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Scottish Guy

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Everything posted by Scottish Guy

  1. Thank you soo much @wefalck, will have a search and will annoy Google a bit lol Micha
  2. I never became a master on it, my apprenticeship was with Mercedes Benz. To be honest, for model building and scale works I think some vice with balls and some good hammers will do the job. But that´s just my opinion. I doubt that the few things we would make in model building will justify the price for a benchtop english wheel (roughly GBP 400.00). But like I stated, that is just my opinion. Micha
  3. Amazing work, that is a size (scale) I doubt I would even see. I wear glasses since I was two years old and unfortunately my eyesight is delining since I´m 40, now I´m almost 56 and my eyesight is bad (need reading glasses and normal glasses). So this work I never could do though. Great job... Micha
  4. I don´t know what kind of machine you are talking about, during my apprenticeship as a car mechanic I worked with something like that... we used those to reproduce fenders or other body parts for the cars when they needed repair after crashes. I´m pretty sure you get benchtop models of those for around USD 250.00 / GBP 200.00. Don´t know how good those are, the machine we used was an industrial machine, therefore it worked very well but requieres some experience and training. It looks easy but to archive what you want it requires some practise and experience. I had three years time during my apprenticeship to learn it under supervision of some trainers. Micha
  5. Thank you for the link Joachim, unforutnately the figures there are way to modern or most likely for the LotR universe, as long as I don´t want orcs on my viking ship ^^ it will be hard to adapt those to the viking style. Also I need merchants and not warriors which makes it a bit harder. Some of the figures would be easy to adapt as warriors but not really as merchants. Danke fuer den Link. Leider sind die meisten Figuren zu modern oder eher fuer das LotR Universum ausgelegt und solange ich keine Orcs auf meinm Wikingerschiff moechte ^^ wird es ein wenig kompliziert diese anzupassen. Ich braeuchte Kaufleute und keine Krieger was es schwierig macht. Einige Figuren waeren ganz gut als Krieger umzusetzen aber nicht als Kaufleute. Micha
  6. My best experiences in that small sizes are with HSS Makita and Bosch drill bits (here in Europe / UK). Really good are Dormer, especially Cobalt drill bits. But those are very expensive and hard to get (at least below 1mm). The Bosch ones are not the cheapest but cheap enough to buy them in bulk (10 packs). The Makita are as good as well but more expensive and still break as easy as Bosch or other brands. A steady hand with hand drills is key in my experiene or using a drill press (where you can attach your power drill or battery drill into). I have the Dremel 8220 and in combination with the Workstation it is a nice and steady drill. The holder is turnable so you can use it in different angles. The workstation was about GBP 55.00 for me, don´t know the current prices but any Dremel will work in it, you don´t need the battery Dremel, the corded Dremel 3000 will work as well. Micha
  7. Wondering if anybody has some memories and experiences of Screamin´Models? I still have, unfortunately damaged though because of the big moves, some of their models (built in the 1980`s). I was wondering if someone knows what happened to the company and if their models are still available? I know that there are some available on eBay but they often look incomplete (missing parts) ot wihtout instructions (which not always would be an issue) but also with horrific price expectations. I built myself 1/6 Scale Jason goes to Hell (Friday the 13th) 1/4 Scale Ash (Army of Darkness) Freddy Kruger (Nightmare on Elmstreet) Leatherface (The Texas Chainsaw Massacre) The Cryptkeeper (Tales from the Crypt) Pinhead Cenobite (Hellraiser) never could be bothered with Michael Meyers (Halloween) and definitely NOT with Elvira (Mistress of Darkness) - just thought she looks ugly and doesn´t match Cassandra Peterson (actress of the movie). Micha
  8. What job are you trying to archive? What exactly do you need the files for? About the money? Tell me lol, I wish sometimes to win the lottery because going to work hardly pays the bills nowadays ^^ The kit is "Currently not available" here in the UK.
  9. Unfortunately I´m not very good with Blender, never really got into it which I pay for now... I know folks that can do amazing things with Blender but I´m not one of those "nerds" lol... I adore folks that can use it, I really do
  10. That is exactly my problem, most of them look very odd and are most likely not usable for a merchant ship but for a battlefield. But thank you anyway Ian for helping me to find a solution. Micha
  11. I agree with you. Diaomond dust / coarse dust is the drop of diaomond cutting, it`s just waste but sold to manufacturers for "Diamond Files". You get diamond files that are expensive because they are using really good quality high carbon steel or other quality metals as base. Then apply the diamond dust / coarse dust and voila, the diamond file is ready. Some are using less quality steels as a base and apply diamond dust / coarse dust onto it and often, which are the ones really cheap on eBay or Amazon to buy. It takes much more effort to bring the pattern of a file into high carbon steel, some manufacturers are even blunt enough to take less qaulity steel and apply only high carbon steel flakes on the base or bring a small layer of carbon-steel onto the base. It also comes into account if the diamond dust is from synthetic diamonds (industrial produced - LGD(1) like HPHT(2) or CVD(3)) or from natural diamonds (which is more expensive). In this case you can say, you get what you pay for... (1) LGD - Lab(boratory) Grown Diamond standing for artificial produced diamonds (2) HPHT - high pressure high temperature diamonds, produced by using high pressure and high temperature on coal (3) CVD - Chemical Vapour Deposition, a chemical process to produce artificial diamonds
  12. The lowest price I could find was GBP 186.90 plus postage... sorry to say so, but that is not what I`m willing to pay for a book, especially not a used book. I found some in the USA between USD 230.00 - 280.00.
  13. True, they didn´t have covers to protect the crew or goods, so I agree, clothing wouldn´t be exposed to the weather, not even sure about bales of skin or fur. But sacks of seeds or fruits maybe. The rest I agree, might have been stored in barrels.
  14. I thought about the barrels but I was thinking also of carrier bags / sacks and even bales (of fur or skins). I was thinking of a viking ship sailing from a hamlet to another or even from Denmark to Scotland / England. Thank you for that, might try to find out something about 1:24 scaled vikings. I would even be happy if someone can provide 3D printable models (since I have two 3D printers). Micha
  15. I completely agree with this one @genericDave, if the only available option for a beginner doesn´t catch your eye because it is something you don´t like, not fancy or just can´t stand it is not worth trying it. If you have something in mind or that catches your eye try to find a simple version of it (I noticed that there are some ships in different skill levels available), just chose the easiest one if you are a beginner, but just not starting, because none of the "beginner friendly" catches your eye is also wrong. A hobby is not only for fun, it also should bring challenges and also give you space to develop skills and occupy you. Micha
  16. I´m wondering if someone knows if there is a viking crew and freight in scale 1:25 available. Also it should be around the 11th century for my Roar Ege (Skuldelev 3). I tried to find anything online and here in the forum. I can´t really find anything matching. I could find some crew members but in a much smaller scale. I also tried to find out how the freight could have looked like to create my own one, can´t really find much about the freight of a 11th century viking merchant ship. So I was wondering if someone could contribute some knowledge about the look of any freight of this era and what kind of goods the viking would have transported. Micha
  17. I was eyeing with this kit as well but went against it. I have a Dremel 8220 with the flexshaft tool (a smaller handle with a flexible extension shaft) and lots of attachments for carving, sanding and cutting. I also have a load of files (small and large ones) that I don`t think it would beneficial for me. Micha
  18. I just found your LOG, really nice ship and looking great. Thank you for sharing. Micha
  19. I asked Magnus Rassy about blueprints / plans but never just for line drawings, maybe I should specify my request again. I got the answer that their policy forbids to hand over any blueprints since the design is from German Frers (Argentina) and not by Hallberg Rassy themselves. But thank you for the hint with the line drawings, I don´t really need the entire blueprints, the rest I can make out myself from all the pictures and 3D pictures I have of the yacht. Micha
  20. Can´t tell much about No 1 and for No 3 but I have No 2 and I can tell, it hasn´t been much help to me yet. Some of the things I knew already and some are not useful at all to me. But I have to say that the 1st one and the 3rd one sound interesting, especially No 3 sounds really interesting since I previous only worked with plastic models. Gaining knowledge is always a good thing to improve your own skills and models, that`s my humble opinion about it. Unfortunately I can´t say anything about the NRG stick since I`m a member just for a short time myself and don´t have anythign yet from this material. But I can say that every additional source of knowledge, especially when interested in certain eras of shipbuilding (the originals) since procedures, designs and even some methods of building and equipment changed over the centuries. You just can´t compare a yacht from the 19th century with a modern composite or aluminum sail yacht, just not by the materials used. Also shapes of hulls improved over the centuries so yes, additional sources of knowledge and methods might be always good and often neccessary, when you want to be accurate and authentic about your scale model. Just my 2c to this topic... Micha
  21. Just as a general question, would you always replace palstic masts and booms with wooden ones (at least in historic models since some modern yachts and ships have metal masts or even carbon masts)? I´m wondering because in my opinion wooden masts always will look nicer, as long as they are not too grainy and the pores not to big to be out of scale. Just gives a ship "the" authentic finish look though. I know it´s hard to archive, especially for folks like me that are not that much experienced in wood work since I till now always just did plastic models. Micha
  22. Hello @Mark Pearse, I just found your LOG and I have to say what an amazing job you have done. I like the smooth finish of the planking. Also I like the way you found your lines for the hull building. Looking forward to see the project stepping ahead. I myself plan to build a more modern yacht from scratch and unfortunately I can´t get hold of any plans or blueprints (since the original yacht is still in production). Micha
  23. Really nice work and very accurate. Love it and gives me the vibes to one day do a Constellation as well, is a really nice ship, I just don´t like cannons, I prefer merchant ships (like the Cutty Sark). Looking forward to the rest of your build. Micha
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