schooner
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Kate Cory by Capt. Kelso (Quint) - Model Shipways - 3/16" scale - Whaling Brig
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US Brig Syren by Redshadowrider - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
US Brig Syren by Redshadowrider - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
USF Essex 1799 by RossR - Model Shipways - 1:76
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
US Brig Syren by Argaen Lok (aka Scott Larkins) - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
BRITANNIA by Der Boss - Mountfleet Models - 1:24 - RADIO
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
BRITANNIA by Der Boss - Mountfleet Models - 1:24 - RADIO
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
Lucia A Simpson 1875 by cdrusn89 - AJ Fisher - 1/64
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HMS Diana by mort stoll - Caldercraft - 1/64
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Diana by mort stoll - Caldercraft - 1/64
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PaddyO reacted to a post in a topic:
US Brig Syren by Argaen Lok (aka Scott Larkins) - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
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Great idea on the jig!! -
Your explanation of how to sand these lift boat hulls is the best I have seen - I wish I'd seen it before I trashed my longboat while sanding the hull and had to replace it with a planked kit from Victory Models.
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mort stoll reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
HMAS Sydney IV by RGL - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 - RESIN
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
ALFRED by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96 - Continental Navy Frigate
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
ALFRED by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96 - Continental Navy Frigate
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KARAVOKIRIS reacted to a post in a topic:
ALFRED by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96 - Continental Navy Frigate
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Another amazing build! Quick question, you said your final topcoat grey overspray was "Storm Grey", what brand was that? It is different from Haze Gray and I think it would work well for a model of a USN 4-piper DD of the 1920's. Keep up the great work.
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Phil, I just noticed your CLG-5 avatar and your MSI build link. I was stationed in Yokosuka on an FF when the Okie Boat did her last ride there in the late 70’s. I was on an MSO in the late 80’s - I thought our fantail was crowded with sweep gear but it was nothing compared to what you had crammed into an MSI.
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Hi Phil, Looks like you are making good progress and solving the little problems that inevitably come up. I have not built the 18-footer but I hope to near the end of my Syren build. I did do the 24ft launch (I have a build log under the 1751-1800 section). One suggestion that may help you avoid a problem - the transom is a weak point when planking the hull since it is just hanging out there in space and not attached to the base. You might want to consider attaching some scrap wood to the base that will reinforce the transom vertically and athwartship so it doesn't break off under pressure. keep up the good work.
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Thanks for the kind words. Just one more photo to show what attracted me to this kit - I wanted a fully rigged 3-master that would fit on a bookshelf. Well, it does!
- 142 replies
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- alfred
- solid hull
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Hey Jim, Shaping solid hulls is always an adventure (I've done 6 of them so far from BJ). But as you have obviously figured out already there are few unrecoverable errors at this stage. By adding wood where needed, and some filler (as long as it is not too thick to avoid problems with curing/drying) you can redo almost anything. I have not done the Connie but it looks like your fix on the stern may well work. Perfection is always nice but for the hull, simply keeping things symmetrical and avoiding anything odd-looking should be "good enough" because if you get this build finished everyone who sees it will be fixated on the masts, rigging and the deck details and any minor flaws in the hull will never be noticed (even by you). Keep plugging away.
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Glad to be of help Joe. The Niagara makes for a nice looking model, I hope you post some pix of the finished build in the gallery section.
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Nice work Avi! I'd like to make one suggestion regarding mounting the guns on the gun deck. You should consider pinning the carriages to the deck with a piece of thin brass rod. When moving the hull around as you get into the rest of the build you will unavoidably push several guns out of place. If you can, you may want to extend the length of the rod so that it passes thru the cannon barrel and carriage and then into the deck. Trying to remount the guns once the upper deck is in place can be a real pain, as I know from experience.
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I'm at the same point in the build as you. I think the idea is to place the top of the batten along the middle laser line then check for any weird bends, adjust as needed (and as little as possible) to get a fair line then mark the bulkheads where the top of the batten touches them (the batten can then be removed). That line will be where the top of the 3/16" high sill pieces sit. Doing it that way ensures that the top of the sill pieces sit as close as possible to being 3/16" above the transverse parts of the bulkheads which the deck planking will sit on. If they do, then the stacking of the 1/16" thick planking, plus the 1/16" thick waterway, plus the 1/16" thick carronade swivel brackets (pg 46 of the instructions) will leave the top of the swivel brackets even with the gunport sill, thereby centering the carronades in the gunport and level with the deck. That's the theory anyway, for what it's worth.
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Finally finished The display case base arrived from BlueJacket so it’s time to take some final photos and put this one to bed. It has been a challenging but enjoyable build.
- 142 replies
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- 13
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- alfred
- solid hull
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I agree with Phil about gluing the stropping lines around the blocks. If you don’t some of your blocks may “roll out” under tension, probably in the worst locations for trying to fix them. You don’t need much glue, just a little on each side if the block. Rounding off the edges of the blocks will make them look more realistic. The blocks from Syren look great but the Model expo blocks can be improved with a tumbler or by filing down the edges (tedious but not too bad if you do them as you need them.)
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I’m a little late with this comment but your ship’s boats look great! Did you put anything on the interior wood or did you just leave the pear wood as it came?
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