Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in sealing solid hull
Having had bond failure between Weldwood contact cement and flame treated copper plates - a method in the 1970's Model Shipways catalog - investigate the best conditions for bonding with your chosen adhesive and use that to determine what treatment to give the hull.
It has been a very long time since I saw the brig Eagle hull, but as I remember, the cement under the failed plates was copper colored, making it difficult to tell they were missing. I suspect the heating process produced a micro layer of a copper oxide that was not compatible with Weldwood. I also use it to attach cloth backed sanding medium to the platten of my thickness sander. A heat gun makes for easy removal of the spent sanding medium. I suspect that Weldwood is medium time frame adhesive.
My present thinking on coppering is to use a high quality archival smooth surface paper painted with copper and verdigris shades and use PVA to attach it to a raw wood hull.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in sealing solid hull
Having had bond failure between Weldwood contact cement and flame treated copper plates - a method in the 1970's Model Shipways catalog - investigate the best conditions for bonding with your chosen adhesive and use that to determine what treatment to give the hull.
It has been a very long time since I saw the brig Eagle hull, but as I remember, the cement under the failed plates was copper colored, making it difficult to tell they were missing. I suspect the heating process produced a micro layer of a copper oxide that was not compatible with Weldwood. I also use it to attach cloth backed sanding medium to the platten of my thickness sander. A heat gun makes for easy removal of the spent sanding medium. I suspect that Weldwood is medium time frame adhesive.
My present thinking on coppering is to use a high quality archival smooth surface paper painted with copper and verdigris shades and use PVA to attach it to a raw wood hull.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in sealing solid hull
If it is intended to adhere to glass,then poly will provide a plastic surface that is about as close to glass as can be had. You probably want to give the surface a good rubdown wit 0000 steel wool, before, between and after each coat. Vacuum and tack rag the dust and steel fragments throughly after each treatment. Any steel left can rust and stain. 600 grit Silicon carbide paper may be a good alternative to steel wool.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in sealing solid hull
If it is intended to adhere to glass,then poly will provide a plastic surface that is about as close to glass as can be had. You probably want to give the surface a good rubdown wit 0000 steel wool, before, between and after each coat. Vacuum and tack rag the dust and steel fragments throughly after each treatment. Any steel left can rust and stain. 600 grit Silicon carbide paper may be a good alternative to steel wool.
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Jaager got a reaction from lionfish in sealing solid hull
If it is intended to adhere to glass,then poly will provide a plastic surface that is about as close to glass as can be had. You probably want to give the surface a good rubdown wit 0000 steel wool, before, between and after each coat. Vacuum and tack rag the dust and steel fragments throughly after each treatment. Any steel left can rust and stain. 600 grit Silicon carbide paper may be a good alternative to steel wool.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Top Railing 90 deg. Joints-What type of Joint is used?
My first thought was snarky- especially for the English shipwrights: Why do a simple butt joint when you can do a scarph?
Then thinking about it - the structure is subject to constant motion and stress in all 4 dimensions - though the effect of Time is much more gradual. A straight butt joint would be difficult to fasten in a way that was not subject to early failure.
Quick research answer: Not a butt joint or a scarph - a third element : a lateral knee was worked in. It spanned about 1/2 the width of the rail timbers, each arm would be long enough to support a couple of horizontal trunnels into each rail segment and the inner surface would be an arc rather than an abrupt meeting of two planes.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Top Railing 90 deg. Joints-What type of Joint is used?
My first thought was snarky- especially for the English shipwrights: Why do a simple butt joint when you can do a scarph?
Then thinking about it - the structure is subject to constant motion and stress in all 4 dimensions - though the effect of Time is much more gradual. A straight butt joint would be difficult to fasten in a way that was not subject to early failure.
Quick research answer: Not a butt joint or a scarph - a third element : a lateral knee was worked in. It spanned about 1/2 the width of the rail timbers, each arm would be long enough to support a couple of horizontal trunnels into each rail segment and the inner surface would be an arc rather than an abrupt meeting of two planes.
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Jaager got a reaction from dgbot in Top Railing 90 deg. Joints-What type of Joint is used?
My first thought was snarky- especially for the English shipwrights: Why do a simple butt joint when you can do a scarph?
Then thinking about it - the structure is subject to constant motion and stress in all 4 dimensions - though the effect of Time is much more gradual. A straight butt joint would be difficult to fasten in a way that was not subject to early failure.
Quick research answer: Not a butt joint or a scarph - a third element : a lateral knee was worked in. It spanned about 1/2 the width of the rail timbers, each arm would be long enough to support a couple of horizontal trunnels into each rail segment and the inner surface would be an arc rather than an abrupt meeting of two planes.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Small Lathe
For ways and static surfaces, I am now using Renaissance Wax. For the threads and general lubrication, I used to use light machine oil. I had a quart from Sears that I used up. I could find nothing like it on line. I guess I do not know the correct name for it, I use mineral oil from the laxative section of a pharmacy for lubrication now. No problems so far. Used to be light and heavy Mineral oil available, now all I find is plain mineral oil.
Using a Scotch Brite Pad with WD40 works a champ to remove rust before rubbing down with the wax.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Bass/Lime wood for a fully framed model?
To you guys in the UK :
There is a hardwood that should be readily available - Sycamore maple Acer pseudoplatanus
It is very similar to our Hard maple (sugar / rock ).
It was a species favored by Underhill.
Because of the difference in local vernacular, I got a supply of Sycamore from a sawmill in Eastern Kentucky. Alas, Sycamore here is a different species in another genus Platanus occidentalis. For our purposes, pseudo platanus is better than actual platanus.
Our version is less dense, is a lot more brittle - more readily splits - gets fuzzy. It is also sold as lacewood because of it's ray flecks - which at scale - presents something that looks like nothing in nature.
Looking at lumber prices in the UK - from what I can see - the prices are outrageous - they really see you guys coming. If you have local furniture makers, I would visit and see where they get their lumber - they may even have cutoffs or surplus you could get a deal on.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Bass/Lime wood for a fully framed model?
To you guys in the UK :
There is a hardwood that should be readily available - Sycamore maple Acer pseudoplatanus
It is very similar to our Hard maple (sugar / rock ).
It was a species favored by Underhill.
Because of the difference in local vernacular, I got a supply of Sycamore from a sawmill in Eastern Kentucky. Alas, Sycamore here is a different species in another genus Platanus occidentalis. For our purposes, pseudo platanus is better than actual platanus.
Our version is less dense, is a lot more brittle - more readily splits - gets fuzzy. It is also sold as lacewood because of it's ray flecks - which at scale - presents something that looks like nothing in nature.
Looking at lumber prices in the UK - from what I can see - the prices are outrageous - they really see you guys coming. If you have local furniture makers, I would visit and see where they get their lumber - they may even have cutoffs or surplus you could get a deal on.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gunports
You are your own shipwright, if you wish to mount a plasma pulse cannon on the deck, you are free to do it. Anachronisms and additions without reasonable documentation tends to drive those with a historian tendency berserk. No matter as long as you are honest about what your model really represents. It would not pass muster in a competition, most likely.
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Jaager got a reaction from AON in Gunports
Since POB does not mimic original methods, you have some room to play.
I would do it like this. Before the real outer planking is applied, locate all of the gunports.
Get some hardwood stock that is about 4 inches thick in scale. 1:75, right? So about 0.05 inches thick.
Use this to make a "picture frame" structure for each port. So widen the port by 0.05" top/ bottom/ each side.
As you look at the side, the frame will be 0.05" each side. The depth will be determined by what is there.
Fit the lower and upper sills first, then slide in the side pieces (frames - or timbers scabbed to frames).
Make the framing flush with the first planking layer.
For the outside planking, look at the plans and see if the port lid had a lip on the side ( a recess in the planking ). Some vessels had this and some had the edge of the planking flush with the side port framing. You can always plank flush and chisel in the lip later.
Inside - is it that there is only 1 layer of planking? If so, only cut the actual port opening there and butt the port framing against that layer.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Gunports
Since POB does not mimic original methods, you have some room to play.
I would do it like this. Before the real outer planking is applied, locate all of the gunports.
Get some hardwood stock that is about 4 inches thick in scale. 1:75, right? So about 0.05 inches thick.
Use this to make a "picture frame" structure for each port. So widen the port by 0.05" top/ bottom/ each side.
As you look at the side, the frame will be 0.05" each side. The depth will be determined by what is there.
Fit the lower and upper sills first, then slide in the side pieces (frames - or timbers scabbed to frames).
Make the framing flush with the first planking layer.
For the outside planking, look at the plans and see if the port lid had a lip on the side ( a recess in the planking ). Some vessels had this and some had the edge of the planking flush with the side port framing. You can always plank flush and chisel in the lip later.
Inside - is it that there is only 1 layer of planking? If so, only cut the actual port opening there and butt the port framing against that layer.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gunports
Since POB does not mimic original methods, you have some room to play.
I would do it like this. Before the real outer planking is applied, locate all of the gunports.
Get some hardwood stock that is about 4 inches thick in scale. 1:75, right? So about 0.05 inches thick.
Use this to make a "picture frame" structure for each port. So widen the port by 0.05" top/ bottom/ each side.
As you look at the side, the frame will be 0.05" each side. The depth will be determined by what is there.
Fit the lower and upper sills first, then slide in the side pieces (frames - or timbers scabbed to frames).
Make the framing flush with the first planking layer.
For the outside planking, look at the plans and see if the port lid had a lip on the side ( a recess in the planking ). Some vessels had this and some had the edge of the planking flush with the side port framing. You can always plank flush and chisel in the lip later.
Inside - is it that there is only 1 layer of planking? If so, only cut the actual port opening there and butt the port framing against that layer.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in unidentified incomplete large model ship
It looks like it could be a pond yacht. One that actually sails. The keel / rudder does not match any of the competition models in my copy of 1985 Model Boats Plans Handbook.
It may not be all that incomplete. It has more deck detail than the competitor types seem to have, but less than a static model. It may be a fun sailing boat with just enough detail to make it interesting when seen from a distance. The sails and rigging may have been lost, as they were probably stored separately.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Cutting Basswood
I would think a hand fret/coping/jewelers saw would do the trick. Blades are easy to find in the 3-8 range. There are variety packs. I think for basswood, you need very sharp edges to avoid tearing out the wood fibers. It is like a scroll saw, except that you are the motor. You should find something functional for less than $20 US.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Anatomy of The Ship Mary Rose-new book
It is on my wish list.
When looking at Cog models ( which I thick of as an immediate ancestor of Mary Rose )
the construction of the castles brought a concept to mind: the hull up to the main or upper deck (depending on ship size) was built by shipwrights. the castles were added on by the craftsmen who built land based castles and other buildings. The general lack of curves and the general components do not look like a shipwright's work. Practically, I don't think they needed the particular skills of a shipwright. Another thought, if a merchant ship was drafted as a warship when needed, the castles could be a temporary addition.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Anatomy of The Ship Mary Rose-new book
It is on my wish list.
When looking at Cog models ( which I thick of as an immediate ancestor of Mary Rose )
the construction of the castles brought a concept to mind: the hull up to the main or upper deck (depending on ship size) was built by shipwrights. the castles were added on by the craftsmen who built land based castles and other buildings. The general lack of curves and the general components do not look like a shipwright's work. Practically, I don't think they needed the particular skills of a shipwright. Another thought, if a merchant ship was drafted as a warship when needed, the castles could be a temporary addition.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Steam tool for bending wood model ship planks?
A vegetable/rice/food steamer cooker should do the trick.
Black & Decker and Oster both have long oval models for < $40.
They are also useful for cooking rice and veggies, so be more cost effective than most tools we buy.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Steam tool for bending wood model ship planks?
A vegetable/rice/food steamer cooker should do the trick.
Black & Decker and Oster both have long oval models for < $40.
They are also useful for cooking rice and veggies, so be more cost effective than most tools we buy.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Windlass on 18th Century longboat
BOATS OF MEN OF WAR
MAY,W E
NIP/Chatham 1999
describes an interesting addition: two tubular trunks, one on either side of the keel at the windlass, thru the bottom of the Launch.
Ropes up thru the trunks to the windlass could lift and hold for transport - anchors and cannon. A solution to a potential tipping or stern dipping problem. Investigation of this was begun in1818.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Windlass on 18th Century longboat
BOATS OF MEN OF WAR
MAY,W E
NIP/Chatham 1999
describes an interesting addition: two tubular trunks, one on either side of the keel at the windlass, thru the bottom of the Launch.
Ropes up thru the trunks to the windlass could lift and hold for transport - anchors and cannon. A solution to a potential tipping or stern dipping problem. Investigation of this was begun in1818.
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Jaager got a reaction from shiloh in Windlass on 18th Century longboat
BOATS OF MEN OF WAR
MAY,W E
NIP/Chatham 1999
describes an interesting addition: two tubular trunks, one on either side of the keel at the windlass, thru the bottom of the Launch.
Ropes up thru the trunks to the windlass could lift and hold for transport - anchors and cannon. A solution to a potential tipping or stern dipping problem. Investigation of this was begun in1818.
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Jaager got a reaction from JesseLee in CA for rigging
Ulises,
100/3 , 80/3 , 18/3 are the size of the linen in an old standard termed LEA.
18 is much larger than 100.
It is the yarn size.
Fibers twist into Yarn twist into Thread (or model rope) twist into (for our purposes) Rope.
62/1 is a linen yarn. It is a single unit of twisted plant fibers.
100/3 is a linen thread. It is three 100 yarns twisted into a three strand thread.
Linen is much more coarse than cotton. Most linen yarns are much larger than cotton thread. The 62/1 linen is not much different from a #100 cotton thread.
The whole subject of rope size can be confusing.
Rope is subject to compression, so "micrometering" it does not give reproducible results.
The most common way for us to measure size is to wrap a section of the rope around a dowel (closely packed, but not extreme) and count the number of revolutions in an inch. This gives the rope diameter.
The reference books like Steele have tables of sizes - as rope circumference.
Take our diameter measurement and multiply by pi (3.1416..........) to get the circumference.
I suspect that there are models out there with rigging that is 3 times out of scale.
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