captainbob

Engineering space is starting to come together

Just a few more shots of the engine, have added a few things have a few to go.

Thank you all for your constructive and complementary comments, and for the visits.
 
The Saga continues.
I finished cutting out the parts for the new Davit. The 8x32 thumbscrews make it much easier on my fingers Allows me to concentrate more on following the line than being a human clamp.
 

 

 
All the parts cut and cleaned up.
 

 
And dry assembled I turned down the shaft from some 3/16 which allowed me to start at the small end which is .025" then the long part is .038" and the handle end .081" while it was still part of the 3/16 shaft i drilled the cross hole in the same way as for the sliding collar that moves the davit forward.
The picture shows the hole being drilled in the collar which was shaped afterwards in the pin vise with some #4 flat files.
 
 
 
 

 
The main frame side parts were annealed before folding, I needed to keep reminding myself that these parts were handed a left and a right (made that type of mistake too many times to count.)
 
Set them up in the new clamps in the third hand I am liking the difference between the two types the parallel one holding the side and the single screw one holding the centre plate, it takes a while sometimes to do the set up but I cannot imaging going back to the old unit with the crocodile clips
 

 
Used the Duz-all flux and a tiny flake of solder the hot air soldering gun and away she went. the next picture shows the other end after it was soldered.
 
 
 
After cleaning it up in some hot vinegar and baking soda with a toothbrush A coat of Modelmaster black enamel.
 
Michael
 

That's what happens as we get older.  Welcome to the club.
 
Bob

That's what happens as we get older.  Welcome to the club.
 
Bob

That's what happens as we get older.  Welcome to the club.
 
Bob

That's what happens as we get older.  Welcome to the club.
 
Bob

I got to tryout my Sherline lathe on serious work for the first time.  There is pawl ring under the capstans.  It is round.  First hint the lathe may be the right tool.  The object was to cut a ring with a channel in it.  Since the capstan covers it the inner portion does not matter.
 

First I built a carrier jig to hold the piece I'll be working on.  It's just a piece of flat 1/4" stock glued to the end of a dowel.  It will be reusable for the other ring and maybe something else.  I faced it on the lathe to make sure the final piece would not vary in thickness and left it in the chuck.  Then I glued the pattern (approximately) in the center and temporarily tacked and clamped the working piece (1/16" board) to the jig and let it dry overnight.
 

 
I blew the first attempt.  I ended up with a chip in the outer portion of the ring.  (no picture).  Higher speed and slower feed corrected the problem on the second try.
 

The inner section will be covered by the capstan so the finish does not matter.  Big improvement.  It took me twice as much time soaking in iso. and prying it off the jig as it took to set up and cut.
Next come the pawl stops in the channel.  25 Lb. monofilament line cut into little pieces and (CA) glued in place.
 

 
Now it all gets painted "iron black" so it looks like metal and a lot of the detail disappears.
Maury
 
 
 

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

I go through this same process with every boat I build.  I have yet to see a printed set of lines that are correct in all three orientations.  Keep on with the instructions.  You will have to adjust some lines to get things to line up correctly but eventually everything will line up and you will have a correct set of lines.  It all takes time and work.
 
Bob

I'll have to follow your build.  An anchor hoy is one of the boats on my long list.
 
Bob

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Part 5 – The Stem Knee, Keel, and Worm Shoe


 
The stem knee supports the inner stem, has a 5” square socket to support the Sampson Post, and has a mortise on each side for the foreward-most frame.  The following photo shows the stem knee drawing, which was mirrored for aligning the two sides of the knee.


 
                                  
 


A small chisel was used to cut the socket and the frame mortises into the stem knee.  Because the knee was fairly small, I used the work setup shown in the following photos.


 

 

A 5” x 5” strip was used to check the accuracy of the socket for the Sampson Post.


 

 

The stem knee was then glued in place.

 


 
The rest of the keel (aft of the centerboard slot) was installed as two pieces.  The first piece was installed at the beginning of the curve in the keelson.


 



 
The aft keel piece was formed from 3 separate timbers.


 


 
This aft piece was then glued in place.


 


 
This completed the Keelson/Keel assembly.


 


 
There is a ‘worm shoe’ installed under the keel, as a protection for the keel.  This is made from pine and is only 2 “ thick.  The following photo shows the worm shoe being installed.


 


 
The cutwater and outer stem were fabricated, but only temporarily installed at this point.  The outer stem will cover the plank ends, and will be tapered from the planks down to the width of the cutwater, so this work will be left until the planking is installed.  The profile of the outer stem has been cut, and holes have been drilled to allow the outer stem to be temporarily mounted to the inner stem.  In addition, a slot was milled in the forward face of the outer stem for installation of the cutwater.


 

 


 
The following photo shows the completed Keelson / Keel / Stem assembly, with the temporary installation of the cutwater.


 


 
And, finally, mounts were created to keep the keel assembly at the proper height from the shipway, and the assembly was mounted to the shipway.


 


 
With the assembly now mounted in place, it’s time to start making and installing the frames for Kathryn.


 
Thanks everyone for following along, and especially for the Likes and comments.

Pat:
The challenge here is that the inside of the pilot house will be visible, as opposed to a schooner's trunk cabin interior which is not. In this pilot house, I will need to install the interior paneling, dashboard with wheel, and the bunk. I am working it out, little by little, but it is a challenge to get it to look right.
 
Russ
 
 

Walt,
 
Good to hear the wife is doing better.  It will be nice for you to have her home.
 
I used to work in 3D SolidWorks.  It's great for designing.  But for drawing parts and checking plans, I find 2D cad to be enough for my models.
 
Bob

WOW, what courage to drill those portholes.  Fine job.
 
Bob

That method shows up in "Ship Modeler's Shop Notes".  It's nice to see it used.
 
Bob

You made a fine hatch from very little information.  Well done.
 
Bob

They say every part is a model unto it's self.  You have made a beautiful little model of this deckhouse area.
 
Bob

Beautiful stairs I may need that kind of thinking on my next build.
 
Bob

Nice prop and mounting.
 
Bob

Just found your beautiful build of this lovely boat.
 
Bob