Scottish Guy

Thank you Keith Micha

I agree to that Phil, some of the answers here helped me a lot already. ALso gave me a lot of inspiration and ideas to solve some of my issues. And yes, it`s always nice to meet folks from around the world Micha

cheers for that

It would be more helpful if the poll (or the results of it) would be visible on top of the thread? Unfortunately I can´t see any results of this poll...

🖖Welcome John to the Model Ship World from the bonny wee Scotland Micha

* Chapter One * Repairs Part Two I checked today my repairs. They look somewhat good but by checking on them I noticed that Part 2A is set off after glueing it. The strange thing is that the offset is different on the front and the end, like the double Part 2A twisted off as I put the clamps on. Unfortunately I didn´t notice it because of the cling film I used to wrap it in. The repair of Part 1F which broke by cutting it out of the sheet went well, also the double sits good on the damaged Part 1F. Now I´m considering to use the laser cut sheet to reproduce / copy the keel from a 2x1ft sheet of plywood with 6 mm thickness (which means I wouldn´t have to glue two identical parts onto each other (since the two parts are each 3 mm thick). Also I would cut the entire keel out of the plywood sheet, so the keel would be one piece instead glued out of four pieces (2x 1F and 2x 2A). Would be interesting to get your opinion folks. Is it worth all of this work or should I just use the parts and sand them to a proper look? I think for stability reasons it would be advised anyway to have the keel in one piece as in four pieces glued together. The keel seems a bit flimsy and woobly. I still will glue on Part 3A / 3F to support the keel in the middle where the four parts are connected. Micha

Hope I don´t step on someones toes now but I don´t like the Artisania Latina Models, also not their scales. Micha

Hi Richard, maybe a bit late but just joined the forum a week ago. I would be interested even if the size would be a bit hard to chew for me (would have to build a model of this size in the garage or garden under a gazebo. But in a smaller size like 1:75 I definitely would volunteer for a trial. I love the Cutty Sark and there is a nice model (with wrong hull design I guess) in 1:75, also the Revell 1:96 is a great size but I don´t really like the plastic kit, but there should be a wooden kit available somewhere though. Micha

Thank you Keith, that would be a more suitable scale also for me. The Cutty Sark is great but 1:40 is way to big for my house ^^, would have to build it in the garden or so which wouldn´t be appreciated. Therefore, if there would be offers for smaller sizes I would be interested. I think the biggest scale I could manage would be 1:75 / 1:72. Micha

I hope everyone accepts my apologies to ask that blunt question, but what is the benefit of being a NRG member? Is it more likely a benefit if you are more interested in older ships or also modern ships? Is it even a benefit for non Americans? Sorry for all those questions, I just want to find out what are the benefits for me as European, most likely interested in modern (1980+) sail yachts and ships even if there is s slight interest in ancient greek / egyptian / viking ships. Micha

An interesting point here, as far as I´m aware some rights on intellectual content are not lasting endless. The different time spans that I´m aware of are... 70 yrs for written content (dramatic, musical or artistic) after death of author 70 yrs for films / movies after death of director, screenplay author and composer 70 yrs for recorded work (music / sound) after publishing 1st time 50 yrs for bradcasts after the 1st broadcasting 25 yrs for layout of published editions of written, dramatic or musical work after 1st time of publishing 20 yrs for patents (must be applied for and being granted) most boat designs don´t fall under the patent rights because they don´t meet the required uniqueness and conditions. A patent only protects technical Inventions / functions but not designs. After 20 yrs the patent becomes public domain. 14 yrs for design patents (must be applied for and being granted), protects only original aspects of the appearance, not the functional aspects of the construction. The design becomes public domain after 14 yrs. 10 yrs by the Vessel Design Protection Act (USA - not EU as far as I know). Registration must be applied for and being granted. You can only use either the VDPA or a Design Patent for the hull, not both. Covers the hull and deck if sufficiently unique. Also only currently on sale and designed hulls are protected / published made available to the public (after 28th October 1998). After the 10 yrs period the design becomes public domain. Therefore some of the older models and plans don´t fall under an protection at all (when my understanding of those regulations and laws is correct. Please correct me when I´m wrong. It also is not helpful that the regulations and laws differ between the USA and Europe / Asia. Even the Smithonian Institute sells plans of ancient ships with the only legal statement saying that they don´t take any responsibility for the outcome what you are building from this plans ^^ Unfortunately some European countries (like the UK) don´t have any protective regulations for boat / ship designs since they don´t count as intellectual content that is protective since the designs and shapes way to equal. That again is a difference between the USA and Europe, we don´t have the V(essel) D(esign) P(rotection) A(ct) here. Micha

Hi Chris, are we allowed to create folders for the build in progress as well or only for the finished models? Since I upload them to the thread about the build I think this would be ok, don´t think it would be neccessary to upload them into a gallery as well (just takes space on the HDD / server). Micha

Hope to see this project going further someday...

Hi folks, a wee update. I talked to the local copy shop guy. We checked the pictures I can provide and he is convinced that he can create prints in the scale 1:20. Meaning he can print the pictures to a size (872 mm). I hope that this would be enough to create a plug (carving by taaking measurement every 2 mm) out of foam (styrodur). We will see how far I can get with this. I know it might not be the most accurate way to get the shape of the hull, but at the moment it is the only way I have available. I know there is a HR57 and two HR50 in Brighton Marina, unfortunately both not on a hard stand but in the water. Right now I don´t have the time and fundings to travel down to have a check on those. SInce the designer of the yachts (German Frers) doesn´t answer my email as well there is not much options left. We will see where I can go from there... Micha

* Chapter One * Repairs Since some of the parts got damaged by cutting them out of the sheets I have to repair them first. I try it by glueing them with CA glue, wrapped in cling foil and clamped to secure the lose parts. Here is Part 9F which is the second rip from the stem. This is Part 7F which is the fourth rip from the stem, it got stuck by pushing it out of the sheet. Unfortunately it twisted and by twisting it back the corner broke off. I used CA glue to fixate it to the main part, wrapped it with cling foil and clamped it. Will give it 24h to dry out. The last part that was broken was the keel from the stem to the middle of the ship. I also used CA glue to fixate the two parts together. Then I used PVA glue to put the two keel parts from the stem together and clamped them. Therefore I give the flimsy keel part some support with the second (identical) keel part. I also glued the stern keel parts together, so when all the keel parts are dried I can assemble the keel and put the two support boards onto the middle of the keel. Thank you all for taking the time to look at the LOG. I hope the pictures are ok and the steps I´m doing are so far ok. Please keep in mind that is the first wooden ship I´m building. If someone spots mistakes or errors in my way to work, please let me know. Micha

Thank yiu for that Chris. I tried to find the buttons for the resizing, never ever thought about double click the image to resize them Micha

Hi James, thank you for the answer, but it still doesn´t allow me to set a size of the picture. Am I right to think that I would have to reduce the size of the shown picture before adding it to the thread? Which means the picture is smaller in size already and therefore smaller. I know that this means as well that details might get lost since reducing the size also means reducing the accuracy of the picture (except when cropping it). Micha

Thank you Keith for this precise answer, this is what I was hopeing for. Doing a scale model is different than building some furniture or building a swing and slide in the garden. Don`t get me wrong, I did already small items and fixed those as well but nothing that has such an elegance or look like a scale model. Therefore I never really thought about different glues when working with wood. Life is a steady learning path, every day something new to learn. I love this challenge of life. Micha

Hi Jaager, thank you for this very detailed comment. I`m honest, I never dived in that deep into glues that I knew all the differences. Since I only will display the model in a diorama, no case or anything around it, in a well aired room, I doubt that any of those points would make a difference. But I still would go for the white PVA glue. I don´t need all the specialties to withstand water or moisture, don`t need it to be extra strong or quick drying. Micha

Thank you Richard, the same here in the UK, the most common one is the white Gorilla Wood Glue, you can get it literally everywhere (Tesco, Asda, B&Q etc.). Also I know it since I work with it for a long time and since everyone agrees with me that it is PVA, I will try it out and stick to it. Thank you again Richard for this great advise, I will always keep that in mind. Micha

Thank you Jaager, I will try to find out about the Titebond, otherwise I will try (maybe on some waste wood from the sheets) how the Gorilla Wood Glue (white) works for me. The Titebind III would be maybe overkill for me since I don´t work on remote models nor on floatable (water bound / used) models. I will maybe display it in a scenery like it will be sailing along a shoreline, but that would be most likely a resin underground for dioramas and not real water ^^ Micha

Thank you Keith, I would like to know what kind of glue to use for the keel / stems and support / frame assembly. Also for the planking later on. I used the last 30 years Gorilla Wood Glue (white) or Ponal (which seems the same stuff as Gorilla Wood Glue just from Henkel). I never used Titebond (none of it) before and occasionally CA, mostly for plastic models. Micha

So you would avoid Gorilla Wood Glue? Now I´m confused lol... the best results I ever had was with Ponal from Henkel but not that easy (cheap) to get in the UK. So the blunt question here... what should I use? 1. Gorilla Wood Glue (white) 2. Ponal (white) 3. Titebond (which one explicite II or III) 4. CA glue

Thank you for that Keith, didn´t think about the Saran Wrap... I would just have glued it and put some clapms on... thank you for the advise Micha

Thank you Jaager, thought so. Will give it a go.