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Jaager

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  1. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Phantom ship boats   
    My first thought:  Compared to the ships that they worked for, the pilot craft seem like large boats themselves.
    The pilot craft were  both fast and maneuverable.   Some were in the 70-80 ft range in size.
    The 1st launch of USS Vincennes was 35 ft. Not the same size  but not all that different either.
    Rather than risk the hazard of two transfers, my thought is that the pilot vessel itself was able
    to get close enough for direct transfer of the pilot.  This from the description of USS Sea Gull and
    USS Flying Fish in the U.S. Ex. Ex. squadron given by N. Philbrick in SEA OF GLORY.
     
    Then I did some research:   The topic is addressed in Vol. 1 of Tom Cunliffe's PILOTS.
    Following its lead - I looked on the NRJ CD for volumes 1-40,  in Vol. 39.3  2 articles,  one by
    Eric Ronnberg Jr. and one by Jeff Megerdichian  cover subject with information and plans
    to allow scratch build of a pilot canoe/yawl that is likely as close as can be had.
  2. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Ageing Decks   
    I read that one way of holystoning a deck was : the stone was attached to 4 ropes and
    4 crewmen moved it back and forth over the deck while spreading sand around it.  This
    would essentially be sanding the deck.  Now - I have sanded a lot of species of wood. 
    All it did was to return the wood surface to its native color.  Apart from Holy, no species turned white. 
    Actual Holy would not be a realistic choice for a deck on a ship.  The holystoning would remove a
    sun bleached/oxidized grey and would help remove splinters which would be bad for the bare feet of
    the crewmen, as well as any tar stains from foot trafic - but how did this change the color of Pine or Fir or Oak to white? 
  3. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Ageing Decks   
    I read that one way of holystoning a deck was : the stone was attached to 4 ropes and
    4 crewmen moved it back and forth over the deck while spreading sand around it.  This
    would essentially be sanding the deck.  Now - I have sanded a lot of species of wood. 
    All it did was to return the wood surface to its native color.  Apart from Holy, no species turned white. 
    Actual Holy would not be a realistic choice for a deck on a ship.  The holystoning would remove a
    sun bleached/oxidized grey and would help remove splinters which would be bad for the bare feet of
    the crewmen, as well as any tar stains from foot trafic - but how did this change the color of Pine or Fir or Oak to white? 
  4. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Jim Rogers in Ageing Decks   
    I read that one way of holystoning a deck was : the stone was attached to 4 ropes and
    4 crewmen moved it back and forth over the deck while spreading sand around it.  This
    would essentially be sanding the deck.  Now - I have sanded a lot of species of wood. 
    All it did was to return the wood surface to its native color.  Apart from Holy, no species turned white. 
    Actual Holy would not be a realistic choice for a deck on a ship.  The holystoning would remove a
    sun bleached/oxidized grey and would help remove splinters which would be bad for the bare feet of
    the crewmen, as well as any tar stains from foot trafic - but how did this change the color of Pine or Fir or Oak to white? 
  5. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from BETAQDAVE in Wood Quality in old kits   
    Wood that seems to be too brittle or splinters is probably because an unsuitable species was chosen by the kit company to begin with.
    Living in a World of short lived manufactured items and plastics that either oxidize or continue to polymerize to brittleness over a short time span,
    it is easy to forget that when harvested, some wood was already several hundred years old on the hoof. The rapid growing species are often too soft, or coarse, 
    or contrasty, or easily split to be appropriate.  An exception seems to be various ornamental Pear. But their size and branch habits do not lend them
    to commercial interest. They are essentially DIY.
    The goal of seasoning is to get wood into a hydrated equilibrium with its ambient atmosphere. It can't get any dryer than that. 
    If the kit has been stored in a humid environment, it could have been invaded by fungus and ruined, but the box would have all but disintegrated too.
    Some members here have been on builds a lot longer than the 12 years your kit has been around.
  6. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Using Holly for decks   
    My guess is that some the 17th - 18th c English model makers used Holly for decks
    and/or someone closer to our time who was influential did and it got the
    status it has.
  7. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in pencil drill   
    Guessing that you are asking about AliExpress
     
    Under  Home Improvement
    is tool
    try 12V DC motors
    and drill chucks
    also have water stones
     
    They have low cost flex shafts with 1/4" sockets and chucks that mount there.
    I needed for 1" / 2" / 3" bowl sander tools (hook & loop media mount)  ( PeachTree)- but I
    bit the bullet and bought a Kirjes flex shaft from Lee Valley  to finish inside frame bevels
    instead of the low cost Chinese  tools.
     
    The cost is generally very low at Ali  - and mostly they are reliable - shipping is surface post and
    not too long.   There were a couple of mistakes- and instead of a refund - I got some sort of something
    for a cell phone - a device that I am mostly a Luddite about.  
  8. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Elijah in pencil drill   
    Small DC motors with chucks =
     
    AliExpress   a commune of sorts in China
    Marlin P Jones   motors, wires , and a DC 2A power supply that is 3/4.5/6/7.5/9/12 V  with banana plug and gator clamp wires - no need for batteries
    and speed control from power supply  @ $17  it would not take many batteries for it to be cost effective
  9. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Elijah in pencil drill   
    The General version has been on Micro Mark for a while.  There is a Jacobs chuck that fits it, so
    wire gauge bits can be used with it.
  10. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Using Holly for decks   
    My guess is that some the 17th - 18th c English model makers used Holly for decks
    and/or someone closer to our time who was influential did and it got the
    status it has.
  11. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Using Holly for decks   
    My guess is that some the 17th - 18th c English model makers used Holly for decks
    and/or someone closer to our time who was influential did and it got the
    status it has.
  12. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in First Resawing Adventure   
    Michael,
     
    A quick check on the Net for your area includes:
    C.R. Muterspaw Lumber   Xenia OH
    " sells the finest domestic, quartersawn, figured, and exotic hardwoods   ...  Our specialty is figured wood, including such species as Tiger Maple, Curly Hard Maple, Birdseye Maple, and Curly Cherry "
    Now, this is exactly the opposite of what interests me, but perhaps they have some plain straight grain boring stock too, maybe a deal can be had?
    Also,  while I prefer 2" length stock, anything from 6" on up is worth having, so end cuttings and short stock may be discounted.
    What they offer that would interest me +  Birch,  Cherry, Hard Maple, Poplar
     
    There is Western Ohio Hardwoods  in Dayton, but I found no Web presence, so what they are and what they have = ?
     
    You can also check for local saw mills - rough and green lumber often, but with a good band saw and proper storage - you can save there.
    I get more wood from the rough cut - not finish planed stock.
  13. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from PeteB in First Resawing Adventure   
    Cliff,
     
    Good start.
     
    You have more bravery than I have. Being compulsive, I would have taken the sanding planer with me.
    I am never sure how much thicker my stock must be to get a 220 finish on both
    sides and have all of the blade scars removed.
    I try to keep it as close to final as possible to get max yield.  The additional passes thru
    the thickness sander is tedious, time consuming and poor wood economy.
     
    In your place, I would find out the blade length for their bandsaw and if I could use my own on
    their machine.  If I could I would purchase 3 or 4  1/2" Wood Slicer blades from Highland.
    A 5/8" or 3/4" blade is not better at resawing than a 1/2" blade.  The steel is top quality.
    the blade is thin and it only has a minimum set,  so the kerf is as low as can be had.
    These blades last longer, but they are expensive and you only want to use  them for resawing.
    The trick for efficient tracking when resawing, is not having a wider blade.  The trick is in
    the blade position.  The cutting edge of the teeth should ride on the crown of the top wheel.
    And, a wider blade will not stop it wandering when the cutting edge gets dull
    I know for a fact that even a hard steel blade will snap if you push it when dull.
    The blade only needs have just enough tension. A tighter blade does not resist wander,
    it just more likely to break.
     
     
    I would also make friends with a couple of local tree service companies and pay them for any
    Pear, Hawthorn, Plum, and especially Apple butts and large limbs.  18-24" is plenty long.
    Cherry is great, and Sweet Cherry is similar in hardness and grain to Black Cherry, but the color is tan.  Unless they
    work old fence rows,  a tree service is only likely to cut eatable cherry trees.  Fortunately, Black
    Cherry is readily available from  commercial sources.  And half the work is done over self harvest,
    billeting, and drying.
     
    You are a good haul from the mountains and the deals to be had on rough cut 
    Hard Maple and Black Cherry, But it may be worth a trip, especially if you do not have a retail 
    yard like Yukon Lumber near by who also sell rough stock.. The mill planers take off significant wood, so a  smooth planed 3/4"
    board at a retail yard is 1- 1 1/4" thick at a country saw mill.  And yes, it is a PITA to get
    smooth face on the top and bottom edges of slabs resawn from rough boards, But frame  timbers
    do not need this anyway and you have up to a 1/2" more width - depending on how much checking there is.
  14. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in First Resawing Adventure   
    Michael,
     
    A quick check on the Net for your area includes:
    C.R. Muterspaw Lumber   Xenia OH
    " sells the finest domestic, quartersawn, figured, and exotic hardwoods   ...  Our specialty is figured wood, including such species as Tiger Maple, Curly Hard Maple, Birdseye Maple, and Curly Cherry "
    Now, this is exactly the opposite of what interests me, but perhaps they have some plain straight grain boring stock too, maybe a deal can be had?
    Also,  while I prefer 2" length stock, anything from 6" on up is worth having, so end cuttings and short stock may be discounted.
    What they offer that would interest me +  Birch,  Cherry, Hard Maple, Poplar
     
    There is Western Ohio Hardwoods  in Dayton, but I found no Web presence, so what they are and what they have = ?
     
    You can also check for local saw mills - rough and green lumber often, but with a good band saw and proper storage - you can save there.
    I get more wood from the rough cut - not finish planed stock.
  15. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from MEDDO in First Resawing Adventure   
    Michael,
     
    A quick check on the Net for your area includes:
    C.R. Muterspaw Lumber   Xenia OH
    " sells the finest domestic, quartersawn, figured, and exotic hardwoods   ...  Our specialty is figured wood, including such species as Tiger Maple, Curly Hard Maple, Birdseye Maple, and Curly Cherry "
    Now, this is exactly the opposite of what interests me, but perhaps they have some plain straight grain boring stock too, maybe a deal can be had?
    Also,  while I prefer 2" length stock, anything from 6" on up is worth having, so end cuttings and short stock may be discounted.
    What they offer that would interest me +  Birch,  Cherry, Hard Maple, Poplar
     
    There is Western Ohio Hardwoods  in Dayton, but I found no Web presence, so what they are and what they have = ?
     
    You can also check for local saw mills - rough and green lumber often, but with a good band saw and proper storage - you can save there.
    I get more wood from the rough cut - not finish planed stock.
  16. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gluing Planks When Wet   
    The "one plank at a time" = 
    one method of planking is to
    fit the wales
    fit the garboard strake.
    If the remaining space is large, site a batten or two to get
    a smooth run and divide the area into manageable zones.
    Determine the width of the first plank and fit it.  Then measure
    the remaining space and determine the width of the next plank
    from that, not all planks measured at once. 
    Since this is wood and a complex curved surface, each addition will change
    the open space in an unpredictable way. 
    It kind of precludes mass application, when doing this properly.
     
    It is more like two planks at a time - since P&S are measured together.
    Using PVA, an hour or two should be enough clamping time and since
    the process does not stress the plank, the next plank can be worked on,
    rather than over night.
     
    If you do not mind the holes and the support is sufficient, hitch chucks and lils will
    clamp a plank with some force.  Water may close the holes, they can be filled with bamboo
    "trunnels", if the lils are brass, nipped and filled - if you like the brass peg look-  I am thinking
    of trying drawn copper wire as trunnels. 
    Did anyone else see the photos of the old model where iron trunnels were used?  The chemical reaction
    with large black stains in the planks and erosion of the iron? 
  17. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gluing Planks When Wet   
    The "one plank at a time" = 
    one method of planking is to
    fit the wales
    fit the garboard strake.
    If the remaining space is large, site a batten or two to get
    a smooth run and divide the area into manageable zones.
    Determine the width of the first plank and fit it.  Then measure
    the remaining space and determine the width of the next plank
    from that, not all planks measured at once. 
    Since this is wood and a complex curved surface, each addition will change
    the open space in an unpredictable way. 
    It kind of precludes mass application, when doing this properly.
     
    It is more like two planks at a time - since P&S are measured together.
    Using PVA, an hour or two should be enough clamping time and since
    the process does not stress the plank, the next plank can be worked on,
    rather than over night.
     
    If you do not mind the holes and the support is sufficient, hitch chucks and lils will
    clamp a plank with some force.  Water may close the holes, they can be filled with bamboo
    "trunnels", if the lils are brass, nipped and filled - if you like the brass peg look-  I am thinking
    of trying drawn copper wire as trunnels. 
    Did anyone else see the photos of the old model where iron trunnels were used?  The chemical reaction
    with large black stains in the planks and erosion of the iron? 
  18. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gluing Planks When Wet   
    To supplement Mark's post, in addition to the run of the grain, the species used can also produce problems.
    The solution is to use species suited to our needs.  They tend to be more expensive and harder.  The hardness
    means longer milling time and increased wear on cutting tools. 
    The catalyst for the CA glue bonding reaction is water, so the bond should occur faster if anything with a damp
    surface.
    Wood in a humidor?  My guess is that fungus would find that favorable.  The wood should be in equilibrium with it
    finished environment.
  19. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mischief in First Resawing Adventure   
    Cliff,
     
    Good start.
     
    You have more bravery than I have. Being compulsive, I would have taken the sanding planer with me.
    I am never sure how much thicker my stock must be to get a 220 finish on both
    sides and have all of the blade scars removed.
    I try to keep it as close to final as possible to get max yield.  The additional passes thru
    the thickness sander is tedious, time consuming and poor wood economy.
     
    In your place, I would find out the blade length for their bandsaw and if I could use my own on
    their machine.  If I could I would purchase 3 or 4  1/2" Wood Slicer blades from Highland.
    A 5/8" or 3/4" blade is not better at resawing than a 1/2" blade.  The steel is top quality.
    the blade is thin and it only has a minimum set,  so the kerf is as low as can be had.
    These blades last longer, but they are expensive and you only want to use  them for resawing.
    The trick for efficient tracking when resawing, is not having a wider blade.  The trick is in
    the blade position.  The cutting edge of the teeth should ride on the crown of the top wheel.
    And, a wider blade will not stop it wandering when the cutting edge gets dull
    I know for a fact that even a hard steel blade will snap if you push it when dull.
    The blade only needs have just enough tension. A tighter blade does not resist wander,
    it just more likely to break.
     
     
    I would also make friends with a couple of local tree service companies and pay them for any
    Pear, Hawthorn, Plum, and especially Apple butts and large limbs.  18-24" is plenty long.
    Cherry is great, and Sweet Cherry is similar in hardness and grain to Black Cherry, but the color is tan.  Unless they
    work old fence rows,  a tree service is only likely to cut eatable cherry trees.  Fortunately, Black
    Cherry is readily available from  commercial sources.  And half the work is done over self harvest,
    billeting, and drying.
     
    You are a good haul from the mountains and the deals to be had on rough cut 
    Hard Maple and Black Cherry, But it may be worth a trip, especially if you do not have a retail 
    yard like Yukon Lumber near by who also sell rough stock.. The mill planers take off significant wood, so a  smooth planed 3/4"
    board at a retail yard is 1- 1 1/4" thick at a country saw mill.  And yes, it is a PITA to get
    smooth face on the top and bottom edges of slabs resawn from rough boards, But frame  timbers
    do not need this anyway and you have up to a 1/2" more width - depending on how much checking there is.
  20. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gluing Planks When Wet   
    To supplement Mark's post, in addition to the run of the grain, the species used can also produce problems.
    The solution is to use species suited to our needs.  They tend to be more expensive and harder.  The hardness
    means longer milling time and increased wear on cutting tools. 
    The catalyst for the CA glue bonding reaction is water, so the bond should occur faster if anything with a damp
    surface.
    Wood in a humidor?  My guess is that fungus would find that favorable.  The wood should be in equilibrium with it
    finished environment.
  21. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for good copper foil   
    Take a look at Bare Metal Foil - one of their products is copper.
    No idea about the longevity of the adhesive backing.
    As a material that can be burnished - the thickness may be
    closer to scale  than the usual choices.
    I have no hands on experience with it.
     
    As what is now ancient history, I followed the suggestion from
    the original Model Shipways, with copper rectangles, flamed treated
    to darken and adhered using Weldwood contact cement.  The
    combination failed to stick after a few years.  The plates  popped off,
    the remaining cement was a copper color, so an explanation may be
    a chemical reaction that migrated copper into the adhesive and negated
    its bonding capacity.
  22. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Looking for good copper foil   
    Take a look at Bare Metal Foil - one of their products is copper.
    No idea about the longevity of the adhesive backing.
    As a material that can be burnished - the thickness may be
    closer to scale  than the usual choices.
    I have no hands on experience with it.
     
    As what is now ancient history, I followed the suggestion from
    the original Model Shipways, with copper rectangles, flamed treated
    to darken and adhered using Weldwood contact cement.  The
    combination failed to stick after a few years.  The plates  popped off,
    the remaining cement was a copper color, so an explanation may be
    a chemical reaction that migrated copper into the adhesive and negated
    its bonding capacity.
  23. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Can this hull be saved? (US Brig Lawrence)   
    To answer your primary question- being literal = yes
    If you can't get the "brindle" effect reversed to satisfaction, and if you are
    near a Wood Craft outlet, check out their selection of veneer.  Something
    like a thin Beech to overlay what you have.  It could be dyed before being
    laid - a dye will not affect PVA bonding. 
    Super blonde shellac with or without Tung oil = a bit more control over surface
    sheen.
  24. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from Geoff Matson in Can this hull be saved? (US Brig Lawrence)   
    To answer your primary question- being literal = yes
    If you can't get the "brindle" effect reversed to satisfaction, and if you are
    near a Wood Craft outlet, check out their selection of veneer.  Something
    like a thin Beech to overlay what you have.  It could be dyed before being
    laid - a dye will not affect PVA bonding. 
    Super blonde shellac with or without Tung oil = a bit more control over surface
    sheen.
  25. Like
    Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Can this hull be saved? (US Brig Lawrence)   
    To answer your primary question- being literal = yes
    If you can't get the "brindle" effect reversed to satisfaction, and if you are
    near a Wood Craft outlet, check out their selection of veneer.  Something
    like a thin Beech to overlay what you have.  It could be dyed before being
    laid - a dye will not affect PVA bonding. 
    Super blonde shellac with or without Tung oil = a bit more control over surface
    sheen.
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