Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 2nd Layer of Planking Glueing. Thinned or Standard wood Glue?
OK. Expressing my philosophy on wood to wood PVA bonding:
I use Titebond II. If it is getting thick, it is time to get a fresh supply.
At this time and for a while now, I make a puddle on a piece of Cut-Rite wax paper.
I use miniature foam stick applicator. Round toothpicks and whatever size foam piece will do the coverage I need.
The foam is the squishy packing foam - not the peanut type, Duco works well to weld the handle to the foam.
I do a just wet coat on both meeting surfaces. Any squeeze-out means you left too much.
If I want a strong bond, and for some strange reason - and in a very rare situation - I felt the need to dilute PVA - 95% concentration and never less than 90% is as low as I would go.
I do use 50:50 dilution of pH 7 Lineco to set linen yarn twisted to rope while it is hanging lead sinkers to set. It reduces the fuzz and unraveling.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Dremel rotary tool?
For a kit, a rotary tool is probably mostly a tool looking for a job.
A pin vise can probably cut any needed holes.
For scratch POF, and especially if the now out of favor trunnels for hull planking is your want, a rotary tool is a necessity.
But more is the pity for those just starting - the best for this - the smaller size cordless models - are no longer for sale- i.e 8050 or MiniMite.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Cleaning stained wood
Thinking about what Phil wrote, - I lost an elderly dog to blasto - and the interior being infected and a source of future problems, what with the concentration of fungal invasion being higher than ambient, I was thinking a gas to kill it.
A gas that was an active fungicide would also probably be bad for model components.
If dormant fungus or fungal spores are not anaerobes then a significant time in a 100% N2 chamber might turn the fungal infection part into inert organic material.
What about the bloom on the guns? Is it just dried rain? Is it an outgrowth and attached?
If it is a fallen powder, a simple, but tedious, mechanical removal may be the way.
It is essentially maleficence for a museum not to case a ship model.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Dremel rotary tool?
For a kit, a rotary tool is probably mostly a tool looking for a job.
A pin vise can probably cut any needed holes.
For scratch POF, and especially if the now out of favor trunnels for hull planking is your want, a rotary tool is a necessity.
But more is the pity for those just starting - the best for this - the smaller size cordless models - are no longer for sale- i.e 8050 or MiniMite.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Cleaning stained wood
Thinking about what Phil wrote, - I lost an elderly dog to blasto - and the interior being infected and a source of future problems, what with the concentration of fungal invasion being higher than ambient, I was thinking a gas to kill it.
A gas that was an active fungicide would also probably be bad for model components.
If dormant fungus or fungal spores are not anaerobes then a significant time in a 100% N2 chamber might turn the fungal infection part into inert organic material.
What about the bloom on the guns? Is it just dried rain? Is it an outgrowth and attached?
If it is a fallen powder, a simple, but tedious, mechanical removal may be the way.
It is essentially maleficence for a museum not to case a ship model.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from wool132 in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from Peanut6 in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in replacement X-ACTO blade #30
The blade can last longer than might be imagined.
It can be given a coat of Renaissance Wax to reduce rust.
A frequent stropping on leather with gold or green or red compd will keep it sharp. Just do not hit a nail.
If you find that the work that a small plane does is to your liking, do yourself a favor and go from cheap and cheesy to quality. That is, check out Lee Valley Tools for their Veritas series.
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Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Yellow Ochre versus Gold Paint for ship's carvings.
I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint. I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain. A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Gorilla Glue Removal
The company that manufactures Gorilla "glue" uses Gorilla as the name for just about every type of adhesive that is available to the general public - including CA, PVA, rubber cement,....
If the original Gorilla glue is the subject of your inquiry - it is a water activated polyurethane.
Once cured (fully polymerized) from what I can discover, a very sharp chisel is about to only way to reverse it.
The lack of a reverse gear as well as the cure behavior (I think it foams) has this adhesive as one that is a very very bad choice for anything involving scale modeling.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Gorilla Glue Removal
The company that manufactures Gorilla "glue" uses Gorilla as the name for just about every type of adhesive that is available to the general public - including CA, PVA, rubber cement,....
If the original Gorilla glue is the subject of your inquiry - it is a water activated polyurethane.
Once cured (fully polymerized) from what I can discover, a very sharp chisel is about to only way to reverse it.
The lack of a reverse gear as well as the cure behavior (I think it foams) has this adhesive as one that is a very very bad choice for anything involving scale modeling.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Gorilla Glue Removal
The company that manufactures Gorilla "glue" uses Gorilla as the name for just about every type of adhesive that is available to the general public - including CA, PVA, rubber cement,....
If the original Gorilla glue is the subject of your inquiry - it is a water activated polyurethane.
Once cured (fully polymerized) from what I can discover, a very sharp chisel is about to only way to reverse it.
The lack of a reverse gear as well as the cure behavior (I think it foams) has this adhesive as one that is a very very bad choice for anything involving scale modeling.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in electric / battery pin nailer
Brute force nailing has worked for a long time in full size construction. This is usually done with softwood that has enough air space to mostly accommodate the increase in volume. This strictly friction hold is probably not wise with hardwood at full size and a totally bad idea at miniature scale.
I suggest first drilling a hole with a diameter just slightly less than the diameter of the brass nail. A test will determine just how much less.
If the receptor is plywood, it is likely end grain is involved. End grain makes for a very poor bond.
With plywood molds, the outer edge may act more reliably if it is seriously primed with PVA ( with no excess ) a few days before anything else is done to it.
If the tool applying force requires serious force from you, the receptor hole is too small.
If the nail wants to bend, the receptor hole is too small.
If an electrical hammer tool is anything but overkill, the receptor hole is too small.
The cylinder type push tool is a poor choice.
The MM plyer push pin tool is a better choice.
A good quality curved Kelly hemostat is a better choice.
If the nail is to remain, dipping the nail in 90% PVA - for hardwood or 100% PVA - for plywood may work in your favor.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in electric / battery pin nailer
Brute force nailing has worked for a long time in full size construction. This is usually done with softwood that has enough air space to mostly accommodate the increase in volume. This strictly friction hold is probably not wise with hardwood at full size and a totally bad idea at miniature scale.
I suggest first drilling a hole with a diameter just slightly less than the diameter of the brass nail. A test will determine just how much less.
If the receptor is plywood, it is likely end grain is involved. End grain makes for a very poor bond.
With plywood molds, the outer edge may act more reliably if it is seriously primed with PVA ( with no excess ) a few days before anything else is done to it.
If the tool applying force requires serious force from you, the receptor hole is too small.
If the nail wants to bend, the receptor hole is too small.
If an electrical hammer tool is anything but overkill, the receptor hole is too small.
The cylinder type push tool is a poor choice.
The MM plyer push pin tool is a better choice.
A good quality curved Kelly hemostat is a better choice.
If the nail is to remain, dipping the nail in 90% PVA - for hardwood or 100% PVA - for plywood may work in your favor.
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Jaager reacted to mtaylor in Making ship drawings in the seventeenth century Dutch Republic.
Regarding "absolutes" in science... I remember my physics professor made a statement that I remember well. "There are no absolutes... now is the speed of light being the fastest possible speed in space?". The answer was "At this time, yes. But maybe not in the future if someone discovers how to go faster.".
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Making ship drawings in the seventeenth century Dutch Republic.
I think a great deal of misunderstanding can be avoided if the terms in use on this subject have precise and agreed upon definitions.
I suspect that I am not alone in having tunnel vision. What I mean is that while it is nice to have plans of the internal parts and all, the only plans of real significance for historical authenticity are hull shape lines plans.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Making ship drawings in the seventeenth century Dutch Republic.
I think a great deal of misunderstanding can be avoided if the terms in use on this subject have precise and agreed upon definitions.
I suspect that I am not alone in having tunnel vision. What I mean is that while it is nice to have plans of the internal parts and all, the only plans of real significance for historical authenticity are hull shape lines plans.
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Jaager got a reaction from DaveBaxt in Wood sealer/ Wood primer
You found contradictory information because this subject is more about opinion and what you are used to than it is a set formula.
It is also difficult to follow because there is zero discipline exercised with the definitions for the words.
If we could have a common agreed definition for sealer a useful one would be "a thick clear finish material that contains small solid particles whose function is to fill open pores in the wood species that have them, interact with the finish material so as to be translucent, and leave a glass smooth finish."
It is better to never use a species of wood that would need a sealer if the wood is to be clear finished.
If you are going to paint the wood, and it is an open pore species (that is being used anyway) a filler then sanded smooth will do what a sealer does.
A primer reduces the number of coats of paint needed on a raw surface. If you are painting a room with an expensive paint, a low cost primer coat may save you money. This factor is not a significant one at model scales. But multiple thin coats may serve better than one thick one.
A traditional first coat over raw wood is 50% diluted shellac. It is compatible with just about any follow on material. It is easy to apply.
Maybe not necessary, but no real downside.
For most of us, a sealer is probably best reserved for those building full size furniture.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Lights (windows) framing material
If a thickness that is almost thin enough to read thru is needed, a very sharp plane may get you a semi thick shaving.
A knife and steel straight edge for the other dimension.
A compatible wood species would increase the probability of success. No loss to kerf, either.
You would need to research the type of plane that does this. I expect it will need a high quality plane and a whole lot of practice.
Maybe White Pine, because the examples of long wide curls from a plane seem to come from Pine.
Holly, because it bends so well may be an option.
Advantage Lumber still shows the low quality, non-white stock at $6.00/BF and some stock that is more clear for $12.00/BF.
Holly that has been infected by Blue Mold is just as sound as normal Holly, it is just blue or grey.
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Jaager got a reaction from Bob Cleek in CA-glue for ratlines?
Various protein based adhesives were pretty much all that was available before WWI. There are hide glues that are still commercially available. They probably rate more consideration than we give them.
I wonder if shellac would serve as a rigging fixative? The less extracted grades of flakes - dark auburn and amber may even turn inappropriate bleached running rigging into a more accurate straw color. They would be easy to apply and have an effective reverse gear.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Lurked for a few weeks. Here's my intro
Given your space limitations, if the hook gets firmly set and the scratch bug bites you there is an ultimate target that might fit.
That target is miniature scale large vessels. The necessary skills veer heavily toward the artistic.
Our Emblem ®
