yvesvidal

I finally was able to get some work done on the Volvo today. I started by closing in the cabin top and companionway , I then finished up the steering wheel for the Starboard side steering station ( and pinted it to match the Port side ). I then varnished over the logos , and painted the cabin top red and companionway white ( I will be putting a logo over the companionway entrance ) Here are the results

An update !  Ive committed to setting aside an hour a night 5 days a week - and Ive added the fenders and ships ladder. The fenders were tricky to get right - I used an old planking iron to get the correct bend to fit flush with the hull.  
 
After i add the channels, I suppose i need to start thinking about some sort of stand - open to suggestions - Im bummed i didn't predrill the keel to accept rods so i can use brass pedestals. 
 
 

Wednesday, September 17, 2014
 
After a few days of inactivity due to a dental intervention that I cannot define as "simple routine", today I felt able to resume works without taking risks and so I started to cut out the bulkheads of the brig.
Usual method: printing of the bulkheads using my computer with AutoCAD, gluing the paper over the plywood and cutout of the piece with the scrollsaw . . except ending the day using the coping saw which I found to need less time overall.
Let me better explain: using the scroll saw, which as I already had occasion to write is not a simple tame horse, I'm forced to go rather slowly in order to avoid to do damages, and, always for the same reason, I cut a little generous. As a result I have a lot of work with a file and sanding blocks, making a lot of fine powder very annoying. However at the end the bulkhead is near perfect.
But then I realized that, having to work on rather soft poplar plywood, if I use the coping saw, it takes me more or less the same time to cut but the result is 99.5% accurate, and consequently the finishing stage is minimal and I save a lot of time. Moral: I save time with the same result.
Now, I do not mean that manually is better than with the powertool, but in this case, thanks to favorable circumstances, it proved to me the best method. So I guess for the remaining bulkheads to proceed manually. 
Finally here below shown the frames ready, the first six from the bow. They are dry mounted on the keel to make sure everything is well in place. 
 
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Even the longitudinal reinforcement seem to fit perfectly. . I think I'm on the right way.
 
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A touch of color and personalization. .
 
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To the next message . . Jack.

Hi all.  My attempts to replicate Michael's method of heating a brass rod to make the binnacle glass are shown below.  I haven't progressed much on the binnacle, because I am looking at other methods as well, before deciding which one looks best.
 
I've also included photos of Ingomar's boarding ladder and also her three boats, two of which were motor launches and the third was a rowboat.  The method I used for the boats was to glue two layers of thin strips of paper over a waxed mould.  I then saturated the dried paper with liquid super glue, which then formed a tough layer.  When dried, I then popped the hull out of the mould and voila!  Not too bad, I thought for a first attempt at this method.  The ships boats still require a whole heap of cleaning up, sanding and painting before they look presentable.  The same goes for the boarding ladder.  I've still got to figure out how to do the davits...
 
Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos

In MSW incarnation #1, there was a few threads about the work of Master modeler Chris Watton and some upcoming kits that he was designing for Amati.
 
I was wondering if there is anything new in that direction. I remember very vividly two gorgeous models in preparation for Amati:
 
1) The Bellona (unfortunately at the scale of 1/72 - I wish it would be available at 1/64th))

 
 
2) The HMS Victory at 1/64th, using a new technique based on MDF for the building of the hull and inner decks.

 
Could anybody shed some light on these two kits?
 
And then of course, there was also the Revenge:
 

 
Thanks in advance.
Yves

Finally I feel I know enough to start the rigging.  I did the starboard shrouds, the fore stay and the spring lines.  I had to do the deadeye lacing three times and the spring lines twice.  I made a jig to help make the thimbles but I’m still scrap a lot.  I may have to remake the jig.  Still a long way to go but at least I’m started.
 
Bob
 

                         Starboard side
 

                         Main shrouds
 

                        Fore shrouds
 

                        Main topmast looking aft
 

                        Main masthead
 

                        Fore masthead

Took a quickey shot of the re-planking of the beakhead bulkhead after I spent most of the morning drilling out the opening for the bowsprit (finally got up the courage).
Note, the shade of the bulkhead planks appears to be a little washed out....that is due to the angle of the overhead light used to get this shot. I'm not the greatest photographer.
Any of us who have ever done this knows the challenge of getting the precise angle and hole size through the planking without damaging the deck or the bulkhead. The process can definitely get a little harry.

The second photo shows the different tools I used to begin very small and work my way up to an opening large enough to insert that 18" long drill bit and begin measuring and adjusting the angle.
Final shaping was done mostly using the rat-tail file and the small Dremel rasp bit shown.

Now, we shall move forward with the entire beakhead.

Today , I was finally able to get back to work on the Volvo, I started by laying out and cutting out the Main. ( From the sport Fabric)The Sail inventory is coming together.  I then Decided to add the Logo's to the Boat . They were printed on Vellum paper, cut out and glued to the boat. ( I will brush varnish over the top ) here are the results 

As promised, a pictorial update. 
 
I have all the frames installed, and the clamps along both sides to support the deck beams.  While not necessarily correct, I opted to do the clamps in one piece for the strength it will provide vice the laminated layers with 3 sections as on the real ECB.  When originally built, the clamps would probably have been in 3 sections port & starboard scarphed together, cut from 2 x 10ish timbers. 
 
You can see the clamps on either side.  The foreman s checking the temporary bracing between the frames and clamps at the midship section.
 

 
I also have started installing the cabin - here you can see the first 3 beams and posts for the cabin deck.  there will also be beams (no posts) at frames 20 through 22.
 

 
 

 
The view from above at the overall shape - remember, the outer battens that are pinned on are just temporary for stiffening, but will be somewhat useful for fairing the hull later on before planking the exterior.
 

 

Wayne,
Looking forward to see what you do with your base. I'm thinking of placing mine in water setting with partial dock using plexi. I also did full interior, even included stove but did not take photos. Know where you can get one of those scopes? Building the interior makes it feel even more realistic, you will enjoy the effort.
John O

continuation. .   
Here below the keel inserted into the assembly base, with two small rods inserted into the slots of the two masts, and two "exercise" bulkheads in place just to give the idea that there is something more . . .
 
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Tomorrow I'll go for three/four days in Pisa with my daughter, so do not expect news shortly. 
Sincerely, Jack.
 

Saturday, September 6, 2014
Yesterday I assembled the three elements that make up the false keel. To do this I glued the three pieces by placing them over a glass plate I previously described and I let dry for a few hours under the weight of two other glass plates. Then I glued the plywood reinforcements to be applied on both sides of the joint, pressing them with clamps. Then I prepared the side structure for the hollows for the masts, so that they are already usable right now and perfectly aligned to the keel. 
 
The cut out for the foremast is vertical, while that for the mainmast is tilted slightly towards the stern. 
Once assembled these last two items, I begun to prepare the building slip assembly, which will accompany this model from now until I will start to apply the planks on the quickwork. Until then, its main purpose will be to hold the keel aligned during the installation of the bulkheads, the reinforcements for the hull structure, the upper deck and the external planking to the waterline: in short, probably for a few months. 
Two views of the keel. .
 
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A few scattered pieces, more than anything else to become familiar with the scrollsaw. . not to be used on the model because the thickness is not right.
 
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And finally the building slip, finished and waiting for the glue to dry completely . . I've reused the base I built for the 12 Apostles, while I redid the vertical supports.
 
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See you tomorrow, Jack.

Hi all. Anchor's Aweigh!!! After doing the twin drum windlass, the time had come to do the two anchors that Ingomar had resting on her foredeck. I tried many ways, but finally succeeded in replicating the anchors as best I could; although they do need a bit of cleaning up to get rid of the rough edges. I then painted them light gray to simulate a 'worn' sort of look. I also threaded the anchor chain (actually black rigging thread had to be used because I didn't have a chain tiny enough!) through the hawse holes and up through the deck and onto the respective drums of the windlass.
 
Also, having glued the bowsprit on, I decided to see what Ingomar's masts would look like. I put some dummy dowels into the mast holes to see just how much of a transformation the masts would eventually make. Wow! Not bad, I thought.
 
QUESTION! I have to build the binnacle next. However, I'm stuck for ideas of how to build the octagonal glass part of the binnacle. At this scale, it's a pretty difficult task because it's only about 1.5 mm high. I can try using an octagonal shaped glass bead, (from a jewellerry bead shop) but I'd welcome any ideas from anyone out there. Any ideas????
 
Hope you enjoy the photos!
 
All the best!

Dave - I hope you will not be offended by the question - but have you sailed on a real boat?
 
I can just see my sailing instructor turning in his grave the Hypot of what!!!
 
Let me humbly offer a quick lesson which has been drilled so permanently into my brain.
 
Triangular sails have 6 parts - 3 corners and 3 edges. The names of the corners are Head (can you guess which one this is?) Tack (the tack never moves & Clew. The edges are the Foot, the Luff and the Leach. I think everyone will know the Foot. The Luff is the first edge that will luff. ie the edge that meets the wind first.
 
For the main sail power is derived by having an airfoil shape. so yes the Leach will not be straight and the sail will not be a flat triangle.
 
Careful tuning of the air foil is what wins races. Which is why this boat has so much tackle on the boom. This boat has an aluminum boom. This was a huge advancement in technology for the time. Also the boom was allowed to flex which also helped with the air foil shape in certain conditions.

Hi everyone!  Hope you're all well.  
 
What a difference the addition of the drop keel and rudder has made to Ingomar's hull.  I was actually dreading adding the drop keel, because I thought it would spoil her underbody shape, but, to my surprise, I reckon it's added a huge point of interest to the hull.  To my mind, Ingomar looks like she's really coming along nicely.  The rudder, also, has made a big difference and in many ways, sort of 'completes' the hull nicely.
 
Another addition that's just been added is the final strip of jarrah to finish off the deck's edge and the top of the transom.  I reckon it contrasts nicely against the lightly coloured deck planks.  Still needs further sanding and varnishing though.
 
Lastly, I've temporarily added a piece of wood to simulate the long bowsprit.  It looks really, really, really long to me, but I've triple checked the measurement and it's correct.  It just gives you an idea of the huge amount of sail that these mega yachts carried in the early 1900's.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos.
 
All the best, everyone!
 
 

As a transition from POB to POF I've selected Emma C Berry.
 
Photo shows August progress. String to run at centerline during frame lofting.
 
Level at front used to verify level of building board, the table building board sits on during work
and for lofting of frames .
 
 

YOu can either order pieces online or find a local hobby shop that carry balsa wood strips.
 
OK, decided to move forward and lace in the main sail. Probably a good idea to do it now since the more rigging to work around the harder it is. I didn't do all the loops up the mast and down the boom, just enough to hold it in place for now. The "hypotenuse" of the sail must have been a little longer than it should have because it doesnt pull tight and causes the sail to lay an inch or two to the side, Not a problem when seen from the side. My main problem with the main sail was the lower reef lines, those came out the worst before I started using my sewing machine better, but I kept it. I'll just 'pretend' the sail is old because of use.
 

 

After a unexpected but welcomed interuption, I was able to get back to work, I started by making the Turn buckles ,I then Painted them Flat Black, I then Made all the Secondary Winches for the Cockpit.Next, I turned my attention to finishing the Streering stations, I srarted by making the pedestal for the Wheel, I then decided to make the Wheel out of Wood ( as a test & it worked )  I then Painted the Bases Grey, the Railing and Wheel center Red, The Pedestal and wheel rim Flat Black, with the center of the Wheel being White, Nothing at this stage has been Glued to the Boat , The Fishing weight is still being used to hold up the Communications Tower, I am very please with how she is coming along. Here are the results

Thank you Michael, It's been alot fun making the parts for this one 
 
Thanks Omega, she does have that speed boat look
 
Thanks Geoff, she's coming together, I am almost finished making all the parts , then I will make the Keel and Rudder Blades, She will see water soon
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Some more updates on the rigging. I rigged the boom which had a real trick run trough about 7 blocks.  And I'm only rigging one side to the mast before putting on sails, so the other  side can be rigged later..will make it easier for putting on the sails.
 

Yes, another beautiful model impossible to get outside the UK.
 
Yves

Hi MTaylor, david, hexnut, Nils (Mirabella 61) and Pete.  Many thanks and nice to hear from you all!  Hope all is well in all of your shipyards.
 
Pete.  Thanks for your comment about the table.  Greatly appreciated!
 
 
Bob.  I think the idea of champers and the ice bucket would indeed be tantalising.  Just the right thing for cruising and enjoying a starry night under a light breeze.
 
Jeff (Chasseur).  Many thanks as well.  Wouldn't it be nice to own a real Ingomar!  I also share your dream of sailing a full size tall ship...it would certainly be amazing, no doubt.
 
Michael.  Many thanks for your comments about the table and the compass motif. I can certainly see where you're coming from and may well reconsider putting the table and chairs on the deck.  Perhaps I could include them on the display stand, as a sort of diorama.  
 
Here's a couple more photos, for interest sake.
 
Thanks all for taking the time to share your likes and comments!!!

Starting out on some rigging. I rigged the shroud lines first. The problem I was having was color, should I use black or tan? Standing rigging is usually black, but I see a lot of the standing rigging on endeavour tan. I started black on the shrouds, then made the switch when I did the forward stay to tan. I will continue with tan. I hope the shrouds dont standout out as an outcast in the end being the on black rigging. I like it so far. Here are a few pics of the rigging starting.
 

 

 

Today, Was one of those days where you loose track of time and Bam , it's dark, My Morning started by Having Coffe outside and looking at the Boat, I decided that even though I used a semi-gloss white , I still got way to much Glare, So I wet sanded the Deck and Cockpit up to 2000 grit. ( that seemed to do the trick) Next I painted the Cabin and surrounding Deck area Dark Grey, I was actually talking with Kate this morning about the Grey on the Bruce Farr VO 65  Drawings , and decided to add some flat Black an 1/8 thinner to the Grey and wow is it close to the drawings,( I plan on doing the Graphics the same as the Drawings ) I then Painted the top of the Toe rail red as well as the Cabin highlights Cabin entry point on Deck and the Hydraulic end of the Boom Vang . I put her together so we can see what she will look like . ( nothing has been glued to the Hull, I also Sprayed 1 coat of white on the SAILOR 500 and both life Boat boxes. Here are the results

Thanks Geoff,she's getting there , once the detail work on deck is complete , I will start making the Keel and Rudder Blades, she's getting closer to Sailing
 
Thanks Omega, The hull turned ourt well , I really like this blue ( Same as on Stars & Stripes ) I am having a blast building this boat, She practically built herself, every thing has gone smooth
 
Best Regards,
Pete