captainbob

She's a fine boat.  Well done.
 
Bob

I present, for your perusal, my Schooner Bluenose with a full set of sails.
 
After attaching the Fore Sail, I rigged up the Main Sail, and then added the Fore Top and the Main Top Sails.
 

 
At this point I was able to rig the two Gaffs.
 

 
With the top masts in place, it allowed me to proceed to the Stay Sail then add the three Jib Sails.
 
Port Side:

 
Starboard Side:
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All the running rigging is in place and routed to their respective belaying points.  I now have to install the Belaying Pins, tie off the various lines, and add rope coils.
 
The Admiral was looking over my shoulder while I was finishing up the Bow Sprit and asked if the model was finished.  It took a little while to explain that I still have belay all the running rigging the lash the Deadeyes to the standing rigging and tie the ratlines.  There’s still a bit of building yet.
 

Because of the comparative stiffness of model sail cloth and rigging I don’t think you can make the gaff heavy enough. 
Have you considered pulling the gaff down?  
 
Bob

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

What a great time of the year, not only the holidays, but all the college football games.  I’m not going to get much done on this build for the next three weeks.   I did manage however to clean up the bulkheads and dry fit them, that’s when I found out #14 (third from end) was bad.  You can see in the first picture #14 is not big enough.  So it was back to the drawing board, so to speak, I use DraftSight, and I did find the error.   Picture two shows both #14 bulkheads and then how the new part lines up.
 
And with that I’ll say Merry Christmas to all, with wishes for a great 2014.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

All are welcome. I only hope you will be entertained by this build.
 
Tom you are correct but when she was rebuilt the break was added and there are pictures that show where it is.  Meanwhile here she is under sail.
 
Bob
 
 

Bob: Thank-you! You'll notice I already changed my screen name. 
 
Robbyn: Thank-you! It's been good 'therapy' to be back building again!

Bedford, she's looking better all the time.
 
Bob

If you keep up with this level of work you’ll have to change your name.  No longer “NEW” and you’re defiantly graduated from “101”.  
 
Bob

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

well Lawrence.......with the scratch builds,  the work area IS the parts inventory     but,  with the kit builds,  I have all the parts in boot boxes {the original boxes are much too large}.   when I want to work on a particular build,  I just pull the box out and have a go.   the instructions have the part lists,  so I'm not too worried about the strip stock.....I can find the wood sizes there.   I also tend to bash my builds a bit........I stick somewhat with the plans,  but I may alter things here and there,  and that may change the size of the wood I use.   I'm working towards an update......soon,  I hope.   thanks for looking in 

Just found this build.  It’s interesting to see the changes you are making. 
 
Bob

What a great time of the year, not only the holidays, but all the college football games.  I’m not going to get much done on this build for the next three weeks.   I did manage however to clean up the bulkheads and dry fit them, that’s when I found out #14 (third from end) was bad.  You can see in the first picture #14 is not big enough.  So it was back to the drawing board, so to speak, I use DraftSight, and I did find the error.   Picture two shows both #14 bulkheads and then how the new part lines up.
 
And with that I’ll say Merry Christmas to all, with wishes for a great 2014.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

What a great time of the year, not only the holidays, but all the college football games.  I’m not going to get much done on this build for the next three weeks.   I did manage however to clean up the bulkheads and dry fit them, that’s when I found out #14 (third from end) was bad.  You can see in the first picture #14 is not big enough.  So it was back to the drawing board, so to speak, I use DraftSight, and I did find the error.   Picture two shows both #14 bulkheads and then how the new part lines up.
 
And with that I’ll say Merry Christmas to all, with wishes for a great 2014.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

I began the rigging process yesterday.  I began by lashing the Main and Fore Sails to their respective booms and gaffs.  The instructions and plans show the Main and Fore Sails lashed to the gaffs, but are secured to the booms only at the corners.  Looking at the photos of the actual Bluenose it shows that these sails were lashed along the entire boom.
 

 
I decided to lash my sails to the booms and gaffs, but opted for a running stitch.  Using a Tapestry Needle gave me enough of an eye in the needle to use 0.25mm rigging line.  The running stitch also allowed me to adjust the tension on the lashing for a uniform appearance.
 

 
I used the same running stitch for the Fore Sail.
 

 
Because I already had the Mast Hoops in place I used a method described by Dave Borgens back in August.  His method uses a simple cow hitch to secure the line on the Mast Hoop then running these lines through the sail to secure it to the Mast Hoop.
 

 
Couldn’t wait to see how the Main Sail looked on the model.
 

 
Now it’s just a matter of securing the appropriate rigging lines to the other sails.
 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

Finally everything is settling back down and getting back to normal.  I got a gift of a sign that makes my work area official, so I went in and started planking.  The plans say the planking is 2 1/2” X 7” and narrower.  That’s .05” X .15” so I’m planking with .07” thick figuring the sanding will take it down to .05”.  In the pictures you can see the gar board and the sheer strakes.  It looks like I will have to use a lot of filler planks at the stern, but that will be a few days yet.  I was looking at the planking of the Bluenose.  The one I was studying used 15 planks bow to stern.  It doesn’t look like I’ll be so lucky.
 
Bob
 

 

 

 

 

I have tapped the keel nuts and epoxied them in, so as not to waste too much epoxy I made the rudder too and epoxied the rudder post into it and coated the wood in epoxy.
 
I needed to make sure the keel nuts would set square to the keel so I drilled two holes in a piece of timber at the same spacing and organised some wires to suspend that with the boat hanging below, this should ensure they are square.
 
I'm flamin' glad it is a lot cooler than when I did the last lot of epoxy work, the keel nuts fell out when I was trying to screw the bolts into them to hang it so I had to dive in with fingers and got epoxy all over them in the process of refitting them, thankfully I had plenty of time to get it all sorted before the epoxy started going off. Did I mention that I LOVE alcohol ! yes that kind too but I mean the isopropyl alcohol, it makes cleaning up an epoxy drama so easy.
 
I am sipping a very nice scotch at the moment too
The steel shaft goes into the groove machined in the rudder and the right angle section goes into the hole in the groove, should be plain to see I think, I have done this in the past with nitro speed boats so I reckon it should be more than strong enough for a schooner. Not sure if I will bother with false brass hinges as they just mean more holes in the hull.
 

 

 
The brass keel nuts are long enough that they protrude beyond the keel. Two reasons, on display they will be the pedestals it rests on and more importantly, when trying to mount the sailing keel it would be hard to get the screws to line up with the holes when working underneath the hull but I will drill holes in the keel that will accept the nuts so they act as dowells. That should make fitting the keel much easier.
 

 

 
In this pic you can see the braces I fitted between the keel and ribs adjacent to the keel nuts to take any lateral strain the keel imposes during sailing.
 

I have also done more work on the hull.
 

 
These are the rear seats. The kit would have the side seats resting on top of the thwarts. I preferred the look of all the seats on the same level, so that's what I did.
 

 
This is the grating as supplied in the kit. It looks rather cheesy, and I can not find any reference to the grating in AOTS: Bounty or any other source I have on hand.
 

 
I therefore cut up some spare wood and fabricated myself a replacement. This hasn't yet been glued in, it was a rough fit for the photo!
 

 
I added a wale, then masked it off and painted it yellow.
 

 
Gunwales added! All the other build logs seem to use the same method to clamp down the gunwales while waiting for the glue to dry. I had plenty of chopsticks on hand, so that's what I used.
 

 
The masts have been completed (L-R): maintmast, foremast, bowsprit. The bowsprit has been finished as per McKay. I calculated it at 82% the length of the foremast. In this kit, the foremast is 32cm, so the bowsprit works out to be 26.2cm.
 

 
Everyone seems to have a different method for aligning the gunwales. Mario (Cap'n Rat Fink) assembled his on the plans, then lofted the entire thing on the model. I didn't like that idea, so I came up with this. After I glued in the gunwales, I masked off the gunwales and levelled off the bow gunwale cheeks. After a good sanding, these were re-stained. They are now beautifully flush.
 

 
A number of build logs on MSW have also commented that the rear gunwale cheeks are too short. Not mine - mine dropped in perfectly after I shaved off half a mm. This is the completed rear of the boat, with the rear thwart, the backrest, and the completed gunwales.