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Everything posted by Scottish Guy
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I always sprayed the parts before attaching them, so I would spray a deck before attaching it to the hull, means some points you might have to sand again to have a rough surface to give the glue some grip but that`s how I did it with all my space ships. ABout the colour, I prefer matte instead of gloss. Especially with wood I would use matte, never have seen shiny wood to be honest. But that is just my humble opinion. Micha
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Bending hard brass.
Scottish Guy replied to navarcus's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I agree with you Bob, a picture would be helpful. But I think he´s talking baout a boat like that (even if you can´t see the hull properly on that picture. There have been model ships sold as Hartman Bunker Boat which were based on the Menhaden Fishing Trawler (1900 - 1920) The USCG used those as well as. There is a Wikipedia Log for the SP-328 USS Margaret which is also based on a Menhaden Fishing Trawler (1912-1919). I guess hes talking about one of those. But since we can´t see the hull I just don´t know exactly what he want´s to know, therefore I can´t provide any help. Micha -
Good luck with that, I´m just not a fan from the plastic sails. I have seen a model today (I visited the charity shop that sells the Revell kit) and I just don´t like the plastic sails. But this is a decision everyone has to make themselves. I know that most folks don´t use them, so maybe when painted and weathered properly, acurately cut out they might look good. It´s just my personal choice and decision... you can give it a go anyway, if you then don´t like it you still can change to fabric or the EZE sheets. Micha
- 106 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- plastic
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Thank you Bob, I need all the kind words right now as a boost . I didn´t expect it that complicated (but my own fault, to chose the wrong kit from the wrong manufacturer) but I love the challenge, keeps my brain working and fresh lol I will try my best to make it a nice and good looking model but I don´t make nay promises Micha
- 141 replies
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- Roar Ege
- Billing Boats
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Let me say that I like the anchor hanging in there. Looks so cool. The entire ship is just an amazing piece of work. Looks beautiful. Kudos to you. I bow my head and wish that my builds come out hopefully at least half the way yours does. Micha
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That´s why we live in a small fishing village just outside of Elgin. I love it here, three minutes walk to the harbour and both beaches (east and west beach). I love walking down there, watching dolphins passing by (sometimes not even three meter from the quay) and the fishing boats going out. JUst listening to the waves is sooo soothing... and the smell... That might be but I´m not sure if they offer any of the ships I would like to build and with Vanguard I´m pretty sure I can´t afford those right now. Syren I never found to be honest. Tried a couple of times to find a set but can´t find a homepage from the manufacturer. Micha
- 125 replies
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- Trial
- Vanguard Models
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* Chapter Four * Change of Plan - The Jig needs Adjustments Since you good folks suggested I should turn the ship around to put the planking on I needed another approach for my self made (crappy) jig. I took two sticks and took the molds (4 and 6A / 6F) off the spine again. Then I glued the molds in a 90 degree angle to the sticks, beginning from the center mold (4), waited till dried up then glued on mold 6A again in 90 degree angle and the required 73 mm from part 4. After this was dried I glued mold 6F also 73 mm from part 4 onto the 2 sticks. After everything was dried up I checked the distances between the molds on the sticks and on the bottom (in real on the top). Then I put the molds 9A and 9F loose onto the sticks in 103 mm each from molds 6A and 6F. Since they will bend the beam slightly I didn’t glue those on, I just wanted to make sure the beams are not too short. Then I attached the entire skeleton onto the spine in the jig. Put the molds 9A and 9F in place and pressed the skeleton in place with the molds clasping onto the spine with the catches on the bottom. Mold 4 fits in snuggly onto the mast support and keeps the skeleton secured in place. Now I have to build a jig or block that lifts the entire build up enough that the stem and stern are not touching the ground. That will be my next step, so that I can turn the entire build upside down to put the planking on. Micha
- 141 replies
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Got you, should start learning stuff like that myself sailing ships are different to space ships (they don´t have rigging or masts) but I´m looking forward to it. I always loved sail boats / ships / yachts. Hence why I started sailing and windsurfing. I loved the two Atlantic crossings and would like to do one more or even a circumnavigation before I hit 80... But yeah, I really have to learn about rigging and ratlines myself. Since my scratch build of the HR 50 / 57 has to be postponed till I found a solution for creating the hull I might start with a Cutty Sark or the build as Ferreira and with a Barquantine rigging (looks really interesting). Micha
- 125 replies
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Sorry, but my eyes are not the best any more, was not sure if you tied them up already or if they all are just kept in place for the moment. So it´s not a big deal anyway. Cool. But looks really nice Micha
- 125 replies
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Now that looks amzing, nice job she will turn out very well done... Micha
- 106 replies
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- Cutty Sark
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Looks pretty neat Simon. Well done. I didn´t have that much success but even I got a bit further with my build. In picture 5, does it just look like or are the two right lines twisted in the upper part (close to the outrigger)? Like I said before, I´m not an expert on rigging or ratlines but does it matter if it would be twisted or is it easy enough to un-twist it? Micha
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As long as it doesn´t turn into an infestion it is cool ^^ 🤣 nice detail to be honest... A fantastic work you have done here... I really love it. Looks good. Micha
- 109 replies
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- Ghost Ship
- Jenny
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I know what you say, I got my thoughts about it as well. I don´t really cry for the glue or paints and the 1959 kit comes without sails anyway. It also is missing any metal parts which came just wtht he 1969 kit. It´s more likely the price. The kit is not complete but the guy wants GBP 89.00 for it. That is the point why I´m so relcutant. If the kit would be complete (even if useless) I would pay it but not for a kit that is not even complete. After all the thinking I tend anyway to buy a wooden model (most likely the Sergal kit, even if I´m eyeing with the Billing Boats kit as well). I would do a lot of my own stuff anyway. Maybe, when I can get hold of some proper plans even do scratch build. I also still have an offer from a charity for a Revell 2017 kit (complete but the box is damaged and taped) for GBP 60.00. SO yes, not sure what to do but atm I´m more drawn to a wooden kit than a plastic kit. Micha
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I´m happy for you, I still can´t get hold of it, at least not for a reasonable price atm. If I want to spend USD 200 it`s fine but I´m not willing to spend that much atm for a book, I would rather spend it in a new kit or some tools (I still have to fill up the garage with some nice tools ^^ ) Micha
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I can tell you, the instructions read sometimes as a Chinese instruction, translated by a Japanese who is originated in India and then tried to let his French wife translate it. (Sorry for the rant but I would have expected at least a proper instruction manual, but these few pages, not even in order properly and mist likely only copies is a bit disappointing. But I go on with it... challenge accepted Thank you for that kind words Eric. Gives me a boost but yes, challenge accepted, I don´t like giving up, some tell me it´s my crux, I think it´s a gift. I think it depends on the point of view lol but my grandpa told me all the time, when there is a will there is a way... you just have to find it... Micha
- 141 replies
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That is what I tried to tell you in my very complicated way lol 🤣 hope you can forgive me. I have seen myself some really bad weather conditions on a 38 ft sail boat and it wasn´t a pleasure at all. That´s why it took me another 4 yrs before I did the 2nd Atlantic crossing and not yet dared the Pacific or a circumnavigation since the Pacific is much rougher than the Atlantic. But I still adore your dedication to help this guy out with his dreams / wish. My deepest respect for that. Micha
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Welcome at MSW and nice work so far. Looking forward to see the progress on this one. For the colours of the masts? There are different colour schemes I think since the masts even have been replaced over time. Here is a picture by Prayash Panthi from the current Cutty Sark in Greenwich at the museum. This is just rebuild after burnt down twice so if the colour scheme they used is acurate? I don´t know. But when you search in the LOGs you can find some really well done jobs of the Cutty Sark in different styles, plastic and wood and even scratch builds. Depends on your preference tbh. Maybe one of the best builds here from Bruma Micha
- 14 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- clipper
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Hi Ryan and welcome aboard at MSW. Hope you will archive what you planned to archive and have fun... Micha
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Garage workshop
Scottish Guy replied to Frank Burroughs's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wood should always be stored in a dry and well temperated (aired) area, you can even stock it outside, as long as it is under a roof and aired. But I personally (since we work with much smaller scales and sizes) keep my stock in the garage (fortunately it is heated and is easy to access by a door from my utility room). I most likely have plywood or other wood sheets of 2x1 ft or maximum 3x2 ft in different thickness (2 - 6 mm) so easy to store, the thicker ones I separate with little sticks so they don´t touch each other, the smaller sheets 300 x 210 mm I store in a little shelf in my room, i don´t separate them or anything, just like paper stacks I stack them in the shelf. I don´t like the wood outside because it starts getting wavy and sometimes even soften up because of the moist. Micha -
That is exactly my issue right now. By the same mould used I would say the earlier the better, but what about parts included. I know that the 1959 kit came with glue and paints but as it looks without any metal parts and only the ratlines, no other ropes. The 1969 kit should have gotten the metal parts but not the lines and got rid of the glue and paints. I don´t know what to do, at the end of the day, I would love the 1959 kit, I would have changed some aprts anyway with more detailed parts, like the deck and chains. But the price of that model is way too high for all the missing items and condition of the box. Micha
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Thank you for that Steven, I like that one, positioned correctly on the ship it looks maybe really good. There is a way to do it, leaning against the mast for example. Really cool, thank you. I get your point here lol and yes, drinking that way would be a bit... "wet" but hey ho as a sailor it always is wet hahaha Micha
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