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Everything posted by Coyote_6
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On to the building. I wasn't planning on a build log but decided why not? This is pretty much box stock on the front end. Starting with the island, and test fitting it on the deck/hull. Island completed with the Tamiya airwing. I am not super enthusiastic about the lack of propellors and stick landing gear. Something will have to be done. Starting on the hull. Already deciding to leave some of the hangar bay doors "rolled up". The Pacific can get pretty warm after all. But leaving the front doors open means adding a little hangar deck up front. Not perfect but good enough.
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@ddp Wow. Those sound like a lot of fun but a lot of work, too. The Yorktown class was so influential in the outcome of world history. Truly fabulous projects!
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@ddp That Hornet kit looks fabulous, especially with the B-25s! I was torn between the two, but with aircraft upgrades (not enthusiatic with the aircraft included with the kits) the Yorktown's airwing was an easy upgrade as we will discuss. For the Hornet I would be tempted to build both a complement of B-25s for the Doolittle raid and an airwing representative of Midway. Perhaps for 2025!! Steve
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@ccoyle I wish we could post multiple emoji reactions to posts. "Thanks", and "laugh". You say wish me luck but no one actually does. You brightened my day and cracked me up - thank you!
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Every year at my work a few model builders display their World War 2 Pacific Theater model builds on Pearl Harbor Day. Never forget. Folks who don't model bring cool stuff like Great Grandpa's dog tags, or occupation money. It grows every year. Arizona in 1/700 at the front end, the Revell 1/535 Missouri at the end, but missing in between are the Midway carriers. I have committed to the Yorktown and my buddy the Enterprise. This will be my "quick build" saga of the Tamiya Yorktown. Wish me luck. Steve
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Updates from the last week or so: Categorize the rudder under "harder to make than it looks"! Port and starboard aft gunport lids: Cool feature of the day - the Prince was fast, and fast ships could get bad rudder oscillations. Marquardt's "The Global Schooner" gives a solution: square the trailing edge if it's rounded, and cut a groove in the trailing edge if it's already square (p.149). Sooo... Hopefully you can see the longitudinal groove cut into the trailing edge of the rudder. Speed secrets of the fastest schooners! Thanks for looking! I appreciate the support. Steve
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Chris - you just can't help but learn on this site! I was leafing through my copy of "The Global Schooner" by Marquardt and I said to myself "Self - this looks mighty familiar - mighty familiar indeed!". Is this your beastie? Steve
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Trying to get the transom stern close to correct may be the most challenging project to date. We'll give Chapelle and the Royal Navy the nod as far as what she should look like. So we start with: A little scaling with the copier... Scroll saw and test fit... Building out to plan... Creative Clamping 101... (Good thing the mooring bitts are serviceable!) Et voila! (I do realize the port gunport lid is too small. If it wasn't for rework...) Thanks for checking things out. Doesn't seem to stick up quite as high as the plans and doesn't seem to be as thin, but it does seem to match the build style to date and is much closer than Constructo intended. I am pleased - we'll see how she finishes with Danish Oil. Steve
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Wow Chris! Hard to believe this is card! The dimensionality (is that a word?) is just amazing. Very nice work. Steve
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That 3D vibe is awesome! Nicely done sir - paint looks perfect! Steve
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That is gonna be a challenge!! Amazing cutting so far. If they don't match up perfectly and some card shows on the backside do you color (touch up) with colored pencils or something or just let it go? One of our wooden ship modellers did a card model and he said it was so much more challenging than wood. I believe him. Great work Chris! Steve
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Welcome aboard! Good group of people here to help as needed. Steve
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Speaking of contrasting wood, a quick update - everything except spars has at least one coat of danish oil - so this will be the general appearance of the ship as far as coloring when she is completed. I also sourced some hollow brass rivets for circuit boards and used them as guides in the hawse holes and where the anchor ropes travel below decks. I think they look right on the deck but hope they don't look toy-like or cheap in the hawse holes at the bow.
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@GrandpaPhil Thanks! That would put you about 2.8 inches at 1/72. In researching this I notice Constructo leaves gun port covers off a bit (Enterprise 1799 for another example). I think this is an artistic choice to clean up the bulwarks, display the contrasting wood port framing, and show off those beautiful brass cannons they include. I am really torn at this juncture whether to go the "artistic" route or strive for a more "realistic" approach. (Don't tell anyone, but we're talking about a natural wood model here that doesn't even have any scuppers - and I am not going down that rabbit hole after the fact! ) I must admit the contrasting wood aspects are a big part of what drew me to this kit 2 decades ago. What to do?
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A request for more thoughts: I need to complete the woodwork on the hull so I can get finish on it. The issue is that this particular kit is more art than realistic - to wit, the kit only has 6 gunport covers for 24 gunports (aft 2 each side, 2 stern ports). Any port with a cannon has no lid. Of course the historical data on the PdN shows gunport covers. So a request for opinions - should I build it like the kit (6 aft covers only), or should I fabricate covers for all the gunports? If we do, how thick would you make them? 2 scale inches maybe? I framed the gunports to the kit plans so any lids would be proud of the bulkheads. 2 scale inches would be a little less than a mm thick on the model. If I did add gunports, the ports with guns would be fixed open. Anyway, any thoughts or opinions on my dilema appreciated! Thanks in advance folks.
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A progress update - many things but each so small! So let's begin our tour at the new port and starboard boarding stairs - much easier to climb aboard now, although the hand ropes will have to wait until finishes are applied. And the internal steps... Some work on the headrails - and installation of the seats of ease. Some aft mooring bitts on the rail - Added some cannonballs and spec'd an anchor rope (Syren). And finally the cat davits and forward mooring bitts installed. So many little things to keep one busy! Thanks for coming aboard and checking things out. Steve
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@Dr PR Wow Phil. What a great book. Just started working with my new copy - so much info! And of course I have been trying to sort out bowsprit rigging and gammoning, and there it is presented on page 169, including rope diameter. Even Steel's rope length rule is included. I think I am going to enjoy this one - thanks for the tip, assistance and kind words. Great recommendation! Steve
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