Coyote_6
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A request for more thoughts: I need to complete the woodwork on the hull so I can get finish on it. The issue is that this particular kit is more art than realistic - to wit, the kit only has 6 gunport covers for 24 gunports (aft 2 each side, 2 stern ports). Any port with a cannon has no lid. Of course the historical data on the PdN shows gunport covers. So a request for opinions - should I build it like the kit (6 aft covers only), or should I fabricate covers for all the gunports? If we do, how thick would you make them? 2 scale inches maybe? I framed the gunports to the kit plans so any lids would be proud of the bulkheads. 2 scale inches would be a little less than a mm thick on the model. If I did add gunports, the ports with guns would be fixed open. Anyway, any thoughts or opinions on my dilema appreciated! Thanks in advance folks.
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A progress update - many things but each so small! So let's begin our tour at the new port and starboard boarding stairs - much easier to climb aboard now, although the hand ropes will have to wait until finishes are applied. And the internal steps... Some work on the headrails - and installation of the seats of ease. Some aft mooring bitts on the rail - Added some cannonballs and spec'd an anchor rope (Syren). And finally the cat davits and forward mooring bitts installed. So many little things to keep one busy! Thanks for coming aboard and checking things out. Steve
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@@Dr PR Thanks for the link to your schooner thread. It is amazing how much research can be involved in understanding how old sailing vessels worked. That will be very helpful going forward. Your work and research are just superb! Steve
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@Dr PR Wow Phil. What a great book. Just started working with my new copy - so much info! And of course I have been trying to sort out bowsprit rigging and gammoning, and there it is presented on page 169, including rope diameter. Even Steel's rope length rule is included. I think I am going to enjoy this one - thanks for the tip, assistance and kind words. Great recommendation! Steve
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@GrandpaPhil All my favorite builders checking in. Thanks!
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@Gregory @ccoyle Thanks gentlemen - sounds like I will be good either way then. Nice to be able to benefit from your experience! I appreciate it. Steve
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@Chuck Seiler You are having county fair flashbacks. Made some good progress working on our ships there!
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Also, does anyone have any thoughts on attaching these beasties and making them fast to the decks and bulwarks? They are brass. I have been trying to avoid CA lest it deteriorate over time. PVA may not bite the brass but will definitely grab the wood. I will definitely drill small pilot holes so there will be a slight interference (like a nail or tack). What do you guys do? My searches were not forthcoming. I definitely don't want them pulling out during rigging. Thanks, Steve
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So a milestone of sorts - I feel all the wooden deck assemblies are complete and installed so I decided to start finishing the deck with Watco Danish Oil for protection. The color change was huge with the oil - there is no turning back. I will follow up with Watco Wipe On Poly in satin once the danish oil fully cures. Or maybe not - the deck has a nice aged working boat look to it right now. Decisions decisions! It took quite a bit of research to figure out how the forward companionway was supposed to work - added door hardware on the port side. Steady as she goes then. Thanks for looking.
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Still working on populating the deck and adding boarding stairs (one of the Constructo kit's features that adds a nice bit of character in my opinion). While that goes on I thought we'd try out one of Model Shipways' Ship's Boat kits. In this case the 5 and 3/16" offering. Here's how that's going (the boat is built on a build board, but this is approximately where it'd be lashed down). Chapelle suggests the PdN carried a 26 ft launch, and 20 and 16 ft cutters. The 5 3/16" kit actully measures 5 5/16", which scales (at 1/58) to 25.7 ft - close enough to represent the 26 ft launch. If all goes well we'll try a couple smaller ones as well. Two stacked amidship and one on stern davits. Gonna need some stain so it doesn't look too plain. Thanks for looking. Steve
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Keep moving forward! They look great. Steve
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Bowsprit before: Bowsprit after: Grand difference. I think it looks more elegant this way for sure. The bowsprit bitts required two tries to get them squared up and a good tight fit. Also fabricated the grates and belaying pin rail at the bow: Painted, polished and assembled the pumps. Mounted the pumps according to Chapelle/Royal Navy. Constructo had them much farther aft. So shiny!! Thanks for looking. Steve
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“Capt. Eddie” A-7 Corsair II by GrandpaPhil - 1/48
Coyote_6 replied to GrandpaPhil's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
That looks fabulous - awesome color choices. Much sharper than the beginning state for sure. Well done Phil. Nice interlude. -
While reconstructing the structure around the bowsprit, I drilled the port and starboard hawse holes. If I'm being honest I was just afraid to drill into the hull at this point. Relocating the bowsprit mounting point (bitts?) from Constructo's to Chapelle's location. (Did not need two extra holes in my deck planking, but in for a penny, in for a pound.) Building out the bowsprit support structure. We'll see if it's acceptable when filed/sanded. Not gonna physically be able to make 14 degrees with the given rail height, so 12 degrees will have to do. Noticeably better than 7.5 degrees though!
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Bowsprit angle. Shouldn't really be an issue. Brought the PdN to the local club meeting and one of the pros says "are you sure that bowsprit angle is right?" (Thanks Mike!) Of course it is. I followed the Constructo plans. See here - sheet 1, 7.5 degrees relative to the keel. Oh, wait a minute. Sheet 2 of the Constructo plans shows 11 degrees... Alas, back to Chapelle. "The History of American Sailing Ships" from 1935: 13.5 degrees. "The Search for Speed Under Sail" from 1967: 14 degrees. So off to make a 14 degree jig and praying I can get my bowsprit that high. Oh Constructo... (Good thing I didn't glue it in!)
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Wow that looks nice Phil. The symmetry is awesome.
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Looks good Phil. You'll only break or lose one when you make "just enough". Griswold is doing fine work.
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That is incredible! Nicest gift one could imagine! Great work and artistry sir!
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Masts and Bowsprit - Glue or Not?
Coyote_6 replied to Coyote_6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
@wmherbert Thanks Bill. That is another excellent consideration. I am thinking I want to replicate the full size build process with this ship as a learning exercise and she is pretty decent size (about 23" on deck), so hopefully I won't run into any clearance issues. But I received Mamoli's Lexington for Christmas and she is pretty small (deck length 10.5", 1/100 scale) - maybe rigging inside out will be a good approach for her. Thanks for the option! -
@Chuck Seiler Wedges and rigging it will be then! (Thanks for the kind words!) As far as the rigging goes the "ayes" have it @Dr PR @GrandpaPhil - Chapelle and "The Search for Speed Under Sail" are the plans to follow going forward. Appreciate the assists as always!!
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Masts and Bowsprit - Glue or Not?
Coyote_6 replied to Coyote_6's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
@allanyed The distinction between round and square seems a serious consideration. I do have round masts. Two thoughts going forward are: 1. Are wedges sufficient friction to facilitate balanced rigging? 2. As the model ages, if rigging were to fail alignment would likely be an additional issue for a repair if the masts were unglued. @paul ron brings a good point to make the modelers life a bit easier. I think at this point I still like the full-scale nature of not using glue, if for no other reason than to see what will happen if I do it the way they did it. I mean what good Naval story from the 18th and 19th centuries didn't involve replacing a mast due to battle or storm damage? (But glue does seem good insurance for the modeler.) @Dr PR My bowsprit had to much play allowing a lot of fore-aft motion and I was going to pin it, but instead adjusted the aft timbers protruding from the deck and now it holds pretty s you please. But pinning is a great tool in the toolbox here, and I came up with a couple great ways to do that if I had to. Thanks all for the replies so far folks. It would be interesting to see some pics of mast wedging in models. Apparently the 1:1 masts are wedged 360 degrees around? Wow. I am picturing a single wedge strategically placed to bring everything into precise alignment. -
Curious, do folks glue in the masts and bowsprit or have people been successful with wedges and rigging to hold them in place?? I am new to this and getting close to fixing my bowsprit - glue seems almost like cheating. Who does this without glue? How is the longevity? Any tips either way? Thanks in advance. (I searched in Masting using "install" and "glue masts" but didn't find much - suggesting maybe glue is the only option - did see one thread on putty to fix masts which was interesting.) All thoughts appreciated.
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A show of hands please - do you folks glue the masts and bowsprit in place or do you use wedges and let the rigging hold them in place?
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Also, I prototyped my carronade styling. Unfinished: Finished in "Colonial" Green enamel, polished brass gun, and gold paint for the elevation nut. And test fit aboard...
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