How Do You Drive Those Tiny Nails?

[Julie Mo]

I took a pair of needle nose pliers and tried to drive a small brass nail.  It slid to the side and bent the head end of the nail.  I can't see hammering them working.  What tool is supposed to be used?

 

Thanks,

Julie

[jbshan]

But the best way to get a good insertion is to drill a pilot hole - takes longer per nail but saves so much time over all.

Far less likely to split the wood as well, which can happen both by the insertion process and if you get the nail a little off line and it twists in the wood.

[popeye the sailor]

personally,  I've had good luck with the pin pushers.   I can only work with the 7 mm brads though........not sure if they have one for the 10 mm brads.   I used to use a solid rod with a handle on it...but it was too much trouble.   had to push the brad in part way.

[md1400cs]

Julie,

 

SpyGlass is right-on. I have always had great success by pre-drilling the holes. Try a couple of bits first. Find one that allows the nail to be inserted with some resistance. Push it in with a micro flat file so that he head won't shift as you push it in.

 

In fact I pre-almost all of my nails except for first plankings. I hope that this works for you.

 

Michael

 

Edited November 18, 2015 by md1400cs

[Julie Mo]

Thank you!

 

Now another newbie question - Where do you find a drill and bit that small?

 

This?

[robnbill]

Craft supply, modeling supply stores, Amazon all sell the pin drills. You can get a set of incremental sizes fairly reasonably. Of course, just like any other tool you get what you pay for. I found a cheap set with many of each size for wood. They tend to break. I also spent a lot more to get high quality pin drills for brass. Those I only use on metal.

 

Also be aware that the brass pins that come in a kit are used primarily to hold the wood strips while they are gluing. Then they are removed. Treenails are added to the strips once the glue has dried. These can be made out of wood such as bamboo, brass or copper, and once installed are clipped and sanded flush with the planks. However depending on the scale of your model treenails can be too large, even small ones for the model. 

 

Another method for marking treenails is to make faux nails by imprinting the wood with a very sharp pencil. This can be used pretty effectively if the scale is too small for wood or metal.

There are many examples of models with treenails of all kinds as well as those who have used the brass. It is a look and it is your model so play with the various methods and choose one you like.

[ccoyle]

If you are using the nails to hold planks while gluing, the best advice is:  don't.  There are better ways of doing that job.

[Jolley Roger]

I use one of these Nail holders from Micro-Mark.

[Jaager]

Maybe you should start low tech =

 

 

The middle one works best for me.

 

The wood is usually thin enough that hand drilling goes quickly.

 

 

You need bits:

 

 

This one is convenient.   When you break a bit, replacements come per gauge - usually in packs of 6-10.

 

If you know the gauge for the brass nail, having backups is good.

 

This is a handy tool =

 

 

This one along with this:

 

 

I use as my draw plates to make trunnels from bamboo skewers - end caps in most grocery stores.

 

 

 

[ccoyle]

I always bow to Chris 

 

Well, that makes one, then.

 

Seriously, though, if someone likes using the nails, then I would be the last to stop them.  More than one way to skin a cat.  

[realworkingsailor]

I have a set of these: http://www.micromark.com/spike-insertion-plier,8242.html

 

They work brilliantly. No slips, no bent nails.

 

 

Andy

[usedtosail]

Aw Andy, you beat me to it. I also use those pliers and they work great for me too.

[mtaylor]

If the pins/nails are just used for holding planks in place while gluing, here's I've finally settled on after trying other types of clamps, nails, etc....

 

Office pushpin.  Drill a hole off to the side of the plank such that the pin fits snugly... not tight, and not loose.  When done, just pull it out.  No damage to the plank.    See photos... and please excuse the mess... this is still work in progress.

 

[jbshan]

Here's a pic of the pencil technique.  This is 1/2" or 1:24 scale.

 

[Julie Mo]

If the pins/nails are just used for holding planks in place while gluing, here's I've finally settled on after trying other types of clamps, nails, etc....

 

Office pushpin.  Drill a hole off to the side of the plank such that the pin fits snugly... not tight, and not loose.  When done, just pull it out.  No damage to the plank.    See photos... and please excuse the mess... this is still work in progress.

Right now I have to temporarily nail the plywood deck sheet to check alignment, etc. before beginning the frame glue-up. 

 

The kit also comes with a dinghy and the instructions show using nails to hold the planks at the bow in place.  They have to be removed to free the boat from the planking form.  I don't see that turning out very pretty.  I want to form the planks so the nails aren't necessary.

[mtaylor]

Ah... in my top picture, there's a clothes pin (peg) at the bow.  The spring has been reversed and sandpaper glued to the gripping area on both pieces.   I've been using that method as there just isn't a way I could find to secure the planking at the bow while spiling and then gluing.

[Julie Mo]

Ah... in my top picture, there's a clothes pin (peg) at the bow.  The spring has been reversed and sandpaper glued to the gripping area on both pieces.   I've been using that method as there just isn't a way I could find to secure the planking at the bow while spiling and then gluing.

The dinghy doesn't have one of those thingys protruding at the bow so the clothes pin won't work.  But if someone walked in with Limburger cheese, I might find another use for it.