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wmherbert
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Everything posted by wmherbert
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I need to do white letters on a black background for my ship's name. I can see how i can print black letters on clear decal papers and I have seen white decal paper but can't see how I could print white letters. I've been searching the forum and I'm sure it's in here somewhere but would really appreciate some help. Bill
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Remembering to drill out blocks before installing them and to run a little CA glue on ends of lines before trying to push them through blocks really helped me. Bill
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Here's a 1914 hull. Tug is 100ft long so this looks to be from about 50 ft away
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You did a beautiful job. Congratulations
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I have thought the same. I owned a 88ft 1920 riveted hull schooner. From 100 feet rivets were not visible but overlap places were. So on the paddle wheel tug (1:48) I'm building I laid strip of auto pinstriping along hull and then painted over to give the feel of the plates. Bill
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Looks great. What do you use the spray for? Bill
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Stepping the mast with a plum bob...two questions.
wmherbert replied to HardeeHarHar's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I do glue the masts with PVA while doing the adjusting . And then when glue is dry I tie down temporary shrouds down to the sides of the model to steady them until actual shrouds are installed. Bill -
Stepping the mast with a plum bob...two questions.
wmherbert replied to HardeeHarHar's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I first use an adjustable square . I place it on the plans to get the proper rake. Then I place the model on a flat level surface and adjust so boat is level side to side and waterline is level. Then I place the adjustable level along side the model and sight its edge and line up the mast fore and aft. Then a big carpenter's square (18×24 inches) I place directly in front on the boat and sight back along its edge to line up the mast. I have a jig that I made to steady the mast and hold it in position. I can slide the boat fore and aft and side to side to move the mast until everything lines up. Doesn't take that long and I think it gets it as good as is possible. Bill -
Beautiful work. Were those staples holding the shrouds to the cardboard on the jig? How do you go about setting that up. I've always been nervous about ratlines but that looks like a great way to keep them all straight and the shrouds in line. Bill
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Can anyone suggest a source for 1:48 scale car tires to be used for fenders for a scratch build tug I'm working on? any help appreciated bill
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One rather late question about your hull plating. I'm starting a scratch 1914 paddle wheel steam tug at 1 to 48 that had a riveted steel hull. I've liked the way your plates came out. Are the individual sheets of your aluminum foil butted together at edges or are they overlapped? And one other question. How did you make the half round rub rail running along the hull? Thanks, Bill
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Have you considered using silkspan? I've used it on my last three models at 1 to 50 scale and I think it's come out very well. I've never felt that using cloth looked so good. On each I got running rigging all done without sails and debated about adding the sails and at the end was very happy I did. Now these were all fishing schooners. Not sure what is best on a big square sailed man of War model. Bill
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Looking very nice. What is the blue cutter in the photos? I haven't seen one before Bill
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Welcome and congratulations on that model. Very nice. Bill
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"Conditioner" for basswood is mentioned because of the difficulty staining. What is it? I too have found basswood difficult to stain.
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New member with questions about first kit options
wmherbert replied to HeyIwanttolearn's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome. For my two cents I would look at the Billings boats Henriette-marie. I just got it for about $50 as a break from more complicated models. Easy rigging. Planking practice. 1:50 scale. Nice looking boat. Simple deck structures. I think pretty much a perfect first time model Bill -
Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
On my current model, Puritan, the hull topside, bulwarks, and waterways are all white so no problem. When I run into difficulty is when topsides are black for example and bulwarks and waterways are white. Should the supper going through the bulwarks be white or should it be black? And more than historical accuracy what is visually pleasing? I've never come to a decision for myself.
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Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
And maybe this should have posted under painting section. Oh well....my excuse is that I am just old Bill -
Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
And sorry just realized auto correct changed scuppers to scubbers -
Hi all. I have trouble finishing off suppers so that they look right when painting hull. So much so that for recent models I've just eliminated them. My problem is trying to paint them when hull color is different from the water ways. When hull is black and waterways are white do you continue the white out under bulworks or paint that part of waterway black to match hull. Whichever way I try always just looks jarring to me. Which way do you do it? And which way would be historically correct? Thanks, Bill
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No. Once it was dry I laid it flat on a formica board and sprayed with water, rolled wrinkles out with roller and then rolled with paint. Then hung with clamps to dry
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Just an update on what turned out to work best for me to get rid of wrinkles. I got silkspan from SIG manufacturing in the medium weight. I had tried making a frame as suggested but with only a bit of success. I think the problem was that since it was taped on 4 sides, after spraying with water and then letting it dry it would only comeback to the tightness I had when I taped it down. So instead I got 4 yard sticks. Clamped the paper on one edge between the yard sticks and then clamped the opposite side between another pair of yard sticks. Then hung the top edge supported by the yard sticks between a couple if chairs and let the other edge hang. Wetted it down both sides and then as it dried and contracted the weight pulled out all the creases. I wetted it down a couple of times. On one sheet I repeated the process on the opposite ends but decided it wasn't necessary. One other little thing I discovered was when rolling out the paint on the silkspan was that if I wetted the paper and rolled out the wrinkles without paint on the roller first it was easier to get everything smooth.
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I think one advantage for wire is that glued in the blocks wouldn't twist so lines would stay in neater order.
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Rich, That is basically what I've been doing too. How do you make a becket doing blocks this way. I certainly can do blocks with thread must faster than with wire but never got very satisfactory results trying to make a becket. Bill
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Keith so to be clear you are mounting the blocks by drilling a hole and gluing in the twisted end? I think one of problems with wire was not using annealed wire. Also I was forming an eye at top of block to connect to an eye bolt and then cutting off the twisted end. And if it was cut too close the wire wouldn't stay and too long it just looked sloppy
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