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Ultimation Model Slicer Anyone?

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Depends on your budget. I have both. The Ultimation has a longer handle for more leverage when making the cut. Is more accurate. Is better at making angled cuts, etc. However the Chopper does an adequate job and how often do you need to make angled cuts. I prefer the Ultimation but the Chopper did the job OK for the last 4 years I've had it.

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There is also a Chinese copy of the Chopper - for half its price - less well made - and probably not a licensed version, but the original may not have been an original enough construct to gain legal protection.   


For the same lower price, there is a HF powered version.  This machine does the job, except that the safety ON trigger wants to be jammed ON for it to work in a practical way,  The table to the right of the blade is not really there and needs to be added - scrap acrylic sheet - a 3/4" plywood base, screws and spacers.  The blade is a raw amputation device waiting to happen - the housing for the handle makes dealing with the cutoff pieces all but impossible and the spinning blade throws the freed product into the air behind the machine or into the vertical support for the hinge.  


Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  


We do not really want to use Basswood for such small parts.  The cutter is essentially a razor blade. Getting a fixed blade thru hardwood of any real thickness without a hydraulic press force and needing to sharpen  the edge every few cuts to avoid crush of fibers are compromises inherent to the design.

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It looks like a nice tool - however this falls into the "Not really needed modelling tools" category for me.


There are so many expensive modelling tools that just don't make the grade. As has been said there are so many ways to make this type of cut and basically its a levered razor blade.  It costs $175 ........wow..........add $300 and you can buy a Byrnes table saw.  Its 3 times the price and 100 times the tool. 

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Also an 'unnecessary' tool for me.  These types of cutters use a 'V' profile cut (even when sharp) due to the razor blade cutting edge, leaving an oblique end profile that needs squaring for a good fit.  I got rid of mine a long ago and simply hand or power saw cut 'fat' of the line, then touch up with my disc sander to the line.





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On 9/24/2022 at 1:41 AM, Jaager said:

Sometimes a miter box and saw or the frustrating Dobson seems a better way.  


On 9/24/2022 at 7:42 AM, No Idea said:

It costs $175 ........wow..........add $300 and you can buy a Byrnes table saw.  Its 3 times the price and 100 times the tool. 

Right on! Truer words were never spoken.



Excel 55666 - Mitre Box w/ K5 Handle and Saw Blade - Midwest Model Railroad (midwestmodelrr.com)


This will do just fine for $17.50 and you're about $150 or 25% of the way to getting your Byrnes "Jim Saw" with the sliding miter table!




Byrnes Model Machines - Thickness Sander


Come on now. You know you really want one. You know everybody eventually gets one and then wonders why it took them so long to getting around to it. You know it will pay for itself over time in savings over the cost of pre-cut strip wood and it's accurate to a thousandth of an inch. Set aside a few bucks a month and you'll be able to buy one without the purser ever missing it from the sugar jar.  :D 


See the source image


Go on! Don't be a wimp! Show some spunk! JUST DO IT!

Edited by Bob Cleek
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Unless your scratch building, doing other woodworking with it (such as making small boxes, etc.), or using it to replace the wood strips that came with your kit with something of better quality the Byrnes saw is a little bit of an overkill. Still, I personally couldn't resist buying one.  But I still find my Ultimation or Chopper more convenient to work with 80% of the time.

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