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schooner

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About schooner

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    Semora, NC

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  1. Just about done with the rigging All the rigging directly associated with the masts (halyards, lifts, jeers, shrouds, stays, etc) has been added along with a couple of the yard braces. The only things left to rig at this point are the rest of the yard braces, the jib boom and its’ rigging and the ratlines on the lower shrouds. The end is in sight.
  2. Roel, One idea for launching and recovering is something I saw here on the scratch logs for a fully rigged RC sailing frigate that looked about as long as your model (although much taller obviously). You can imagine how hard it would be to handle a fully rigged ship. Unfortunately I can't find the build log right now. The builder built a wheeled cart with 2 wheels on one end and handles on the other, sort of like a wheelbarrow. something like that would allow you to launch and recover your model fully assembled. The cart is pushed into the water until the model floats free and when done the model is just run back onto the cart. If you look around for sites dealing with RC sailing models you should find something similar to what I'm describing. Keep up the good work, Tim
  3. I just discovered this build log, this is the best scratch detailing work that I have ever seen! Anywhere! One question - how do you launch and recover this model? Do you use a cart that you wheel into the water? Do you have a cradle? Do you just pick it up in your arms and wade in and out of the water? Please keep up the good (and detailed) work.
  4. This is a very interesting build log - particularly for someone who has not worked with fiberglass. Quick question - after applying the gray Bondo did you have any trouble avoiding sanding through the glass layer while smoothing the hull? I really like that you are going thru all the work of making this a 3-prop - should be a fast one on the water.
  5. One possible explanation for the small side steps - O'Brian's books mention in several places that when senior (i.e. rotund) officers or civilian (i.e. landlubber)VIP's came aboard sideboys would hold manropes on each side of the steps to help the visitor negotiate the steps so maybe that is what the small ones are for.
  6. Come to think of it, I've never noticed netting in that area either but that mesh is handy for applying to the aft railings on the fighting tops should you decide to add it.
  7. Most of the big craft stores sell black netting like in the above photos, people use it in floral arrangements so it's probably in that part of the store.
  8. Mizzen Rigging With the mast stepped the following are done: Gaff Throat & Peak Halliard and Vangs Cross jack Truss Pendant and Lifts Topsail Tye and Lifts Topgallant Halliard Lower shrouds and backstays Futtock shrouds and staves Rope coils Forestays the "railing" on the top The only rigging left for the Mizzen are the yard braces and the ratlines on the shrouds.
  9. I just use spray primer from the big box hardware stores - it shows any imperfections from shaping the hull that need attention and when you finally get a good smooth primer finish then you know you'll have a hull that looks like steel. As far as the anchor winch, I ended up scratch building one for my Liberty ship using plastic rods and stock, brass tubing and most important of all some old watch gears I found online:
  10. Wonderful build!!!! From what you said in one of your early posts this is basically a scratch build. Lovely woodworking!
  11. In case you didn't know there is one surviving Victory ship, the SS American Victory, down in Tampa Fl (https://www.americanvictory.org) you can google the ship's name to get some pics that may help and depending where you live you can even tour her, or the similar Liberty ship SS John W. Brown in Baltimore (https://www.ssjohnwbrown.org). The instructions for the current Bluejacket kit might be helpful - it would be worth a call to them to ask, they are very helpful. Interesting photos, looks like someone did a fair amount of the drudgery in shaping the hull for you ... good deal.
  12. Looks like you are off to a very good start! That is a gorgeous kit that really depends on a good paint job to "be all it can be" and it seems like you nailed it. Keep up the good work.
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