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SiriusVoyager
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New member saying hello
SiriusVoyager replied to Nelsons Dockyard's topic in New member Introductions
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Thanks, that is definitely my thought as well. My main concern was more about build complexity.
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Thank you Chris. That has been part of the struggle. My plan was always to do the Santa Eulalia next, but after looking at and analyzing my small stash I started to question that. Baring someone else chiming in with a good point about either build, I will likely stick to my plan. I’m definitely interested in both and which ever I do, I will do the other next (I have both kits already). That is very cool that the Santa Eulalia is what got you into ship modeling. I haven’t seen in person, but I hope to sometime in the near future. I believe that I have most of the info available online from the Barcelona Maritime Museum. Most likely I will do the Santa Eulalia first, sans a compelling suggestion to do the other. I’ll try my best to do it justice!
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For those that have experience with both manufacturers, which kit would be easier or more straight forward to build? For the Model Shipways Mayflower, I would build it as is out of the box. For the Esmeralda, my plan is to bash it to model the Santa Eulalia (which the kit is based off of). It looks like the bashing shouldn't be too involved, but it would be my first real experience with any level of bashing. The Mayflower seems like it may be a bit more complicated, but it has very thorough instructions. The Occre kit appears to be a standard Occre build, but again, with the addition of some kit bashing. I think the main thing I might be hung up on is rigging, a three mast square rig vs a three mast schooner (The Santa Eulalia doesn't have top sails which simplifies the rigging). You can see what kits I have completed in my signature. Thank you for any insights. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-MAYFLOWER-1620-SCALE-176_p_1019.html https://www.victoryshipmodels.com/ship-model-cala-esmeralda-wooden-static-kit-occre-topsail-schooner.html
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I believe that I can answer your question now. After using it to make about a dozen or so lengths of rope, I have to say that I would not recommend it. To be totally fair, I am not using it the way it was designed. Rather than using the hand crank, I used a drill, by using the chuck to grab the shaft of the rope walk. The shaft is a bit too short and the drill would slide off more than occasionally. After a dozen or so uses, keeping everything from falling apart has become difficult. I suspect that this wouldn't be a problem and the quality would be fine had I been using the hand crank. However, making a dozen lengths of 15-20 foot rope using the a hand crank seems like a task that would try my patience. Since I already have it, I am going to try to improve the design with some hardware, but otherwise I would go with another rope walk.
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This build is now finished, just about 2 years after I built my first wooden model, the Dory. The lines have slacked slightly. I am not sure if I stretched them or if the shellac caused it. It isn't too bad though. The fleet so far (sans cross section that wouldn't fit in the photo). This was a mostly an enjoyable build. The instructions were difficult to follow at time due to the low resolution on the photographs. The best reference photo was the cover photo on the box. I should have done a better job on the sails and been a little more careful with the glue on the lines, but overall I am happy with it. I feel that it was a small improvement on my previous builds, which is all I can ask for. I would suggest to someone doing this kit in the future to place the cleats before placing any of the furniture on the deck and to ensure that everything will be clear of any rigging. The canopy framing on the stern should also be put on later in the build. Definitely read through the instructions before starting and determine the order that you think would be best for you. Thank you again to @Javelin for supplying me with good reference photos, @wefalck and @Nirvana for resources and info on dhow construction and @Rick01 for his build log and sharing his insights on this kit.
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Just about done. A bit more rigging and that is about it. At this point the building is complete. The only thing left that I plan on doing is adding some shellac to the lines to help harden them a bit. Most of the rest of the solid structure has had been varnished as I went. I did end up with quite a bit of extra material. I tried to be very efficient with my usage as I was worried about not having enough to correct mistakes. Apparently that wasn't necessary, but hey, spare wood for future projects.
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Welcome to MSW!
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Very nice work! I love the outdoor photos. A couple of them could easily be mistaken for photos of a real ship.
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- Duchess of Kingston
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Welcome to MSW!
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A bit more rigging done. The instructions would have these lines start at the same cleats that they are tied off on. I didn't really like that so I tied them to the rail along the bow. I filed a small notch in the bottom half bowsprit to give the rigging something to grab onto. Just a photo of the bow.
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Just a small update. Put in the back stay. I tied it down to the cleat but haven't glued it yet until I get all of the other stays in place. The mizzen mast back stay loosened up and I don't want to repeat that. There were two sheets attached to the luff and tied to the rail. I also added two of the blocks to front of the main lanteen yard, but I will have photos of that on the next update.
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Reading ahead, the most confusing part was how bowsprit was rigged. The photos in the instructions are often useless at times. I have found that cover photo on the box is the best resolution. I made the same mistake with placing the chest too close to the cleat. I am not sure that I will be able to remove it without damaging the deck.
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Bulwarks
SiriusVoyager replied to sgrez's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I find it unfortunate that the instructions had you plank one side before installing as it will make it harder to bend properly. In my limited experience with Occre plywood (one kit), a bit of soaking didn't hurt too much. I would then take a clothes iron to heat the wood up, then clamp or rubber band it into place and allow it to cool in that shape. There may be a bit of delamination that occurs, but nothing that a bit of glue can't fix. There may be a better method, but this worked for me. As far as glue, I will use Tightbond when I am gluing areas that will be completely covered later, Elmer's glue all for most other gluing (both of which are referred to as PVA) and superglue (CA) only when I need something to hold right now. -
The main sail lashed to the spar. I calculated how much rope I would need based on the circumference of the spar and estimating the space between the spar and the sail, and the number of loops. I then added the length of the spar and added a bit extra as a safety margin. I was starting to worry that I estimated low but finished with about 5cm to spare. The sail with halyard and truck in place. At this point I ran out of rope so I made another batch.
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I got a hold of material to make sails. Just some light weight cotton cloth. No the ideal material, but it is the best that my local sewing shop had. I essentially made them the same way as the lobster smack. For some reason these seemed to be much more difficult to make. I attached the mizzen sail to the yard. I coiled the lines using the masking tape method. I made the coil, then used CA glue to hold the coil together, then a bit of CA and mostly PVA to glue the coils to the deck. I struggled in deciding how to rig the stays. In photos of actual dhows, it is clear that there were no stays visible on the side leeward side of the sails. It does look like in some dhows that the yards were simply swing around to the stay to be outside of it. I decided to rig stays on both sides to help hold the masts straight. I used rope that I made rather than the supplied string for all of the rigging. I used black rope on the parts of the stays that are essentially fixed and the eggshell rope on the running rigging and the parts of the stays that are tied to cleats and run through blocks. I liked the contrast of color. Hitching the polyester line to the cleats, particularity for the stays, was quite trying on my nerves. There isn't a lot of room to work and there is a lot of framing in the way. I eventually got it done properly. The Mizzen mast is done, main mast next. '
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Welcome to MSW! I haven’t built the albatross but looking at photos, it appears that your little gap will be covered later on
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I use makeup brushes.
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Welcome to MSW!
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Welcome to MSW!
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Welcome to MSW!
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