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cdrusn89

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Everything posted by cdrusn89

  1. cdrusn89
    When I assembled the "fighting tops" and started adding the blocks under the top for the clew, leach and bunt lines my intention was to use some extra blocks that I made up when rigging the cannons. Those blocks used wire strops and had hooks (made from twisting the wire on either side of then block together at the top and then forming a hook from the twisted wire. After thinking about it again, I decided to use rope strop and rig the blocks through the eye bolts instead of hooks. I can imagine a block coming unhooked or the hook breaking (don't ask me how I know about these things) at some point near the end of rigging where getting in there would not be very easy. The lower shrouds, topmast shrouds, carpathians, and some other stuff will all be in the way. So here are the blocks under one side of the platform, doubles on the outside per the plans. Still working on getting the depth of field worked out on the macro lens. At about two feet from the subject I can't get both the front and back of the platform in focus at the same time.
  2. cdrusn89
    The final yardarm (Main Royal) complete, or as complete as I am going to make it before it is installed on the mast. And this is the first picture not taken with my iPhone X. Form now on I will try and capture photos using my Canon 60D with 100mm Macro Lens. Hopefully my model making skills will be forced increase since the pictures are more likely to show the flaws with the increased resolution and sharpness (I can't tell much difference on the computer screen but maybe those of you with higher resolution displays can see some difference. According to the site this picture is about twice the size (4 Meg) of the typical iPhone photo (2 Meg). I am going to concentrate for the next few days on serving the line needed for the shrouds, starting with the topmast shrouds since I in tend to assemble the masts from the top down, at least until that proves unworkable for some reason.
  3. cdrusn89
    Completed one (Fore since the braces lead aft) Royal Yard. Included the parrel, halyard, lifts and the clew blocks. One more yard to go. I also started to serve the shrouds. I decided to completely serve the forward most shrouds at all three levels on both masts. These are the ones most likely to be chafed by the yards. For the others I will serve the portions that wrap around the mast and over the bolsters. Am considering what to do about serving the stays. The Main and Fore Stays and Preventers were, I think, served their entire lengths so I am preparing to do that. I would think the stays that actually carry sails (like the Flying Jib Stay) would have at least the portion of the stay that carries the sail served as the hanks would be a constant source of chafe with each variation in the wind speed or direction. Also some of the stays (Fore Top Gallant for instance) have a sheet line that crosses of the stay which would also tend to chafe the stay as the sheet lines move with the sail. I have the Syren Servo-Matic and can serve a 15" length of .035 line (shroud size) in about 15 minutes. I hang the lines up with a 4oz fishing sinker attached and apply another coat of 50/50 glue-water and let it hang while it dries. You have to coil the line on the Servo-Matic (it does about 7" of line at a time) and this leaves some bends in the served line that seems to come out if you let it hang awhile. One more yardarm to go!!
  4. cdrusn89
    I got the second TG Yard outfitted today so I have the two Royal yards yet to go. Based on a preliminary look at the plans they should be the easiest of all. Here are both yards with the lift lines and halyards already attached. I spent part of yesterday putting the bunt and leach line thimbles on those yards. I have decided to put the blocks for these lines on the mast/shrouds but tie off the lines at these thimbles (so I have 6 more thimbles on each course yard, and two on each TG yard which I thought I just finished). On the Top Sail yards I used .010 wire and a 1/16 Bluejacket bull eye for the thimble. That was a challenge getting the wire threaded around the bulls eye. If I have to do 18 more I think I will just form an eye in the end of the wire. It seemed like it was way more effort than is warranted. So on to the Royal Yards
  5. cdrusn89
    Spent most of the day (except for that afternoon nap) working on the Fore Top Gallant Yard. I think I got all the blocks and line required installed and will move to the Main TG Yard tomorrow. Two pictures below show the yard in two stages of completion. With and without the lift and halyard. I used .010 annealed steel wire for the stirups on this yard instead of the Syren line as I did on the lower yards. Seems to look okay and I will consider this for future builds. Getting an eye in the Syren line that is small and not too noticeable is something I have not mastered. Especially difficult when you get to the smaller (.012 and .008) sizes.
  6. cdrusn89
    I took a few days off to accompany some friends from the frozen North (Minnesota) on a short cruise to the Bahamas and upon return found that whatever the issue with the pictures has apparently been resolved. I can get the pictures into the preview frame successfully at any rate. I did however get the Canon 100mm macro lens for my digital SLR but it is going to take some practice (and finally reading the camera manual) before I can get the picture I intend. So no work has gotten done for a week but the shipyard has reopened and I think I remember what I was doing - yardarms I think.
  7. cdrusn89
    I tried to upload some old photos from my Canon EOS 60D (about 4-5 Megs each) and have run in to the same problem. Not sure what I can do at this point but assume it is a site problem that hopefully gets fixed sometime soon.
  8. cdrusn89
    I also tried using both Safari and Firefox and got the same results with both so it is not a browser issue. Something is different with the photo images but I have no idea what that might be.
  9. cdrusn89
    I turned the "Auto HDR" button (under Settings/Camera) off and the "Keep Normal Photo" on. In settings/camera/formats I changed from "High Efficiency" to "Most Compatible". Turned HDR off with the controls at the top of the camera screen. I took a photo and it loaded successfully - I made the above notations, took another photo without changing anything and this one failed to load. On my way to Amazon to get a macro lens - this is maddening.
  10. cdrusn89
    Brian, I have been using the same cell phone with (as best I know) the same settings since I started this build last June. I am at a complete loss (and I fancy myself somewhat of a computer geek) to explain why the pictures uploaded one day and then not the next.
  11. cdrusn89
    SW update to iPhone did not resolve the problem. At a loss for what to try next.
  12. cdrusn89
    So that seems to indicate the issue is with my iPhone. I am updating my iPhone to the latest software version. I find it hard to believe that could be the issue but I am running out of other potential causes. This may force my hand to buy a macro lens for my Canon EOS 60D. Although even clearer sharper pictures (which already seem to exaggerate the flaws) may not be all that good a thing.
  13. cdrusn89
    I took a photo with my iPad and emailed it to myself and then tried to post it and it successfully got to the upload box. I will press submit shortly and we will see what happens.
  14. cdrusn89
    I am having trouble posting photos for some reason. When I try to upload a photo (taken with the same camera (iPhone X) in the same way as every other photo I have taken for this site I get the "There was a problem processing the uploaded file. -200" notice. I can (apparently - i.e. the file uploads normally to the preview box) photos taken before yesterday but nothing since. I am going to use a different camera and see what happens then.
  15. cdrusn89
    Having resolved to maintain the topsail yards without the batten I am proceeding to "populate" the Fore Topsail yard. I cannot find anything in the plans or instructions that would indicate a difference in arrangement/requirements from the main except that the brace blocks tend aft instead of forward so am proceeding accordingly.
  16. cdrusn89
    Forgot the Topsail Yard Halyard - three 5/32 S blocks, two in the topsail mast cross trees and one in the center of the yard. I also added the Topsail yard truss although it needs to be completed when the yard is hung on the mast. I have all the pieces there just needs to be adjusted to fit the mast. Needs to be big enough now to slide up from the bottom of the topsail mast. While adding the halyard block on the yard and the truss I decided to modify (actually I built a new one from scratch) my yard holder to provide for holding the yard in the center or on either side of center.
  17. cdrusn89
    Main Topsail Yard blocks and lines appear to be: 1/8 S - brace (P&S) on 10mm pendant - at chocks 3/32 S Top Gallant Sheet (P&S) - inboard 3/32 S Top Gallant Sheet (P&S) - at chocks seized into TopSail lift line 5/32 SB Topsail Clew (P&S) with Topsail Clew line in Becket - inboard Topsail Lift (.018) line (P&S) - seized at chocks Topsail Reef (.018) line (P&S) - knotted at sheave at yard end (not included until later) So here is the Main Topsail Yard in its resting place until needed. I have not gotten the parrel/truss figured out yet. I built the yard assuming no batten but am beginning to thing maybe I should have included it. I will work on the other yards while I reconsider that decision.
  18. cdrusn89
    Main course yard complete including the yard portion of the sling (and I made and installed the fore course yard sling too). Now on to the Topsail yards.
  19. cdrusn89
    One lesson learned (at least for the way I am doing things) from the Fore Course Yard was that it is easier to put the blocks that go inboard of the tips and the foot rope stirrups on before the jackstay is installed. Two less line to have to weave the block attachments through. I made up all the blocks that will be installed on the Main Course Yard (I can't find anything to indicate that they are different from the Fore Course) and laid them out on my holder. Here the jackstay, foot rope stirrups and the inboard blocks are installed. The stirrups have been treated with 50/50 glue and water and the clamps are holding the stirrups straight while they dry.
  20. cdrusn89
    Looks good - I did not use any buff paint. If the instructions said buff I left it "bright". I also cheated on the deck furniture and moved the companionway aft and used grating in place of the salon and Capt skylights. Do not see how you could use the capstan with those structures as shown. They probably do not use it on the replica but I am trying to get what IMHO the Niagara might have looked like when built.
  21. cdrusn89
    Completed rigging the fore course yard. Jackstay, two foot ropes and ten blocks. P/S Braces (5/32 Single) P/S Clew Garnets (1/8" Single) P/S Reef Tackle (5/32 Single) P/S Lower Yard Lifts (5/32 Single + 5/32 Clump Block) Here are two pictures of the yard in my newly modified "yard holder" (moved the clamp up and out to support having weights on the footrope stirrups to hold them in the vertiucal while the 50/50 glue/water mix sets.
  22. cdrusn89
    I am with you Dwight. 50 is really cold here in Central Florida.
  23. cdrusn89
    Main and spanker masts are now complete (except for the metal band around the boom rest - I just noticed that it is missing) including the two blocks (and running line) for the spanker gaff throat halyard (or halliard as it is spelled some places). Now on to the yards and their appendages (after I get the metal band in place).
  24. cdrusn89
    Tom, You are welcome to it. I am planning on doing that for all the yards, assuming there is enough material left at the top of the top Gallant mast to support a pin. It is pretty thin up there. Have you dug out from the big snow?
  25. cdrusn89
    With the fore top installed I looked over the plans and it appears there are five eyebolts needed on the fore top to support tackles of various configurations. I believe they are: Main Top Gallant Stay Port Side aft of mast (aom) Fore Reef Tackle Port side aom Fore Reef Tackle Stbd side aom Fore Top Gallant Yard Halyard Port side aom Main Royal Stay Tackle Stbd side aom So that is three eyebolts on the port side and two on starboard. Spacing is going to be a challenge as all have 1/8" single blocks (with becket) attached. I left them a little fair of the fighting top surface to make it easier to thread the blocks in when the time comes.

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