David W
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Everything posted by David W
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I looks like a trip to WallyWorld is going to happen then (but never on a Sunday!).
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Resurrecting an 'oldie'. I had to bend a piece of plank today and found an old pencil type soldering iron. While it did the job, it finally got too hot and did a little scorching. While I saw above that a dimmer would cut back on the heat, the iron is really too small. The usual model making plank benders seem to have a poor life span for the money spent. I then did a bit of 'net wandering and a Conair hair curler popped up. This one: https://www.amazon.com/Conair-Double-Ceramic-Curling-1-inch/dp/B07CKKGR83/ref=sr_1_13?crid=E1XZY2QKEP9O&keywords=conair%2Bhot%2Bcurlers&qid=1673747122&sprefix=conair%2Bhot%2Bcurlers%2B%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-13&th=1 Is it hot enough and is the 1" appropriate? Smaller? Larger? They are about 12 bucks at the local Walmart
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Thanks Roger. Sorry about the slow response. Happy New Year Unfortunately we only have Home Depot and Lowe's here. Menard's have refused to ship out of their areas of business as I have attempted several time in the past. I have tried a couple no name Chinese saw blades but have reverted back 100% to either Bosch's Freud or Diablo. I just found that I have a fine finish 80 tooth /098 kerf Diablo 1080X in the saw blade drawer I had forgotten which I'll give a try
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F4U-1A Corsair by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/32
David W replied to DocRob's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hi Rob. Yes, I'll build that 1/48 P47, just waiting on some paints, and eventually build the 1/35 F4U. As a note to my skill sets - it's not so much that I can't put any model together and have a decent result, it's that I have some vision problems that make it difficult and quite time consuming to do fine close up work even with corrective lens glasses. I had not heard of Kubuki tapes so had to look them up. They seem to have a pretty good coverage though maybe not as much as 3m who seem to cover the entire spectrum of whatever needs to be taped. Again, your F4u is a great build!!!!!!! Dave W -
F4U-1A Corsair by DocRob - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/32
David W replied to DocRob's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Fantastic model of my favorite WW2 airplanes! Waaaay beyond my skill sets I had asked 'Santa' for one but 'he' decided that the 1/48 scale Tamiya P-47D Razorback was better. Oh well, it will get built soon, Daughters just don't always know those kinds of things It looked like you were using that blue junk tape for masking, Try the 3m Precision tape or their fine line instead. I've used them for years with solvent based paints on cars with no problems with bleed through or goo remaining: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067117/ -
The closest that they have to 5/8" (.625) is 13mm or .5118 with many being 1". Their stock is about what McMaster Carr shows. At the cost of a slitting blade, I could almost step up to a Byrnes table saw. Additionally, my past poor history with MSC is why I only shop McMaster for industrial parts, i.e. I need a 5 buck box of a specific kind of fastener, it arrives on my doorstep tomorrow, not sometime later : https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn?navid=2106272&searchterm=slitting+blades
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Good comments all. Thanks I looked at slotted and slitting blades on McMaster- Carr where I do have an account. While those blades may be a good alternative, none have a 5/8" arbor hole with most being larger. While I haven't found a thin kerf 10" blade do have a couple of 7.5" that may work assuming I can find them in the house move clutter I still am suffering. I haven't checked blade height/extension yet but will soon. As far as wasted wood - oh well. I make my saw table inserts from 1/2" phenolic and currently have a couple blanks made up along with some additional stock. I cut them to fit, add 4 leveling Allen set screws. Been doing this almost as long as I have owned the saw as the original aluminum one was cracked from the day it came home as a new saw. Then there is the fact my current workshop is the garage and todat at 20*F ......................
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Scanning through this thread makes me curious as to whether my 10" JET saw could be set up with a smaller diameter and narrow kerf blade and used for fine model work. It already has a Delta precision fence and an Incra miter gauge. I have cut in the past doing woodworking long lengths of wood that you can almost read the newspaper through after a good tune up. Hmmmm. Oh and that Dremel saw - looks like a great way to do small work with the mods.
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kit review 1:32 Fifie – The Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel by Amati
David W replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
I'm a late comer to this site and the Fifie. This thread (as well as John's build (Davao) on You Tube) have given me the inspiration to go ahead and do the model. I have only a very minor complaint and that's that the keel is MDF, not solid or plywood for radio control. It will need a very good waterproofing, Thanks for that great review a the kit is everything you noted -
Smith's is interesting but my oh my it is pricey on AMAZON for the 2 quart size. The 2 pint size is available elsewhere for about half the price. As a note, AMAZON also lists other similar products as well as rot repair
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I haven't found your log yet- I'm still a newbie here and floundering through a few folks postings/threads each day. I do have a little space (~6'x12') in the UNHEATED garage and my 'man cave' in a loft in this tiny house we have moved to for my wife's destroyed back. That man cave has at present only a 27x54 inch table to work on and a floor for my modeling tools and odds and ends. It is what it is and wont get better anytime ever. I did take a look at that West info. Good information. When I said thinning epoxy, that was only to lower the viscosity a little bit for flow into tight spaces, not for wood penetration as West alludes to in their paper. My original comment was to only add a few drops of acetone, probably less then one percent. Strength - wont matter interior wise nor will color though that has never been a problem for me in the past. Exterior - that ZAP paintable finishing epoxy really sounds good and may not need thinning. You apply, sand, prime (I have 2 unopened quarts of epoxy auto primer) then paint the desired color
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Ahhhh, scratch building!!!! I'm just getting back into modeling after many years of doing other things. I'm not ready - yet and why I'm doing the Amati Fifie instead of something like a multi masted 1700s ship. Gotta crawl then walk before I run a marathon. But, with that said, I do have the Amati full size drawings and there are many others available. It may happen someday in the future as I get comfortable again doing models Speaking of band saws - my little one had to go off to a new owner when we moved to this (very) much smaller house with no space for a real workshop after having over 750 square feet of shop and an oversized 2 car garage.
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Thanks Roger. I have looked at the West epoxies as well as theZAP products and haven't purchased anything yet. My experience is with fiberglass car bodies and have leaned a few lessons but am for sure NOT any kind of expert. I'll at least use the ZAP on the inside and see what happens since it will be out of sight Jaager - even closer is Curtis Lumber at ~5 miles away vs 30+ to Averill Park and they handle many sizes of poplar along with many exotic woods. As to pulling this model apart - can't be done at this point and remanufacturing bulkheads and a keel from Amati's drawings would require a scroll saw which at this point, don't have nor do I have room for without giving up other tools that are regularly used. It could happen but not yet. Thanks for that tip about another kinda local wood source as they have an interesting web site
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Usually there is a suggested chemical on the container but I have usually used a good grade of acetone, not the low end stuff sold in a big box store, when working on fiberglass components on after market car bodies. A few drops at a time usually works up to your desired consistency. Since our last discussion, I've spent a good part f the morning looking at different resins and what keeps coming up is ZAP Finishing resin. That's a "sanding" resin and can be painted. Of course the world seems to be out of stock of any but a 4oz size until mid Jan 2023...
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Thanks - I considered using 'glass already but will not be using it for this model. I want to maintain the visual planked look of an early 1900s Scottish fishing boat.exterior along with keeping the weight down a bit. Most of its life will be on static display. I will reconsider using a thinned resin on the inside and keel instead of spar varnish plus an overall thinned resin exterior coat before final color painting.
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I'm in the process of putting the Amati Fifie together for radio control. Of course that means it will get wet. I thought I had done my homework before purchasing but afterwards found that besides the bulkheads being MDF, the keel was as well. OOPS! MDF does not like water. I want to fully, or as much as possible waterproof that material. I am considering a good couple of coats of spar varnish on the inside as well as the entire keel. It will then be fully painted with, probably, Humbrol red on the outside bottom and at least to the waterline then a full coat of spar varnish or other paint I could use a resin overall or something else as years back, a model 'dope' paint worked too. Any comments on what I should/could do to keep water away from MDF and thin woods?
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Thanks folks, and hope I can be an asset here. Hopefully I'll not asking questions that are ahem, not somewhat .....dumb.😅
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Happy to see another is building the Fifie. I just started my build and am going with a radio control ship so am having to make some changes since the prop shaft is 2mm larger in diameter rather then the supplied 6mm I see that your planking terminates on various bulkheads and how I will be doing mine rather then splicing the planks as others have done. I'll be following with interest. Dave W
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Returning to modeling after a many year hiatus. I dug a 1986 purchased Dumas boat out to finish (what a clunk model!!) then decided that I needed something different, saw a You Tube build along with a member's review of Amati's Fifie. Since my previous modeling included radio control, that's what Fifie will be. Oh my! The r/c world has changed. The Fifie is started and a fun so far build. I hope to be a good and contributing member though may not do a build log this time as I've already well along with the framework but there will always be a next time
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