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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: HMA Submarine AE2 by RGL - Hobartville Hobbies - 1/350 - 3D printed
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: US Brig Syren by Redshadowrider - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS CONSTITUTION by Brian Falke - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96
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KurtH reacted to a post in a topic: ALFRED by schooner - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96 - Continental Navy Frigate
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catopower reacted to a post in a topic: Forester 1900 by sheepsail - Model Shipways - 1:128
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic: Forester 1900 by sheepsail - Model Shipways - 1:128
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sheepsail reacted to a post in a topic: Forester 1900 by sheepsail - Model Shipways - 1:128
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Hi Julie, I'll be following along with interest since I bought a MS Forester on Ebay a few months ago. My intent was to cut the hull in half for a half hull model (maybe even 2 of them!) that I could ship to my sister who lives on Grays Harbor WA, which around 1900 was the biggest lumber port in the world. Trying to ship a fully rigged model to the West Coast would be prohibitively expensive, plus gifting someone a cased ship model might lead to one of those "Gee, thanks, I guess..." moments. My kit seems to have all the fittings and I've been thinking of buying another kit like yours where the seller says "parts missing" for the half hull model and using my kit for a rigged version for me. If you are going to use the hull just as a template for bulkheads keep me in mind before you toss the hull, I might be interested in buying it. You mentioned not being able to find a photo of the finished MS model - if you google "schooner forester model" and look under images a nice one pops up right away. Good luck Tim
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schooner reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by threebs - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1/8" scale
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Very well done. I'm impressed with your technique for the furled sails - I'll have to use it when I get around to building my FORESTER kit, an old Model Shipways West Coast Lumber schooner. Once again, great job.
- 121 replies
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- Lucia A Simpson
- AJ Fisher
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Paul Le Wol reacted to a post in a topic: Lucia A Simpson 1875 by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - AJ Fisher - 1/64
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cdrusn89 reacted to a post in a topic: Lucia A Simpson 1875 by cdrusn89 - FINISHED - AJ Fisher - 1/64
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Nice looking ratlines - the small knots look great! What do you use to trim off the excess from the knots?
- 121 replies
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- Lucia A Simpson
- AJ Fisher
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PaddyO reacted to a post in a topic: US Brig Syren by Argaen Lok (aka Scott Larkins) - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
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Your explanation of how to sand these lift boat hulls is the best I have seen - I wish I'd seen it before I trashed my longboat while sanding the hull and had to replace it with a planked kit from Victory Models.
- 433 replies
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- Syren
- Model Shipways
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mort stoll reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96
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Another amazing build! Quick question, you said your final topcoat grey overspray was "Storm Grey", what brand was that? It is different from Haze Gray and I think it would work well for a model of a USN 4-piper DD of the 1920's. Keep up the great work.
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Phil, I just noticed your CLG-5 avatar and your MSI build link. I was stationed in Yokosuka on an FF when the Okie Boat did her last ride there in the late 70’s. I was on an MSO in the late 80’s - I thought our fantail was crowded with sweep gear but it was nothing compared to what you had crammed into an MSI.
- 54 replies
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- 18 ft cutter
- ships boat
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Hi Phil, Looks like you are making good progress and solving the little problems that inevitably come up. I have not built the 18-footer but I hope to near the end of my Syren build. I did do the 24ft launch (I have a build log under the 1751-1800 section). One suggestion that may help you avoid a problem - the transom is a weak point when planking the hull since it is just hanging out there in space and not attached to the base. You might want to consider attaching some scrap wood to the base that will reinforce the transom vertically and athwartship so it doesn't break off under pressure. keep up the good work.
- 54 replies
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- 18 ft cutter
- ships boat
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Thanks for the kind words. Just one more photo to show what attracted me to this kit - I wanted a fully rigged 3-master that would fit on a bookshelf. Well, it does!
- 142 replies
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- alfred
- solid hull
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Hey Jim, Shaping solid hulls is always an adventure (I've done 6 of them so far from BJ). But as you have obviously figured out already there are few unrecoverable errors at this stage. By adding wood where needed, and some filler (as long as it is not too thick to avoid problems with curing/drying) you can redo almost anything. I have not done the Connie but it looks like your fix on the stern may well work. Perfection is always nice but for the hull, simply keeping things symmetrical and avoiding anything odd-looking should be "good enough" because if you get this build finished everyone who sees it will be fixated on the masts, rigging and the deck details and any minor flaws in the hull will never be noticed (even by you). Keep plugging away.
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Thanks for all the kind responses and the likes.
- 142 replies
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- alfred
- solid hull
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Nice work Avi! I'd like to make one suggestion regarding mounting the guns on the gun deck. You should consider pinning the carriages to the deck with a piece of thin brass rod. When moving the hull around as you get into the rest of the build you will unavoidably push several guns out of place. If you can, you may want to extend the length of the rod so that it passes thru the cannon barrel and carriage and then into the deck. Trying to remount the guns once the upper deck is in place can be a real pain, as I know from experience.
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