Jaager

I was going under the impression that the unit in question would be a UK only deal.
Bob, cut thru my knot and jumped on the most simple answer - just save the head and attach it to a regular soldering iron handle.
That would make the plug on the sale unit not relevant.  It would also open it up to the US.
 
I was looking at  Romex at Home Depot, since a recent post was about how expensive a coil has become.  The 220V is  4 wire.  The plug on Ebay is two prong and round.  I was trying to get my head around a match up of 4 wire Romex with that plug.  I also wonder if a kid who stuck a metal object on into a 220V plug would have a more interesting experience than a US kid who did it with a 110V?

I was going under the impression that the unit in question would be a UK only deal.
Bob, cut thru my knot and jumped on the most simple answer - just save the head and attach it to a regular soldering iron handle.
That would make the plug on the sale unit not relevant.  It would also open it up to the US.
 
I was looking at  Romex at Home Depot, since a recent post was about how expensive a coil has become.  The 220V is  4 wire.  The plug on Ebay is two prong and round.  I was trying to get my head around a match up of 4 wire Romex with that plug.  I also wonder if a kid who stuck a metal object on into a 220V plug would have a more interesting experience than a US kid who did it with a 110V?

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

After nearly 8 years of occassional search in various archives and libraries for a digital copy, I have finally been able to locate a PDF version of the subject treatise from about 1685 by Edward Battine.  For those interested in the evolution of ship building and design this would be a nice addition to the collection.
 
Battine, Edward. 1685. The Method of Building, Rigging, Apparelling, & Furnishing His Majesties Ships of Warr, According to Their Rates. https://collections.library.yale.edu/catalog/17268860.   At 60mb the document is a bit too large for me to upload here.   Enjoy!  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Enamel paints use organic solvents that are not misable with water.    If you are spraying enamel paint,  the condensed water vapor that increased pressure produced would probably make a mess of your paint application. 
 
The most common class of model paint now is acrylic  which uses water as a solvent.  A slug of water may dilute pigment concentration,  but it may be easier to just  direct the nozzle to a piece of scrap cardboard until the water clears - if it appears.  The existing trap would probably cover you anyway.

Phantom may be worth a reevaluation for what it is, instead of what it is not.
 
Phantom has an elegant hull.  The curves are appealing.  The vessel itself is spare but the overall presentation has a beauty to it.  
I remember it as coming as a carved hull in both 1/4" and 1/8" scale.   If it has a copper bottom,  using actual metal at either scale would probably ruin the elegance.  Tissue paper or just paint  or  - a planking over the solid using a veneer of an appropriate species of wood?
A small vessel at 1/8th scale is more an expression of a skill at miniature scale. A lot of the materials that we use at larger scales begin to lose translation ability at 1/8th and artful faking begins to be needed. 

Phantom may be worth a reevaluation for what it is, instead of what it is not.
 
Phantom has an elegant hull.  The curves are appealing.  The vessel itself is spare but the overall presentation has a beauty to it.  
I remember it as coming as a carved hull in both 1/4" and 1/8" scale.   If it has a copper bottom,  using actual metal at either scale would probably ruin the elegance.  Tissue paper or just paint  or  - a planking over the solid using a veneer of an appropriate species of wood?
A small vessel at 1/8th scale is more an expression of a skill at miniature scale. A lot of the materials that we use at larger scales begin to lose translation ability at 1/8th and artful faking begins to be needed. 

Phantom may be worth a reevaluation for what it is, instead of what it is not.
 
Phantom has an elegant hull.  The curves are appealing.  The vessel itself is spare but the overall presentation has a beauty to it.  
I remember it as coming as a carved hull in both 1/4" and 1/8" scale.   If it has a copper bottom,  using actual metal at either scale would probably ruin the elegance.  Tissue paper or just paint  or  - a planking over the solid using a veneer of an appropriate species of wood?
A small vessel at 1/8th scale is more an expression of a skill at miniature scale. A lot of the materials that we use at larger scales begin to lose translation ability at 1/8th and artful faking begins to be needed. 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

In reference to the last question in the title:  Am I alone in this?
While it works about as well as can be wished for iron and steel,  plastic is |absolutely| unconvincing and inappropriate in representing wood. 
So the answer is: No.

There is also a Chinese copy of the Chopper - for half its price - less well made - and probably not a licensed version, but the original may not have been an original enough construct to gain legal protection.   
 
For the same lower price, there is a HF powered version.  This machine does the job, except that the safety ON trigger wants to be jammed ON for it to work in a practical way,  The table to the right of the blade is not really there and needs to be added - scrap acrylic sheet - a 3/4" plywood base, screws and spacers.  The blade is a raw amputation device waiting to happen - the housing for the handle makes dealing with the cutoff pieces all but impossible and the spinning blade throws the freed product into the air behind the machine or into the vertical support for the hinge.  
 
Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  
 
We do not really want to use Basswood for such small parts.  The cutter is essentially a razor blade. Getting a fixed blade thru hardwood of any real thickness without a hydraulic press force and needing to sharpen  the edge every few cuts to avoid crush of fibers are compromises inherent to the design.

There is also a Chinese copy of the Chopper - for half its price - less well made - and probably not a licensed version, but the original may not have been an original enough construct to gain legal protection.   
 
For the same lower price, there is a HF powered version.  This machine does the job, except that the safety ON trigger wants to be jammed ON for it to work in a practical way,  The table to the right of the blade is not really there and needs to be added - scrap acrylic sheet - a 3/4" plywood base, screws and spacers.  The blade is a raw amputation device waiting to happen - the housing for the handle makes dealing with the cutoff pieces all but impossible and the spinning blade throws the freed product into the air behind the machine or into the vertical support for the hinge.  
 
Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  
 
We do not really want to use Basswood for such small parts.  The cutter is essentially a razor blade. Getting a fixed blade thru hardwood of any real thickness without a hydraulic press force and needing to sharpen  the edge every few cuts to avoid crush of fibers are compromises inherent to the design.

It looks like a nice tool - however this falls into the "Not really needed modelling tools" category for me.
 
There are so many expensive modelling tools that just don't make the grade. As has been said there are so many ways to make this type of cut and basically its a levered razor blade.  It costs $175 ........wow..........add $300 and you can buy a Byrnes table saw.  Its 3 times the price and 100 times the tool. 

There is also a Chinese copy of the Chopper - for half its price - less well made - and probably not a licensed version, but the original may not have been an original enough construct to gain legal protection.   
 
For the same lower price, there is a HF powered version.  This machine does the job, except that the safety ON trigger wants to be jammed ON for it to work in a practical way,  The table to the right of the blade is not really there and needs to be added - scrap acrylic sheet - a 3/4" plywood base, screws and spacers.  The blade is a raw amputation device waiting to happen - the housing for the handle makes dealing with the cutoff pieces all but impossible and the spinning blade throws the freed product into the air behind the machine or into the vertical support for the hinge.  
 
Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  
 
We do not really want to use Basswood for such small parts.  The cutter is essentially a razor blade. Getting a fixed blade thru hardwood of any real thickness without a hydraulic press force and needing to sharpen  the edge every few cuts to avoid crush of fibers are compromises inherent to the design.

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Do yourself a favor and read this ASAP:        https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/
 
In the spirit of a scientific thought experiment, I propose the following:
 
It is true that more than a few have begun with a Victory kit (or SotS or Constitution) and managed a successful completion.  But I seriously doubt that any one of them would have felt the need to ask the question that you did.   The self assured arrogance or whatever personality traits that are required to carry them past the initial intimidating barrier and all the many subsequent ones on to a finish are the mental tools that would also keep them from even considering asking anyone else about the wisdom of their choice.
 
Starting with a monster and finishing it is a infrequent occurrence.   For these most popular of ship model kit subjects, the number that have been barely or even never been started vastly,vastly out number the number taken to completion. 
 
If you have no background in miniature wood working,  if plastic kits are your only experience, then you would do well to spend time and imagination reading a lot of kit build logs.   Plastic is a separate skill set for skills beyond research and painting.
 
This is a new world.  It is broad enough to engage several lifetimes, but not impossibly open ended.  Nothing else will expose you to the technology - the entire technology - of the time period of a chosen subject.  
 
 

Based on my reading,  The USN at the time had 3 classes for Sloop-of-War.  From a functional aspect, the only important difference was in senior officer pay,  place on the promotion list, and who was junior and who had the final say.  Mostly a distinction with no significant difference.
 
I think corvette may have some minor technical differentiation in the French navy and perhaps the RN, I am not sure.  But mostly, I think it is because corvette is easier to type and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd class nonsense can be avoided.  The "-" business is just silly.

In reference to the last question in the title:  Am I alone in this?
While it works about as well as can be wished for iron and steel,  plastic is |absolutely| unconvincing and inappropriate in representing wood. 
So the answer is: No.

Enamel paints use organic solvents that are not misable with water.    If you are spraying enamel paint,  the condensed water vapor that increased pressure produced would probably make a mess of your paint application. 
 
The most common class of model paint now is acrylic  which uses water as a solvent.  A slug of water may dilute pigment concentration,  but it may be easier to just  direct the nozzle to a piece of scrap cardboard until the water clears - if it appears.  The existing trap would probably cover you anyway.

I also have one and it is the tool that best does the job of fairing the frames in the hold of the several tools that seem like they could. 
Would a lighter touch produce less wear on the gear?  The tool will produce impressive volumes of dust and the job being done is a finesse sort that I prefer to do inside on a comfortable chair.

The TX is 1/3HP,  has a speed range of 500-15,000
This offers more power and control in the low range.  I do not think that 30,000 RPM is a wood thing.
 
I have desk top because I want to have the cutter moving as it comes at the wood.
I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press, because I want the drill bit to be on the drill site- (awl made starter hole) before I start the spin.   There are two stage speed controllers - so that once you have a favorite speed - it is not lost when turning the motor off.
 
Both of the main ones?   
StewMac has accessories  that require a hand piece that they supply -  course threads at the tip.
Two style router tables -   The high end one I mounted as a table to cut a rabbet.
There is also a block with 90 degree and 45 degree hand piece holders -  to vise mount the tool.
I think it is the thinner hand piece, so that if you do not mind the threads for hand held work, the Foredom sold one is not needed.
 
which ever one the hand pieces you buy require?
 
get the bench mount-   The bale does not cost much, so you can buy that just in case.
I bought a fold down shelf bracket  to hold the bale.   If there is a wall close behind your bench, this works.  There are hold along the support so there is adjustment.   The brackets come in pairs, so if both are mounted, you will have L/R options.
 
My problem with the 90 degree adapter is the it extends out too far.   The main job that I was after is fairing the frames inside the hull.   What I really want is a 45 degree tool mount and that seems to be a unicorn.
 
I think that I will find a belt sander to be a "it seemed like a good idea at the time" tool that may not be engineered for our sort of loads.
 
The drill press is surprisingly robust.  I had the money to burn, but as long as my DRL 3000 holds on, it will be a backup.  The hand pieces are designed for side loads, so the drill press could be a safe mill for the sort of wood milling that we do.  But then, there would have to be an XY table and a vise and the back clearance is tight.

Ceiling insulation.  
It is not likely that the back work room will ever used for heavy machines, so under the concrete pour having a layer of 2" or more of solid foam sheet insulation  be between the ground and the cement.  makes heating easier.   probably a wash in summer since the 52 degree layer is a lot farther down.   
I would probably be happiest if all three outside walls had windows and the long one was more window than solid.  
For about six months of the year, having fresh air would make it less claustrophobic.
It is not really living space so looks are irrelevant so at night - in winter - instead of  Window Quilt barriers,  a push fit of solid foam sheet pieces will save heat loss. 

I second Bob's rec. of having 220V.   It is expensive to retro fit.  and again with Bob over engineer the amps. 
Any proper 14" bandsaw will need 220V.   You being your own sawmill = big boy bandsaw.