FifeModels
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See now that wasn't too bad was it? Great work though. If I can make one observation and give a little advice for the next time though. On the closed side, you maybe tapered the planks a little too far back from the bow. Generally you will find the taper only needs to start at about the 3rd frame-ish. That's what you ended up with a slightly up-down across the length around the middle of the hull. First planking doesn't matter as long as it is smooth which it looks like it is. Good work! -
Thanks Keith. I used short lengths of dowels to support the deck supports on my Soveriegn, however there wasn't even any cross beam supports on this one. It didn't really need any, but I felt it was just a little too flexi at the wider end for comfort. Indeed as I found out earler it could have done with one right at the back, as it had sagged slightly in the middle and I had to clamp it inplace when fixing the stern backplate.
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Hiya AL. I wouldn't take my planking as red for anything. I wasn't able to find any accurate information on how the planking would have been done on the SM so really I improvised. In relality my method wouldn't have been used, especially with the 7cm length and 2cm gaps resulting in a 1cm gap every 4th plank. That was more of a cock up on my part than anything else. I did think about marking the treenails across the width, but I tried it and I didn't really like how it was looking. Perhaps if I was cocktail sticking the treenails it would have looked better but as I was purely simulating it...I build for asthetics over accuracy. As for the companion way holes I planked over, marking their perimiter as I went and cutting away afterwards, simply to make working out the position of the next plank easier.
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I've finished planking the quarter deck and sanding etc. When dry fitting I noticed there was no support across the middle, and I felt this would potentially cause an issue later on. I had some columns spare and found the two of these glued end to end fitting just right. So I made 6 columns and stained them with walnut and varnished them no rather than try and do it later. I fitted them evenly but recessed so they wouldn't interfere with anything to be fitted later. Once that was done I fitted the quarter deck and planked the bulwarks and rear wall.
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That is some exquisitly neat work there sir!
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Not at all Mike. I grab maybe half hour to an hour between my eldest leaving for school and my youngest going to nursery and in afternoons maybe another hour and half, in total, and sometimes a little time in the evening.
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With the bulwarks fitted I could get the insides planked, at least the lower section anyway. I will plank the upper sections once the quarter/poop decks are in place. I decided I could plank the quarter deck before fitting as it only has a very slight curve and wouldn't need any pinning to hold in place, besides there was nothing to pin to anyway.
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Thanks Keith. They will now they're fitted. But I'd much sooner had planked right up, cut to shape, cut the gunports...etc.
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Looks good Keith...but what is that monster behind her ?
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The second one. They had enough flex in them to hug the curve of the frames/decks. Had to be pinned on each frame to hold in place but they went on quite easily
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lol Mike...no idea what you're talking aboot! I've finished the main deck and added the treenailing. Next I planked the bow wall with African Walnut veneer, very nice wood. After that had dried I trimmed the excess and then set about adding the single piece bulwarks. I bloody hate these things...I'd much sooner PoF the entire side walls. Still, they went on much better than I expected, and a novelty for me is I got them both on evenly!
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Yep Steve all done. Simulated though, not got enough cocktail sticks to hand lol.
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Thanks No idea why...wish they had though. I hate solid bulwarks. I'd rather PoF the whole lot.
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I started the deck planking today, at least for the main deck anyway. It's meant to be planked all the way to the stern but I worked out that a lot of that wouldn't be visible so I marked out the area that would be seen and planked that only. I finally found a wood/marker combination that doesn't bleed, so I tried a different method of caulking, using a marker instead. Seems to have turned out quite well. The deck is meant to be planked in single lengths but this would mean simulating the joints between planks which if I did as normal with a pencil wouldn't match the longditudal caulking, so I decided to cut the planks into 7cm lengths, done intentionally so I would end up with a 1cm stagger ever 4th plank. Don't ask me why I just think it looks better, slightly less uniform. (I build for asthetics, not accuracy...within reason). Progress so far:
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I've finished attaching all of the frames to the keel and fairing them as needed. She has quite a pointy bow so quite a lot had to come off there. Not so much at the stern, more just to ensure the planks have 100% frame to lay against. I marked out the locations of the frames on the false deck and pre-drilled a series of holes for pins. I fitted the deck in place and partially pinned, allowing still a gap for me to apply PVA into, then I pushed the pins fully in. Not my original intention but I was using some nice flat topped pins that I knew would sit flush with the deck and not foul the decking later. This also allowed me to correct a very slight twist from the last but one frame at the stern, however I was able to persuade it go go into line and the pins helped keep it there as the glue dried. Now everything is perfectly square.
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Cheers Keith. Yes would be good to have all three being made. I do the more finer acurate sanding afterwards as well, just the first/last few frames I take the bulk of the wood off before as I find I have more control and less chance of breaking a frame. Done that once or twice
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Me again! I bought this as a gap filler as I knew I would end up waiting for partworks to arrive and so on. This was also the first model I ever looked at when thinking about taking the plunge into wooden ship modelling years ago. Another good reason for this one is I've nver built a ship with sails, and this is quite simplified so will be a good way to get some experience. If this one turns out ok I might think about building the Nina and the Pinta to go with her. I've not done a great deal yet, just working my way down the keel to about half way so far. I've been bevelling the frames as I go, I personally find it just makes things easier, even more so as I can do the bulk of the removal before fixing the frame in place using a Mouse sander. Yes sort of cheating I know but it works. Progress so far:
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I think any chances of building accurately with OcCre's Bounty is well out of the question anyway.
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Hiya Mike, I've dug out a few in-progress photo's of the various ships I have planked so you can see the general idea of how the planking is put together. They show the use of stealers/drop planks, tapering the planks at the bow/stern etc
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haha Mike I'd say it even if you were joking or not I'll have to dig out your email...and peek at it from behind the couch!
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If it were me...inline with the top deck, following it's curve, (in the Bounty's case sweeping up at the bow a little greater a curve than the deck)...and go from there. (here we go again ) Dare I ask...what does the instructions show?
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What's the news sailor? Any progress...
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Looking good. I have the Santa Marie in my stash to do. Quick question...why do you store your tinlets upside down?
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