Jaager

The ASA rules up to 1903  call for both deck planks and hull planks to be "the greatest length possible".
I suspect that by the turn of the 20th century, a significant portion of the old growth timber had been felled in eastern North America..
The mid 19th century US Navy wanted  deck planks to be 40 feet long.  The favored species was (I think) Yellow Pine.  It is not a wood that is seen much today - maybe some is recycled - everything usable was harvested - it is a species that is rock hard, it liked to turn a nail - not at all a soft Softwood.  I think that some has been replanted, but without consulting my Silviculture references, I suspect a species that hard and tall would be fairly slow growing.  As desirable as it would be, I suspect that a southern tree farmer would have to plant Yellow Pine for his grandchildren or great grandchildren to harvest.  I sort of doubt that Georgia Pacific would be up for doing it.
 
So I think it would come down to what was available, as to length.  Your guess would be as good as mine, on what it would be.  It was probably even more restricted in Northern and Western Europe.   My shipyard will use planks 25-40 feet long.  But for an individual ship, a single length, instead of random.   If a particular strake would need a short piece at either end,  the intent is to cheat and use a longer board instead of having a stub.   It is important to follow the butt stagger rules.  After seeing so much of the opposite here,  the goal is to have the butts not so obvious to avoid the busy look.  The deck is not supposed to be a star.  My yard inspectors mentally register the words: tacky, boring, naive, distracting, inauthentic  on viewing a job done like that.   It is also to wonder about the logic behind having obvious and contrasting trunnels just at the butts and not also at every beam.?  In any case, trunnels should not be a contrasting shade.

I have almost zero knowledge about this part of Greek history, but how well does this guess fit?
These ships were "surplus" warships supplied by western powers who were keen on causing as much mischief as possible to the Ottoman Empire?  If this is the case, exact or a close approximation  of the actual plans or similar ones can be had from West European and maybe North American archives?
 
The mismatch of guns would be predictable if my guess is correct.
 
At least the above vessels are the practical workhorses of their era,  They could actually do a job.  The liners of that time were a total waste of resources, over sized, and ugly.  These vessels were sleek and lean and most were probably fast sailing.

There is another option in the bench size drill press:  There is a drill press mount for the Foredom flex shaft machines.
The accessory is far from flimsy. 
The motor options are for: high speed/low torque,   low speed/high torque,   medium speed/high power/high torque.
The hand piece options allow for either chuck or collet models to fit the drill press unit.
The bearings are probably up to doing any wood milling and there seems to be slots to mount an XY table - but the excursion does not seem to be heroic.
This is far from an economical option, but it is sort of a one machine does a lot sort of choice for someone who has not already made serious investment in a power tool collection.  As well as the drill and cutting tool function, and the fixed the drill press, there is a right angle grinder,  plus router table, clamp in a vise and small belt sanding functions .

There is another option in the bench size drill press:  There is a drill press mount for the Foredom flex shaft machines.
The accessory is far from flimsy. 
The motor options are for: high speed/low torque,   low speed/high torque,   medium speed/high power/high torque.
The hand piece options allow for either chuck or collet models to fit the drill press unit.
The bearings are probably up to doing any wood milling and there seems to be slots to mount an XY table - but the excursion does not seem to be heroic.
This is far from an economical option, but it is sort of a one machine does a lot sort of choice for someone who has not already made serious investment in a power tool collection.  As well as the drill and cutting tool function, and the fixed the drill press, there is a right angle grinder,  plus router table, clamp in a vise and small belt sanding functions .

There is another option in the bench size drill press:  There is a drill press mount for the Foredom flex shaft machines.
The accessory is far from flimsy. 
The motor options are for: high speed/low torque,   low speed/high torque,   medium speed/high power/high torque.
The hand piece options allow for either chuck or collet models to fit the drill press unit.
The bearings are probably up to doing any wood milling and there seems to be slots to mount an XY table - but the excursion does not seem to be heroic.
This is far from an economical option, but it is sort of a one machine does a lot sort of choice for someone who has not already made serious investment in a power tool collection.  As well as the drill and cutting tool function, and the fixed the drill press, there is a right angle grinder,  plus router table, clamp in a vise and small belt sanding functions .

Being that this is a Scandinavian lapstrake vessel,  it has a long line behind it.   Is there not physical evidence of antecedent  clinker methods from the 800-900's?  The outside limits for land length could reside there.   I would bet that a concerted effort was made to maintain a link with that past in how this later vessel was designed and built.

I have not seen the term before, but on an open boat, the painter is a section of rope at the bow that is used to tie it to the back of the ship - or whatever else is towing it.   It supplies a metaphor? for removing someone from your support: " cutting the painter".   To fit that name, I would guess that the chain is a relatively short length with the distant end not attached to anything - until it is used to temporarily secure an anchor or boat.
 
Looking at your deadeyes,  I wonder if a two part strop would work?  
1- a belt that wraps around the body with ends that meet at the bottom.
2- a hole in the deadeye at that bottom site where an eye is glued into the hole.  The end of the eye being a pointed tap - twisted?
 
Would this be faster to mass produce?  I can see that a two part epoxy would make this a "forever" unit.

I have almost zero knowledge about this part of Greek history, but how well does this guess fit?
These ships were "surplus" warships supplied by western powers who were keen on causing as much mischief as possible to the Ottoman Empire?  If this is the case, exact or a close approximation  of the actual plans or similar ones can be had from West European and maybe North American archives?
 
The mismatch of guns would be predictable if my guess is correct.
 
At least the above vessels are the practical workhorses of their era,  They could actually do a job.  The liners of that time were a total waste of resources, over sized, and ugly.  These vessels were sleek and lean and most were probably fast sailing.

The clamps in question are called “C Clamps” or in Great Britain “G Clamps.”  A well equipped shop never has enough of them.  They are readily available commercially in sizes from 1/2 in to over 12in. Any store selling tools should offer a selection.   Mine range from 1in to 8in and I use them constantly, from clamping tiny brass parts for soldering to clamping an entire hull under my drill press.
 
Much of what I know about woodworking, I learned from my father, a builder of Ship models, boats, buildings, and even an airplane.  He taught me when clamping wood to always include wood padding under then clamp screw to avoid marring the surface.
 
Roger

I have not seen the term before, but on an open boat, the painter is a section of rope at the bow that is used to tie it to the back of the ship - or whatever else is towing it.   It supplies a metaphor? for removing someone from your support: " cutting the painter".   To fit that name, I would guess that the chain is a relatively short length with the distant end not attached to anything - until it is used to temporarily secure an anchor or boat.
 
Looking at your deadeyes,  I wonder if a two part strop would work?  
1- a belt that wraps around the body with ends that meet at the bottom.
2- a hole in the deadeye at that bottom site where an eye is glued into the hole.  The end of the eye being a pointed tap - twisted?
 
Would this be faster to mass produce?  I can see that a two part epoxy would make this a "forever" unit.

I have not seen the term before, but on an open boat, the painter is a section of rope at the bow that is used to tie it to the back of the ship - or whatever else is towing it.   It supplies a metaphor? for removing someone from your support: " cutting the painter".   To fit that name, I would guess that the chain is a relatively short length with the distant end not attached to anything - until it is used to temporarily secure an anchor or boat.
 
Looking at your deadeyes,  I wonder if a two part strop would work?  
1- a belt that wraps around the body with ends that meet at the bottom.
2- a hole in the deadeye at that bottom site where an eye is glued into the hole.  The end of the eye being a pointed tap - twisted?
 
Would this be faster to mass produce?  I can see that a two part epoxy would make this a "forever" unit.

I have almost zero knowledge about this part of Greek history, but how well does this guess fit?
These ships were "surplus" warships supplied by western powers who were keen on causing as much mischief as possible to the Ottoman Empire?  If this is the case, exact or a close approximation  of the actual plans or similar ones can be had from West European and maybe North American archives?
 
The mismatch of guns would be predictable if my guess is correct.
 
At least the above vessels are the practical workhorses of their era,  They could actually do a job.  The liners of that time were a total waste of resources, over sized, and ugly.  These vessels were sleek and lean and most were probably fast sailing.

I have not seen the term before, but on an open boat, the painter is a section of rope at the bow that is used to tie it to the back of the ship - or whatever else is towing it.   It supplies a metaphor? for removing someone from your support: " cutting the painter".   To fit that name, I would guess that the chain is a relatively short length with the distant end not attached to anything - until it is used to temporarily secure an anchor or boat.
 
Looking at your deadeyes,  I wonder if a two part strop would work?  
1- a belt that wraps around the body with ends that meet at the bottom.
2- a hole in the deadeye at that bottom site where an eye is glued into the hole.  The end of the eye being a pointed tap - twisted?
 
Would this be faster to mass produce?  I can see that a two part epoxy would make this a "forever" unit.

It is not an ideal shape for me, but I tried another armchair experiment.
 
I checked McMaster-Carr and they have Aluminum "U" bar stock with dimensions that are close.  A 2 foot bar is <$50.  
a box of 1/8"-1/4" ( or what works) long enough thumb screws
A pilot drill bit and a tap 
How many can be had  depends on how wide are the slices  but if the whole bar is done, I am betting that the cost per unit would be less than ready made.

Welcome Ian,
 
A bit that may help you avoid becoming frustrated and quitting when you get into a build -  Try to avoid having any expectations about how wooden ship models are built based on any previous experience with plastic kits.   This is a different world.  It predated plastic kits and has different traditions.  Tis not  patience that you'll be wanting, it is perseverance  and a willingness to do research -  on a multitude of skill techniques, and on appropriate materials,  as well as on vessel specific factors.  The lack of stand alone completeness in a wooden ship  model kit  can be surprise hurdle  that few who enter this on a whim manage to surmount.

Welcome Ian,
 
A bit that may help you avoid becoming frustrated and quitting when you get into a build -  Try to avoid having any expectations about how wooden ship models are built based on any previous experience with plastic kits.   This is a different world.  It predated plastic kits and has different traditions.  Tis not  patience that you'll be wanting, it is perseverance  and a willingness to do research -  on a multitude of skill techniques, and on appropriate materials,  as well as on vessel specific factors.  The lack of stand alone completeness in a wooden ship  model kit  can be surprise hurdle  that few who enter this on a whim manage to surmount.

Welcome Ian,
 
A bit that may help you avoid becoming frustrated and quitting when you get into a build -  Try to avoid having any expectations about how wooden ship models are built based on any previous experience with plastic kits.   This is a different world.  It predated plastic kits and has different traditions.  Tis not  patience that you'll be wanting, it is perseverance  and a willingness to do research -  on a multitude of skill techniques, and on appropriate materials,  as well as on vessel specific factors.  The lack of stand alone completeness in a wooden ship  model kit  can be surprise hurdle  that few who enter this on a whim manage to surmount.

Welcome Ian,
 
A bit that may help you avoid becoming frustrated and quitting when you get into a build -  Try to avoid having any expectations about how wooden ship models are built based on any previous experience with plastic kits.   This is a different world.  It predated plastic kits and has different traditions.  Tis not  patience that you'll be wanting, it is perseverance  and a willingness to do research -  on a multitude of skill techniques, and on appropriate materials,  as well as on vessel specific factors.  The lack of stand alone completeness in a wooden ship  model kit  can be surprise hurdle  that few who enter this on a whim manage to surmount.

It is not an ideal shape for me, but I tried another armchair experiment.
 
I checked McMaster-Carr and they have Aluminum "U" bar stock with dimensions that are close.  A 2 foot bar is <$50.  
a box of 1/8"-1/4" ( or what works) long enough thumb screws
A pilot drill bit and a tap 
How many can be had  depends on how wide are the slices  but if the whole bar is done, I am betting that the cost per unit would be less than ready made.

Kearnold,
 
If this is not 'one-off' model and you intend to build others, you might consider using this as an opportunity to dip your toe into the scratch build world.  Replace the wooden component castings with dublicates that you fabricate using actual scale appropriate wood.  You should research the actual scantlings of the parts to be built.  The castings may be over scale to begin with. 
If you can make friends with a near by modeler who has the proper tools, The choice of wood species available to you is much greater than that available to those who fabricate hulls.  The parts that you need can come from the same stock as those turning pens since it is all small.   The choices available as 4x4 and 8x4 lumber are much fewer in number.

Dave,
 
You sorta have to use both.  a digital caliper of sufficient quality will have 3 readouts:  metric, Imperial digital,  Imperial fractions.  I would advise ignoring the fractions option.
For length  a tick strip can save on interpolation errors.
As has been presented above, the wise choice is to use the units of the original plans and tables of scantlings.  Interpolation and conversion errors are far too easy to make. 
 
@Bob Cleek @allanyed  National differences are obvious to any beginner looking at ANM - with the different scales on every plan - and add to that: the exact standardization  within a country being a bit fuzzy -  I had not put this together until now, but obsessing about +/- 0.01" on model timber stock is a wasteful and unproductive thing to worry about.  A foot or two translated to scale difference in a model hull is nothing to worry about.  The actual vessel would have a significant +/-.  The key factor is to be internally consistence.

Dave,
 
You sorta have to use both.  a digital caliper of sufficient quality will have 3 readouts:  metric, Imperial digital,  Imperial fractions.  I would advise ignoring the fractions option.
For length  a tick strip can save on interpolation errors.
As has been presented above, the wise choice is to use the units of the original plans and tables of scantlings.  Interpolation and conversion errors are far too easy to make. 
 
@Bob Cleek @allanyed  National differences are obvious to any beginner looking at ANM - with the different scales on every plan - and add to that: the exact standardization  within a country being a bit fuzzy -  I had not put this together until now, but obsessing about +/- 0.01" on model timber stock is a wasteful and unproductive thing to worry about.  A foot or two translated to scale difference in a model hull is nothing to worry about.  The actual vessel would have a significant +/-.  The key factor is to be internally consistence.

Dave,
 
You sorta have to use both.  a digital caliper of sufficient quality will have 3 readouts:  metric, Imperial digital,  Imperial fractions.  I would advise ignoring the fractions option.
For length  a tick strip can save on interpolation errors.
As has been presented above, the wise choice is to use the units of the original plans and tables of scantlings.  Interpolation and conversion errors are far too easy to make. 
 
@Bob Cleek @allanyed  National differences are obvious to any beginner looking at ANM - with the different scales on every plan - and add to that: the exact standardization  within a country being a bit fuzzy -  I had not put this together until now, but obsessing about +/- 0.01" on model timber stock is a wasteful and unproductive thing to worry about.  A foot or two translated to scale difference in a model hull is nothing to worry about.  The actual vessel would have a significant +/-.  The key factor is to be internally consistence.

It is not an ideal shape for me, but I tried another armchair experiment.
 
I checked McMaster-Carr and they have Aluminum "U" bar stock with dimensions that are close.  A 2 foot bar is <$50.  
a box of 1/8"-1/4" ( or what works) long enough thumb screws
A pilot drill bit and a tap 
How many can be had  depends on how wide are the slices  but if the whole bar is done, I am betting that the cost per unit would be less than ready made.

Poly urethane is a plastic.  I used it on my Walnut stained Oak kitchen floor in KY.  It looked good and held up well.  It certainly has its fans here for use on a model.  If you like a plastic look on a model on a vessel from 100+ years ago,  it is worth a look. It is simple enough to use.
 
Should you be more traditionally oriented, a simple, low cost, forgiving material is shellac.  More coats more depth.  Too shiny, Scotch Brite, steel wool, or bronze wool will dull it.
A low cost way is
Lee Valley shellac flakes 1/4 lb  -  choice of 3 shades for how warm and aged you are going for.
a can of denatured alcohol
for light 10% is enough (10 g in 100 ml)  the medium can probably be 20% , and the dark maybe 30%. 
Rag or brush to apply.
If you double or triple bag the dry flakes and put them in a freezer they should store for years.  just make sure that they are RT before you open the stored flakes.
It comes pre-mixed (avoid the silly aerosol version)  just be aware that the shelf life is limited.
 
A rule that learned in organic chem is that a reaction rate doubles for every 10 degree C temp rise.   Going from 20 C  to  -10 /20 C   is a 4-8-16 times longer half life for a compound prone to oxidation.