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David W

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Everything posted by David W

  1. David W
    Ian, there is another finishing (sanding) resin that's often sold in hobby shops that I've also considered and since I was late on my way to the dentist as I wrote the last, just plain forgot. Take a look at this as well. It has been out of stock recently but looks like AMAZON US at least, has it again: https://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Finishing-Adhesives/dp/B0006O8ESK?th=1
  2. David W
    I can fully understand not wanting to fiberglass a model but maybe just a coat or two of FINISHING resin, polyester comes to mind. I'm (slowly) building an Amati Fifie for R/C useand in the same dilemma 'glass or just a couple coats of resin then paint. I've' already sealed the inside with spar varnish plus paint but not fully comfortable with the outer skin/planking only spar varnished. This or similar is what I'm looking at using:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZ1CU1G/?coliid=I1GHA86B7RTVXO&colid=2GHV6Y2C7OD8R&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  3. David W
    Still little (no) response to the question. Maybe because it's tradition that 'everyone' fills the gaps. Not really a big deal, just seems like a way to spend more time and materials for little or no return. As far as depression filling. yes, that needs to be corrected. POB models with too few bulkheads seem to have an endemic problem with too much distance between them, allowing planks to sag. Filler blocks between them first then a filler wood on top then sanded or otherwise fitted to proper dimensions/shape will work. I like balsa since it will form easily without distorting the planking but soft pine will also work if careful.
  4. David W
    Be aware that Kleen Strip products are pretty good products to use around the house. If you want a professional level version find an auto body paint supplier or even a NAPA store. I haven't purchased any in a few years but the pro level cost was pretty inexpensive an a quart will probably last years (and why I haven't needed to buy more
  5. David W
    I'm about a third done with the first layer of POB planking on my Amati Fifie. It's going well so far, using full length planks with very little tapering. That of course will soon change though. With that background, Amati supplied planks that are too short for the hull so for this first part have spliced lengths together for that full length. Since the soon and upcoming planks, things wont be so pretty with some expected gaps. Since this is a double planked hull, I'm trying to understand why some builds that I've seen, the builders are puttying/filling those gaps. Is that putty really needed beyond possible depressions? Then, since this is an RC model it will be fiber glassed then painted for water proofing.
  6. David W
    Carlo, my model build is going very slowly plus being the first after many years of other free time eaters have not felt that opening a build log is a positive I'll drop some photos in a thread later.
  7. David W
    Carlo - you are probably right but being a wuss, probably wouldn't with the deck material being less then ..060" thick (many Americans don't fully understand metric measurement!). Then, my single history with Sikaflex sealant is that I ended up with about as much on me as my caravan's window replacement job. I have enjoyed that scratch FIFIE build and hope my R/C kit turns out decent even with the MDF bulkheads.
  8. David W
    Looks great and watched and commented on your video!! I doubt that I would do that with the actual Amati Fifie kit, not your scratch built version as that supplied deck planking is only about a very thin 1.5mm thick
  9. David W
    That's interesting as a couple days ago the TG-3AS I noted/purchased above was $209 when I wanted to look at the air hose fitting sizes (1/8"BPS at gun end and 1/4"NPT at the compressor end). It's $112 on AMAZON currently. Either is a good price for a great air brush
  10. David W
    Good luck with this build Mostly just signing in to follow this Dumas build. I have one of their older and discontinued kits that I've been puttering with occasionally for 30+ years. The instructions are extremely poor and much of the wood was junk and mostly replaced by better. Oh and what balsa shortage? Just because wind turbine blades use it doesn't make it a shortage. It just increases the price by a lot
  11. David W
    Lots of good information here. As others have said, often what you purchase comes down to what your personal budget can handle. My budget can usually handle decent, middle of the road items. My tool;s used to incorporate Snap-on and the like. Now, I don't make part of my living turning wrenches- I'm retired tho luckily not on a super tight income. My tools, if needed for a special project are now from Harbor Freight, AMAZON or Home Depot. Do I prefer US or other 1st world made? Of course, but Economics 101 (Wage - Price Spiral) has driven the costs well out many of our needs range. As to an air brush, if you only need it occasionally, maybe one of the $30 AMAZON knock offs will work just fine. If it only lasts 3-4 uses and a new one is on the horizon, then maybe another one will work. Then, you get to using it regularly, those dimes and quarters under the sofa cushions add up for that Badger,US made Paashe or Japanese Iwata
  12. David W
    Nice job. 👍 I'm (very slowly) building the same boat but going to go radio control which adds a whole new dimension to the build (read as time, mostly and some added dollars). Everything needs to be waterproofed and winter months inside isn't good with the odor in a small home. Then the motor and drive line need to be added which entails using a larger tube and shaft. All was set up then the Injora 35T motor I was using decided to die while testing a couple days ago. The new motor is here and will be installed today What I've done with the too short planking, especially the first layer is to splice and glue to approximate length. This will hopefully cut down waste since there isn't much extra materials in this kit. The second layer wont matter since it has the first layer as a backer. I'll be following your build since I'm not doing a log
  13. David W
    I've been dragging my toes in the snow but it sounds like I had best find those 5/4x8x24" walnut slabs that I have and think about making some rub strips. One thing I have found with this build is that almost impossible to assemble lifeboat/dory that Amati so graciously used extremely flimsy mdf for the internal framework. I picked up a Model Expo boat that looks very similar and may use it instead - or none at all. At least that one is 'real' wood and not quite so delicate.
  14. David W
    Ahhh to see 42 again. 10x binoculars wouldn't even help me. That model couldn't be any worse then what I got from Amati for a lot more bucks. I'll pirate materials from the existing boat and adapt. Leaving the #1 bulkhead out seems like a winner. Again, thanks for your great write up and critique
  15. David W
    I sure am happy to have found this now elderly thread since I just ordered the 122mm (~4.75") version for my Amati Fifie. Even with the pain of building this little boat, it has to be better then what Amati supplied. I have probably 10-12 hours of frustration with that boat, includind repairing the keel and replacing one disintegrated former. You just can't make 1/16" pressed cardboard (MDF) work. Eric, thanks for the excellent post build critique and fixes. I have tis separately book marked👍
  16. David W
    I'll be watching your progress with interest as I am struggling with something better for my needs. I haven't planked a thing until this past week for 50+ years when I was building model airplanes. Currently I have a couple plastic boxes with many of my woodworking smaller clamps including some you have shown along with a bag of rubber bands. My frustration level is running very high with hull planking.
  17. David W
    I understand what you are trying to accomplish with your "dream". My comment to that is how would you work around all those hold downs in the way of both your visual needs as well as trying to get your hands in between the brackets. Then since my Titebond ll and lll dry so fast as do most other PVAs I've used , adjust the planks plus tighten the many bolts evenly. Nice CAD presentation and idea though - wish I had that skill set
  18. David W
    Then there is this little problem solver. If you are under 6 years old, it's not recommended . Ah! Those were the days
  19. David W
    I would love an IWATA after having their pro HVLP gun for another of my $$ hobbies but doubt I could justify the cost. A Badger looked good but so did the Paashe TG3-AS which I ultimately purchased a couple weeks ago. MSRP is $209 but it's available many places for $100-$125. I haven't used it, just admired the build since it really needs an initial cleaning and a test run first. Everything about this tool says Made in the USA, not Made in the USA and assembled of worldwide sourced parts like so many items these days. There are a couple You Tube videos about this air brush that are interesting.
  20. David W
    To cover the suggestions above and a thanks for them - Lack of porosity - possibly due to type of tree or milling process - Oily/greasy - feels dry plus everything has been sanded pretty well - Not teak but could be a tropical dark wood instead of the expected walnut. My short history with tropical woods is slim but they are usually pretty porous - The CA at this point is pretty recent, probably 6-8 months and unopened until last month. As far as shelf date, who knows. I'll struggle through but it is perplexing
  21. David W
    Building an Amati Fifie am experiencing a situation where the supplied wood, possibly walnut of some sort, that doesn't like to be glued. I'm putting several small brackets on the wheelhouse and tried using Starbond medium CA, they don't 'stick'. OK, I'll try my Titebond ll. Yep, they stick but instead of being able to handle this part in, say, 20-30 minutes, it comes loose. Once dry, things stick. Yes, the laser burn marks have been sanded off. When I planked that wheelhouse and experienced a bit of the same problem - but I just used more Titebond then normal. Got a quandary and just curios if this is a normal situation with some woods. Oh and that Starbond works everywhere else, as long as it's not the supplied darker woods Leap ahead, I'm about to start planking the hull First layer is something like basswood and will be PVA glued. Amati says to CA the second. I really doubt that this is a great idea. Back to TiteBond but lll waterproof since the boat will be in the water
  22. David W
    It may be wood - just difficult to tell with it crushed in - but the OP said the finish looked plastic too, sooooo, adding 2+2 came out... uhhh ... a guess😁
  23. David W
    Probably the only thing I would do, using Roger's method would be to use an epoxy rather then PVA. The base hull material looks like some sort of plastic or composite casting and PVA may not hold well. Good luck with the repairs - and possibly you can "clean" up the kite string rigging too (I say with owning a model sail boat that's been waiting repair/rebuilding for over 50 years😬)
  24. David W
    These guns actually exist today in a weapon called The Cornershot. A quote "CornerShot is a weapon accessory invented by Lt. Col. Amos Golan of the Israeli Defense Forces in cooperation with American investors. It was designed in the early 2000s for use by SWAT teams and special forces in hostile situations usually involving terrorists and hostages." Wikipedia So. these were a figment of someone's imagination but then actually designed the weapon
  25. David W
    As a kid we played with an AC Gilbert Chemistry Set. You could poison your sister, blow up your teacher or *gasp* play alchemist. We all had some version of this set. All we as kids did was to make gunpowder which only burned since none of us realized that it needed a confined area of some sort. Then the rich kid learned how to use other chemicals and make things go bang. As to suit and tie - until my long term company went business casual about 1995, we were required to dress properly

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