Scottish Guy

An interesting point here, as far as I´m aware some rights on intellectual content are not lasting endless. The different time spans that I´m aware of are... 70 yrs for written content (dramatic, musical or artistic) after death of author 70 yrs for films / movies after death of director, screenplay author and composer 70 yrs for recorded work (music / sound) after publishing 1st time 50 yrs for bradcasts after the 1st broadcasting 25 yrs for layout of published editions of written, dramatic or musical work after 1st time of publishing 20 yrs for patents (must be applied for and being granted) most boat designs don´t fall under the patent rights because they don´t meet the required uniqueness and conditions. A patent only protects technical Inventions / functions but not designs. After 20 yrs the patent becomes public domain. 14 yrs for design patents (must be applied for and being granted), protects only original aspects of the appearance, not the functional aspects of the construction. The design becomes public domain after 14 yrs. 10 yrs by the Vessel Design Protection Act (USA - not EU as far as I know). Registration must be applied for and being granted. You can only use either the VDPA or a Design Patent for the hull, not both. Covers the hull and deck if sufficiently unique. Also only currently on sale and designed hulls are protected / published made available to the public (after 28th October 1998). After the 10 yrs period the design becomes public domain. Therefore some of the older models and plans don´t fall under an protection at all (when my understanding of those regulations and laws is correct. Please correct me when I´m wrong. It also is not helpful that the regulations and laws differ between the USA and Europe / Asia. Even the Smithonian Institute sells plans of ancient ships with the only legal statement saying that they don´t take any responsibility for the outcome what you are building from this plans ^^ Unfortunately some European countries (like the UK) don´t have any protective regulations for boat / ship designs since they don´t count as intellectual content that is protective since the designs and shapes way to equal. That again is a difference between the USA and Europe, we don´t have the V(essel) D(esign) P(rotection) A(ct) here. Micha

Hi Chris, are we allowed to create folders for the build in progress as well or only for the finished models? Since I upload them to the thread about the build I think this would be ok, don´t think it would be neccessary to upload them into a gallery as well (just takes space on the HDD / server). Micha

Hope to see this project going further someday...

Hi folks, a wee update. I talked to the local copy shop guy. We checked the pictures I can provide and he is convinced that he can create prints in the scale 1:20. Meaning he can print the pictures to a size (872 mm). I hope that this would be enough to create a plug (carving by taaking measurement every 2 mm) out of foam (styrodur). We will see how far I can get with this. I know it might not be the most accurate way to get the shape of the hull, but at the moment it is the only way I have available. I know there is a HR57 and two HR50 in Brighton Marina, unfortunately both not on a hard stand but in the water. Right now I don´t have the time and fundings to travel down to have a check on those. SInce the designer of the yachts (German Frers) doesn´t answer my email as well there is not much options left. We will see where I can go from there... Micha

* Chapter One * Repairs Since some of the parts got damaged by cutting them out of the sheets I have to repair them first. I try it by glueing them with CA glue, wrapped in cling foil and clamped to secure the lose parts. Here is Part 9F which is the second rip from the stem. This is Part 7F which is the fourth rip from the stem, it got stuck by pushing it out of the sheet. Unfortunately it twisted and by twisting it back the corner broke off. I used CA glue to fixate it to the main part, wrapped it with cling foil and clamped it. Will give it 24h to dry out. The last part that was broken was the keel from the stem to the middle of the ship. I also used CA glue to fixate the two parts together. Then I used PVA glue to put the two keel parts from the stem together and clamped them. Therefore I give the flimsy keel part some support with the second (identical) keel part. I also glued the stern keel parts together, so when all the keel parts are dried I can assemble the keel and put the two support boards onto the middle of the keel. Thank you all for taking the time to look at the LOG. I hope the pictures are ok and the steps I´m doing are so far ok. Please keep in mind that is the first wooden ship I´m building. If someone spots mistakes or errors in my way to work, please let me know. Micha

Thank yiu for that Chris. I tried to find the buttons for the resizing, never ever thought about double click the image to resize them Micha

Hi James, thank you for the answer, but it still doesn´t allow me to set a size of the picture. Am I right to think that I would have to reduce the size of the shown picture before adding it to the thread? Which means the picture is smaller in size already and therefore smaller. I know that this means as well that details might get lost since reducing the size also means reducing the accuracy of the picture (except when cropping it). Micha

Thank you Keith for this precise answer, this is what I was hopeing for. Doing a scale model is different than building some furniture or building a swing and slide in the garden. Don`t get me wrong, I did already small items and fixed those as well but nothing that has such an elegance or look like a scale model. Therefore I never really thought about different glues when working with wood. Life is a steady learning path, every day something new to learn. I love this challenge of life. Micha

Hi Jaager, thank you for this very detailed comment. I`m honest, I never dived in that deep into glues that I knew all the differences. Since I only will display the model in a diorama, no case or anything around it, in a well aired room, I doubt that any of those points would make a difference. But I still would go for the white PVA glue. I don´t need all the specialties to withstand water or moisture, don`t need it to be extra strong or quick drying. Micha

Thank you Richard, the same here in the UK, the most common one is the white Gorilla Wood Glue, you can get it literally everywhere (Tesco, Asda, B&Q etc.). Also I know it since I work with it for a long time and since everyone agrees with me that it is PVA, I will try it out and stick to it. Thank you again Richard for this great advise, I will always keep that in mind. Micha

Thank you Jaager, I will try to find out about the Titebond, otherwise I will try (maybe on some waste wood from the sheets) how the Gorilla Wood Glue (white) works for me. The Titebind III would be maybe overkill for me since I don´t work on remote models nor on floatable (water bound / used) models. I will maybe display it in a scenery like it will be sailing along a shoreline, but that would be most likely a resin underground for dioramas and not real water ^^ Micha

Thank you Keith, I would like to know what kind of glue to use for the keel / stems and support / frame assembly. Also for the planking later on. I used the last 30 years Gorilla Wood Glue (white) or Ponal (which seems the same stuff as Gorilla Wood Glue just from Henkel). I never used Titebond (none of it) before and occasionally CA, mostly for plastic models. Micha

So you would avoid Gorilla Wood Glue? Now I´m confused lol... the best results I ever had was with Ponal from Henkel but not that easy (cheap) to get in the UK. So the blunt question here... what should I use? 1. Gorilla Wood Glue (white) 2. Ponal (white) 3. Titebond (which one explicite II or III) 4. CA glue

Thank you for that Keith, didn´t think about the Saran Wrap... I would just have glued it and put some clapms on... thank you for the advise Micha

Thank you Jaager, thought so. Will give it a go.

Damage Report: Unfortunately three pieces got damaged by twisting them out of the sheets. I don`t think it should be a problem, especially not the keel part since it has the two supporting frame parts and is doubled, so it will be supported by its brother ^^. more difficult I see the frame parts where just the small corner broke off, it got stuck as I tried to gentle push it out of the sheet, it twisted and got stuck, as I tried it with some tweezers it just broke same as with 7F happened with 9F, unfortunately 9F is even smaller, still have the hope I can fix it... Will try to glue it on with Superglue and leave it with heavy duty clamps for a day to dry... will report if it worked, if not I have to try to make a copy of those.

Another day in the preparation and ship building of the Roar Ege from Billing Boats in the scale 1:25. I checked all sheets and located and numbered the parts on the wooden sheets. Then I took a cutting chisel to gentle cut the parts out of the sheets. Which is quiet a tough job since the sheets are ver flimsy and wobbly. Also the gaps between the sheet frame and the required ship parts is not that huge that they are easily taken out of the sheets. The parts of the keel the parts of the keel and the support frame parts for the keel in the middle... all parts of the keel, stems and frames (knees) nicely sorted by in order where they belong... I tried to be as gentle as possible and it took me, with a coffee break roughly 60 minutes to get the parts cut out. Also not to forget all small pieces and support parts. I´m pretty sure I did forget some small pieces for No. 4 (some supporting frame parts), but will check that later on. Tomorrow I will sand the edges to get smooth ones and will glue the keel and frame together, I just hope that the damaged parts will be fixed till then. Micha

Thank you Simon, that is in general my experience as well, it turns into clear when dried up (at least the one I use), so I will just use my Gorilla since I still have tons of it at home, just didn´t dare to use it since so many folks praised the CA or PVA stuff. Also thank you for the advise with the Tesco CA stuff, will have a look into it tomorrow as well. Micha

Thank you Richard, looks nice, hope mine comes out that nice as well. I´m sure you would be able to answer one or two questions ^^. I checked already, looks like there is no LOG yet for the Roar Ege (at least I couldn´t find one - but the search didn´t wor for me well at all here, still can´t find a glue thread for wooden models). Micha

I can´t see the option to change the size of the picture? I can see the option to adjust its location (left, center or right) but I don´t see the option to change the size of the picture. As you can see in the snip below, the picture is highlighted and it says the adjustment is to the left, but I don´t see any option to change the size there? Where it says "Size" on the left is just for the size of the text, not the picture. Micha

The only question I have right now is, what kind of glue should I use for the build. I normally use for wood working the Gorilla Wood Glue, I still have some Ponal Wood Glue (Henkel). Both glues I use for "normal " wood working, for cabinet building or any other wood working but not sure if they work with such small items like the ones from the ship building kit. Micha

Unboxing part III - the wooden parts & small pieces < Planking parts > < frame parts and keel > < the small pieces - lines and nails >

Unboxing Part II - bag with instructions < The sealed bag with paperwork / instructions > < the paperwork from the bag - instructions, drawing and warranty > < the instructions - front page > < instructions - first building page > < general drawing of the ship >

Unboxing part I - the kit... here the pictures of the box and the open box. < The box closed > < The box with opened lid > <The opened box with instructions and small pieces taken out > < opened box only with wooden parts (sail, instructions and small pieces in lid) >

Thank you, I agree with it, when you read about their travels, who knows, maybe it was once here on the Scottish Coast somewhere. It will be my first wooden build, have done a few plastic models (only space ships, never real ships) and some resin builds (movie characters like Freddy Kruger, Alien Queen, Predator etc.) but never before a wooden model. We will see how I do lol... Micha