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Coyote_6

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Everything posted by Coyote_6

  1. A thing of beauty - very inspiring!! Congratulations on a wonderful outcome!
  2. Some work on the stem. Added the coamings. Drilled and filed the slot for the rope to help secure the bowsprit. Added the gallant rail knightsheads at the bow.
  3. So the latest work seemed like such a challenge to make happen, but it doesn't look like much when you see it implemented on the ship. The rails are installed atop the bulkheads! First attempt at incorporating a simple scarf joint. The bow has been opened up for the bowsprit. Lots of slow and careful filing here. The addition of the anchor rake reinforements, port and starboard. (These actually weren't much work but could use some more sanding.) Next steps will include finishing hull details and thinking about applying the finish to the hull portion and deck (tung oil and wipe-on poly). Then on to deck furniture. Thanks for looking!
  4. Here's a question for the professionals out there - does anyone know if the following (looking down on top of the cap rail) profile is an appropriate joint shape for connecting two lengths of rail end to end in around 1813, or just in shipbuilding in general? Other options?
  5. And of course the starboard crew has caught up with the port team - hull is faired and guardrails (wales) stained and installed. Hopefully that repair will disappear further when the hull gets its finish and darkens. Everyone is now turning to on the rails, and as we all know I can't edge bend walnut to save my life. So we cut out the forward rails from walnut sheet. Decent fit below. Will have to develop some fancy joinery to connect all the rails professionally. Thanks for looking, and as always all comments and ideas welcome!
  6. So we saw the new "build board" in the previous post, which I probably should have been using since the beginning of the build. 11 3/4" x 36" melamine shelf L-shaped brackets from an on-line retailer Pine trim strip Stainless screws as required. The melamine shelf increased the weight of the hull by like 20x, which should add stability for transport to club meetings and rigging. Adjustable L brackets allow added stability and nest with the guardrails. And a little flair.
  7. It's been a rough month for progress, but not due to a lack of trying. The starboard damage has been replaced and is relatively fair. Color variation due to a lack of spare material options - but when finished I hope it will look fine. I have spent 4 weeks trying to bend walnut and mansonia to curve as the gallant rails atop the bulworks, but to no avail. Steam, soaking, nothing. I have abandoned the idea and will resort to a 3/32" x 3" x 24" piece of walnut for the port and starboard curved portions, and will match and finish the rails with 2mm x 6mm x 500mm walnut strips. Very good color match if I decide to leave them natural. The other option would be black stain like the guardrails on the port side above. Finally, I have been working on a build board to facilitate transport to club meetings and as a stable base to support rigging when it comes to that. So we are still at it.
  8. As much as the starboard crew is having a rough time in the yard, the port crew continues with progress. Here we see supplemental framing for the damaged starboard section. Damage was removed bulkhead to bulkhead. While the starboard crew loses time on repairs, the port crew has stained and installed the guardrails to the faired hull. Progress continues.
  9. @ccoyle. Thanks for the tip! I will assess my spare stock and see what I can get away with, but that forward bulkhead is only about a quarter inch farther, so that may work well!
  10. @Azzoun That would be great Joshua! It would be fun to have them both moving forward together. I am hoping for no copper and a seamless repair, but we always have options, right. I feel I can get her looking ok again. That side can always face the wall, right?
  11. Fairing the starboard side and... Oooops! The planking ran a little wide. After cutting away everything less than about 1/2 thickness... We'll have to figure something out to make her ship-shape.
  12. Today is a milestone - the one year anniversary of the Prince's build log. I am super pleased with her progress to date and super thankful for all the support over the last year, from both Model Ship World folks and my local club (San Diego Ship Modelers Guild). Thanks all for your inputs and reactions. Status today is the port side of the hull is fair, the starboard is still in work and the stern is being filled out/shaped and coming along nicely. Photo of port stern filled in and shaped, starboard in work. Also have made a decision on mounting - flat board with single wooden cradle at center - gold nautical fish pedestals fore and aft. I've learned a lot in 12 months - progress continues...
  13. The metal ring looks alot like a piston ring for an internal combustion engine (motorcycle, lawnmower, small car). If one could find the right size the carriage build would be pretty straightforward? Really cool project and deck planking!
  14. Sanding has commenced. Any tips or tricks appreciated. Before: After: I also made a little 2" material sample to check my finish ideas. The first half inch is natural wood - then Watco Danish Oil in Natural. The Elmer's Mahogany Wood Filler seems to darken with the oil, which is good. Hoping to final finish with Watco wipe on poly (satin).
  15. Big night tonight - after 21 years of owning this kit - the Whiskey Plank is in!! Before installation: After installation: After reading about the old custom of celebrating the last plank with a drink of whiskey amongst the builders, I couldn't resist the tradition here. So the last plank, or "Whiskey Plank" has been installed. So the port profile: and the starboard... On to the stern. (And we'll see how she fairs with filler and sanding.)
  16. 8/10/2023 - So close! Below is how I am doing the bulwarks to hull interface (will be just covered [1-2 mm] by the wales/rubbing strip).
  17. Who knew planking could take this long!?! I am slow. But progress none the less. 7/29/2023 (Using pushpins as the hull starts to close up.) And messy "tailfeathers" to trim. Hopefully we can do her stern justice. When to do a wedge? The wood will tell you... (It just won't bend anymore! )
  18. @Bob Cleek Thank you so much for the links to those articles. You have saved me many troubles. I had intended to get some lead shot for cannon balls. Nope. I was going to paint the inside of my bulwarks with water-based acrylic paint. Nope. PVA seems well regarded and stable. It was kind of Mr. Wegner to share his impressive expertise - what an interesting job!! Great links Bob!!
  19. I guess the better question is, has anyone seen PVA fail on its own over significant periods of time, or is it pretty well time-tested?
  20. @Bob Cleek - some very interesting alternatives. Never thought about fishing line!! @Roger Pellett - very reassuring!
  21. If it's not too late to carry on this topic... My model (plank on bulkhead) called for glue and tiny (brass?) nails, with the nail heads ultimately sanded off. To date I have been simply attaching the planks to the bulkhead and the preceding plank with PVA glue alone. I am now considering the longevity of solely using the PVA glue (in abundance). If it has taken me 20 years to build her, I would like her to last at least that long... I fully agree with the statement above, "where one requires strength, archival permanence, or both, I think that it is important to mechanically fasten model parts wherever possible". But what I want to know is, based on experience, how long/well do PVA only plankings hold up over time? R, Steve
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