dvm27

Thanks! 😊
 
I went ahead and cut out the gunports and framed them. Not much to comment on that really, it was straightforward.

 

My test cuts are done and now it is time to sand them all correctly; some parts are already sanded to the lines. 
Since the wood is ticker that needed and once all parts are sanded (or before, will need to decide), wood need to be run thru the table saw or band saw to reduce the thickness to correct dimension.  
These steps might looks too much but need to test the process and tools required and "repetitio est mater studiorum".
 

Happy modelling..

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

Instead of using fillers to repair the errant scores make a small patch using the same wood to fill in the defect. Make sure that the grain matches the direction of the carling (don't use end grain). Once glued in place and sanded flush the defect should be barely perceptible. I have corrected several errant mortises this way.

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

Preparation for the production of frames.

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

Thanks for getting your log up again so soon, Mark. Thank also for the NMM photos. Were they taken by you in a private showing? I hadn't notice the trundelhead carving before. It's quite lovely. Equally impressive are the perfection of your fillers between the frames. Have you noticed any expansion or contraction of any joints? A few of mine popped open when I took the hull from my climatically stable workshop to a warmer part of the house.
 
Greg

Hi All
Thanks for the likes...
Moving onto the stern area, this needed some manipulation to how the paper model is constructed.  Hopefully my explanation of how I achieved this is not to confusing.
 
Firstly for context this is how the paper model is done


This formation allows for the modelling of the internals and for a moment my ambition threatened to overrule my ability, eventually, however reality prevailed and I decided against going this far.
 
This means I have to change parts H1 to H4 (top left) to accommodate the fixing of the stern fascia.  The paper model simply has this glued on top of part 6 (top left) and to the bulwarks and relies on the flexibility of the card to get some curvature.
 
Although there are no corresponding parts to what I need to achieve, there is enough information provided for me to fashion the parts needed and this explained (hopefully) below
 
Part G (above top left) is the transom and this was fashioned out of some hard maple 5mm thick by the template provide in plan view and the curvature determined by the markings on bulkhead 17 (horizontal markings).  A chamfer was then  created for the planking
 
 
 

 
 
Next was extending parts H1-H4 to allow the forming and fitting of the stern fascia at a later date.  To achieve this I used common features of two templates to give me the final shape
 
 


 
Middle picture above....X, Y and the deck level are common on the formers H1-H4 and to the bulwark templates.  These were glued one on top the other to produce a single template shown in the right.
 
Blanks were then cut from hard maple using the template ...I'm only using H1 and H4 on both sides of the stern post and omitting H2 and H3
 

 
The only difference in the finished parts of H1 and H4 is the length that attaches to the transom to give the curvature of the stern fascia and this was cut to the correct size
 
H1 and H4 templates were then used by subtracting 5mm for the transom to give me the shaping for the planking below the transom. Below shows these fitted and then filled with balsa and shaped
 
 
 

 
Finally H4's are  glued in place, with a bit of additional padding (3mm mdf) to help with the run of planking.  This will be sanded for a fair line.
 
 
 

 
I'm not installing the H1's at this stage as they will interfere with the planking
 
Hope this all makes some sort of sense.
 
Thanks for looking in
 
Mark
 
 

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

Hello,
the wheels are mostly ready. The paint would't dry, so it took a lot longer then normal. I don't know why 🤔

and that is what you will see when the mast is installed. When there also the binnacle stand in front of the mast, you will see nearly nothing of the wheels 

So, here they are in there full beauty 

But there is also a last problem. The rope to the tiller. In the drawing for the 1745 establishment they draw there something what I interpret as coamings with a lid. Most models have there nothing, or just two wholes in the deck, where the rope disappeared. 
I would at least build it so, but not so large and with two slits for the rope. But not with these sliding foots. I think, that they where a later innovation. But may be, someone of you know there more. 
  
 

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

I wouldn't sweat it. Nobody's going to notice 1/16" after the model is completed. As for raising them all at once or after completed there's really no right or wrong. On a full hull I usually install them in sections to get a feel if they are aligned more or less. Any minor inconsistencies can sometimes be cheated by adjusting the next frame. But on this cross section there is so little change in the half-breadth that it's probably not a factor.

Somewhat of a crowning moment having finally glued on the stern and Qtr Galleries, all close gun port lids are on, minus the gun chaser lids and the tedious gilding is ongoing but looking pretty good thus far.
Thanks for looking
Michael D.

This was a fun week.  I finished the stern details.  These included building the second seat, which I'm happy to say is close to identical to the first.  I made the horse for the boom sheet out of 22 gauge annealed wire, with washers made from .062" diameter styrene rod with the center .028" drilled out for the wire.  I cut and formed the transom knees, and glued those on.  I then shaped and added the cleats.  These I had bought from Chuck a long time ago.  I see he currently offers cleats in 5mm, 7mm, and 9mm.  I have 9mm and 6mm on hand.  So for the cleats on the transom knees, I shortened the 6mm to 5mm, and used the 9mm and 6mm cleats in the other areas of the stern.  I see in these enlarged photos a couple of spots that need touching up, but I'm otherwise happy with the way these details turned out.
 
Erik

Some more progress. I've installed the wales, the lower one was difficult to bend at the stern but I got it done. I've also gone ahead and trimmed the frames to their (almost) correct height and made the cutouts for the upper gun emplacements (not shown on the first photo which is from a week ago).
I'm now turning my attention to the interior, I installed the keelson and will start on the strakes on which the deck beams are resting.

Here’s last night’s effort, the stem. It took a fair amount of time to get the parts to fit well, the angle cut of the laser is a bugger and careful sanding is required to get gap free joints. I mostly used a file and sanding sticks, I also used with excellent results my Byrnes 4” sander (RIP Jim, we miss you) for trimming down the joints that Chuck points out is his build. Overall it was a pleasant experience. Now to start the taper...
 
 Best Regards …. Rick

If I look to your frame I am afraid that you do not have enough meet, if you grind the whole structure. If I cut the pieces out, I look that I see always a little white paper on the outside of a frame. With this you have always enough room to equal small but normal tolerancies

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face.
 
If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years.
 
Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)