reilly

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  BUT I will also make my Carvings available in 1/4" scale so folks building directly from the books will be able to buy them.  Some preliminary views of the unfinished CAD work on the carvings.  There is much work left t do on these but I hope you agree that they look pretty amazing so far.



 
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf

 
 
 
 

Continuing with the stem/keel assembly....
 
The remaining sections of keel were added working my way aft.  The keel is actually two layers.  I added one layer at a time.  Each segment is numbered.   The numbers face inward so when the two layers are glued up you cant see them.
 

Here is the entire keel all put together.   Each segment remember is in two layers and I added them one layer at a time trying to get real nice and tight scarphs.   Its not difficult when done in layers.
 
I also added the false keel.  This is the thin strip on the bottom.  This was done with 1/8" wide strips the same depth as the keel.   I simulated the seams with a pencil.  There is still no finish on these parts so it will really look great once I add some wipe on poly.
 

On the aft section you will see a small step where the rabbet strip will end.   You will probably need to adjust where this is.  I made the parts so this was a bit forward of where it should be.  Just lay the keel assembly as it stands on top of the plan and mark the exact location for this slanted step.  Then use a sharp chisel or #11 blade to cut this step in the exact location.
 
Also note that the false keel may seem a bit wide top to bottom.  I have done this intentionally.  It is about 1/32" larger than needed.  I have found that the false keel when made of cedar will take a beating throughout the project.  It will get dented etc.   Even if you tape it to protect it.  So I made it slightly taller so I can sand the bottom of the keel down smooth much later in the project.  Just to smooth out any creases and dents.

The Rabbet...
 
The rabbet is done as I typically do on all of my projects.  I realize the rabbet is a complex organism of sorts.  It should have a "V" shape with and ever changing profile depending on how the hull planking enters it.   I usually make a mess of that if carved with a chisel.  Those of you who have the Speedwell books from Seawatch can see how Greg did this.  He is much more handy with a chisel than I am.
 
So this will be simplified and should you choose to add the garboard hull plank will mostly be covered anyway.   Using a simple strip here is neat and clean.
 
The one thing I have done differently this time is I laser cut the curved sections at the bow in two lengths.   See the photo below.  The two lengths are already glued on the stem assembly but I also show some extras on the table for clarity.   They are 1/16" thick.  The longer segment goes on first and is centered port to starboard.   This will leave a nice lip on both sides.  Then the shorter laser cut rabbet strip is added.   No need to sand the laser char off these.
 
The remaining rabbet strip that works itself aft is just made using a 7/32" x 1/16" cedar strip.  It ends at that slanted step you so carefully chiseled just a moment ago.
 

The Upper and Lower Aprons...
 
Now these pieces you have no doubt seen being made on many POF model.   The upper apron is nothing special.   Its a plain segment that is 3/8" thick.   Simple enough.  The LOWER apron is a different story all together.  It is much more complex.  You have probably seen folks hand chiseling tiny steps into both sides of the lower apron...once again take a look at Volume one of the Speedwell books.
 
I wanted to simplify this however.  Not because it could be difficult to do but because I know that most folks dont have vertical mill, or disc sanders or all the gadgets you often see when folks make the lower apron.
 
I have decided to make the lower apron using many separate parts instead.   Looking ahead to adding the forward cant frames, each set of cant frames has a different angle sanded into the heel of it.   This is so it can be "canted" forward.   This is simply not going to work to easily if you dont have a disc sander.  So I created small wedges with the angles already pre-set on them to accept straight right angled heels on the cant frames.
 
I hope that makes sense.
 
See below.  The upper apron is in front...easy peasy.  Set that one aside for now.  The lower apron is laser cut with a series of steps.  On these steps we will glue the pre-angled wedges.  But using this approach leaves the bottom of the lower apron very thin even at this scale.  It can easily break or get misshapen.  So I have laser cut the "stepped" lower apron attached to a sacrificial piece of wood.   You can use it as a handle.  DO NOT remove the lower apron from this "handle" until all of the little angled wedges are glued to it.  Those will give it enough strength...a remarkable amount of strength actually.  In the photo below I have already added two of the laser cut wedges which show the angles for the cant frames.  Check your plans as these are prominently shown.  Work from the aft side forward.
 
Each angled wedge is made on two layers.   They have laser etched numbers on them and correspond to the plan.  Gle the two layers together with the numbers facing each other.  This is important.   Glue the two halves together "number facing number".   The next to be done for me are the parts marked "7 & 6" in that photo.   I will glue them together now.

Once glued together with the numbers facing each other,  you could make life easier for yourself later by cutting them down a bit.  Once the two pieces are glued together they are too tall.  This doesnt matter at all but if you trim them to match the plans it will be so much easier to fair the inside of the hull when the time comes.   The Keelson will fit so much nicer on top of this when the time comes.  Below you can see me doing just that.  With a sharp blade I am trimming the top to match the plans.   Make sure you have the piece facing the correct way.  Place it on the plan and draw a line where the top portion can be shaved away.  Do this for every piece...I know its a pain.  But you will thank me when it comes time to add the cant frames later. 

When all of the segments are glued onto each step of the lower apron base,  you can finally cut away the bottom handle.  It was held on by just a few connectors which are easily cut with a sharp blade.  Hopefully you glued those wedges onto each step securely and didnt skimp on the glue.  Glue each onto its step and also to the wedge proceeding it.  Nice and secure.  Center them down the top of each step.   Dont mix up the numbers either.  That would be bad because the angles match each individual cant frame.  I also sanded the top of all those wedges so it looks nice and neat.  It also matched the shape for the lower apron shown on the plans.
 

Note that you should not remove any of the laser char on the angled sides of these wedges.  Not only would that screw up the angles laser cut into each of them, but it would also reduce their size.   That should be avoided.
 
A dry test fit of the upper and lower aprons on the keel assembly below.  trying my best to match the curve.   Use the plan to find the exact location for the aft edge of the lower apron along the keel.  You dont want it too forward or even too aft.   Place the keel assembly on the plan and mark where the exact locations are for the upper and lower aprons.  Note how the upper apron extends above the rabbet strip.
 
Note how the aprons are wider than the keel.   The aprons should be centered on the rabbet strip leaving a nice over hang on both sides.
 


 
Still no finish applied to these parts yet.  I will do that once the entire keel/stem assembly is completed.  Thats it for today!!!
 

 
Any questions?
 
 

Thank you, guys, for the birthday wishes! I started in this 'Industry' when I was 26, so have spent well over half a lifetime doing this stuff now!
 
Today I have been mainly doing the American privateer designs and more Sphinx laser cut sheets for a Krick order, no let up!

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

Such a lovely model.   Well done.

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I think I saw that guy mowing his lawn in the same suit 60 years ago...

I have no issues with the website. I purchased some product from them a few months ago and was very satisfied.

Hi Clare:
Those dimensions reflect 1/64th scale. Chris may yet see the beauty of a 1/48th scale Baltimore Clipper...just saying.
 
Bob

Hi Clare:
Those dimensions reflect 1/64th scale. Chris may yet see the beauty of a 1/48th scale Baltimore Clipper...just saying.
 
Bob

Hi Clare:
Those dimensions reflect 1/64th scale. Chris may yet see the beauty of a 1/48th scale Baltimore Clipper...just saying.
 
Bob

All I want for Christmas is an Indy kit.

Hi Chris, Baltimore clippers are rather lofty vessels, with the bowsprit and main boom adding probably another 65% to the length of the model. That will probably mean that, overall, #13 will be longer than the Sphinx... maybe 33"/840mm?
 
I'm going to have to rearrange the furniture here...

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.

I assume That this is at 1/64th scale but what vessel? Thanks.

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.

Their lines are so sleek and and I love the rake of the masts. Gorgeous ships!

Not guessing but the deck configuration and the shape of the bow reminds me of the letter of marque Lynx. Re-named Musquidobit after the capture by the British. Any Baltimore Clipper design will be beautiful especially designed by Chris. Looking forward to seeing more.