Jump to content
MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here. ×
Model Machines LLC – Byrnes Model Machines - machines to be back in production soon. ×

wmherbert

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    271

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by wmherbert

  1. wmherbert
    Welcome. I'm sure everyone here can point out things that they wished they did a little better on a model. I just try to do each one a little better as my experience and skills improve. And the reality is that you will spend many hours building a model that even your best friend won't spend more than a minute or two looking at. So just relax and enjoy the process and try to gain skills as you go along. Bill
  2. wmherbert
    Well done!
  3. wmherbert
    Looks great. I'm always amazed at how much difference little last things like line coils make. Bill
  4. wmherbert
    Very impressive! Any idea how many hours for the standing and running rigging? Bill
  5. wmherbert
    Thanks. When printed you would have white letters on a black background around the letters right? So you would trim a rectangle around the letters and the black background would go over the black on the model. Does that show up against the model black paint? Do you seal it? Bill
  6. wmherbert
    I need to do white letters on a black background for my ship's name. I can see how i can print black letters on clear decal papers and I have seen white decal paper but can't see how I could print white letters. I've been searching the forum and I'm sure it's in here somewhere but would really appreciate some help. Bill
  7. wmherbert
    Remembering to drill out blocks before installing them and to run a little CA glue on ends of lines before trying to push them through blocks really helped me. Bill
  8. wmherbert
    Here's a 1914 hull. Tug is 100ft long so this looks to be from about 50 ft away
  9. wmherbert
    You did a beautiful job. Congratulations
  10. wmherbert
    I have thought the same. I owned a 88ft 1920 riveted hull schooner. From 100 feet rivets were not visible but overlap places were. So on the paddle wheel tug (1:48) I'm building I laid strip of auto pinstriping along hull and then painted over to give the feel of the plates. Bill
  11. wmherbert
    Looks great. What do you use the spray for? Bill
  12. wmherbert
    I do glue the masts with PVA while doing the adjusting . And then when glue is dry I tie down temporary shrouds down to the sides of the model to steady them until actual shrouds are installed. Bill
  13. wmherbert
    I first use an adjustable square . I place it on the plans to get the proper rake. Then I place the model on a flat level surface and adjust so boat is level side to side and waterline is level. Then I place the adjustable level along side the model and sight its edge and line up the mast fore and aft. Then a big carpenter's square (18×24 inches) I place directly in front on the boat and sight back along its edge to line up the mast. I have a jig that I made to steady the mast and hold it in position. I can slide the boat fore and aft and side to side to move the mast until everything lines up. Doesn't take that long and I think it gets it as good as is possible. Bill
  14. wmherbert
    Beautiful work. Were those staples holding the shrouds to the cardboard on the jig? How do you go about setting that up. I've always been nervous about ratlines but that looks like a great way to keep them all straight and the shrouds in line. Bill
  15. wmherbert
    Can anyone suggest a source for 1:48 scale car tires to be used for fenders for a scratch build tug I'm working on? any help appreciated bill
  16. wmherbert
    One rather late question about your hull plating. I'm starting a scratch 1914 paddle wheel steam tug at 1 to 48 that had a riveted steel hull. I've liked the way your plates came out. Are the individual sheets of your aluminum foil butted together at edges or are they overlapped? And one other question. How did you make the half round rub rail running along the hull? Thanks, Bill
  17. wmherbert
    Have you considered using silkspan? I've used it on my last three models at 1 to 50 scale and I think it's come out very well. I've never felt that using cloth looked so good. On each I got running rigging all done without sails and debated about adding the sails and at the end was very happy I did. Now these were all fishing schooners. Not sure what is best on a big square sailed man of War model. Bill
  18. wmherbert
    Looking very nice. What is the blue cutter in the photos? I haven't seen one before Bill
  19. wmherbert
    Welcome and congratulations on that model. Very nice. Bill
  20. wmherbert
    "Conditioner" for basswood is mentioned because of the difficulty staining. What is it? I too have found basswood difficult to stain.
  21. wmherbert
    Welcome. For my two cents I would look at the Billings boats Henriette-marie. I just got it for about $50 as a break from more complicated models. Easy rigging. Planking practice. 1:50 scale. Nice looking boat. Simple deck structures. I think pretty much a perfect first time model Bill
  22. wmherbert
    On my current model, Puritan, the hull topside, bulwarks, and waterways are all white so no problem. When I run into difficulty is when topsides are black for example and bulwarks and waterways are white. Should the supper going through the bulwarks be white or should it be black? And more than historical accuracy what is visually pleasing? I've never come to a decision for myself.
  23. wmherbert
    And maybe this should have posted under painting section. Oh well....my excuse is that I am just old Bill
  24. wmherbert
    And sorry just realized auto correct changed scuppers to scubbers
  25. wmherbert
    Hi all. I have trouble finishing off suppers so that they look right when painting hull. So much so that for recent models I've just eliminated them. My problem is trying to paint them when hull color is different from the water ways. When hull is black and waterways are white do you continue the white out under bulworks or paint that part of waterway black to match hull. Whichever way I try always just looks jarring to me. Which way do you do it? And which way would be historically correct? Thanks, Bill

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...