marktiedens

Hi guys:
 
Now I am in the process of doing the shrouds. As you all know, implies much more work that it seems at first sight and they consume great time.  But this is nothing comparing with the more or less 900 knots for the ratlines that I will do later!!!
 
In the first picture you can see the two methods I used to do the shrouds, preferring the double one in order to reduce the thickness over the mast.
 

 
So far there has not been much problem with the instructions but I approach a twilight zone with the rest of the rigging, since the BB instructions are somewhat confusing and there are differences with the 1:10 model of the Vasa Museum, also with the Clayton´s model and with the Corel pictures I already saw.
 
Saludos, Karl
 
 

Build log part 45
 
 
 
The rigging of the anchor cables
 
 
 

slowly but steady Pegasus is coming on
 

guns are now all completely rigged
 

 
 

 
 

The anchors will be mounted much later, but the cables are placed already
 
 

Capstan with 4 rounds to the Messenger cable
 

the QD is going to cover the most of it, but view is partialy given from through the outcut in QD
I`m going to fit Support rollers (bracket with Horizontal and vertical rollers) for the Messenger, just behind those pillars to avoid rubbing to the wood
 

port anchor cable is tied and secured to the bit, whilst the starbord cable is temporary tied to the Messenger, as a waist-decklength is hauled in, then the tie is shifted to the front again for the next haul
All the ropes are indicating a busy deck...., I wonder already how that may look after the rigging later on...
 
 
 
Nils

Looking good. Have you checked the length of the dummy barrels so they don`t stick out too far? Just a thought.
 
/Mark

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

One main deck gun constructed. I decided to enhance the construction from the basic kit design and supplies. I tapered the carriage from 10.5mm wide to 10.5 at front and 9.0 at rear. Also tapered front of carriage slanting backward from bottom up. I also added the qoin for elevating the barrel and the cotter pins for the truck wheels. If you are going to add the cotter pins, the front axle needs to be lengthened to 19.25mm and the rear to 18.0mm. I aged the brass barrel and eye bolts with a blackener. The only thing missing at this point is the trunion band to hold the gun barrel on the carriage. I did not have any suitable material to make this, but have some copper strips coming. Will add later.
 
Vince P.

The main deck gratings completed and in place. If you are going to use PVA glue to construct them, dilute it to at least 50/50 glue and water. It makes it much easier to work with and still holds everything in place. I just dunked the little slots in the glue and pressed each piece into place. I did not immerse the entire grate after construction. Each is finished in one coat of a natural oil based finish, since I think the natural wood color is perfect. When placing the gratings, the ribs running along the top of the grate should run in line with the length of the ship.
 
Next up: Construct a main deck gun so I can set the height of the main deck ports and cut them out.
 
Vince P.

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Well,as usual I made a couple of errors on the rigging already.I had the mizzen topmast stay all wrong & re-did it. Also forgot to add the bowsprit mast stay. The crowfeet rigging is a real pain but I got it done - more to do later on the running rigging.I had some nice rigging hooks left over from another build so I used them on the mast tackles (the ropes & pulleys between the lower deadeyes).
 

 

 

 
/Mark

Build log part 44
 
 
 
 

view into cargo hold and intermediate deck
intermediate deck with sight on Forward stair from gundeck, sailroom, freshwater-drum, railing for main hold hatch, upper well area, and in Background pantry room.
The port side stowed anchor cable is tied and resting on the cargo and Barrels, and rises up and through the gundeck hatch grating
 

portside aft chainplates. Because of suited length to the intermediate links I made individual new ones instead of using the ones from the etch-sheet
 

 
 

appr. 66% of this area shall be covered by the QD
 

I´m quite pleased to be so far now... (keellaying was in Apr. 2013)
 

my Color System, brass, natural Wood and dull black where applicable
 

last dry fit for focsile- and Quarterdeck, all fits well so far..
 

also fitted the last deckstringers
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
Build log part 45 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Update July 1st.
I finished gluing the metal cannon frames for both sides of the upper deck, and those of the starboard side of the two lower decks. They are different in shape. They seem to follow a reasonable smooth line across the hull, except at the point of the frame number 9 from right to left where it seems to be a slight jump. Hope this will not be too noticeable once the hull is planked, as it's supposed to follow a smooth curve following the wales.
This is new stuff for me. It's taking me much time.First I had a really hard time trying to understand what the instructions were trying to say. After several tries, the light shone upon me and finally managed to decipher what they meant.
 
(Some further alignment is still possible)
   
 

 
Testing for proper height against a gun carriage
 

 

 

 

 

 

I am working on the main deck staircase. The staircase is secured in place and the upper and lower banister rails are cut. Since both the lower and upper rails have to match perfectly, each was cut and matched into a pair. The lower are secured to the deck and the upper sections are laying next to them. Next up is to place the stanchions and then the upper rail sections.
 
Vince P.

I added the framing for the main deck gratings and staircase.
The grating frame was made with 3x2mm walnut standing up on the 2mm side.
The staircase frame was made with 5x1.5mm walnut laying flat. Both frames were stained with one coat of red oak.
 
**note: The plans call for an opening of 32mm square for the gratings. Make sure to leave a small lip of planking on the edges running along the ship's length for the gratings to rest on. Also, keep the square openings at 33mm or less because the gratings when assembled are just a pinch over 33mm. They will fall through anything larger than 33mm.
 
Next up: Placing the main staircase and constructing the bannisters.
 
Vince P.

Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

A small update - finished the lower shroud ratlines on the starboard side.I like to give them a slight natural looking droop.
 

 

 
/Mark

Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

I have been using this electric plank bender for many years. It was made by Aeropiccola. It is basically a 50 watt soldering iron with a head shaped like a comma & an adjustable clamp so you can make the bend as tight as you need to.
 

 
/Mark
 
 

I am reiterating a point I made earlier about this kit because I feel it is very important. Although this model is called a "Kit", it really is not a true kit. They call it a kit because it comes with a complete set of plans (a very nice set), and the materials needed to construct it. It does NOT however come with an instruction manual, as most true kits do. When building her, you are working off the set of plans only, just like with a scratch build. Without a detailed instruction manual, you have to plan ahead before doing things so as to avoid problems. Case in point: I stated in my last post that the next thing to do was place the main deck staircase and build the banisters. In looking ahead I also noticed that the main deck decorative bulkhead needed to be placed soon as well. Because of the concave shape of the hull sides where the bulkhead is placed, it is necessary to lay it flat on the deck and slide and wiggle it into place and then stand it up and attach it to the wood frame. However, with the staircase in close proximity to this bulkhead, if you place the staircase first, you can not slide the bulkhead along flat on the deck to get it in place. So I had to change the order of things and prepare and place the bulkhead first, before working on the staircase. In the photos, I just placed the staircase into the hole without securing it yet.
Most experienced builders would know these things, but others could get into trouble. I am far from an expert and just want to help those that might want to build this ship.
 
Vince P.

A small update - finished the lower shroud ratlines on the starboard side.I like to give them a slight natural looking droop.
 

 

 
/Mark

Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

I have been using this electric plank bender for many years. It was made by Aeropiccola. It is basically a 50 watt soldering iron with a head shaped like a comma & an adjustable clamp so you can make the bend as tight as you need to.
 

 
/Mark
 
 

I have been using this electric plank bender for many years. It was made by Aeropiccola. It is basically a 50 watt soldering iron with a head shaped like a comma & an adjustable clamp so you can make the bend as tight as you need to.
 

 
/Mark
 
 

A small update - finished the lower shroud ratlines on the starboard side.I like to give them a slight natural looking droop.
 

 

 
/Mark

Mark,
 
Beautiful work on your masts, caps and rigging. Looks super nice.
 
MIchael

Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark

Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
/Mark