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wmherbert

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Everything posted by wmherbert

  1. I just finished a scratch build tug at 1/4 inch to foot. The hull was about 26 inches long. Since hull was going to be painted I tried using the widest planks I could. As you can see some were 1.5 inches wide along the bottom and the middle topsides. The stern took narrower planks but they were still over 1/4 inch. A midships there were only 4 planks total and at the front third only 3 planks total. All and all it made the planking much faster and way easier to fair. And when done and painted you can't see anything except a smooth hull. Just an alternate thought. Bill
  2. Searched but couldn't find the answer. How can I rotate photos that I post? Bill
  3. Alross2 thanks for the info. I checked the site and got some more information on lct 1302 and one additional photo. I have some of my dad's photos but unfortunately everything I've found has been black and white and none even show a pattern. On an old kit I found there is a color scheme with some color names that is the best I've been able to find. I'll try to trace down the paints. Since I don't have an air brush I will have to brush the paint, I guess masking off one layer at a time. Never tried that before so should be interesting. Bill
  4. Hi, I'm working on a WW2 landing craft tanks ,LCT, which my father skippered in the Pacific in 1944. I'm trying to find the appropriate paint. Is Tamiya AS-8 Navy Blue the correct color? I read that LCTs were painted a blue in the Atlantic and a green in the Pacific theater. I don't have an airbrush set up so will have to use spray cans. Any help would be appreciated Bill
  5. Welcome. I'm sure everyone here can point out things that they wished they did a little better on a model. I just try to do each one a little better as my experience and skills improve. And the reality is that you will spend many hours building a model that even your best friend won't spend more than a minute or two looking at. So just relax and enjoy the process and try to gain skills as you go along. Bill
  6. Looks great. I'm always amazed at how much difference little last things like line coils make. Bill
  7. Very impressive! Any idea how many hours for the standing and running rigging? Bill
  8. Thanks. When printed you would have white letters on a black background around the letters right? So you would trim a rectangle around the letters and the black background would go over the black on the model. Does that show up against the model black paint? Do you seal it? Bill
  9. I need to do white letters on a black background for my ship's name. I can see how i can print black letters on clear decal papers and I have seen white decal paper but can't see how I could print white letters. I've been searching the forum and I'm sure it's in here somewhere but would really appreciate some help. Bill
  10. Remembering to drill out blocks before installing them and to run a little CA glue on ends of lines before trying to push them through blocks really helped me. Bill
  11. Here's a 1914 hull. Tug is 100ft long so this looks to be from about 50 ft away
  12. I have thought the same. I owned a 88ft 1920 riveted hull schooner. From 100 feet rivets were not visible but overlap places were. So on the paddle wheel tug (1:48) I'm building I laid strip of auto pinstriping along hull and then painted over to give the feel of the plates. Bill
  13. I do glue the masts with PVA while doing the adjusting . And then when glue is dry I tie down temporary shrouds down to the sides of the model to steady them until actual shrouds are installed. Bill
  14. I first use an adjustable square . I place it on the plans to get the proper rake. Then I place the model on a flat level surface and adjust so boat is level side to side and waterline is level. Then I place the adjustable level along side the model and sight its edge and line up the mast fore and aft. Then a big carpenter's square (18×24 inches) I place directly in front on the boat and sight back along its edge to line up the mast. I have a jig that I made to steady the mast and hold it in position. I can slide the boat fore and aft and side to side to move the mast until everything lines up. Doesn't take that long and I think it gets it as good as is possible. Bill
  15. Beautiful work. Were those staples holding the shrouds to the cardboard on the jig? How do you go about setting that up. I've always been nervous about ratlines but that looks like a great way to keep them all straight and the shrouds in line. Bill
  16. Can anyone suggest a source for 1:48 scale car tires to be used for fenders for a scratch build tug I'm working on? any help appreciated bill
  17. One rather late question about your hull plating. I'm starting a scratch 1914 paddle wheel steam tug at 1 to 48 that had a riveted steel hull. I've liked the way your plates came out. Are the individual sheets of your aluminum foil butted together at edges or are they overlapped? And one other question. How did you make the half round rub rail running along the hull? Thanks, Bill
  18. Have you considered using silkspan? I've used it on my last three models at 1 to 50 scale and I think it's come out very well. I've never felt that using cloth looked so good. On each I got running rigging all done without sails and debated about adding the sails and at the end was very happy I did. Now these were all fishing schooners. Not sure what is best on a big square sailed man of War model. Bill
  19. Looking very nice. What is the blue cutter in the photos? I haven't seen one before Bill
  20. Welcome and congratulations on that model. Very nice. Bill
  21. "Conditioner" for basswood is mentioned because of the difficulty staining. What is it? I too have found basswood difficult to stain.
  22. Welcome. For my two cents I would look at the Billings boats Henriette-marie. I just got it for about $50 as a break from more complicated models. Easy rigging. Planking practice. 1:50 scale. Nice looking boat. Simple deck structures. I think pretty much a perfect first time model Bill
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