Scottish Guy

Maybe it would be best to find proper plans and do a scratch build of it, I just love the Cutty Sark, don´t know why. There are some other nice clippers and schooners as well. Micha

I think you are doing a great job to be honest, especially for a "rookie". I think somehow we are all rookies or have been one at some point. I have done tons of plastic models and now working on my first wooden model. So still a rookie ^^ Micha

I know Keith but I have the luxury to live in a three bedroom bungalow with my wife and myself, I have my own hobby room (bedroom) and the garage for the things I like to do and collect. I also have a nice living room with lots of free space (yet) which likes to be filled as well. Also I just prefer larger models than smaller. But I agree, with more models built it might get some... crowded over time but we are not there yet. Micha

I have the same picture of her Johnny, but I´m still not keen on the plastic model. I´m still more interested in the wooden version (even if I don´t know which manufactuer I should chose since there are four of them). But I still have this offer for GBP 60.00 for the Revell kit 1:96 and it still is in my mind, with some extra effort to "pimp" it up it might be a nice alternative to the wooden versions. Which wooden version would you guys suggest anyway? Billing Boats (BB564 Cutty Sark 1869) in 1:75 Artesania Latina (Tea Clipper Cutty Sark 1869) in 1:84 Mantua (612 Le Picolle) in 1:100 Sergal (789 Cutty Sark 1869) in 1:78 Sergal (791 Thermopylae 1906) in 1:124 My favorite size would be the Billing Boats (but the quality of this set is my convern since the Roar Ege) but by the look and quality the Sergal or the AL looks good as well. I prefer larger sized models, don´t know why but the small sizes like 1:124 or even smaller like 1:220 are not my thing. Micha

Good luck with the model, looking forward to it Micha

And David, you are doing a great job. I´m still considering the Revell Cutty Sark but I´m more eyeing a wooden version of it. Don´t know why, but I have a really good offer for a boxed Revell Cutty Sark for only GBP 60, the box is damaged but complete and all parts are ok, nothing is missing and nothing is broken. Micha

I have to say, I still have four years left to see the 60 or the 6 in front of my age... but I´m getting there and the health conditions count up lol... but as long as I can I will do this hobby and I will try to build as many as possible before it´s impossible to do... Micha

I know that Mark, it’s just the feeling that you only see always the same members, same with answers, it’s most likely the same people answering to posts I know there are more, even more online but that’s how it seems sometimes … that’s just me…

Great work and I like that wee boat. Really well done and looks amazing. Looking forward to see the rest of the story. Micha

* Chapter Two * The building a supporting Frame Just a wee update for you guys. I´m building a supporting frame for the keel, so it will be easier to put the ribs in place. Since all keel parts are glued already I can´t build the ship no longer as suggested in the instructions (two halves) but in one piece. Therefore I build that slip / support frame to put the keel into it. I marked all spots where the frames will be placed and I will build holders to keep the ribs in the marked placed and in a 90 degree angle to the ground. Unfortunately I don´t have any pictures about that. I might put some in later on. * Chapter Two * A New Beginning - The Start I used copies of the original plans to cut out the keel parts 1F and 2A from 6 mm cherry wood sheets. I glued the paper copies onto the wood sheets and used a flet saw to cut them out. Then I used paper copies for the ribs 10F to 5F and 10A to 5A to cut them out from 3 mm cherry wood sheets. The parts 9F / 9A, 6F / 6A and 4 are designed as bulkheads, the original Skuldelev 3 doesn´t have bulkheads, so I decided to use the other ribs as pattern to cut the bulkheads in the same shape of a rib but with the width the bulkheads had. I cut them out in the outer shape of the bulkheads and didn´t create the beams and knees since I can´t make out which size they should have (maybe I try this out with the knees I have for the other ribs - not sure yet). I didn´t do many pictures of this work but will put in some pictures later (before assembling). When you follow this LOG you will have noticed that at the end of the LOG I will have two ships (the original Billings Boat and my own more realistic scratch build). I have to cut out the planks as well, for the planks I´m not certain yet if I will use playwood or will use the cherry as well. Depending on the effort since the cherry seems a bit harder than the plywood. Maybe you guys can give me advise here. Micha

Very well explained Simon, I couldn´t have explained it better but I never mastered the skills lol, I mean, you could recognise what I tried to archive but I never could have mastered parts for oldtimer for example, more likely lorries lol...

That´s what I would try first before spending money and space for something you might never again use. I always try to assess if I need the device only once or twice or if I maybe even can use it for other jobs (outside the scale model world). The Dremel for example I can use ofr many things, not only scale models. So it was worth the money (I use it also for my typewriter and camera repairs / restaurations). Hope it will work out for you Jerome, if you have questions about the hammer method just drop me a line or a pm. Micha

I never had issues with that and the ones you are using, I know those, have two of those myself but with my arthitis I can´t rally twist the wrist properly to use them and my hands het shaky very quick. I have no issues to fix the part I want to drill in. If it really needs to be accurate I use the Dremel Workstation or a benchtop drill press from Makita (20 yrs old) which works fine with the matching Makita corded drill (30 yrs old) which I can adjust from 15 - 2,200 rpm. They don´t build drills like that anymore nowadays lol but it still works, changed already two times the brushes in it. My problem is really the hand and wrist, doesn´t work anymire like 30 yrs ago

I know it´s "THE" best available hobby knife in the US, I worked with one as I was spending some time in South Carolina (Greenville / Greer) years ago. Unfortunately I never took the knife with me lol. You can get them sometimes here on Amazon but barely and often only reduced in equipment that comes with the knife, most likely only the knife itself. I like the "Professional Hobby Knife Set" for USD 47.03 on the Excel Homepage I will find a way ^^ and if I ask the sister of my wife (she lives near Chicago) if she could send me one over, not sure if this will work nowadays... but thank you anyway Phil Micha

Just wondering, why not using an archimedian mini drill? My Dremel is not always the best solution, even with the Workstation because it is too fast even with 5,000 rpm and unfortunately there is no reduction gearbox available to lower the rpm below 5,000 rpm. Then I use an archimedian mini drill, I have issues with a standard manual mini drill to turn it all the times, which I jst push down all the times very gentle... Works for me very well but I have to admit, when possible I use the Dremel ^^ Micha

Hello John and welcome to MSW. Nice looking model and I hope you find all the answers you are looking for

I hope they are successful hehe but I agree with you, it was worth becoming a member. As you I started with the basic membership but I will increase that next year to get the physical edition of the magazine additional to the digital edition. Are you sure about the number of MSW members? WHen I check the forum I always read the same names ^^ and that are less than 1,000 and about the age thing... I´m glad it makes you feel that way 👍 Micha

That is a good option though but I would suggest book paper (120-200 gsm), bond paper / copy paper (70-100 gsm) could work when you use the high end copy paper (100 gsm). I´m not sure if it makes a difference if you use coated (thin layer of clay - used to archive high resolution prints for pictures etc.) or uncoated paper. Also I´m not sure if it is a point if gloss or matte but I doubt that this makes a difference, satin could be maybe make a difference because satin can be water repellent (depending on the qualitiy of the paper) so it might also not work with the glue. Which also becomes quiet sturdy is normal newspaper (snippets of newspaper) mixed in water (not too much, you can add water to get a creamy consitency) and then add wallpaper adhesive (powder) or some PVA (don´t use it for wallpapers (makes them wavy and falling fo the walls maybe).

I would love to get hold of one, they are selling this nice set of three (professional or something like that). Unfortunately in the UK they don´t know about Excel Knives. You get a single one with a soft grip (which sounds amazing) but when you try to buy it I often get the message not delivered into the Highlands

Thank you for that Glen, really appreciate that Micha

Welcome at MSW Klas, I hope you will find here what you are looking for and expect... greetings from Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Micha

Any suggestions about a nice wooden three-masted model? Most ones I can find are two-masted...

Get that one but I started a long time ago with Canon, so no need to change. I have quiet some L lenses (which I collected over the years).

Get you there and a ken, but unfortunately we did the opposite way, we moved into a 3 bedroom bungalow with garage (my wife is disabled and can´t use steps anymore) so it`s hard to stop collecting LEGO lol, she even supports me in it. I buy them and fix them / restore them, all my cameras are working or were working once (have not the time to check on them regulary) but some of the older ones I use frequently. For daily use I have a Canon EOS 70D, a 5D Mark III and a Canon EOS 3 SLR and a PowerShot G7X Mark III for video (YouTube).

Hi Glen, that would explain a lot lol, not sure but I think I found this article too, but it looked a bit "dodgy" in my opinion. I was even looking if there is any chance that the name was different, but there are not many 3 mast schooners at all around that time leaving The Isle of Wight in 1822. There have been some ships around 1820 to 1823 but not many three mast schooner and definitely none with the Name "Jenny". The funny fact is, even the whaler "Hope" brings only very strange results. There was a Scottish Whaler which left Peterhead in 1802 sailing to the Greenland but never had a Captain with the name "Brighton". The "Hope" was lost in 1830 in the Davis Strait (roughly 8,900 miles away from the Drake Passage) beside 17 other fishing vessels in this area. Funnily 1823 another 14 vessels were lost around Greenland. So with all that uncertainty I could chose somehow any three mast schooner to "create" my own "Jenny"? Not sure if there are any wooden models out there or plans for a three-mast schooner. The only one that comes in mind is the "Atlantic" and maybe the Virginia (which I don´t like because of the canon).