Padeen

In between the work on the masts I started on the first boat, Caldercrafts 24’ cutter.
 
The rips were made according CC’s instructions. Contrary to them the floorboards were not mounted on the prepared piece of plywood but directly on the floor. A cockpit floor and a small ’deck’ up front (I wonder what’s that actually called?) were added.
For those 2 details and a lot more information I used Chuck’s beautiful longboat as source – thank you, Chuck. The rowlocks were filed into the side as per CC’s instruction.
 
Further detailing of the boats interior will not be made as the smaller cutter will be stowed inside this one. For the coloring I followed mostly the instructions and just added some blue to make it ‘the blue cutter’.
 
 

The rips are made from cartridge paper
 

Floorboards are added and the risers are being glued in place
 

Cockpit floor added (the boat sits on a copy of Chuck’s longboat- that’s a perhaps a bit impertinent)
 

It’s now the ‘blue’ cutter
 

Front platform added
 

Cockpit seats added – the captain inspects the new boat
 

Provisionally stowed – looking at those pictures I think I will have to make a kind of support to keep the boat stable on the spars
 

Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
 

 
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp.  I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway.  On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops.  The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
 

 

 

 

 

 

Build update:
 
Finished mounting and rigging the carronades on the poop deck.  Wasn't sure how to rig them properly, so I took my best shot.  The drawing I have shows the train tackles bulkhead eyelets spaced about the length away from the perpendicular.  I had two problems: one being the lack on bulkhead on this deck and second if I put the eyelets this distance the two aft most carronades rigging would overlap.  I guess the train tackles were spaced as specified to allow it to be pulled parallel with the deck.  I just mounted a eyelet for running out, breeching and train next to one another on each side.  I also think there was a tackle running on each side from the front eyelet on the slide of the carronade to an aft eyelet on deck for the purpose of bringing the slide aft for loading.  I had seen a drawing of this, but can't find it.  There are so many versions of carronade assemblies.  I've attached the picture of the one I used for example.  Would be great to have a reference for the use of each eyelet.
 
For rigging I used single and double blocks (3/32) purchased from Syren Model Company. The rigging line for breeching is from Amati and the tackles are DMC 100 and using UNI-thread 6/0 for seizings.  Hooks are made from black annealed #28 gauge wire.
 
Made up purchased buckets from Amati (these are made attaching two halves which did have some offset therefore required sanding, not good).  I did make the mistake of only purchasing 8, but 12 are needed to complete bucket rail, oh well.  Made the handles from 32 black annealed wire.
 
Presently working on the hammock cranes netting.  I'm using a material that I purchased when building my HMS Fly from JoAnn Fabrics (craft store).  It only comes in black, but has the diamond shape and pretty close to scale.  I think I paid about $1.25 for a yard of the stuff which is enough for many builds.  Prior to mounting this material, I ran DMC 40 thread through each hammock crane and secured a knot on each end.  Then made strips of eight rows of diamonds from the netting, folded in half and pushed into position, then using UNI-thread 6/0  tied a knot connecting each top diamond to the top thread rail.  Once complete used diluted Vallejo black paint, therefore the reason for covering deck.  Thin paint will spatter.
 
Continuing on.

Boy... am I ever slow.  Life, work, and getting things set up to retire have all taken their toll. 
 
One of the first things I had to do was make a new zero tolerance insert for the table saw.  The old plastic one finally gave up the ghost.  So... after some fiddling with metal and plastic, I grabbed some scrap wood and had at it.

 
Then it was back to cutting planks and planking. I have only one side and small part of that done.  From the wale line up to the channel wale on the port side.  Needs to have the channel wale added and then sand like crazy and finish opening and tidying up the gunports. 
 

14/08/2010
OK, so let's begin!
I numbered all the frames and knightheads and began following the instructions to glue the knightheads on the false keel and place the frames. My first problem was: would it be best to cut square the mast bottom part to fit between the knightheads or rather drill these and leave the mast have its circular section...    I decided for the second solution after discussing that with some of you here. Meanwhile, I put the stand parts together.


 

After a great lot of patient sanding I got all the frames glued on the false keel. I don't know how it is with other kits but not a single piece fitted at first because they cut 4 mm wide holes when the plywood sheet was closer to 5 mm thick    . But, perhaps it is better than the other way round: it is still easier to remove wood than add some...
I used some cardboard pieces to equally space the frames while glueing the false deck (a 2 mm thick plywood sheet). It did the trick    .

Here is the build log of my first model ship. This build, now completed, was started in June 2010 and the first part of the build log (untill June 2011) was done on DDM. After DDM was lost in Jullly 2011, I started this log again on MSW and ended it there in March 2012. I will put the date of the original posts as I go along.
 
So here we are:
 
 
14/08/2010 Welcome aboard my first command, a 1:35 model of the French cutter Le Camaret ! Here is part of the description given by Constructo about this ship: "At one time lobsters were plentiful along the West coast of Brittany. In the early part of the 20th century the Camaret fishermen used several different types of boats to catch these crustaceans: luggers with vertical stems, sloops with elegant sheers and sterns and cutters such as the one you have here. All the Camaret lobsters boats had a characteristic type of upperworks, but the feature wich really distinguished them were the fish tanks wich communicated with the sea by means of openings under the hull called the fish tank ports. The key task was to bring the precious cargo home alive."   So, there will be no guns on this cutter but rather fish boxes intended to catch lobsters...   Let's open the box: all the small parts come in little plastic bags, everything is numbered and referenced on a list at the end of the instruction booklet as well as on the three ~A1 sheets of plans. There is plenty of everything, more planking material than needed so you can experiment. There are different kinds of wood: manzonia, sapele, boxwood, pine... (As is usual with Constructo apparently, there will be no paint so they play with several shades of wood). My first concern was to identify those woods as I did not know their respective colors, except for pine. There is also a great sheet of cloth for the sails and two colors of threads: one for the hauling part and the other for the standing part.   The instructions are rather clear (in particular they lead you by the hand for the hull planking) and many photos help clarify the text. Most details on complex parts are explained with sketchs on the plans, as well as the rigging which is well documented. You have a choice among seven languages. The French is very good and as far as I can tell the English is good too (it does make my life easy to translate and explain all this here anyway  ).

Now the work on the main topgallant mast could continue.
The shrouds were a straightforward job (no ratlines!!!!!).
 
The size of the backstays had to be corrected. Again they should be made of the same rope as the stay. The lower ends however presented a problem.
According to the plan and James Lees a thimble should be used. As such parts are not provided with the kit I used a small dead eye on the backstay of the mizzen topmast but this looks somewhat oversized. Now I tried to simulate it with just an eye split. But this looks wrong as well. Therefore I ordered the smallest thimbles available from cornwallmodellboats and will have a try.
 
While waiting for them I started fixing the spare spars with some hidden nails in preparation for placing the ships boats. Those will be Caldercrafts 24’ cutter and 19’ launch.
 
 
 

Work on main topgallant mast has been stopped after the first backstay
 

Unsatisfactory lower backstay end with spliced eye
 

Mizzen topmast backstay with rather large deadeye
 

Spare spars in place and shells of boats placed provisionally

Hi Chris
 
Your Victory looks a truly wonderful ship.
However her size could somehow reach a ‘critical mass’ in the eyes of the admiralty when discussing where to berth the finished model.
 
Therefore a smaller model of a heavy frigate would probably fit better in many a household. Although Shannon is somehow similar to Diana there are still quite a few points in her favor besides those already mentioned: Not only has she British and American connections but also French – her lines seem based on those of the captured French frigate Hebe. http://www.kenthistoryforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14775.0
And the fact that she was also mentioned in Patrick O’Brian’s books won’t really reduce her chances for a commercial success.
 
Perhaps a kit variant to build Hebe would also be possible (albeit I have no idea of their relative sizes).
 
I only hope that you find somebody to produce the kits for all your splendid models. There is still Bellona and didn’t you also build a Cutty Sark?
 
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Peter

**Walks in, has a look at the latest posts... gazes at the newest pictures...nods knowingly and walks away quietly, innocently, whistling "Let it snow, let it snow let it snow"**
 
 

The New topmast could be set up using the existing rope work. Initially the top cap was left off so the shrouds and stays could slip over the new mast. Then they were set up with the old deadeyes and new lanyards. Only one ratline broke and had to be retied. Now it’s better than new and it was an interesting piece of work.
 
 

The captain checks the new topmast from the main top
 
 

Backstays are in place again
 
 

A last critical gaze from the captain – all is well

I see some have begun their hobby with solid hull.........to me,  I would think that they are much harder to build,  due to the way in which the hull is shaped.   my hat's off to you folks     I also believe that the level system is a bit off.......to a person just starting out.....they ALL are equally daunting.   but,  to tell the truth,  I would recomend an advanced beginner's kit {billing's}, over some of their other kits.  gee,  I started my venture with what they considered,  an expert level kit,  and to be quite frank.......I couldn't tell the difference.  I agree with Mark, that Midwest has a pretty good kit......their instructions are very good.  for those who followed the build of the lobsie twins....you know the mistake I made,  and how quick it was to scratch out another boat using the plans they supplied.  but this exposes the other side of it all.
 
the builder:  the plans alone,  are enough to scare the bejebbers out of anyone.   this would be especially daunting for a person with no previous modeling experience.......but that's not to say that it can't be done.  you folks have covered it quite well......do you want this?  do you have even a speck of creativity?   if you do,  then your going in the right direction.   this hobby is so multi-facited....it is a mix of sculpting,  painting,  and wood working.....there's something in here for everybody.   you get out of it what you put into it.  it is said that one would need knowledge in general.......I think the willingness to learn is better though.......you'll get more out of it.
 
folks don't craft as much as they used to.......everything is bought in a store......someone elses concept of what they think would look good in your home.   some of it is butt-ugly.........displaying something you made yourself......is much better.

Thanks Mike.
 
Ok.. I lied.. not intentionally... I couldn't wait to shape the whelps.  It has a few rough spots to be cleaned up, but I'm pretty darn happy with it.
 

@chris watton
 
OK, I am in the middle of spraying the hull in matt varnish, before I add the rope railings.
 
This is what I am using:

 
A compressor, a crappy old spray gun (I do have a Badger airbrush, but all I want is a good overall spray of the whole thing) 75% varnish and 25% white spirit:
 

 
The hull is still slightly wet, as I have just finished the third light spray:
 

 
(Sorry about the state of the garage/workshop - we haven't long moved in and getting the large double garage sorted will be done next year...)
 










 
The poop isn't fixed in place - am waiting for new poop bulkheads bits to arrive....
 
These are the old ones (hull shown before cleaning up and dusting...) Also, Although you can't see it very well, the sides of the gangway and steps are panelled as per the original - using PE parts. Sharp eyed amongst you will also see only 4 belaying pins on the forward most rack on the quarterdeck bulwarks. This is because I realised that with the cavil cleat in place, there wasn't room for the 5 holed rack - I have since redrawn the rack so the kit will have 5 pins, and not 4 as shown.
 

This is not so much of an update, it's a nice sunny day, so before I go back to work tomorrow, I thought I'd head outside and try to take a few photos.
 
Andy

I agree with the above.
 
If I had to summarize, I would say that an entry level wooden ship model kit should fulfill these caracteristics:
- be a subject that you really like: if your heart is not with it you'll never finish it or you'll do it laboriously, without pleasure,
- be rather small (say one or two masts, cutter or sloop, unless your soul cannot rest with something smaller than a three-decker! in wich case it's no use to buy a cutter!) so that each construction step is rather fast and you can feel that you are actually progressing: each milestone achieved gives you confidence wich is the main requirement to achieve a first build I think. This also allows to change of task quite often so that the build does not fall into monotony.
- have decent instructions: pictures of construction steps, mentioning ALL part numbers involved at each step, DETAILED part list and MULTIPLE plans is a minimum (to be able to say that the 'wathever it is that is called a stanchion' is actually part #30 and goes there... and that this long stick of brown wood that's 4x4x300 mm will be used to built the roof...)
- be at a rather large scale, mainly to simplify the rigging step: these tiny blocks can be a bit frightening...
- have a reasonably low price so that you can buy tools and books (unless you already have a well furnished workshop, that is) but not too low so that you have a box with good quality material in it.
- oh, and did I mention it? BE A MODEL YOU REALLY LIKE!
- and maybe... be a kit that has been built or is beeing built by a MSW member!
 
My first build possed all these qualities (except the last one) and it fulfilled its job: I'm in!

Thanks Kevin.  I know you're out there as I follow your wonderful HMS Victory!
 
Save your money Sherry.  Here at the shipyard, progress is not necessarily our most important product.  Just spent about 6 hours rigging my topsail buntlines only to discover I used the wrong diameter line.  Took a lot less time to 'de-rig'    .  Now I get to do them again.
 
Is this a great hobby or not?

Add me to the list of those on their second read.
 
I wonder if others, like me, have found the second reading more enjoyable than the first?
I am finding more detail than before and being in no hurry to turn the page I can dwell on any aspect of a story that takes my fancy.
 
The canon has been my constant companion for the last two years and I cannot imagine I shall ever tire of it.
 
I give you joy,
 
Mike.

Adeline,
 
It's looking great!  You're doing and excellant job....  Keep the post coming in, its a pleasure watching your progress!
 
Cheers,
Tim

Good Morning Adeline.
I just finished going through your Le Camaret build log and this one. I really enjoyed your build of the little Lobster boat. I still need to sort out what you have already done on the "simple" rigging. An Now your new build is coming together nicely. All you have learned on the first will be foundation for this one. I will follow along.
 
Michael

With Frank getting back on his feet and Sjors turning his attention to the Spanish fleet, I thought it would be a good time for a small update with some long promised photos.
 
The main and fore lower yards have been completed with the exception of the braces and sheets as I would surely entangle myself if those were in place.  The spaghetti all over the deck are those ropes ready to be deployed later.
 
The main and fore topsail yards have been pinned in place and are ready to be rigged.  We'll set the rigging spiders loose after celebrating the Memorial Day holiday here in the US.
 

 

 

 

 
I gotta tell ya that this rigging is a slow process but I haven't had so much fun since........planking......or was it coppering?
 
 

Well done Popeye! You can be proud of her, she is a beauty! 

Ah... the taking of the Cacafuego by the little Sophie!   Do you plan to build a model of the Xebec in your collection?
Your little model is wonderful: so much detail at this scale, well done! I think I am going to follow your builds with as much pleasure as O'Brian's novels...

Cheers
 
Will have to see how the Victory is received, regarding the size. I remember well the market research Amati undertook regarding sizes, and at the time Vanguard was considered the largest we'd want to go to please the largest percentage of model kit builders - any bigger then you get a lot of modellers say "Yes, it's very nice, but too big for my workspace". vanguard has sold very well, partly due, I'd wager to the size - it's not overly huge and yet big enough to add a lot of detail. I am sure that if I had done it in 64th scale, the sales would have been half of what they have been.
 
 Victory is different, as it has been been developed as Victory Models/Amati's Flagship model and something to aspire to - with plenty of scope for seasoned modeller's who want to add a lot more of their own detail, especially on the decks and in the cabins without having to chop away half of the interior just to get to that stage.
 
No model will ever be perfect and you will never be able to please everyone - people will always moan that it's either too big or too small (very rarely do we hear/read that the model is just the right size). All we can do is minimise the complaints by doing as much homework as possible, never think that you know it all (I certainly don't) and accept constructive criticism and implement when and where possible. The moment you think that you're infallible and believe yourself better than the rest is the moment you start heading downhill. Personally, I try out outdo the last design with every new kit, with ease of construction and even more detail a priority. The alternative is to keep plodding on with the same type of designs and ultimately die of abject boredom...

I got the first one done.. actually I got two done, but the second went flying off into the ether.  Must be a space warp or time gate in my workshop.... 
 
First pic shows an overall side view.
 

 
The next one is through a gunport to show it in position.
 

 
I'm hating the macro.. shows every nick and bit of dirt....  I still need to make the pump rod.
And a confession.. that's not metal.  The straps are paper and the pipe is some insulation stripped from a wire.
 

David,
You'll enjoy it!
 
Brian,
I just feel like you: I already read them twice in French and I'm nearnly finished reading them in English... and there will be a twice soon! He is the Jane Austen of the sea and indeed it is sad that he passed away so soon... But there is always something to be gained in re-reading the series, and the more you make models, the more you actually understand the nautical terms, well... a bit more than Stephen hopefully!