Jump to content

bcochran

NRG Member
  • Posts

    590
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bcochran

  1. I’m running into a bit of trouble with the cabin roof. It’s been the biggest pain in the butt of this whole kit beside the electronics. 
     

    I’ve had trouble painting it because of the paint I chose. Because I chose to build the cabin framing as one piece the roof doesn’t fit well and it was a bear getting it in place. 
     
    This will be an area that I won’t be pleased with and years from now I won’t remember why when I look at the boat.

  2. I am trying to add some chrome trim like I've seen on the real boats. The model leaves off a bit of detail, and it is a judgement call whether to try and add it or not.  You can go overboard if you are not real skilled.  Some folks on this board are geniuses with adding the bling. Depending on your ability, you can reach a point where the law of diminishing returns kicks in. I try to get to a point where the model as a whole has balance when it comes to detail.

    I have gotten to the point where what I do detracts from the appearance.  I hope to hell to not go there.

    thumbnail_IMG_0848.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0849.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0850.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0851.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0852.jpg

    27751(2).jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0853.jpg

    thumbnail_IMG_0854.jpg

  3. I wanted to mention that this boat kit is a lot more fun to build than my Cutty Sark and Robert E Lee were. 
     

    I didn’t finish the rigging on the Cutty Sark, maybe I’ll get back to it some day.  There were two other Cutty Sark builds going when I did mine and both of those builders were an inspiration to me.  Anyone who completes a full rigged ship has my admiration.   I don’t have the stuff to deal with the fragility of a plastic sailing ship. Parts are constantly breaking do to my clumsiness and I had to find ways to recover. 
    The Robt E Lee was easier, less fragile and I put a lot of time in researching steamboats. 
     

    This model has big pieces that are easy to work with though some extra thought is needed to get it together correctly. The big pieces makes it less risky to work with.  Any do overs I have with this is because of painting mistakes.

     

    BUT!  This boat requires I learn R/C boat skills which I didn’t bring to the build. 
     

    I am 77 years old and retired which frees me from needing to add new work skill sets to my tool kit in order to keep up with competing co-workers like I use to have to do. I can pick my battles now or leave them.  I gave up on the electronics of this boat last December but now I am going to give it another try after the boat is built. 
     

    Another thought is that I can fantasize about really owning a boat like this.  There are old used Chris Craft boats for sale on the internet.  I could afford to buy one but I am not sure about the storage, restoration or upkeep.  You’d have to make it a big part of your life. I do live near several good harbors, Santa Barbara, Morrow Bay and Port San Luis.  I think it will remain a fantasy. Playing with the model on the pond will be fun. 

  4. 4 hours ago, medic12 said:

    Hi Bob,

    Thank you so much for sending those instructions to me. I greatly appreciate it. If you are still needing some help on the electronics on your boat, let me know. I've been building stuff like this on and off since the 1970's when I started with my Dad. I got back into the hobby a few years ago and brushed up on the newer computer radios and power systems. I learned electronics as an Avionics Technician in the Air Force and have continued to advance my skills as time goes on. Keep up the good work!

     

    Mark

    Thanks Mark,

     

    I was a radar repairman in the Army in Vietnam in 1967-68 but I don’t remember much about electronics today.   I can sure use your help. 
     

    I am going to work on the superstructure while learning what to do with the electronics.

  5. Something else I thought was weird.  There are no raised borders at the places where the hull windows are to be glued in place.  You just glue them to the inside surface of the hull, which at places does not have the same flat plane as the window. The windows are larger than the opening they cover, there is no "fit" to them. I used canopy glue, which dries clear and should hold the window and plug any gaps so that water cannot get in.  If the window should fall out, it will fall inside the hull.

    thumbnail_IMG_0777.jpg

  6. The instructions to this kit can be confusing at times.  An example is the instruction on installing the mounting brackets that screws go in, to hold the rear deck piece in place. The instructions say to mount the brackets about 6 1/2 inches (16.5cm) from the stern.  Since the holes in the brackets need to line up with the holes in the deck, so the screws go through both, there isn't any "about" about it.  Also, there are no markings showing where the brackets should go.

     

    To get it correct, I marked the hull where the mounting bracket holes should line up without measuring the distance from the end of the deck.  I didn't know where that spot was either.  I glued the brackets in place and tested how they lined up with the deck using a long tooth pic.  After the glue dries, I'll attempt to put the screws in.  You must tap the brackets with the screws before mounting them.

     

    The instructions do not say to glue the front deck to the hull.  I think you should because there is only the rear deck to hold it in place and that doesn't seem sufficient to me given all the superstructure that goes on the front deck. Also, the only access I need under it is to set the batteries in place, and I can do that with the deck glued down. Another issue is the slight warp in the front deck keeping the tip of the deck from sitting on the hull tightly.

    g1.jpg

    g2.jpg

    g3.jpg

    g5.jpg

    g6.jpg

    g7.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...