Jaager

Graham,
 
Oh fun,  a chance to fantasize!  and remember,
 
I would find it difficult not to over engineer (a thick layer of) sheet Styrofoam insulation and Tyvek.  In the past, I learned that you have to be VERY careful with:  if and where a vapor barrier is placed.  Do it wrong and you have a condensation trap and liquid water in closed spaces.  What works for a house, with a conditioned interior, does not work in a garage that is not heated or cooled.  Your structure could be both if you only heat or cool when in use.
 
I have a cousin who likes the sound of rain hitting a metal roof.  He built his house with one.  He discovered that a sheet steel roof will rust,  with one side at the outside and one side at a conditioned space.   I am thinking that if both sides are under outside conditions, no condensation - less propensity to rust.  The metal would essentially have to float above the structure with freedom for underside air circulation.   But, I guess with the nature of your structure, the fixed life span of asphalt shingles is not a problem.  The structure will probably go first.
 
For a sky light, if your budget is unlimited take a look at what Kalwall has available.

This is my own biased opinion.  I have no experience with restoration or with anything like The Antiques Road Show - except watching it.
 
What you have there is decorator kitsch.  It is not a ship model in any meaningful definition of the term.  It is something that sorta looks like a ship - from a distance, in dark light, thru a gauze curtain, if you squint.   That said,  it probably has value as its own thing.  I doubt that the value involves much money, but as time passes, what was once one of many copies will become more unique.  If collecting kitsch as kitsch ever becomes a thing, who knows?
 
If you are wealthy and have too much money, you may find someone willing to restore it.  It does not need to be anyone with experience with actual ship models, just with restoration in general.   What you pay will be lost money. 
 
If you restore it yourself, it will be time donated.  Consider it time spent doing something for fun.   You will want to return it to what it was.  There are no "improvements" to make it more ship-like that will not destroy any value it may have.  Clean what you can and replace any rotted fiber (lines and sails) with something that is close to what was the original material.  The goal is to make it as close to what it was as you can.
 
If you want an actual ship model, there is a thread at the top of this forum - For beginners - a Cautionary Tale  that will help with how to build your own. 
 

This is my own biased opinion.  I have no experience with restoration or with anything like The Antiques Road Show - except watching it.
 
What you have there is decorator kitsch.  It is not a ship model in any meaningful definition of the term.  It is something that sorta looks like a ship - from a distance, in dark light, thru a gauze curtain, if you squint.   That said,  it probably has value as its own thing.  I doubt that the value involves much money, but as time passes, what was once one of many copies will become more unique.  If collecting kitsch as kitsch ever becomes a thing, who knows?
 
If you are wealthy and have too much money, you may find someone willing to restore it.  It does not need to be anyone with experience with actual ship models, just with restoration in general.   What you pay will be lost money. 
 
If you restore it yourself, it will be time donated.  Consider it time spent doing something for fun.   You will want to return it to what it was.  There are no "improvements" to make it more ship-like that will not destroy any value it may have.  Clean what you can and replace any rotted fiber (lines and sails) with something that is close to what was the original material.  The goal is to make it as close to what it was as you can.
 
If you want an actual ship model, there is a thread at the top of this forum - For beginners - a Cautionary Tale  that will help with how to build your own. 
 

This is my own biased opinion.  I have no experience with restoration or with anything like The Antiques Road Show - except watching it.
 
What you have there is decorator kitsch.  It is not a ship model in any meaningful definition of the term.  It is something that sorta looks like a ship - from a distance, in dark light, thru a gauze curtain, if you squint.   That said,  it probably has value as its own thing.  I doubt that the value involves much money, but as time passes, what was once one of many copies will become more unique.  If collecting kitsch as kitsch ever becomes a thing, who knows?
 
If you are wealthy and have too much money, you may find someone willing to restore it.  It does not need to be anyone with experience with actual ship models, just with restoration in general.   What you pay will be lost money. 
 
If you restore it yourself, it will be time donated.  Consider it time spent doing something for fun.   You will want to return it to what it was.  There are no "improvements" to make it more ship-like that will not destroy any value it may have.  Clean what you can and replace any rotted fiber (lines and sails) with something that is close to what was the original material.  The goal is to make it as close to what it was as you can.
 
If you want an actual ship model, there is a thread at the top of this forum - For beginners - a Cautionary Tale  that will help with how to build your own. 
 

Graham,
 
Oh fun,  a chance to fantasize!  and remember,
 
I would find it difficult not to over engineer (a thick layer of) sheet Styrofoam insulation and Tyvek.  In the past, I learned that you have to be VERY careful with:  if and where a vapor barrier is placed.  Do it wrong and you have a condensation trap and liquid water in closed spaces.  What works for a house, with a conditioned interior, does not work in a garage that is not heated or cooled.  Your structure could be both if you only heat or cool when in use.
 
I have a cousin who likes the sound of rain hitting a metal roof.  He built his house with one.  He discovered that a sheet steel roof will rust,  with one side at the outside and one side at a conditioned space.   I am thinking that if both sides are under outside conditions, no condensation - less propensity to rust.  The metal would essentially have to float above the structure with freedom for underside air circulation.   But, I guess with the nature of your structure, the fixed life span of asphalt shingles is not a problem.  The structure will probably go first.
 
For a sky light, if your budget is unlimited take a look at what Kalwall has available.

Graham,
 
Oh fun,  a chance to fantasize!  and remember,
 
I would find it difficult not to over engineer (a thick layer of) sheet Styrofoam insulation and Tyvek.  In the past, I learned that you have to be VERY careful with:  if and where a vapor barrier is placed.  Do it wrong and you have a condensation trap and liquid water in closed spaces.  What works for a house, with a conditioned interior, does not work in a garage that is not heated or cooled.  Your structure could be both if you only heat or cool when in use.
 
I have a cousin who likes the sound of rain hitting a metal roof.  He built his house with one.  He discovered that a sheet steel roof will rust,  with one side at the outside and one side at a conditioned space.   I am thinking that if both sides are under outside conditions, no condensation - less propensity to rust.  The metal would essentially have to float above the structure with freedom for underside air circulation.   But, I guess with the nature of your structure, the fixed life span of asphalt shingles is not a problem.  The structure will probably go first.
 
For a sky light, if your budget is unlimited take a look at what Kalwall has available.

Graham,
 
Oh fun,  a chance to fantasize!  and remember,
 
I would find it difficult not to over engineer (a thick layer of) sheet Styrofoam insulation and Tyvek.  In the past, I learned that you have to be VERY careful with:  if and where a vapor barrier is placed.  Do it wrong and you have a condensation trap and liquid water in closed spaces.  What works for a house, with a conditioned interior, does not work in a garage that is not heated or cooled.  Your structure could be both if you only heat or cool when in use.
 
I have a cousin who likes the sound of rain hitting a metal roof.  He built his house with one.  He discovered that a sheet steel roof will rust,  with one side at the outside and one side at a conditioned space.   I am thinking that if both sides are under outside conditions, no condensation - less propensity to rust.  The metal would essentially have to float above the structure with freedom for underside air circulation.   But, I guess with the nature of your structure, the fixed life span of asphalt shingles is not a problem.  The structure will probably go first.
 
For a sky light, if your budget is unlimited take a look at what Kalwall has available.

The reason for mentioning the ethanol:water azeotrope is to point out that it is essentially impossible to have ethanol that is stronger than 95%.  Even if you started with an expensive lab reagent bottle of 100% ethanol, unless you used it in a sealed chamber with an atmosphere free of water vapor, the 100% ethanol would quickly return to 95% by extracting water from its atmosphere.
 
In the US, there is a significant Federal tax on drinking alcohol ( not as significant as it once was, because it is a fixed amount instead of a percentage of the alcohol value ).  If a poison is added to the ethanol to make it unsuited to ingest, there is no tax.  The common term for this is 'denatured' and its whole purpose is to avoid the tax.   Long ago, I think methanol was the additive.  Now I think the additive is an emetic agent. 
 
There used to be methanol available.  It is available as 100%.  The danger in using it is probably not worth any advantage.  The vapors can be inhaled and while ethanol is metabolized to acetaldehyde  and then acetic acid,  methanol goes to formaldehyde and formic acid - you don't want it.  Methanol also evaporates more quickly than ethanol.  This is not an advantage during application of shellac.  I had an idea that ~100% isopropanol (which is available, but is expensive)  would have a longer application time and not have the 5% water.  I do not think that the length of any additional time is practically significant.  The 5% water in ethanol is as the azeotrope.  That is a special state of water. Whatever straight water might do to shellac, the water in the azeotrope is not able to do it.  That water is owned by the ethanol.

Graham,
 
Oh fun,  a chance to fantasize!  and remember,
 
I would find it difficult not to over engineer (a thick layer of) sheet Styrofoam insulation and Tyvek.  In the past, I learned that you have to be VERY careful with:  if and where a vapor barrier is placed.  Do it wrong and you have a condensation trap and liquid water in closed spaces.  What works for a house, with a conditioned interior, does not work in a garage that is not heated or cooled.  Your structure could be both if you only heat or cool when in use.
 
I have a cousin who likes the sound of rain hitting a metal roof.  He built his house with one.  He discovered that a sheet steel roof will rust,  with one side at the outside and one side at a conditioned space.   I am thinking that if both sides are under outside conditions, no condensation - less propensity to rust.  The metal would essentially have to float above the structure with freedom for underside air circulation.   But, I guess with the nature of your structure, the fixed life span of asphalt shingles is not a problem.  The structure will probably go first.
 
For a sky light, if your budget is unlimited take a look at what Kalwall has available.

The reason for mentioning the ethanol:water azeotrope is to point out that it is essentially impossible to have ethanol that is stronger than 95%.  Even if you started with an expensive lab reagent bottle of 100% ethanol, unless you used it in a sealed chamber with an atmosphere free of water vapor, the 100% ethanol would quickly return to 95% by extracting water from its atmosphere.
 
In the US, there is a significant Federal tax on drinking alcohol ( not as significant as it once was, because it is a fixed amount instead of a percentage of the alcohol value ).  If a poison is added to the ethanol to make it unsuited to ingest, there is no tax.  The common term for this is 'denatured' and its whole purpose is to avoid the tax.   Long ago, I think methanol was the additive.  Now I think the additive is an emetic agent. 
 
There used to be methanol available.  It is available as 100%.  The danger in using it is probably not worth any advantage.  The vapors can be inhaled and while ethanol is metabolized to acetaldehyde  and then acetic acid,  methanol goes to formaldehyde and formic acid - you don't want it.  Methanol also evaporates more quickly than ethanol.  This is not an advantage during application of shellac.  I had an idea that ~100% isopropanol (which is available, but is expensive)  would have a longer application time and not have the 5% water.  I do not think that the length of any additional time is practically significant.  The 5% water in ethanol is as the azeotrope.  That is a special state of water. Whatever straight water might do to shellac, the water in the azeotrope is not able to do it.  That water is owned by the ethanol.

The reason for mentioning the ethanol:water azeotrope is to point out that it is essentially impossible to have ethanol that is stronger than 95%.  Even if you started with an expensive lab reagent bottle of 100% ethanol, unless you used it in a sealed chamber with an atmosphere free of water vapor, the 100% ethanol would quickly return to 95% by extracting water from its atmosphere.
 
In the US, there is a significant Federal tax on drinking alcohol ( not as significant as it once was, because it is a fixed amount instead of a percentage of the alcohol value ).  If a poison is added to the ethanol to make it unsuited to ingest, there is no tax.  The common term for this is 'denatured' and its whole purpose is to avoid the tax.   Long ago, I think methanol was the additive.  Now I think the additive is an emetic agent. 
 
There used to be methanol available.  It is available as 100%.  The danger in using it is probably not worth any advantage.  The vapors can be inhaled and while ethanol is metabolized to acetaldehyde  and then acetic acid,  methanol goes to formaldehyde and formic acid - you don't want it.  Methanol also evaporates more quickly than ethanol.  This is not an advantage during application of shellac.  I had an idea that ~100% isopropanol (which is available, but is expensive)  would have a longer application time and not have the 5% water.  I do not think that the length of any additional time is practically significant.  The 5% water in ethanol is as the azeotrope.  That is a special state of water. Whatever straight water might do to shellac, the water in the azeotrope is not able to do it.  That water is owned by the ethanol.

An old wood finishing book had instructions for French polish.  The instructions were to use a cloth pad that had a small quantity of Linseed oil in the middle which was then soaked with shellac.   The pad was to be rubbed on the wood surface with constant movement and a jet takeoff removal.  Otherwise the cloth will leave its weave pattern on the finish - which was to be only a wet layer.
 
I took this to mean that French polish is primarily shellac with a small admixture of polymerizing oil.   It seems to me that Tung oil could be used instead of Linseed oil. 

That was my first thought, but a comment here has me questioning that.  If shellac in flake form is subject to oxidation, then a shellac finish that is 200 years old should also be subject to it?
I would think adsorbing water into the flakes could be it, but then there is still the situation of why a shellac finish does not also adsorb water.  Or perhaps it does but the concentration of atmospheric water is too low to affect a flat surface.  Maybe the flakes have a higher surface to volume ratio?  Maybe the flakes can absorb water?
 
As for ethanol : water   the description of azeotrope for that mixture should explain why it is a very specific situation.

I use super blonde flakes.  A fresh batch dissolves fairly quickly.   Old flakes have a residue (a translucent gel) that never dissolves for me. 
 
Ethanol has a special affinity for water.  It is 95%:5% ethanol to water.  The bond is not covalent,  but it requires much more energy and effort to break than is possible with distillation.  One way is to distill from benzene.  Doing this in a closed atmosphere WILL yield 100% ethanol.  BUT, as soon as it is exposed to our atmosphere, it will pull water vapor in until it becomes 95:5 again.  I have not read anything to indicate that it will continue to pull in water beyond that concentration.  The ethanol will go to its gas phase if left in an open container.
 

The openings at port and starboard aft are to the quarter galleries.  They were small and mostly were officers' latrines. 
Where the captain's cabin was the width of a whole deck, I wonder why he would need two privies? 
 

That was my first thought, but a comment here has me questioning that.  If shellac in flake form is subject to oxidation, then a shellac finish that is 200 years old should also be subject to it?
I would think adsorbing water into the flakes could be it, but then there is still the situation of why a shellac finish does not also adsorb water.  Or perhaps it does but the concentration of atmospheric water is too low to affect a flat surface.  Maybe the flakes have a higher surface to volume ratio?  Maybe the flakes can absorb water?
 
As for ethanol : water   the description of azeotrope for that mixture should explain why it is a very specific situation.

The openings at port and starboard aft are to the quarter galleries.  They were small and mostly were officers' latrines. 
Where the captain's cabin was the width of a whole deck, I wonder why he would need two privies? 
 

The openings at port and starboard aft are to the quarter galleries.  They were small and mostly were officers' latrines. 
Where the captain's cabin was the width of a whole deck, I wonder why he would need two privies? 
 

That was my first thought, but a comment here has me questioning that.  If shellac in flake form is subject to oxidation, then a shellac finish that is 200 years old should also be subject to it?
I would think adsorbing water into the flakes could be it, but then there is still the situation of why a shellac finish does not also adsorb water.  Or perhaps it does but the concentration of atmospheric water is too low to affect a flat surface.  Maybe the flakes have a higher surface to volume ratio?  Maybe the flakes can absorb water?
 
As for ethanol : water   the description of azeotrope for that mixture should explain why it is a very specific situation.

The old time experts used to argue that visually, thinner than scale line was better than scale or thicker than scale.

We had one in the bathroom in the 1950's.  The heat source for the house was an on oil burning furnace under a grating in the hall.  More than one kid at the time 1"x1" or so grid pattern burns from falling on a red hot grate. 
That was a step up from a coal burning furnace that required blackgang work from an inhabitant.

It is a table saw.  It works the same way as an 8" or 10" saw.  For functional use and safety skills, an instruction manual for table saws in general is pretty important to read.   In general, with the smaller modeler's scale saws, the damage that it can do to human parts going where they should not is less, but you still do not want it.
 
As for the saw itself,  I do not know if the company itself is in business.  Even if you can get an illustrated parts list (IPL) it may not be of value if there is no manufacturer to supply them by a parts number.   I would guess that any parts subject to wear can be had from tool parts vendors.

It is a table saw.  It works the same way as an 8" or 10" saw.  For functional use and safety skills, an instruction manual for table saws in general is pretty important to read.   In general, with the smaller modeler's scale saws, the damage that it can do to human parts going where they should not is less, but you still do not want it.
 
As for the saw itself,  I do not know if the company itself is in business.  Even if you can get an illustrated parts list (IPL) it may not be of value if there is no manufacturer to supply them by a parts number.   I would guess that any parts subject to wear can be had from tool parts vendors.

I think of sanding sealer as being a thick product.  Useful on open pore wood like Black Walnut, Oak, and A finish plywood to fill the pores and give a smooth even finish.  Intended more for full size furiture.
 
Shellac is an excellent traditional finish.  It can be as thick or thin as you wish.  It is not good for applications where it can come in contact with water.  It hydrates and turns white.  It can be easily repaired, but do not use it to finish a coffee table. 
A shellac finish can be removed with alcohol.
The material can be preextracted and purified and comes as Orange (probably straight from the beetle) to Super Blonde - almost water clear.  The solvent is alcohol (methyl, ethyl, 2-propanol, probably propanol if you can find it).  You can buy it in flakes and make up your own solution as needed.  The more purified are the flakes, the lower the maximium concentration you can make.  The impurities increase solubilitiy in alcohol.  The more volatile is the alcohol (Me>Ethyl>Prop) the less working time if you are using a cloth for application.  Dilute shellac is a good first coat for most any other finish.  It is very compatible with other finishes.  French polish seems to be multiple layers of shellac applied with a cloth that has a bit of Linseed oil in the cloth.  I would guess that Tung oil or Walnut oil might work as well.

We had one in the bathroom in the 1950's.  The heat source for the house was an on oil burning furnace under a grating in the hall.  More than one kid at the time 1"x1" or so grid pattern burns from falling on a red hot grate. 
That was a step up from a coal burning furnace that required blackgang work from an inhabitant.