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Looking for good copper foil

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I've used the model shipways copper foil provided in some of there kits and it aged really well over a period of six months or so. 

I've also used some other copper foil I have purchased from hobby lobby and it certainly has a clear coat and does not petina properly.


i used the copper foil in the model shipways  Essex kit, and it worked really well, you can see it in my album of finished builds gallery and would like to find some more similar foil.


can someone help me identify by brand name of any copper foil providers which do not use a clear coat over the copper. 

Model shipways offers some but I have not seen any large rolls for sale.


thanks for any help. A.Jorden 

Edited by greatgalleons
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Take a look at Bare Metal Foil - one of their products is copper.

No idea about the longevity of the adhesive backing.

As a material that can be burnished - the thickness may be

closer to scale  than the usual choices.

I have no hands on experience with it.


As what is now ancient history, I followed the suggestion from

the original Model Shipways, with copper rectangles, flamed treated

to darken and adhered using Weldwood contact cement.  The

combination failed to stick after a few years.  The plates  popped off,

the remaining cement was a copper color, so an explanation may be

a chemical reaction that migrated copper into the adhesive and negated

its bonding capacity.

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Do a search for copper leaf or copper shim stock.  I believe K&S has foil/shim stock from .001 to .005 thickness.  Neither leaf, foil or shim stock has a clear coat and it isn't expensive.  If you go with any of these be sure and get the thicker stuff as it is easier to use for model work.  However the really thin leaf is to delicate for most models although for putting a copper bottom on a really small scale model it is perfect.

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  • 1 month later...

Varnishes and adhesives can be usually removed with acetone or white spirit, then polish with very fine (0000) steel-wool.


Certain adhesives can be 'poisoned' by heavy metal ions, such as copper. Cu can, for instance, inhibit the polymerisation of cyanoacrylate adhesives, they just don't harden or not sufficiently. A solvent-base contact cement is a better choice, provided the solvent can diffuse out through the hull. It is also a good idea to provide some 'key' on the copper glueing-surface by rubbing it with steel-wool, e.g. 00.


Flame-treating of copper leads to the formation of various types of copper oxides. These oxides can become detached from the metal with time, particularly, when the oxidation progresses through humidity. Glueing an oxidised copper-sheet results sooner or later in a failure of the bond. Remove all oxidation by rubbing with steel-wool and degrease with acetone.

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