wmherbert
-
Posts
235 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by wmherbert
-
Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
On my current model, Puritan, the hull topside, bulwarks, and waterways are all white so no problem. When I run into difficulty is when topsides are black for example and bulwarks and waterways are white. Should the supper going through the bulwarks be white or should it be black? And more than historical accuracy what is visually pleasing? I've never come to a decision for myself.
-
Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
And maybe this should have posted under painting section. Oh well....my excuse is that I am just old Bill -
Trouble with scuppers
wmherbert replied to wmherbert's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
And sorry just realized auto correct changed scuppers to scubbers -
Hi all. I have trouble finishing off suppers so that they look right when painting hull. So much so that for recent models I've just eliminated them. My problem is trying to paint them when hull color is different from the water ways. When hull is black and waterways are white do you continue the white out under bulworks or paint that part of waterway black to match hull. Whichever way I try always just looks jarring to me. Which way do you do it? And which way would be historically correct? Thanks, Bill
-
No. Once it was dry I laid it flat on a formica board and sprayed with water, rolled wrinkles out with roller and then rolled with paint. Then hung with clamps to dry
-
Just an update on what turned out to work best for me to get rid of wrinkles. I got silkspan from SIG manufacturing in the medium weight. I had tried making a frame as suggested but with only a bit of success. I think the problem was that since it was taped on 4 sides, after spraying with water and then letting it dry it would only comeback to the tightness I had when I taped it down. So instead I got 4 yard sticks. Clamped the paper on one edge between the yard sticks and then clamped the opposite side between another pair of yard sticks. Then hung the top edge supported by the yard sticks between a couple if chairs and let the other edge hang. Wetted it down both sides and then as it dried and contracted the weight pulled out all the creases. I wetted it down a couple of times. On one sheet I repeated the process on the opposite ends but decided it wasn't necessary. One other little thing I discovered was when rolling out the paint on the silkspan was that if I wetted the paper and rolled out the wrinkles without paint on the roller first it was easier to get everything smooth.
-
I think one advantage for wire is that glued in the blocks wouldn't twist so lines would stay in neater order.
-
Rich, That is basically what I've been doing too. How do you make a becket doing blocks this way. I certainly can do blocks with thread must faster than with wire but never got very satisfactory results trying to make a becket. Bill
-
Keith so to be clear you are mounting the blocks by drilling a hole and gluing in the twisted end? I think one of problems with wire was not using annealed wire. Also I was forming an eye at top of block to connect to an eye bolt and then cutting off the twisted end. And if it was cut too close the wire wouldn't stay and too long it just looked sloppy
-
Here is a scratch build San Francisco scow schooner I just completed Bill
-
Here is a scratch build San Francisco scow schooner I just completed Bill
-
I've been having a great time getting started after a lot of years with model ship building and I've really appreciated the wealth of information here. My question is about blocks, which I'm sure alot of other beginners have too. I've tried various different methods of stropping blocks to attach to masts, booms etc. I've tried using fine wire and either making a loop at one end or just a wider space and then opening up an eye bolt to attach the block. tricky doing a becket. So so results. Latest method has been using fine thread and tying around the block and leaving the ends of thread long and then tying them to the eye bolt. I've tried either tying a loop first for a becket and then tying around the block or drilling in and gluing an eye bolt to the block to make the becket. How are you experienced guys doing all this? I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions. By the way I've been mostly working in 1/4 inch scale. Partly because of lack of skill working at 1/8th with blocks. Bill
-
The paper I guess. I didn't know there was fabric. I talked to Bluejacket where I bought it and they suggested steam ironing it between two layers of fabric. I tried that and it worked pretty well. Enough so that when painted the creases pretty much disappeared.
-
Boy I've tried the frame method and steam ironing but still have the fold creases showing. Any ideas? Maybe soaking in water for an hour or so.? Bill
-
How do you add my current projects and completed orojects under my posts?
-
I did buy some blocks from Crafty Sailor and they turned out to be pretty much the same as the model shipways beautiful blocks. Made by master Korabel. And half the price
-
Thanks all. Model expo apparently no longer sells their nicer blocks. Craft sailor blocks do look a lot like them As far as internal or external stopping. I've been building late 1800's fishing schooners. Not sure what is appropriate. Just saw posts about chuck's block. I think I'll wait for them if it's not going to be too long. I like to support his company. Seems like a nice guy
-
Model shipways has apparently discontinued selling their "beautiful blocks" line of wooden blocks which I've been using and enjoying. Any other sources of a little nicer wooden block? Thanks Bill
-
Beautiful job. How did you do the ratlines with wire? They came out very nice. Any tips? Bill
-
Yes I meant 3/4 to 1 inch diameter of the chain not the link length. I had an 88 ft L.O.A schooner that had 5/8inch chain . Your link looks like just the right stuff. Thanks again to all, sure nice to be able to draw on the collective knowledge Bill
-
Thanks. Looking at modelexpo site their chains are listed with different links per inch not size of chain
-
Hi. I'm trying to figure what anchor chain to get for 1/4 inch to foot scale. Most chain for boats such as the fishing schooners I've been working would be 3/4 to 1 inch chain but I'm not sure what size in scale that would be Any help would be appreciated Bill
-
Thanks for the great ideas. A frame. Wetting it and let it dry and contract is such a great solution Bill
-
I just started making sails from silk span . First ship turned out ok but I couldn't get totally rid of the creases that came with it from being folded. Any suggestions? Ironing seem like it worked some but some are still there. Thanks
-
Hi. You mentioned completing the Forester schooner. Any photos? Thoughts on the build? I have access to a kit and wondered what your experience was.
Bill
Our Emblem ®
