David W
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Everything posted by David W
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Looks great and watched and commented on your video!! I doubt that I would do that with the actual Amati Fifie kit, not your scratch built version as that supplied deck planking is only about a very thin 1.5mm thick
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That's interesting as a couple days ago the TG-3AS I noted/purchased above was $209 when I wanted to look at the air hose fitting sizes (1/8"BPS at gun end and 1/4"NPT at the compressor end). It's $112 on AMAZON currently. Either is a good price for a great air brush
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Good luck with this build Mostly just signing in to follow this Dumas build. I have one of their older and discontinued kits that I've been puttering with occasionally for 30+ years. The instructions are extremely poor and much of the wood was junk and mostly replaced by better. Oh and what balsa shortage? Just because wind turbine blades use it doesn't make it a shortage. It just increases the price by a lot
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Value-for-Money Airbrush
David W replied to BANYAN's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Lots of good information here. As others have said, often what you purchase comes down to what your personal budget can handle. My budget can usually handle decent, middle of the road items. My tool;s used to incorporate Snap-on and the like. Now, I don't make part of my living turning wrenches- I'm retired tho luckily not on a super tight income. My tools, if needed for a special project are now from Harbor Freight, AMAZON or Home Depot. Do I prefer US or other 1st world made? Of course, but Economics 101 (Wage - Price Spiral) has driven the costs well out many of our needs range. As to an air brush, if you only need it occasionally, maybe one of the $30 AMAZON knock offs will work just fine. If it only lasts 3-4 uses and a new one is on the horizon, then maybe another one will work. Then, you get to using it regularly, those dimes and quarters under the sofa cushions add up for that Badger,US made Paashe or Japanese Iwata -
Nice job. 👍 I'm (very slowly) building the same boat but going to go radio control which adds a whole new dimension to the build (read as time, mostly and some added dollars). Everything needs to be waterproofed and winter months inside isn't good with the odor in a small home. Then the motor and drive line need to be added which entails using a larger tube and shaft. All was set up then the Injora 35T motor I was using decided to die while testing a couple days ago. The new motor is here and will be installed today What I've done with the too short planking, especially the first layer is to splice and glue to approximate length. This will hopefully cut down waste since there isn't much extra materials in this kit. The second layer wont matter since it has the first layer as a backer. I'll be following your build since I'm not doing a log
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kit review 1:32 Fifie – The Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel by Amati
David W replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
I've been dragging my toes in the snow but it sounds like I had best find those 5/4x8x24" walnut slabs that I have and think about making some rub strips. One thing I have found with this build is that almost impossible to assemble lifeboat/dory that Amati so graciously used extremely flimsy mdf for the internal framework. I picked up a Model Expo boat that looks very similar and may use it instead - or none at all. At least that one is 'real' wood and not quite so delicate. -
Ahhh to see 42 again. 10x binoculars wouldn't even help me. That model couldn't be any worse then what I got from Amati for a lot more bucks. I'll pirate materials from the existing boat and adapt. Leaving the #1 bulkhead out seems like a winner. Again, thanks for your great write up and critique
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I sure am happy to have found this now elderly thread since I just ordered the 122mm (~4.75") version for my Amati Fifie. Even with the pain of building this little boat, it has to be better then what Amati supplied. I have probably 10-12 hours of frustration with that boat, includind repairing the keel and replacing one disintegrated former. You just can't make 1/16" pressed cardboard (MDF) work. Eric, thanks for the excellent post build critique and fixes. I have tis separately book marked👍
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I'll be watching your progress with interest as I am struggling with something better for my needs. I haven't planked a thing until this past week for 50+ years when I was building model airplanes. Currently I have a couple plastic boxes with many of my woodworking smaller clamps including some you have shown along with a bag of rubber bands. My frustration level is running very high with hull planking.
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I understand what you are trying to accomplish with your "dream". My comment to that is how would you work around all those hold downs in the way of both your visual needs as well as trying to get your hands in between the brackets. Then since my Titebond ll and lll dry so fast as do most other PVAs I've used , adjust the planks plus tighten the many bolts evenly. Nice CAD presentation and idea though - wish I had that skill set
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Then there is this little problem solver. If you are under 6 years old, it's not recommended . Ah! Those were the days
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Value-for-Money Airbrush
David W replied to BANYAN's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I would love an IWATA after having their pro HVLP gun for another of my $$ hobbies but doubt I could justify the cost. A Badger looked good but so did the Paashe TG3-AS which I ultimately purchased a couple weeks ago. MSRP is $209 but it's available many places for $100-$125. I haven't used it, just admired the build since it really needs an initial cleaning and a test run first. Everything about this tool says Made in the USA, not Made in the USA and assembled of worldwide sourced parts like so many items these days. There are a couple You Tube videos about this air brush that are interesting. -
To cover the suggestions above and a thanks for them - Lack of porosity - possibly due to type of tree or milling process - Oily/greasy - feels dry plus everything has been sanded pretty well - Not teak but could be a tropical dark wood instead of the expected walnut. My short history with tropical woods is slim but they are usually pretty porous - The CA at this point is pretty recent, probably 6-8 months and unopened until last month. As far as shelf date, who knows. I'll struggle through but it is perplexing
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Building an Amati Fifie am experiencing a situation where the supplied wood, possibly walnut of some sort, that doesn't like to be glued. I'm putting several small brackets on the wheelhouse and tried using Starbond medium CA, they don't 'stick'. OK, I'll try my Titebond ll. Yep, they stick but instead of being able to handle this part in, say, 20-30 minutes, it comes loose. Once dry, things stick. Yes, the laser burn marks have been sanded off. When I planked that wheelhouse and experienced a bit of the same problem - but I just used more Titebond then normal. Got a quandary and just curios if this is a normal situation with some woods. Oh and that Starbond works everywhere else, as long as it's not the supplied darker woods Leap ahead, I'm about to start planking the hull First layer is something like basswood and will be PVA glued. Amati says to CA the second. I really doubt that this is a great idea. Back to TiteBond but lll waterproof since the boat will be in the water
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It may be wood - just difficult to tell with it crushed in - but the OP said the finish looked plastic too, sooooo, adding 2+2 came out... uhhh ... a guess😁
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Probably the only thing I would do, using Roger's method would be to use an epoxy rather then PVA. The base hull material looks like some sort of plastic or composite casting and PVA may not hold well. Good luck with the repairs - and possibly you can "clean" up the kite string rigging too (I say with owning a model sail boat that's been waiting repair/rebuilding for over 50 years😬)
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These guns actually exist today in a weapon called The Cornershot. A quote "CornerShot is a weapon accessory invented by Lt. Col. Amos Golan of the Israeli Defense Forces in cooperation with American investors. It was designed in the early 2000s for use by SWAT teams and special forces in hostile situations usually involving terrorists and hostages." Wikipedia So. these were a figment of someone's imagination but then actually designed the weapon
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As a kid we played with an AC Gilbert Chemistry Set. You could poison your sister, blow up your teacher or *gasp* play alchemist. We all had some version of this set. All we as kids did was to make gunpowder which only burned since none of us realized that it needed a confined area of some sort. Then the rich kid learned how to use other chemicals and make things go bang. As to suit and tie - until my long term company went business casual about 1995, we were required to dress properly
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I didn't seem to find what you referenced but a Paashe single action airbrush I did see on their website was a single action, siphon type and not what I will ever again own
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Well. I did it with the Paasche TG-3AS Airbrush Set. Wandering other sellers, it appears that around a hundred dollars, give or take is the real world's market selling price, not the Paashe MSRP of $210. If it turns out to be counterfeit/junk, back it goes within my 30 day window. Outside of the big buck versions it appears to be the best bang for the bucks spent
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Looks like I had best do that research of mine a bit deeper. If it's really a Paashe then there is a big difference in price. At $209 I would be in some Iwata or Harder & Steenbeck range units. Oh well, the weather is lousy so do have the time. Thanks Kurt👍
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All great comments. Sounds like that fixed cup really may not be the problem that I as well as AH100M were concerned with. Thanks Now, guess I need to push that "BUY" button in the next day or so Oh and while researching these air brushes, a couple folks have mentioned that Vallejo paint sometimes clumps and wont shoot right at times. I have mostly Tamiya paints and a wee bit of the pre change Humbrol so ...we'll see
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That was the main reason I haven't pushed the magical "BUY" button yet
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I need a new airbrush as my Iwata and a siphon feed model never made the move to the new house. Oh well, hope someone can use them! I would love a new Iwata but the $$ outlay today for not much use now other then building models is not necessary. I've looked at the real low buck airbruses and have had passing thoughts but.... that is unless someone has a good 50+/- buck or so choice. This leads me to my question as to whether anyone has used the Paasche TG-3AS or as formally the 3F. It's around a 100 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WHH9W7B/?coliid=IEE1OHN87KR7X&colid=2H21MELLPPKUF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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I always wondered why some of my fellow workers were a bit .... off. Several were nuke sub vets and others were surface. Sleep depredation! Makes me happy that my army days were regular (well, kinda). I just finished a couple books about the UK navy in the North Atlantic during WW2 on corvettes and destroyers - those guys were tough. Good and informative thread👍
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