Jaager

It looks like a nice tool - however this falls into the "Not really needed modelling tools" category for me.
 
There are so many expensive modelling tools that just don't make the grade. As has been said there are so many ways to make this type of cut and basically its a levered razor blade.  It costs $175 ........wow..........add $300 and you can buy a Byrnes table saw.  Its 3 times the price and 100 times the tool. 

There is also a Chinese copy of the Chopper - for half its price - less well made - and probably not a licensed version, but the original may not have been an original enough construct to gain legal protection.   
 
For the same lower price, there is a HF powered version.  This machine does the job, except that the safety ON trigger wants to be jammed ON for it to work in a practical way,  The table to the right of the blade is not really there and needs to be added - scrap acrylic sheet - a 3/4" plywood base, screws and spacers.  The blade is a raw amputation device waiting to happen - the housing for the handle makes dealing with the cutoff pieces all but impossible and the spinning blade throws the freed product into the air behind the machine or into the vertical support for the hinge.  
 
Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  
 
We do not really want to use Basswood for such small parts.  The cutter is essentially a razor blade. Getting a fixed blade thru hardwood of any real thickness without a hydraulic press force and needing to sharpen  the edge every few cuts to avoid crush of fibers are compromises inherent to the design.

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Based on my reading,  The USN at the time had 3 classes for Sloop-of-War.  From a functional aspect, the only important difference was in senior officer pay,  place on the promotion list, and who was junior and who had the final say.  Mostly a distinction with no significant difference.
 
I think corvette may have some minor technical differentiation in the French navy and perhaps the RN, I am not sure.  But mostly, I think it is because corvette is easier to type and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd class nonsense can be avoided.  The "-" business is just silly.

In reference to the last question in the title:  Am I alone in this?
While it works about as well as can be wished for iron and steel,  plastic is |absolutely| unconvincing and inappropriate in representing wood. 
So the answer is: No.

Enamel paints use organic solvents that are not misable with water.    If you are spraying enamel paint,  the condensed water vapor that increased pressure produced would probably make a mess of your paint application. 
 
The most common class of model paint now is acrylic  which uses water as a solvent.  A slug of water may dilute pigment concentration,  but it may be easier to just  direct the nozzle to a piece of scrap cardboard until the water clears - if it appears.  The existing trap would probably cover you anyway.

I also have one and it is the tool that best does the job of fairing the frames in the hold of the several tools that seem like they could. 
Would a lighter touch produce less wear on the gear?  The tool will produce impressive volumes of dust and the job being done is a finesse sort that I prefer to do inside on a comfortable chair.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

Ceiling insulation.  
It is not likely that the back work room will ever used for heavy machines, so under the concrete pour having a layer of 2" or more of solid foam sheet insulation  be between the ground and the cement.  makes heating easier.   probably a wash in summer since the 52 degree layer is a lot farther down.   
I would probably be happiest if all three outside walls had windows and the long one was more window than solid.  
For about six months of the year, having fresh air would make it less claustrophobic.
It is not really living space so looks are irrelevant so at night - in winter - instead of  Window Quilt barriers,  a push fit of solid foam sheet pieces will save heat loss. 

I second Bob's rec. of having 220V.   It is expensive to retro fit.  and again with Bob over engineer the amps. 
Any proper 14" bandsaw will need 220V.   You being your own sawmill = big boy bandsaw.

You are missing a real opportunity in not taking full advantage of this separate room.
Put your shop vac in there.  Add a radio controlled On/Off.  The 4" or 2.5" hole in the wall for the vac hose can also take the power cord for the vac.  In place of the vac under the bench, put a Dust Deputy cyclone trap -  or whatever brand or type you like.   A vac with no noise is a luxury that most of us can only dream about.   My only annoyance with the Dust Deputy is that the 5 gal bottom trap does not play nice if a kitchen 22 gal plastic trash bag is in it.  Dumping a full 5 gal bucket into a plastic bag is messy - an outdoors job that gets flocculant mess everywhere - no matter how tightly closed the bag is during the dump.

If it just going to be for ship modeling,  a bench top that is robust enough to stand up to a ball-pene hammer or need to use a full size hand saw is not likely to be necessary.
 
Will you be always standing or sitting on a bar stool?  If yes, then knee room is not a factor.
 
Bench top depth is very helpful.  Determine how far back you can comfortably reach and make it at least that deep.
A 4"-6" high back splash helps  stop loss over the back. 
110V outlets that are above back splash height - and more of them than you think you will need.  If you want to splurge, make each of them have their own individual ON/OFF rocker switch.
 
Longer is better.
 
Drop down - foot locking castors - 4 of them  - the back ones - give a thought to how to get at them - if you do not have them, there will likely come a time when you wish that you did.
 
A provision for shop vac hoses makes life easier.
Life is easier if the machine in use is the only one on the bench top.
Strong sliding out shelves under the bench is a handy place to store them.  Being able to lift them straight down or up allows for easier storage. 
There is significant weight so the shelf support strength may make this impractical.  But in any case,  being able to easily park tools not in use under the bench is helpful  
For my Byrnes saw, I bought a wooden box from Michaels to store all of the wrenches, blades, etc.  I PVAed a wooden block under the lid and drilled hole to hold all the the needed Allen wrenches.  No digging for the often needed tools.
 
Even though you may never have a need to hand plane the edge of a 6' -8' board,  an under the bench top vise has uses.  A quick release  feature may be frivolous - but going economy leads to frustration.   Poorly made one tend to rack when they are tightened.   
I bought a 2x12 plank and cut it up to be a series of bases for various full size tools that are usually fixed to the bench top.
A grinder,  a machinist's vise,  a bare one for pounding on.  an old B&D drill press that is actually powered by a hand drill motor - it is an inheritance.  all are occasional tools.   I used lag screws to attach a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 at a right angle under the front of the 12" deck so that the under the bench vise could hold everything as though it was directly bolted to the bench top.
 
Under the top drawers - I used wire basket rectangles - for sandpaper sheets and big boxes holding small boxes of screws.

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Based on my reading,  The USN at the time had 3 classes for Sloop-of-War.  From a functional aspect, the only important difference was in senior officer pay,  place on the promotion list, and who was junior and who had the final say.  Mostly a distinction with no significant difference.
 
I think corvette may have some minor technical differentiation in the French navy and perhaps the RN, I am not sure.  But mostly, I think it is because corvette is easier to type and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd class nonsense can be avoided.  The "-" business is just silly.

Enamel paints use organic solvents that are not misable with water.    If you are spraying enamel paint,  the condensed water vapor that increased pressure produced would probably make a mess of your paint application. 
 
The most common class of model paint now is acrylic  which uses water as a solvent.  A slug of water may dilute pigment concentration,  but it may be easier to just  direct the nozzle to a piece of scrap cardboard until the water clears - if it appears.  The existing trap would probably cover you anyway.

Based on my reading,  The USN at the time had 3 classes for Sloop-of-War.  From a functional aspect, the only important difference was in senior officer pay,  place on the promotion list, and who was junior and who had the final say.  Mostly a distinction with no significant difference.
 
I think corvette may have some minor technical differentiation in the French navy and perhaps the RN, I am not sure.  But mostly, I think it is because corvette is easier to type and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd class nonsense can be avoided.  The "-" business is just silly.

Ceiling insulation.  
It is not likely that the back work room will ever used for heavy machines, so under the concrete pour having a layer of 2" or more of solid foam sheet insulation  be between the ground and the cement.  makes heating easier.   probably a wash in summer since the 52 degree layer is a lot farther down.   
I would probably be happiest if all three outside walls had windows and the long one was more window than solid.  
For about six months of the year, having fresh air would make it less claustrophobic.
It is not really living space so looks are irrelevant so at night - in winter - instead of  Window Quilt barriers,  a push fit of solid foam sheet pieces will save heat loss. 

Ceiling insulation.  
It is not likely that the back work room will ever used for heavy machines, so under the concrete pour having a layer of 2" or more of solid foam sheet insulation  be between the ground and the cement.  makes heating easier.   probably a wash in summer since the 52 degree layer is a lot farther down.   
I would probably be happiest if all three outside walls had windows and the long one was more window than solid.  
For about six months of the year, having fresh air would make it less claustrophobic.
It is not really living space so looks are irrelevant so at night - in winter - instead of  Window Quilt barriers,  a push fit of solid foam sheet pieces will save heat loss. 

The warped piece of plywood is telling you what shape it "wants" to take to be in equilibrium.  It can be flattened but it will be recidivant.
 
1. -Punt.
Replace it.   Quick check  Home Depot has  1/4" x 2' x2'  Poplar faced or Maple faced for $9.  A fret saw will allow you to free the new mold by hand.   Doing this will demonstrate that you are more independent from the kit maker than you realize.
 
2.   scab it with straight supports on either side.   something like 1/4" x 1/4".   two parallel rows  -  PVA - and using bamboo skewers as dowels.
The tricky part is cutting the openings in the central spine for the supports and then gluing it all.  What with the dowel insertion  and the clamping, the repaired mold will have to be applied to the spine before the two or so molds on either side of it.

I second Bob's rec. of having 220V.   It is expensive to retro fit.  and again with Bob over engineer the amps. 
Any proper 14" bandsaw will need 220V.   You being your own sawmill = big boy bandsaw.

You are missing a real opportunity in not taking full advantage of this separate room.
Put your shop vac in there.  Add a radio controlled On/Off.  The 4" or 2.5" hole in the wall for the vac hose can also take the power cord for the vac.  In place of the vac under the bench, put a Dust Deputy cyclone trap -  or whatever brand or type you like.   A vac with no noise is a luxury that most of us can only dream about.   My only annoyance with the Dust Deputy is that the 5 gal bottom trap does not play nice if a kitchen 22 gal plastic trash bag is in it.  Dumping a full 5 gal bucket into a plastic bag is messy - an outdoors job that gets flocculant mess everywhere - no matter how tightly closed the bag is during the dump.