gieb8688

Finally got one upper gallery done.Not perfect but i`m ok with how it turned out.Now back to more painting.
 
 

 

 

 
 
Mark

Here`s a sample.First picture is before & the second is after.
 
 

 
 

 
 
Only 5 more towers to build.

The Granado is my second wooden ship build.  This follows the cutter Sherbourne which you can follow the link to in the MSW gallery.
The Granado was chosen for a vessel offering more than a single mast but still able to be displayed in a reasonable space.
Firstly a tribute to all the prior Granados on MSW's former incarnation - they proved immensely helpful and I owe a huge tribute to you all in helping to spot impending difficulties and work around them thanks to your efforts. 
After wantonly pillaging MSW for help with my first build it's time to add to the basket of knowledge that MSW members have so graciously given to me.
This build is by no means complete but hopefully of use to others as I found previous members' posts.
So on to the build...
The build was started in April 2012 and at this stage I've just completed the second planking above the wales and filed out the gunports.
The Caldercraft kit is all the usual business like efficiency with little in the way of complaints. The fittings are top quality with turned brass cannon, limewood for the first planking and walnut for the second.
 

 
No, it's not a botch. The lens curve making the stem appear out of alignment here.
 

 
One thing to watch for on this kit is setting the gunport patterns correctly. I thought I was being very clever in measuring the placement from the base of the keel. It resulted in patterns not quite meeting the tips of the bulkhead patterns. As a result at least half of the gunports had to be raised slightly.
Better to just fit them to the tops of the bulkheads. Oh well.
 

 
Another thing to watch for is the sweep ports. The instructions don't mention them until after the gunport patterns have been installed despite the plans showing them as illustrated. From there it's the somewhat more difficult matter of cutting them through from the outside and matching them up with the inner spirketting - no easy task. If your want the sweep ports showing on the inside then tak e gauge of where they should be before installing the gunport patterns and adjust once the lot is installed. It's not difficult but comes down to reading the instructions all the way through before taking any steps.
 

 
I found it made more sense to skip ahead in the build and install the lower stern counter before the upper hull sides were planked. It allowed the upper stern counter to be shaped to fit and also allowed the wales to be shaped to fit around it. The black used here is probably a bit too dark to see the chase ports to best effect. That might be looked at later.
 

 
The mortars went together nicely after some cleaning up. The mortars themselves are nicely cast brass that just needs some time with a file to bring out the best. Some brass wire handles were added as per Peter Goodwin's excellent Anatomy of the Sip Grandado book.
The example here is the stern mortar - the smaller of the two on board.
Following shots show the mortar surrounds in place which are identical for each of the two mortars aboard.
 

 

Guns fully mounted
 
All the guns have now been fitted and the ones that can be seen have been fully rigged. Next job to finish the gun deck fittings.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

On to the chesstrees.  There is definitely a few hours here as will be explained below.  My first gut was to jump right in, make a cardboard template to match the hull shape, transfer to a wooden piece and get'r done.  Well, I never really like butt joints that show and in this case I was unable to get a real tight fit all around the chesstree.  Pause to think.....
 

 
Well, the easiest way is to inset the chesstree into the planking.  So, I carefully trace around the chesstree and chisel half a plank depth away.
 

 
The result is much more satisfying.  As a bonus, the joint will be a whole lot stronger.
 

 
Now here came the biggest problem to overcome, creating the sheave hole.  At first I jumped in and carefully drilled a hole at both ends of the sheave hole and tried to remove any remaining wood in between.  I didn't even take a picture as the result was totally unacceptable no matter how much I carefully filed, scraped and poked.  I ended up walking away for the night. 
 
Later on the solution came to me and involved keeping it as simple as possible.  I would cut into the chesstree to the sheave from the bottom.  Once everything was cleaned up (now that the entire hole was accessible this was easy), a small section of wood would be replaced.  Very quick and the result I liked very much.  The actual block you see is one fashioned quickly and will be replaced.
 

 

 
So overall the process was probably 3.5 hours.  The next one for the port side will probably be done in less than half the time but I am okay with that.  I ended up with something that looks good and methodically worked through the issues as they came up. 
 
Cheers,
Mark

RIght now I have no plans to.  This hull has been around for 8 years (assembled) and been very stable so far.  Also, there are already regions I am unable to adequately reach.  With basswood really need some sort of sealer.
 
This whole ship has been a learning experience for me.  Most items (where possible) are doweled or positioned with clamps as opposed to glue to allow some movement.  I attach an internal pic of the orlop deck which has survived with no ill effects so far.
 
Loving the hobby,
Mark
 

And even more.

And more !

Hello,
assembly of iron knees and
 
A  Hold
    5 Shot- locker
    6 Pump well
 
B Orlop-Deck
   9 scuttle providing acces to the shot-locker
 
 
Karl
 
 
 
 
T e i l  32

Some photos parts manufacturing

A brief overview of the construction is starting to show in the photos. My technology is old and has been shown in various forums before. This technology is suitable in the case of a repeated and repeated use of the punch (for the same type of ships of the same scale)

Unfortunately construction is not shown from the beginning. However, I hope in a short time to fix it.

I have had a lovely long holiday weekend treenailing I have completed both sides under the wales and intend to give this area a few coats of polyurethane for protection.I have also inlaid some small pieces of maple to represent the bowtie piece that joins keel to sternpost.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Anja
Well I do cheat a bit in that the instructions on the Italian site are six months infront of those here in GB.It gives me a preview of whats to come and how little of the original partwork I will be using.To be honest I am changing so much that the instructions become almost redundant.
I include a few pics of progress to date.I am concentrating on one side at a time to relieve the tedium of constantly treenailing.You will notice the alterations to the upper gunports.These have been altered to accomodate the decorations.The kits supplied directions  are incorrect.I have acquired some black pre dyed boxwood strips to plank the upper hull where the ornamentation sits.This will cover all the alterations I have to make in this area, to create a more accurate representation of the original.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hello,
 
here the making of chain plates for deadeyes, step by step in images.
 









 
To be continued, now in real time

Alexander

Hello,
 
Before I begin to install all guns, and work further with beams and knees for quarter deck, gun port lids must here. So the production of hinges, the lids itself are made earlier. I hope, the images are self explainable.
 





 
The installation of hinges and lid tackles.





 
After I have installed all lids, I have made blanks for channels, shaped them to right size and thickness, and installed them (only dry now).
 







 
To be continued
 
Alexander

A friend of mine asked me to take this on, and, at the time, I thought it would be a nice diversion from my Vinalhaven build.
 
I wasn't sure where to post this project, so I'm following Michael Mott's example and sticking it in here.(I've been moved, so disregard this statement).
 
I need to post it, because I'm going to have some questions for you, if you'll permit me.
 
Tom

What was done before part 3:
 
some more details shots:
 

batteries and switch for the lighting
 

inner planking
 

First carving
 

Cabin
 

More carving
 

just before painting...
 

 
Have fun,
Michiel

couple of pics of the victory barge, all scratch

Some text, although the pictures probably already tell enough..
 
I have meanwhile finished the yellow strips of the galleries on the port side.

 
And have subsequently done some minor work on the bow section: I still had to make both gun ports closest to the bow. When rebuilding the bow section I had not yet made these ports. Luckily, it was solid wood underneath at this part of the bow, so it was only drilling until the correct dept was reached. I subsequently painted the inside of the gun port black, as I had done with the others.


 
In addition, I have replaced the straight beams (with holes for the rope holders) with curves beams on the bow section (floowing examples on this forum). And made the deckhands to be placed on the deck.


 
And have build the upper part of the stern, using the very detailed pictures of Michael (md1400cs) as guidance.



 

Thanks to all that gave me encouraging compliments. Highly appreciated !!
 
 
I have meanwhile painted the decorative rings for the canon holes and placed them on the hull.

 
I am currently busy with the railings and the sides of the upper deck. Because I added more wood to the sides, both on the inside and the outside, the thickness has become more than it should be. As a result, the beams that I placed on the inside of the railings will remain visible behind the railings.
I have also added small rings to the beams alongside the canons, so that I can later add ropes on the canons. I will add a pciture of them later.


 
I have now rediscovered the use of an extension tube on my camera to be able to make some macro pictures and I have added two pictures of the stern paintings.

I decided to try to use the color scheme of the model in the Vasa Museum in Stockholm as guidance. Thus, I would not use blue as color but red for the upper part of the planking otgether with yellow linings and colored figures.
The high details of the painting of the figures is beyond my capabilities and I thus decided to try to come as close as possible for the larger figures of the bow and stern section, but to paint the smaller figures (on the bobinettes etc) at my own interpretation.

I am very glad to have found this website with, luckily for me, many build logs on the Wasa from Corel. I will use many of the tips and pictures posted in these logs for my guidance and as a example of what gifted modelbuilders can achieve.
 
I have bought a 'used' model of the Wasa about a year ago for a low price. It was in a very bad shape and the modelbuilder (not the person from which I have bought the model) did some things really well, but other parts were absolutely desastrous. Also it had suffered from neglect and the masts were broken off.
When I saw the model as it was at the time it became clear to me that I first had to do a lot of demolishing and then try to rebuild parts of it. Most notably was the bow section as it appeared that the previous builder had had problems with bending the wooden strips for planking that part of the hull.
 
First some pictures of the model as it was 'before restoration':

A few pics of the starboard waterway and plankshear.



 
 

I still have the bottom of the keel and the edges of the stem and stern to copper.  Should take about an hour.  Oh yeah...I will do the rudder now so it will patina evenly.
 
           Bob R.