Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Mic_Nao in HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
HMS Anson 1781 second group of the Intrepid class 64 gun
1st class
Intrepid 1779 1771
Monmouth 1772 1778
Defiance 1772 1778
Nonsuch 1774 1776
Ruby 1776 1778
2nd class
Vigilant 1774
Eagle 1774 1776
America 1777 1778
Anson 1781
Polyphemus 1782
Magnanime 1780
Sampson 1781
Repulse 1780
Diadem 1782 1783
Standard 1782
This class is one of the more documented designs
ZAZ
1486 lines L37 J3635
1487 frames 45 3682
1488 inboard
1489 orlop
1490 GD
1491 UD
1409 orlop 34 3242
1410 GD 34 3241
1311 UD 34 3240
1412 QD/FC 32 3239
If no print has ever been ordered and is not in stock: no price
The NMM wed site has the J# but does not identify them.
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Jaager got a reaction from AON in HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
HMS Anson 1781 second group of the Intrepid class 64 gun
1st class
Intrepid 1779 1771
Monmouth 1772 1778
Defiance 1772 1778
Nonsuch 1774 1776
Ruby 1776 1778
2nd class
Vigilant 1774
Eagle 1774 1776
America 1777 1778
Anson 1781
Polyphemus 1782
Magnanime 1780
Sampson 1781
Repulse 1780
Diadem 1782 1783
Standard 1782
This class is one of the more documented designs
ZAZ
1486 lines L37 J3635
1487 frames 45 3682
1488 inboard
1489 orlop
1490 GD
1491 UD
1409 orlop 34 3242
1410 GD 34 3241
1311 UD 34 3240
1412 QD/FC 32 3239
If no print has ever been ordered and is not in stock: no price
The NMM wed site has the J# but does not identify them.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
HMS Anson 1781 second group of the Intrepid class 64 gun
1st class
Intrepid 1779 1771
Monmouth 1772 1778
Defiance 1772 1778
Nonsuch 1774 1776
Ruby 1776 1778
2nd class
Vigilant 1774
Eagle 1774 1776
America 1777 1778
Anson 1781
Polyphemus 1782
Magnanime 1780
Sampson 1781
Repulse 1780
Diadem 1782 1783
Standard 1782
This class is one of the more documented designs
ZAZ
1486 lines L37 J3635
1487 frames 45 3682
1488 inboard
1489 orlop
1490 GD
1491 UD
1409 orlop 34 3242
1410 GD 34 3241
1311 UD 34 3240
1412 QD/FC 32 3239
If no print has ever been ordered and is not in stock: no price
The NMM wed site has the J# but does not identify them.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Split ring making process
There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Split ring making process
The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe - I think heat will soften brass and maybe Cu?
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Jaager got a reaction from wefalck in Split ring making process
The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe - I think heat will soften brass and maybe Cu?
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Split ring making process
There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Split ring making process
The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe - I think heat will soften brass and maybe Cu?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Split ring making process
There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.
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Jaager got a reaction from Snug Harbor Johnny in Split ring making process
There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.
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Jaager got a reaction from Dave_E in Split ring making process
There is a shop note - I have not saved the author's name or journal reference - but he got a much longer life from his disks by coating one side with epoxy glue - I think the watery clear flavor epoxy.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Split ring making process
The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe - I think heat will soften brass and maybe Cu?
-
Jaager got a reaction from BenD in Split ring making process
The technique that I read and stored in memory:
a drill with a shank diameter equal to the inside diameter of the rings
brass or copper wire that is the diameter of the ring body
wrap a tight coil of the wire around the drill shank
saw the coil = lots of open rings
solder
I am wondering if a resistance solder machine would play nice for this?
A plot devise in "Crash and Burn" had a primary character go loony from breathing the heavy metals in circuit board solder - so I good ventilation with soldering may be prudent.
Copper and brass are ductile - with a jewelers draw plate, theoretically one fat wire can be drawn down to any diameter desired.
There is more to it than that - for brass at least - working it causes it to harden - it gets harder to pull
Heat will harden Fe - I think heat will soften brass and maybe Cu?
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Jaager got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in Painting a ships hull with a copper and green look paint
For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Your wooden kit progression - go big, or keep learning/practicing?
This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on. They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general. No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre. Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups.
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills - probably attenuates most of the first group. For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Looking for suggestions for a good pin pusher
For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
At Micro Mark the name is Pin insertion plier
In general it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank. In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding. For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway. A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model. The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Getting wood cut
To explain my answer:
That the question was even asked and the way it is phrased indicates to me that the OP is a relative beginner.
My process has no function for a scroll saw - I use a 9" bandsaw for my scroll cuttings -I do not need to get close. I did buy a scroll saw long ago - the economy MM. It is terrible. Were I to need a scroll saw, I learned that it needs to be a quality machine - not one that fights you all of the way.
The OP should get far enough into this to have a good idea which machines he will need before an expensive machine is purchased. The time spent using hand tools will be a low cost if he decides that all this is not for him.
If he buys an expensive machine and then bails, the winner will be whoever gets an expensive saw at low cost from the garage sale.
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Jaager got a reaction from Esap in Your wooden kit progression - go big, or keep learning/practicing?
This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on. They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general. No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre. Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups.
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills - probably attenuates most of the first group. For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Getting wood cut
To explain my answer:
That the question was even asked and the way it is phrased indicates to me that the OP is a relative beginner.
My process has no function for a scroll saw - I use a 9" bandsaw for my scroll cuttings -I do not need to get close. I did buy a scroll saw long ago - the economy MM. It is terrible. Were I to need a scroll saw, I learned that it needs to be a quality machine - not one that fights you all of the way.
The OP should get far enough into this to have a good idea which machines he will need before an expensive machine is purchased. The time spent using hand tools will be a low cost if he decides that all this is not for him.
If he buys an expensive machine and then bails, the winner will be whoever gets an expensive saw at low cost from the garage sale.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Getting wood cut
You are using terms for the parts that are more appropriate for POF. This gets you into a whole nuther world of tools.
You are asking about the keel as well as asking about cutting out frames (not really a POF function - the keel is a long stick and frames come from timbers).
I will guess that you mean the spine and the moulds. These are POB components. The answer here is low cost and simple.
Except that my examples are the expensive options of the tools:
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in 120 years old model sailing ship
Read this:
In New Member Introduction
New and need help to identify a mystery model? Read here first!
(sorry - I have poor skills in capturing links)
Unless your great grandfather worked in a starving artist workshop in the wreckage of post WWI Germany that was turning out these items aimed at a tourist market, I doubt that you are related to the actual builder.
To repeat myself:
"What you have there is decorator kitsch. It is not a ship model in any meaningful definition of the term. It is something that sorta looks like a ship - from a distance, in dark light, thru a gauze curtain, if you squint. That said, it probably has value as its own thing. I doubt that the value involves much money, but as time passes, what was once one of many copies will become more unique. If collecting kitsch as kitsch ever becomes a thing, who knows?"
New member Introductions Need Help Identify Model Battleship / Recently Saved From The Curbside
(sorry - I have poor skills in capturing links)
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Jaager got a reaction from CPDDET in Looking for suggestions for a good pin pusher
For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
At Micro Mark the name is Pin insertion plier
In general it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank. In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding. For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway. A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model. The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.
-
Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Looking for suggestions for a good pin pusher
For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
At Micro Mark the name is Pin insertion plier
In general it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank. In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding. For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway. A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model. The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Capella in Looking for suggestions for a good pin pusher
For most of the past - I use curved Kelly clamps - the direction of the force is oblique to the wrist - which is not ideal.
Recently, I have found this MM tool to be useful:
At Micro Mark the name is Pin insertion plier
In general it is best to pre-drill a hole that is the diameter of the pin in the plank. In a frame, a hole that is a tad smaller in diameter does better at holding. For a POB mould - that is end grain plywood - a hole is probably not necessary - end grain is all holes anyway. A pin probably should not be used as a nail on a scale model. The bulldozer - blunt force trauma - friction hold holding action is best avoided.
-
Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Your wooden kit progression - go big, or keep learning/practicing?
This is probably about as unique to each person as it gets.
Thinking about it - two of the broad groups probably are:
Those whose goal is to build an impressive model for display and then move on. They probably have an unrealistic preconception that wooden models are similar to plastic - just with different materials.
Those who are interested in ship modeling in general. No one particular vessel is their raison d'etre. Some of the first group become converts to this second one.
Starting small is a wise approach for both groups.
Most of the first group probably do not accomplish their original objective because this realm of ours is far more complicated and involved than imagined.
Any kind of rule of progression thru difficulty level would probably not mesh with their degree of patience.
For the second group, the journey is purpose.
Moving up to a difficulty that exceeds skills - probably attenuates most of the first group. For the second, it just means shelving the difficult project and selecting a less difficult one.
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