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wmherbert

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Everything posted by wmherbert

  1. One question i have for people using pedestals is how do you adjust them so that the waterline is horizontal if the keel is not parallel to the waterline , for example I think most keels have some dead rise so if you used same size pedestals the ship would be tilted up or down when mounted. Using brass tubes like I do I can cut tubes to different lengths to get waterline level. I have always been curious about how modelers do that with pedestals. Bill
  2. Well , just did a little Google search which i should have done before and i see some life rings have a 13 inch inner diameter, and a larger size have 23 inch. So there you go. I guess the navy ones were for really small saliors (haha) Bill
  3. This has been fun to follow along. One question. Life rings on my boat had a inner diameter big enough for a man to slip in to. I've never see actual measurements for life rings (if indeed they are some what standard) but I think mine were more like 18 inches inner diameter and about 30 inches outer diameter. Just curious, Bill
  4. I drill a hole up thru the keel where I want the supports to be and insert and glue in a stiff wire. I use brass tube to mount it on. Those I drill a hole and glue into a wood base. Then I fill the tubes with Jen weld epoxy and before it sets I lower the hull and wires into the tubes. Oh and I usually file the tube end to fit the keel. Of course you need to sure to get tubes the right lengths so that waterline is level and to secure model with something while epoxy dries. I put some extra blocking when framing to strengthen the places where the wires will be But I think you could drill the holes for the wire after boat was complete if you had help and were careful. And keels are usually wide enough for the wire hole drilling. I hope this all makes sense. Bill
  5. This build keeps getting better and better. Do you have any tips on making bends in styrene rod? Due to lack of soldering skills i have been making hand rails etc from styrene. But getting bends is tricky. I gently heated spots to get a bend which can work but is hard to control. Many time I've had to make 45 degree cuts and then glue to get a 90. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bill
  6. Doing a beautiful job. One question are you using a mini table saw to cut the small strips? Trying to get uniform strips of say 1/32 × 1/16 is quite difficult for me. Any tips? Bill
  7. Your build is coming along very well. Here was my attempt at a cover using silkspan. I cut it oversized so it would hang over the sides a bit. I wet it down to fold and bunch it up. Then I glued a long strip of silk span along the edge around the boat. Trying to look like a sewn piece. Then attached some thread as tie downs. The trick is getting the material that folds over the edge to not bunch up too thick. I have 4 to do on my current build so I am interested to see how your method with the triangular tabs works out. Bill
  8. The stair jig is a marvelous idea. Thanks. It's little ideas like this one that make reading building logs so worthwhile. Bill
  9. My personal savior. Works great. Sands easily. Let dry thoroughly before sanding. Bill
  10. Hey, that's no disaster. For first time to me it looks really pretty good. You're going to cover it all with second layer. After a smoothing sanding of first layer and the practice of the first layer I think it will come out great. Don't be discouraged, you should see some my planking jobs! Bill
  11. Chuck I'm confused about making bolts from fishing line. Could you show an example sometime? I'm really enjoying this build. Always picking up some tip or another. Thanks. Bill
  12. Your worries were for naught. Turned out great. Bill
  13. Beautiful job! It's been very enjoyable watching the quality of your workmanship. Bill
  14. Adding bulwark planks is the way to go. If there aren't going to be any try clamping a piece of planking to each post ( or as many as you can ) to support them as you sand. Also if you line up the top of the temporary plank to the right height it will be easier to get them all even. Bill
  15. Hi, I'm working on a scratch built steam trawler and I need a couple of larger cowl vents. I have a friend with a 3D printer if I could find a program file for one or could order them from someone who makes them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. For reference My trawler is 1:48 scale and vents are about 2.5 inches high. Bill
  16. Key for me is using the very fine tips I bought on Amazon. A ton of them for very little money. I get rid of the cap and just use a nozzle. I leave it on between uses. Even over night. If it clogs I just cut a tiny bit of the tip and it's ready to go. Bill
  17. Finding good plans with the detail you need is more important than any tools you might think you need. A scroll saw from harbor freight was all I added to what I had. Bill
  18. Mark, I personally wouldn't worry too much about it. Rake angles change the center of effort of the sails forward and aft. They would have been adjusted to the skipper 's preference. Different skippers, different ballasting, different stretch in sails as they aged, etc., different rake angles. What you have will be accurate and look terrific. Bill
  19. I just usually cut up pieces of clear plastic packaging. Glue with CA. Have to careful to not smear the glue on the plastic. I glue to the backside of the opening . I don't try to cut an exact fit into the opening. Bill
  20. As far as a filler I use this dap product which I think works very well. Sands out perfectly.
  21. Welcome. I've built that old kit and it came out very nice. If you would like message me and I'll send some photos and some thoughts. Bill
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