
wmherbert
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Everything posted by wmherbert
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I too have a long way to go on my soldering skills, or lack of them. I did ok on a 1:48 scratch built tug on my first attempt at soldering rails but failed miserably on a 1:72 plastic LCT kit. But on the plastic kit I used polystyrene rod and glued it. Came out pretty good. I think I will try that again for the ladders. Also I'll try gluing brass rod pieces. Bill
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David, looking very nice. I like the opening pilot house window. (I will copy that) The hose valves are a nice touch. Did you use the plastic for the glass in the pilot house? Also did you paint the interior of the pilot house black or is that just the photo? I added plastic behind the port lights in the main house but I'm not sure if you can actually it. I've been working on the stack. Trying to get the top piece to look like the real thing and shaping the flattened sides of the stack itself . I would like to figure some way of making the small flat vent near the bottom. I'm sure you will come up with a good idea that I can copy! And there is a little box on the back wall of the main house that will be fun to construct. What are your thoughts on the ladders? Bill
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Welcome. I saw Passagemaker about 18 years ago on the hard in a boat yard in Trinidad Bill
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David, Good idea for the fire hose. I'll try with some silkspan too. Looks like you are coming along fine. The forward plating is a nice touch. Now that the house roof is on pretty much everything else are details. I'm about as far along as you are. Just about ready to build the house. I have just about all of boxes etc built and ready for paint. I need to do final coat of topside paint and then paint rub rails. Then mount rudder and put on stand. This is a pretty fun model. Bill
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Looking good. are you going to plank the sides of the main house? I tried making the rack for the fire hose that is on the ship but not the kit. Rack came out fine but haven't figured out what/how to make the hose. This model has a bunch of deck structures that are kind of fun to make and miscellaneous vents and pipes that should add to the details that always seem to add a lot to a model. I'll be interested in how you approach these. Bill
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Welcome. Is that a kit or scratch built? Really nice looking
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Certainly no expert. But I would have hoops stacked at base of masts. And if you decide to do sails they are there. Need to get them on before the trees or you'll never get them on. Easy to forget. (Don't ask how I know this? Bill
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Look at the trouble figuring all this out for a ship less than a hundred years old, In the time of photographs and films and still existing. Then think about the accuracy of information about ships from 2-300 years ago. we need to keep on mind that these ships were not built as museum pieces but as working craft that changed over the years as usage and technology changed. So historical accuracy is important to an extent but remembering it's just a snap shot of a moment in its life. We get to chose what we want it to look like. For example I've never liked the blue gray paint color and reddish deck paint and feel no guilt about changing it to how I would have painted it. Bill
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And of course if it's not a steering wheel up on the roof then where was the one shown in the film. A nice little mystery.
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Also there is a tripod structure up there which almost looks like some sort of search light.
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You are right about steering base being triangular rather than round. So it is a bit puzzling. The other things looks like it has a Compass on top of it. I think that this is a Compass that is connected to an autopilot. I had something similar on our old sailboat. If so it is certainly an add on and not from the original time period. Bill
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David thanks for the parts info. One question. It seems to me there was an outside steering station on the roof of the pilot house. I think it shows on the 360 virtual covered with canvas and the documentary about the voyage definity shows the skipper standing outside doing some steering. Have you noticed this? Bill
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Oh, my vote is to space port lights to look right regardless of historical accuracy.
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David, I too wanted to add timberheads and like you had a few of the bulkhead extensions break off as I was sanding the hull. But I just glued a small scrap to the deck with a dab of CA and then glued the bulwarks to the deck taking care to not get any glue on the extensions. After everything was dry I cut off the extensions. Now I am gluing a 1/16 x 1/16th strip along bulwarks just below the rail to match the actual ship. I made waterways out of 1/32 material and decided to lay them on top of the planking since photos seemed to show them thicker than the deck planking. Anyway this made deck planking very quick since they would run wild under the waterways. No exact cutting. What hawse pipe fitting did you find?. I also want to add one to the stern and cover the existing ones. Now on to the timber heads. Which seem to have different spacing forward, at the waist, and aft. Not sure if I'll do that or just put them all the same. Bill
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Just saw this build. I just finished a kit LCT mk5. Built in 1944 in california in 3 months in 3 pieces and then shipped to new guinea for the invasion. 3 pieces off loaded and then joined together. My father skippered the lct1302 as a 22 year old. I built the kit thinking of him. Interesting how the design changed over the course of the war. Bill
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Hi, check out David Lester's build log of the st roch he has just started. There is a link to the maritime museum 360 virtual tour. It's great. You can look all over the ship and even has a measuring tool so you can figure actual dimensions of everything. Quite a resource. I'm just starting the st roch too so I'll will be following along closely. Looks like you've made a great start. Bill
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David, it will be fun to compare notes. I measured the timber heads at about 7 inches wide and 3 ft 6 in on center. I also like adding trim details to the deck structures. However my models have been mostly 1:48 so I admit to being a little nervous about doing that at 1:72. Old eyes/old fingers. Sometime tell us where you are getting davits etc. I have used bluejacket blocks before and liked them at 1/4 inch scale and found them difficult at 1/8 th scale. I planned on adding waterways too. I traced them off deck before starting on hull. I used 1/32 box wood and plan on laying deck and then placing them on top of the decking because it seems like they are raised above deck on the 360 views. I am just started fairing the hull so about the same point in the build as you. Bill
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I have just started the st roch as well. Thanks for the tip about the museum virtual tour. It shows everything and has a tool for measuring what ever you want. I could easily measure the size and spacing of the buwarks timberheads. I have wanted to eliminate the model's widely spaced ones with more accurate ones but could never find a photo that showed them hood enough for scale. What changes are you thinking about? Bill
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I agree with Keith. The first 2 0r 3 planks starting at the deck usually go on pretty easy. When they get hard skip down toward the turn of the bilge and run one that lays nice and easy. Then do one along keel and then fill in the ones between. I'm no expert at all but I've always gotten a smooth paintable hull. Albeit with sometimes a lot of putty and sanding. I know I will never be as good as a lot of guys are but I can live with that. Planking to me is just something you need to get done with so you can move on to the fun stuff. Bill
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kit review SMS Sleipner by Hamburger Modellbaubogen Verlag
wmherbert replied to ccoyle's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
What do you think about buying this kit and then enlarging the sheets to a bigger scale and using them as plans for a scratch built model? I find a lot of appealing card models that would be interesting to do as scratch built models. How feasible and any copyright issues? Bill
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