bogeygolpher
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Etcher in OcCre San Francisco Cable Car by bogeygolpher - FINISHED
A very nice model 1:24 scale about 15" long. Do not attempt this kit unless you are comfortable doing a lot of painting. Every single piece of this model has to be painted and some painted two or three times. Other than that, a relatively easy build.
Paul
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Charter33 in painting hull - moved to the painting forum by moderator
This is what I used. I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface. I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans. I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull.
Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line. Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section. Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is. Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be. This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape. Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape. You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in painting hull - moved to the painting forum by moderator
This is what I used. I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface. I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans. I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull.
Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line. Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section. Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is. Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be. This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape. Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape. You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in painting hull - moved to the painting forum by moderator
This is what I used. I placed supports under the top rail where necessary to make sure the keel was level with the work surface. I determined where the water line was by taking measurements off the plans. I marked that spot on the hull then transferred the mark to the cup in situ and drove the pencil through the cup and ran it around the hull.
Because you are printing three colors on the hull I suggest you estimate where the middle of the Black will be then paint the yellow and white close to that line. Then using whatever means you choose, mark the actual upper and lower lines for the black section. Mask over the yellow paint to where the upper black line is and the white to where the lower black line is. Now using clear lacquer apply a thin coat to the edges of the masking tape where the black paint will be. This seals the edge and ensures no paint will get under the masking tape. Now paint the black portion and before the paint dries completely, carefully remove the masking tape. You should now have nice crisp lines on the hull.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Old Collingwood in OcCre San Francisco Cable Car by bogeygolpher - FINISHED
A very nice model 1:24 scale about 15" long. Do not attempt this kit unless you are comfortable doing a lot of painting. Every single piece of this model has to be painted and some painted two or three times. Other than that, a relatively easy build.
Paul
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Messis,
I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship.
If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built.
In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from thibaultron in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Messis,
I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship.
If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built.
In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from mischief in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Messis,
I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship.
If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built.
In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
-
bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Messis,
I completely agree with wefalks engineering point. However, keep in mind this model, in all probability, is going to be static and certainly not subjected to the same strains and stresses of a working ship.
If you are building this on commission for display in a museum then you need to make it as accurate as possible and spare no expenses. If you are building it to display in your living room who, other than you, will know if any part is completely accurate? Either way, this is a model and it is in fact a representation and also because of scale it is nearly impossible to construct it exactly the same as a real ship would be built.
In the end, this is your ship and your build. I suggest you do what you feel comfortable with. Try to enjoy the hobby and don't let it overwhelm you.
-
bogeygolpher got a reaction from thibaultron in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
If you are unsure about the CA holding the blocks in place use 5 minute epoxy instead. Once cured the mast would break before the block would come loose. However, as I said previously I have built 7 ships and have not had a block secured with thick CA come loose. I have had the brass wire break because I had wound it too tight.
The photo gives me the impression that this is a metal mast which probably meant the blocks were somehow bolted on to the mast in real life. Very difficult to simulate in scale and there probably would have been no wrapping involved.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
If you are unsure about the CA holding the blocks in place use 5 minute epoxy instead. Once cured the mast would break before the block would come loose. However, as I said previously I have built 7 ships and have not had a block secured with thick CA come loose. I have had the brass wire break because I had wound it too tight.
The photo gives me the impression that this is a metal mast which probably meant the blocks were somehow bolted on to the mast in real life. Very difficult to simulate in scale and there probably would have been no wrapping involved.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from thibaultron in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Christos,
It is indeed my pleasure to be able to pass on the lessons I have learned from members of this site as well as those based on my personal experience.
Enjoy the hobby.
Happy Holidays to you.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
Christos,
It is indeed my pleasure to be able to pass on the lessons I have learned from members of this site as well as those based on my personal experience.
Enjoy the hobby.
Happy Holidays to you.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from barkeater in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Mahuna in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from thibaultron in Which Glue: cooper wire on wood
I drilled holes in the mast as well as on the chainplates that allowed little or no slop room ( I wanted to force the twisted brass wire into the holes). After trimming the wire, I filled the holes with thick CA then positioned the blocks in them and allowed the CA to dry for 24 hours. I never had one detach later.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from mtaylor in Can I delete one of my activity streams?
I found the answer to my problem in the sticky about activity streams by Chuck.
When I performed a search for this information I came up blank, probably another user error.
Paul
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from James H in Can I delete one of my activity streams?
I found the answer to my problem in the sticky about activity streams by Chuck.
When I performed a search for this information I came up blank, probably another user error.
Paul
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Canute in Masking and primer layer
Another alternative is to use either auto pin striping tape or tapes available from chartpak in the width you want. I used chartpak tape for the waterline on the Bluenose II that I built 35 years ago and it still looks as good as the day it was put on. I used clear lacquer to coat the tape once installed.
As is typical, I responded half way through a thought and assumed you would know where I was. Let me make myself clear on this. I did not paint a waterline, I used tape instead of paint for the waterline.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from thibaultron in Masking and primer layer
Another alternative is to use either auto pin striping tape or tapes available from chartpak in the width you want. I used chartpak tape for the waterline on the Bluenose II that I built 35 years ago and it still looks as good as the day it was put on. I used clear lacquer to coat the tape once installed.
As is typical, I responded half way through a thought and assumed you would know where I was. Let me make myself clear on this. I did not paint a waterline, I used tape instead of paint for the waterline.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from LEGION 12 in marking water line
Try this for an inexpensive marker.
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bogeygolpher got a reaction from Ainars Apalais in OcCre San Francisco Cable Car by bogeygolpher - FINISHED
A very nice model 1:24 scale about 15" long. Do not attempt this kit unless you are comfortable doing a lot of painting. Every single piece of this model has to be painted and some painted two or three times. Other than that, a relatively easy build.
Paul
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