dvm27

Started chapter 10.   The rudder is first thing.
 
The usual treatment for rudder.  It is laser cut and etched on both sides with some lines for the ironwork and to simulate the two parts of the rudder.   The laser char is removed from all edges until its pretty clean.
 
Then the protective strip on the aft side is shaped and glued into position.  But dont add the bolts yet.   The rudder must be shapped first with a taper.  It tapers thinner from the top of this protective strip (5/64" x 5/16") down to the bottom on the aft side.   And from the forward side towards the aft edge as well.  I am sure you guys have seen this before yet so many kit builds still have a massively thick rudder.  The forward edge is also beveled where the rudder hinges will be...again you have probably seen this detail before.  Once the rudder is shaped and I applied some wipe-on-poly, I was able to add the simulated bolts with some 20lb. black line.
 


Now it was time to do a test fit on the model and see how things look.  You want to pay close attention to the height of rudder head.  It will pass all the way through and into the rudder cover on the poop deck.
 
This is why we didnt glue that top on the rudder cover yet.  If the height looks good, you can actually mark where the tiller will be inserted into the rudder head.   See below.  I did bevel the top of the rudder head but it doesnt really matter since this will be all covered up anyway.  After marking for the tiller I drilled part way through the rudder head with a 3/32" but.
 

 
Here is a view from below...everything seems to fit nicely so I can proceed with the ironwork.  Notice how I removed the brace on the build board but left the strips for the keel slot.  The rudder sits in there good and this will be a great help when trying to get those rudder hinges on.  It holds everything nice and steady.   You just have to make sure everything is sittin properly in that slot and pushed all the way down to the baseboard.
 

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

The bench really ties the room together  Very realistic and human-like! And a neat description of the dependency chain in the beginning of the post  

Liu started assembling the cant frames at the bow because I haven't sent him the stern jig yet.



 
 
I agree with Greg that the stern structure requires skill and is quite challenging. Several years ago, I discussed the assembly of the stern components with BiTao, who is an excellent modeler with great skills. I watched him assemble the stern,same method  as Edward's—using a significant amount of allowance.
I conducted tests on the wing transom, stern post, and fashion piece. After finishing the processing of these components, I left most of them exposed on my office desk without any wrapping for over a year. Then I put them in a box for about two years. During this period, they went through several seasons. In my city, spring is a rainy season with high humidity that lasts for 2-3 months, followed by a hot summer and a dry winter. Finally, after testing, it was found that the deformation of the wing transom was approximately 0.7mm.So when I processed the filling transom, I only allowed a 0.7mm allowance, but Liu insisted that I shouldn't leave any allowance.
 
Another batch of components, which is what you see being assembled, was mostly processed 4 years ago and then sent to Xi'an, a city in northwest China where Liu is located. After several years, that city is relatively dry. Having been transported from the southern part of China, which is humid, to the dry northwest region, these components have gone through about 4 full years. There is indeed some deformation, and in the coming days, Liu will show us the effect of reassembling these components that have been stored for 4 years.   I will introduce some tools I designed myself to correct the deformation of the wood, which should be used at some point in the future if Liu finds that the deformation of the components exceeds the allowable range.     The main reason for using CNC to process ship model components is to simplify the assembly difficulty and let the machine handle the tedious polishing work.    

Milestone reached as this completes chapter 9.  All of the deck fittings except for the binnacle have been completed.   The last fitting was the rudder cover.   Again very straight forward.  All parts are laser cut.
 
To begin you must build the jig.  Just glue the part labeled "jig" on top of the square with the etched outline.
 

Then start adding the sides of the rudder cover.  Start with the back panel.  All corners will be mitered or beveled.  I just eye-balled it with a sanding stick.
 

Work your way forward and then finish up with the front panel.  Remember not to glue the rudder cover to the jig!!!
 
In addition, you can build the lid or top of the rudder cover.  It is in two layers as shown.  But dont glue it on yet.  This wont be done until after the rudder is installed and the tiller is added.  I did go ahead and paint them red however.
 


You can test fit this on deck...but notice the small step behind the rudder cover.   This is the step for the ensign staff.   This must be added first.  I have laser cut a bunch for you as they are small.  You must bevel the back side to fit snug against the transom.   The front side should be beveled as well to sit flush against the rudder cover.  You can glue them in position, but remember not to glue the top on for the rudder cover yet.  If you do ... you will never get that till inserted into the rudder head.
 

But you can sit the top in position and nobody will know it isnt glued on yet!!
 

Thats it...all fittings completed.   To begin chapter 10 I will be making the rudder and tiller.  Fun times.
 

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!

Great video and incredible models, in that scale. Thank you for the link.
 
Yves

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.

That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.

Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!

Liu completed the assembly of the Hawse pieces today.
 

 


 
This is Wang's 1/4" scale pear wood version.
 


 

 
 
 

I hope my fellow Speedwell builders will allow me this indulgence.   The breast rail at the fore end of the poop deck is actually quite plain on the contemporary model.  I usually try to faithfully keep my models to historically correct details but I couldnt resist.  The original draft for the Sloop Fly which is her sister has a very detailed and fancy rail quite different than the plain one on Speedwell.  I have decided to go with that rendition.  It is made in the usual fashion for my fittings.  Nothing earth shattering.  They are just laser cut pieces in layers.  The top rail for example is made by sandwiching 3 thin layers together.  The top and bottom layers are just .025 thick.  The center layer is a robust 1/32" thick.  I still thinned down the top and bottom layers even more after gluing them up as a sandwich.   
 
The only thing that is really important here is to make sure that the two outer columns are lined up with their partners below on the bulkhead between the windows.  I also had had to take care in forming the curve on the column next to the dome roof.  It had to be sanded to fit nicely around that curve and sit flush against it.  The close-ups are brutal and yes I have a lot of paint touch up in my future.
 
The top of the rail is painted black as was done on the contemporary model while the remaining areas are painted red.  Only one fitting remains and that is the rudder trunk cover.   I will make that next.  I will add a binnacle as well, but leave that for the next chapter after the rudder is installed.   
 

 

 

 

I rarely see the breast hooks fitted at this stage but it is a great idea!

The slipway at Bucklers Hard has been archaeologically excavated and an article on BBC News posted:
 
https://www.bbc.com/news/articles/c0qll3j0evyo