dvm27

Well, even this is quite possible, cause i'm a very good swimmer and enjoy diving.😎
 
And here is a pedestal after hardening (in the oven at a temperature of about 130 ° C). I will create back side with reinforcement tomorrow and bring more pics from process.
 

Thank you Mark, Druxey and Piet for your feedback and support, I appreciate your words a lot.
 
I have just started making rear support, it is much more difficult than I have expected, but step by step I will manage it. Here are first pics from process, you can also see there all my tools I use for modelling sculptures from clay ( except the main ones - my hands of course....). The dolphin supports will be stylized according to period models from museums.

 
 
BTW, I love dolphins and I have had an opportunity to cuddle and swim with them several times. I will never forget such amazing enjoyment.
 

 
Best regards

John, I once lived in Denver, Colorado, which also had something like 300 days of sunshine a year. I appreciate what you have got in Brisbane! I should have done these guns two years ago before I moved. The weather report for here tomorrow no longer shows sunshine, which was going to be the only sunshine for the next 15 days. Druxey, I am going to call Micro Mark tomorrow and see if they can shed any light (so to say) on how I can do this with a lamp. Moving the lamp around is an interesting idea.
 
As usual, nothing quite goes as one expects. I printed out the artwork on the film and got satisfyingly high resolution, higher than the printer does on regular paper. However, I did not read the fine print in the instructions that the maximum recommended size is 3" by 3" for the metal, not the artwork; the artwork needs to have a margin of  ½" within the metal all around. So my artwork was too big. A few failed attempts later, I finally got the film printed to the correct size. Used up the entire first sheet of film getting it right. And I don't have enough door hinges at this point. So there will be a round 2...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Finished with the ratlines....Now onto the lower topsail fabrication.
 
Rob

@ Jorge Diaz O
Thank you for your interest and your nice comment.
But with assistance here in the forum that was not too difficult.
Therefore, thanks also to the others, who helped with suggestions.

In addition to a thicker dew Ø 1.6 mm, I have also served a thinner dew Ø 0.9 mm.

Now the rigging can begin ... oh, I have to clarify the questions about the material and the coloring before.

I’ve never seen a rifled bore on a ship model before Valerie! Your work reminds me of the finest builders models made by shipping companies in the 1900’s.

While the oil is drying, “pronating”, I installed Botteloef Opsteker with installed Boegstag Waterstag.

That’s how I affixed mine Mark, using 5 minute epoxy. Slightly over-contour the cypher to conform to the barrel. It’s a bit dicey keeping everything neat and tidy while the epoxy is setting but a little seep out is easily cleaned with isopropyl.

Just curious Mark. If you sweated those cyphers and vents onto the masters wouldn’t they be incorporated into the casting?

I’ve never seen a rifled bore on a ship model before Valerie! Your work reminds me of the finest builders models made by shipping companies in the 1900’s.

I’ve never seen a rifled bore on a ship model before Valerie! Your work reminds me of the finest builders models made by shipping companies in the 1900’s.

Hello dear friends, 
thank you very much for your care and wishes, it is already better. I even managed to modify gunports on the stern yesterday to be at the right position and I made them closed. My hands still pain, but soon I may be able to do fine work as well.
 

 
 
Best regards

Thank you, Jorge, druxey and Doris for your kind comments. And Doris, again I am amazed what you can do with clay, now that I have tried and failed to create details like you have done for your projects.
 
Drawing the cyphers for photo-etching is proving to be challenging, given their size. Working in Adobe Illustrator, I discovered that they need to be  fattened up, or the fine lines just disappear when shrunk down to scale. I don't know yet how fine the Micro Mark photo-etch paper will resolve either, so a little experimentation in in order now.
 
Mark

I have had my set for a couple of months and I can honestly say they are the best set of chisels I have ever purchased. They are honed to perfection and come in just about every shape or size one might need. I have made great use of them and my model looks all the better because of them. Well worth the investment!

My set is in the mail and I'm looking forward to receiving them! Michael writes that he has a few left.

Thanks for the input MNL, that's a good idea.
 
On this forum there's many magnificent models that are a full replica to scale, so each part is made. I haven't taken this approach, I want to show the last (& unbuilt) design by a little known amateur designer &, so giving the impression of an actual yacht is more important to me than making each piece. Part real scale work & part "if it looks right, it is right". By this measure, in some cases to show something that would exist could be wrong; my own rule was to imagine that I was standing say 10m from the actual yacht, & what would I see?
 
So I was reconciled to perhaps not having glass - I was concerned that the reflection would be too visible. My observation from the actual is that you see the dark circle & perhaps a bit of reflection.
 
Leaving the decision as late as possible, I painted a dark muddy brown spot in gloss enamel paint as a backdrop for the porthole "holes". To my eye, the effect is really good & I'm happy with it. Also, the darker paint does show reflection more than the cream colour, you can see that effect below.
 
A bit on colour: I am very much against using black unless it is a black painted object, & even then I'd consider backing it off a little to achieve the scale effect of black - the further away you are from a black object, the black is affected by surrounding light & is very slightly taken away from black. For a hole, I think black would be too severe & not look right. I'll show a sample of the actual colour I came up with, compared to a piece of real black.
 
The detail photo is poor because of the natural light conditions, low level of light. 
 


 
I've been considering the sails for a while, & after seeing how silkspan can be shaped to a curve in multiple directions, layered, coloured etc I'm going to try this material. My thought is that the sails should be 'set' as if with wind in them. The stand might need to be able to hold the model at a heel angle (as well as vertical), but that's for the future.
 
This boat would have been built in the mid 1960s & I had a chat with a sailmaker Ian 'Macca' MacDiarmid, who's skilled at gaff sails. He said that by 1967 dacron (or terylene in UK & something else in Japan) was good quality & was used quite widely. The cutting of the sails for a boat of that era, & how the size & setout the seams is shown on the sketches below, which Macca explained. One thing not noted in the drawings is that the battens would be shorter than today, & for this mainsail he said 4 would be correct for the period & size of sail. I did the drawings because the information is straight from the horses mouth & might be useful to others. The setout for the headsail mitre is important (& is not by a perpendicular line to the luff), so the seams meet each other at the mitre - see the "EQ" (equal) setouts from the clew. Hope it's clear. Also: it's assumed the main is a loose foot, I'm guessing the foot round would be less (or zero) with a laced foot.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Funnels  flue.

Hi everyone,
 
Cannon masters finally done. Here are the four guns of the Bellona: 32# on the gundeck, 18# on the upper deck, 9# long on the forecastle, and 9# short on the quarterdeck.
 
Now on to the king's cypher. I have even additional appreciation for Doris's amazing work with clay. I was not able to get anywhere close to her skill trying to make the cyphers that way. So I will try my Micro Mark photo etching kit and see how well I can do with that. The chemicals were way out of date, so waiting for renewed stock in the mail.
 
Mark

And here is the look through the windows:
 

 
 
Oh, I have almost forgotten - here is one of my helpers - sometimes is very tired and sleepy. I can't understand why?😄
 

 
 
 
Enjoy the pics and have a great time.
Best regards

Hello dear friends,
thank you all very much for your comments and kind words, I am pleased you like my work. 
 
And also thank you for your interest to be in my crew, that is a great honour for me.
 
 
Hi Denis,
I am flattered, but nobody is perfect, there are plenty of things on my work, I would like to improve. I love to create beauty and realism in details.
 
 
Hello Siggi, that is fantastic and very inspirational masterpiece, thank you for sharing the links.
 
***************************************************************************************************
 
 
I am trying to make the Royal Katherine model in a realistic look as much as possible so it will also related to all crew members. I'll make portraits of  faces according to real people. All sailors will be dressed in period clothes, and officers will have wigs on their heads. 
 
As I have already mentioned, I cooperate with the top expert on the history and construction of real ships and experienced naval captain - Kpt.KL. His advice are priceless for many people and I am very grateful for his professional help with my projects and possibilty to improve knowledge about real ships and everything around them.
 
Here are some of Kpt.KL posts in Czech forum, where you can find plenty of professional information about weapons, period clothes and sailors that I am going to aplicate on my model. You can use translator to understand, but I am sure, the following posts will be very beneficial and educational to you as well.
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=780#p2179766
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=780#p2179826
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=795#p2180373
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=795#p2180389
https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=110763&start=795#p2180442
 
I have decided to make all weapons again and much better to achieve more realistic appearance according to Captain´s advice. There were created for example these types of weapons: smallsword, spadroon, hanger/cuttoe, broadsword, rapier, flintlock muskets, flintlock/doglock pistols etc.
And here is the result.
 


One of the version how to place the weapons on panels during making decision....
 

Final solution:

And here you can see all pieces in the great cabin:
 

My machine is still in the planning phase (I actually don't need one at the moment, but it is an interesting project), though I have accumulated most of the materials needed. The base will be 6 mm brown bakelite, which should look nice together with the steel and brass of the mechanism. I may stay manual only, as I won't have to do that long ropes.
I also thought about driving the serving thread spool along with a leadscrew, but then came to the conclusion that one would need a hell of a gear ratio to make this useful, plus change-wheel for different thread thicknesses. Probably not worth the effort.
One point that concerned me was the pull needed to really wind the thread tightly around the rope. This would seriously deflect the rope. So, I will shape a kind of follower or travelling steady in which the rope runs in a channel. In the front a notch will be cut out of the channel in order to be able to feed in the serving thread. It will run over a flat surface so that one can control with the index finger the resistance.

First of all, many thanks for the greetings for the New Year and I hope that your interest in my report will continue in the New Year as well.
Steve, thank you very much for your nice comment.

Before I start with the shrouds, I still need a device for serving ropes.
First of all, I drew a plan to get the material and parts.




 
The first attempts with the rope serving machine were very successful.
In order to be able to control the tension on the thread better, I have to think of a supplement for the device.


 
 
 

Very nice Johann, Does the carriage with the spool need to be moved by hand or does the threading pull it along as it winds? I solved this by using a slightly springy brass plate that put just enough tension on the spool but let it get pulled along. here is the link to the serving machine that I did, it went through a number of improvements  as I looked at Alex"s machine which is also great. I of course enjoy building my own tools as well. I really like the way you have supported the rope being served, and also beautiful Drawings.
I thought about using a lead screw to move the carriage similar to the leadscrew on a lathe, My eventual feeling was that the thread pitch on the leadscrew would need to be the same as the thread that was being wound on the rope. At that point i decided to keep it simple, by using the action of the serving thread to pull along the spool.
 
Regards Michael 

I’m moving to the "oil" work. After a critical assessment, I decided to finalize some elements.
I have modified zwaarden and made fasteners.