SiriusVoyager
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Everything posted by SiriusVoyager
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Making the main sail was fairly straightforward. The trickiest part was the reef points. On one side of the sail I made the reef points as the instructions stated. I didn't like the method. I soaked and stretched the line, but still had a hard time getting the line to be straight. It was also kind of annoying cutting a bunch of one inch pieces of line, then trimming them down to 3/4 of an inch once attached. For the other side of the sail, I soaked the line in diluted white glue, then clamped it down while pulled taught to dry. The line stayed straight and was easily cut to the final length of 3/4 of an inch and were much easier to attach to the sail. The mast hoops took a bit of time and patience to attach but was otherwise straight forward. I did have to attach a couple of the rings twice because the small gap allowed to line to pass through. I would recommend welding or gluing the edges together to simplify the process. It was time to attach the sail to the gaff and the boom. And the gaff broke again... I fixed the gaff again and finished getting the main sail attached. I wasn’t sure how much line to use so I estimated 3x the length of the head, which was just barely enough. For the foot I used 4x the length of line and it was much easier to work with. I found it a bit annoying that beads can be added for realism, but aren't included with the kit. It doesn't mention a size and the beads I bought were a little too big.
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- Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
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Thanks! I was worried there for a bit.
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The mast, boom, gaff and blocks are done. I coated the blocks and the mast hoops in a thin layer of shellac in the hopes that it will prevent the copper wire from corroding. They were all pretty straightforward to make, except for the gaff, which I ended up breaking twice, once at each predrilled hole. I only have photos of the first break. I also learned at this time that superglue does expire. It was quite frustrating trying to glue the pieces back together and having it not stick at all. Fortunately I had other superglue available. To get a stronger bond I sanded two sides flat near the break and glued on a couple of small pieces of scrap wood. I then filled in the little gaps with wood filler. After some sanding and painting, it turned out ok. I am glad I didn't have to carve out another gaff.
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Welcome!
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I remember the issue with the false stem. I think you are supposed to make one with some scrap wood or one of the supplied strips. The instructions don’t really address it, but it should be doable from the blueprints in the front. As far as the transom, if you are using white glue, isopropyl alcohol does a pretty good job of releasing the bonds. You may be able to fix it without having to undo all of the planking.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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Welcome, i'm looking forward to the build log.
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Looks like you are off to a good start. Those rolling bevels can be tricky on those thin strakes, but don't stress about them too much.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
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Unlike in the Pram, we have to make backstay chainplates out of a strip of brass. As I read this, I assumed chaos would ensue. It actually wasn't too bad. Fortunately I do have a torch to anneal the brass. I used my little finger drill to make the holes. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, it just took a bit of time and elbow grease. Maybe too much elbow grease since I broke the bit. The most difficult part was centering the bit over the brass strip. I drilled the larger hole at the top of the strip first. There is a little drawing of the plates in the instructions so I simply measured the distance between the holes to find the distance for the next drill spot. I then drilled that hole, then used snips to cut the plate off of the strip. Repeat for the second. A little filing, sanding and polishing and they turned out ok. When I went to install the plates I realized that there was a bit too much brass below the nail hole, so I had to trim them down a bit. I don't like the nails that are supplied with the kit (left) so I swapped them out with some brass sewing pins (right). Installed. The instructions say to bend the plate 20 degrees now, but I will do it when I install the mast. I like how the sewing pins are more flush than the nail would have been.
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The rudder, tiller and traveler are installed. The tiller and the rudder were easier to install than I had anticipated, and they actually work! I couldn't get the brass rod for the traveler to bend at exactly the right spots so it isn't quite 90 degree bends, but I think it is fine. The camera angle makes the traveler look cockeyed but it is straight. The fairleads and the bobstay eyelets were easy enough to install. The trail boards and the bowsprit are also done. I decided that I didn't want to use the supplied design for the trail boards, so I just tried to match the dark gray of the cabin roof. I had to read the instructions for the bowsprit multiple times, but once I understood what it was doing it made sense. The photo below has the backstay chainplates installed, but I will talk about those in the next post.
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I’m working on the third boat of the series right now. I definitely need a lot more practice and experience before I feel confident enough to jump into something expensive. I ended up finding a kit on clearance (50% off) that I liked, which will be my 4th boat. Depending on your budget and how you feel after the third boat, that may be something to consider. Of course make sure you get something that interests you, that is definitely the most important aspect of any hobby.
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I painted the hull gray, dark blue, dark gray on the top of the cabin and golden brown on the cabin hatches and inside the cockpit. I wasn't very happy with how it looked initially. After some discussion at home it was decided that it was too matte so I decided to add a coating of shellac and I think it looks okay now. I forgot to take a photo prior to the shellac. I think I would have preferred white rather than gray now that it is done, but for now I am content with it's appearance. It was also mentioned that looks like a Detroit Lions boat and now I can't unsee it. I will definitely be investing in some higher quality masking tape for my next model.
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Welcome to MSW!
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Thank you. I think if I can get the pain[t] job to look alright, it may actually end up looking like an ok model.
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You basically finished in 2023, I think we can count it. It’s a very nice looking ship indeed!
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- Marie-Jeanne
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Welcome! I would be quite interested in following a lego build
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This model is one I think I would like to do in the future. The legos in the clamps to hold the frame square is great! Looking forward to future updates.
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While working on trying to line up the hole for the mast, part of the deck between the mast hole and the sampson post hole broke. I cut a small piece of wood to place in that spot and used some wood filler to smooth it out. I also had to trim the frames for the cabin sides to fit in. The camera angle in the second picture makes it look like the cabin is very lopsided. It is not. Overall so far with the cabin roof installed. The pictures show so many spots that need touched up with the paint that seem to be hard to miss with a naked eye. The colors so far are golden brown for the cockpit and cabin doors. I may paint the masts that color as well. The deck and hull above the waterline are/will be gray. The cabin roof dark gray and the trim and hull below the waterline will be dark blue. I am not sure if the wet well covers should be dark blue or golden brown yet. I am thinking dark blue because golden brown is where people go. The rudder is also ready to go. The instructions make it look like the brass rod will easily fit in the groove in the rudder. The brass rod seemed to be almost as wide as the rudder in the kit. It look quite a bit of CA glue to get it to hold, even after making the rod fairly rough with sandpaper. I think the rod may be completely encased by the glue and that is what is actually holding it to the rudder. It works.
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I had a problem with the deck cracking in the middle because the center edges were a bit loose and any movement was causing a crack in the paint and subsequent wood filler. I have finally gotten the deck rigid enough that the cracking should stop. I touched up the paint and will add one more coat to clean up the lines and glue spots when painting the rest of the hull. The coaming is installed as well as are the wet well covers. The wet well covers are one area where I am glad I painted the deck early. The cabin sides are ready to install as is the samson post.
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Toe rails, rubrails and fair leads installed. Samson post is also made, awaiting installation. The toe rails were tricky initially because of the bends in multiple dimensions. I got them a bit damp and used a dry iron to heat and bend them. They held their shape quite well after that and were much easier to install. The rubrails were pretty straight forward. I think my fairleads are sitting a little farther aft than they should be so I may be removing those and try moving them forward. I think I will skip a few steps and make the bowsprit so I can test fit the fairleads prior to painting.
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The pictures do look like the planks are overlapped, but they aren’t. I’m not sure if it is the lighting or bad beveling, but I was very careful to ensure that the planks weren’t overlapped.
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Finishing up the hull planking. Since the frames didn’t reach the edge of the deck I had to add some scrap wood to fill it out. The photo is pre sanding. I faired them as I added each strake. Finishing up the planking, I started to worry that the sheer strake may not be wide enough. Somehow I was almost a full strake below the tick marks on both sides. Both sides on the bow were just slightly short, but amidships and the stern were ok. Strakes sanded and trimmed, ready for filler. I tried to apply the filler as thin as possible. The first sanding went pretty well. I’m pretty happy with the over all shape. I’ll do another application or two and try to fill in some of the little air holes and games that formed. Unrelated to the hull, the deck was loose and soft so I wanted to reinforce it. I also didn’t like the hole in the deck so I filled it in a bit.
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Welcome!
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@SkiBee These kits are definitely teaching me a lot as I had basically no modeling experience prior to them. Thanks for the encouragement!
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Creating that rolling bevel was probably the hardest thing for me to do on the Dory. The strakes are so thin that it is definitely quite a challenge.
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