and Moore). 
To cover 1500 to 1860 in a single volume, the result would be very superficial, or if at real depth, require a forklift to move and a lifetime to write.   
If you wish to build a comprehensive library covering the subject broadly, it will be expensive and large. The difficulty in obtaining out of print volumes that were published recently will prove frustrating.  On the plus side, more and more of the originals are becoming available in electron form, because they are free of copyright limits. 
The nature of this story is one of evolving tech,  with many dead ends along the way.  The mistakes could be and often were seriously consequential.  This journey offers the chance for a glimpse of the challenges and methods of those for whom this was life or death. 
 
A more focused request may produce more helpful information.

In thinking about the theory of the thing, it could have a real resistance to solar gain if there was a double roof.  Leave the old trusses and plywood (or MDF) sheathing.  Remove the old shingles - because of their weight.  Add riser blocks to determine the gap and add a new roof with new rafters, sheathing and shingles over it.  Active exhaust of the air in the gap would divert the heat.  Of course the additional weight may crush the walls and the whole thing be a quantum singularity for your budget. 
 
If there was sufficient insulation, a free standing ceramic space heater may be enough for most Winter conditions.  Not shirt sleeve, but not ice sickle.  I was going to try one in my garage, but I finished what I needed to do down there on La Renommee before it got cold.  Then my Black Dog got aholdt of my initiative, so I did not need to buy one. 

Hank,
I forgot that you inland Tarheels have it a bit warmer and do not have a giant moving heat sink to soak up some of the heat.  At least those not on the Outer Banks do not.  But they will need webbed feet soon, what with sea level rise.
OK, lets do an unrealistic blue sky mitigation. 
Quick and dirty,  a window unit A/C,  Duke Power will love your additional contribution.  Especially if that box is not insulated.
Thick batts of fiberglass insulation between the roof beams, with paper but but not vapor barrier facing.  Trapping the humidity would rot the roof, but the paper would stop a constant rain of itching and pulmonary silicosis producing particles.
A gabble peak exhaust fan.  Looking at your last photo, the loft is almost belly crawl high.  An intake vent at that peak  - some rain exclusion flaps outside and a way to fit a 2-4" thick Styrofoam  air tight cover over the hole in the Winter.  The other peak has your porch outside it.  Good and bad.  Good in that the fan can be at the peak face of the porch and the fan noise will be less.   Bad in that the peak of the porch will have to be a tunnel.  - a ceiling there.  Greenhouse fans come with louver flaps.   A simple screen covered opening for the main front peak.  A Winter cover there too.  I would hate the winterizing and summerizing maintenance.  
The whole roof can be covered with 4'x8' sheets of 1" foil faced insulation sheets. Just tied down.  Foil face out, so that you can blind aviation with the reflection.
Or  build a "U" shaped structure over the whole building and cover it with a flexible PE reflecting tarp.  This could be large enough to exclude direct morning and especially evening solar gain.
 
Back when Carter was pres,  I built (had built) a house with a two story solar room in central KY.  Summers are just as hot and humid as piedmont Tarheelia  with more tornadoes. Great for tomatoes though.  Being a second generation tech pioneer - lots and lots of things I would have done differently, if...  One of gotcha for that region,  it does not sun all that much in the Winter.  What was great for New Mexico and Arizona, was not exactly the same.
 

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

If only the rest of the world valued holly as much as we model builders do, I would be the richest man in Babylon! And I haven't even finished cutting up what I have...

Way back when an IBM XT was cutting edge, there was an excellent program = Word Perfect  that could search a document for all instances of a selected word.  This sort of program has become more sophisticated and capable and OCR has also.  In the posts where old school draftsmen are discussing a lost job type,  I am musing that there may have been specialists, no longer needed,  who assembled the index for technical books and articles.  Were I an author, I am pretty sure it would be a deal breaker if I was required to formulate an index for my own work pre computer.

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

It is an excellent job that you have done in laying your deck.
The darker raised strakes have an open grain that is similar to that of some Rock Elm that I have come across.  It may want filling of the pores.  I am not sure of the best way to do it though.
The blond species  looks great.  Adding trunnels is a modeler's convention that I enjoy.  On a real ship they would not be all that obvious.  They were often covered with plugs of the same wood as the decking, with  matching grain.
The end grain of any species will usually be darker.  If your trunnels were cored from the same blonde species,  they would show.  Using Pear, the contrast that comes from its end grain may be a more stark contrast than you really want.  Just a thought before you step off that cliff.

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

Real Unimat have been out if production for a while now.  Are you looking at a second hand machine?
Of late, some real junk has been showing up with the Unimat name.  Lots of plastic instead of cast Al.

I own the ANCRE monograph of Le Cerf.  I worked on lofting the frames for POF.   When I encountered the notches in the frames for the planks, the idea of doing that was more than I cared to attempt.  The framing style displayed in the monograph is unique to say the least.  I find the hull too small to offer much viewing joy if left unplanked.  Starting with base of a fully planked hull,  I opted to develop my theoretical plan of construction with all bends and scantlings that match a hull of that size in that era.  The traditional method of clinker assembly has the lands cut from the planks.   I speculate that full scale framing timbers would be a bit thick for a laser cutter to cut the notches.  I would not attempt to cut the notches in the timbers of 100 frames by hand.
 
Your work has shown me several things:
The efficiency of using a laser cutter to produce the proper notches in the moulds on a POB build.
That there is a method to the madness of the original builders in choosing the cut the lands into the much thicker framing instead of the thin planks.
As long as the notches are done correctly, the actual planking is idiot proof.  It is much more difficult to misplace a strake run.
That the planking went much more quickly for you using notches suggests that it was also faster for the full size builders. Even if they did not have the glue setup time as a factor.
Cutting the lands into each plank probably required more skill and experience as well as more time on the part of the shipwrights.
 
I thank you for running the experiment.  It was edifying and useful.  I expect that it was unintended and frustrating on your part, but it was valuable for those of us who can learn from it.
 
And,  if the results of my searches have been anywhere close for what is available,  you will find that Pear is a lot more difficult to find and expensive and Hornbeam near impossible on this side of the Atlantic.

Stee,
Your model does not look to be particularly affected by dust...yet.  The main source for damage and destruction for any wooden ship model is in the failure to place it in a proper case.  They can vary from an elegant piece of wooden furniture with glass or clear plastic sides and top to a glued plastic box.  All choices will involve some cost.  If you wish it to last, a case is pretty much necessary.
Keep it away from direct sunlight and allow for filtered air exchange.
 
It is a worthy icon for your grandfather's memory.  Keeping it and keeping it safe would show great respect.  He spent no little time and energy building it.  If you do case it, attach a narrative with as much information about him and it as you can gather to the bottom.  This way when this is passed on to a later generation,  more than vague and mostly forgotten stories will be with it.

Stee,
Your model does not look to be particularly affected by dust...yet.  The main source for damage and destruction for any wooden ship model is in the failure to place it in a proper case.  They can vary from an elegant piece of wooden furniture with glass or clear plastic sides and top to a glued plastic box.  All choices will involve some cost.  If you wish it to last, a case is pretty much necessary.
Keep it away from direct sunlight and allow for filtered air exchange.
 
It is a worthy icon for your grandfather's memory.  Keeping it and keeping it safe would show great respect.  He spent no little time and energy building it.  If you do case it, attach a narrative with as much information about him and it as you can gather to the bottom.  This way when this is passed on to a later generation,  more than vague and mostly forgotten stories will be with it.

Permanently filling the spaces above the wale added stability.  Consider a keelson;  and bilge riders at the head of futtock 1.   The clamps will certainly secure things.

I think you got it right.

POF - the framing at higher scales seems to me to require a higher volume of wood than I would anticipate - if I did not know better from experience.  You may come to understand what I meant by "Take out a loan and buy as much as you can."  I hope that I am wrong about this in your case.  If I calculated correctly, you are already $500 invested. The loss to kerf, really hurts.  The waste from scroll cutting individual timbers can approach 50% or more.  Mid ship is a lower loss to waste.  It gets progressively more wasteful as the bow and stern are approached.  If you assemble your frames by gluing up the plank stock in a horse shoe and scroll cutting the whole frame from a pattern on that,  all bets are off on the degree of waste.  That is in the WOW! zone.
If you are not subject to compulsion about uniformity in materials used, it may not be painful for you to be ruthless.  It would save your  supply and your financial reserves if the Castello was reserved for only those regions where it will be on display, and an Acer species is used in the hidden regions. 
If you are one of the meshuga and intend to display the innards at a higher range scale, instead of planking the topside and decks completely,  boy howdy on the volume used there!
Anyway, I admire your optimism in expecting even a Swan class sloop to only cost you one billet.