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SiriusVoyager

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Everything posted by SiriusVoyager

  1. SiriusVoyager
    Very nice work Greg! The attention to detail and patience in your build can really be seen.
  2. SiriusVoyager
    The instructions call for making the entire mast first. I learned after it was done that the lower mast should be made, then the shrouds so that they can be laid over the mast head. Once the shrouds are in, then the top mast can go on. This makes a lot more sense as the shrouds can really only be tied on around the mast head on a fully built mast. Next time I will make proper shrouds with lashed loops at the top. I also didn't realize that deadeyes were meant to be positioned in a specific way. I was able to turn most of them, but not all due to being glued in. Also for next time, I would make one [set] of shrouds and lanyards at a time so the others aren't in the way as much. I definitely need to work on my knot tying and lashing. It's done, but not very clean. With thread this fine though, I am not sure how to hide even a simple clove hitch. I used some wire spacing jigs to try and line up the deadeyes, but I don't think they will be perfectly even when done. Next time I will use a board and nail jig to make the all an even height. The first lanyards were relatively straight forward.
  3. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  4. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  5. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  6. SiriusVoyager
    Wonderful looking model! It would be hard to believe that it is made out of card if I hadn't seen otherwise.
  7. SiriusVoyager
    Very nice lobster smack! Now that you are done with the series, what is next?
  8. SiriusVoyager
    The next step is to assemble the mast. I think assembling the top after the trestle trees and the cross trees are fitted and installed would have been easier because the trestle trees needed to be shaped to allow the mast to fit though. One issue I rant into is that the instructions don't show how to put the caps on the masts. The holes clearly don't fit and there is no indication that you are meant to shape the top of the masts. I decided to shove a piece of dowel into the hole where the lower mast goes and cut it flush to allow the pieces to glue together. Getting the cap to stay in place long enough for the glue to dry wasn't working well, so I came up with another idea. Drill small holes in the mast and the dowel in the cap and use a small piece of leftover brass to connect them. This worked really well for the top mast so I repeated it for the lower mast. The mast fully assembled and installed into the hull.
  9. SiriusVoyager
    I gave that a try last night before I went to bed. It didn't seem to make any difference. I am just going to go with it as is. Once everything is rigged, I think it will be even less noticeable.
  10. SiriusVoyager
    Even if your rabbet isn't quite right, I think it is good practice for more advanced models that aren't double planked. I plan on doing this on my next few builds.
  11. SiriusVoyager
    I thought that that may be part of it. I was also thinking that uneven sanding could be to blame as well.
  12. SiriusVoyager
    Stained the masts and yards. I was hoping to assemble the masts but they weren't quite dry so I will get to that in the morning. I am not thrilled that the stain is splotchy and uneven. I'm not exactly sure what I can do about that.
  13. SiriusVoyager
    Thanks!
  14. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  15. SiriusVoyager
    Revenue cutters don't get the attention they deserve. Your model looks great!
  16. SiriusVoyager
    I am almost done with my fifth model and I still make plenty of beginner mistakes. Just remember, you will always be your own worst critic.
  17. SiriusVoyager
    Very cool Bryan, it looks great! I would have never expected a model kayak to be an interesting build.
  18. SiriusVoyager
    I shaped all of the mast pieces and yards so I could stain them in one sitting. The smallest yard called for using a dowel that is the same dimensions as the dowel used in making the capstans. Without realizing it, I cut off pieces for the capstan from each of the dowels. This meant that both dowels were too short for the yard. By a chance of pure dumb luck, one of the dowels was just long enough to be the full length of the yard minus one of the carved out ends. For that one, I glued a carved out piece on to the end. For the rest of the yards, I used a blade to cut into the dowel by rolling it under the blade. I then carved out pieces of the dowel using a hobby knife. I repeated this process until it was roughly the size and shape needed, then sanded it smooth. All of the masts and spars shaped and ready to be stained. The taper is only very slight and almost not noticeable, however they do match the dimensions listed in the instructions.
  19. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  20. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  21. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW! I hope the hobby and the forums can provide some therapy for you!
  22. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  23. SiriusVoyager
    Welcome to MSW!
  24. SiriusVoyager
    The second capstan is now installed. I basically made it the same way as the upper capstan but with the added shaft atop. Next is making the buckets for the shot. This again required either painting the iron bands on or making them from an index card. The bands on the buckets were much more pronounced which would have likely required me to sand them down had I made the bands out of card. Because of how pronounced they were, it was much easier to tape them off and paint them compared to the barrels. One bucket had a drilling error, but it was serviceable and won't be visible when placed in the middle of the gun deck. I used CA glue to hold the shot in place, then lightly painted them to make them look more like iron. I believe that all that is left now is the mast and rigging. I started working on the crows nest. Part of the frame required quite a bit of resizing to fit properly but was otherwise straight forward. One of my frustrations with this kit is that any removal of char in the notches causes the fittings to be loose (except for the grating which was very tight even with char removed). It would be nice if char removal was taken into account when sizing the laser cut pieces.
  25. SiriusVoyager
    For the ladders, I didn't want to install them the way they are shown in the instructions. The slope is nowhere near realistic, even for normal stairs. To make them more steep, and to face for and aft, I decided that they will extend from the opening in the grating to just clearing the grating below. I used some trigonometry (who says you will never use math) and figured out the angle which was almost 65 degrees. My miter box has an angle of 65.7 degrees, which I figured would give me a pretty good angle. The first ladder I eyeballed the steps to try and make them parallel to the deck. For the second ladder I made a wedge at 65.7 degrees to hold the steps. I also measured the ladder railing by simply holding it up to the deck below. It is apparent which ladder used the wedge in the photo below. I also started laying the base for the second capstan.

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