captainbob

More progress om the mast......
 
Made the boom from a piece of Poplar wood I had laying around.

Added the pivot point to the end and made up the bands from aluminum sheet and some styrene rod I had.
 
Slowly but surly it's getting there, hoping I have it done for Christmas!

Amfibius - the wood supplied in the kit is mostly all very light basswood sheet and strips. I don't think you would like it if you left it unstained. I have used a Pre-Stain for most of the stained pieces I have done on this build, which I think helps a great deal with consistency of the finish. There were a couple of pieces that just would not take stain well, like the dowels for the masts and spars, so for these I used a very diluted acrylic paint, which matches the other stained pieces pretty well.

.......and other builds....I do.      the past B.S. that has been going on.....coupled with my slump in building,  is getting very dry.   I gotta liven up my build table.   so,  the first thing I did,  was tie off all the ropes on the mizzen shrouds,  and trim them.
 

 

 
I need to do the main mast shrouds......but there are a few thing I need to do still.   I decided to chop some wood.......about 22 of them.
 

 
then......drill some holes......they need to be all the same.   I used long pins to sand and square off the ends.
 

 
then thread some string,  and I came up with this.
 

 
I had made up these railings a while ago......this is where they are to go.
 

 
the rungs were cemented on the strings with real tiny drops of white glue.  they will be stained later on, and the rails will be painted red.   over the tops of the gun port lids,  there is a thin gap.  I intend to take some string,  stain it brown,  cut it to size,  and cement them in the gaps.  I don't think I'm going to anything with the hinges,  but I am going to cement in some eye bolts and rig them with ropes.
 

 

 
I went with ten rungs.......but I had the two extra {no mistakes}.......so I used them.   ohhhhhhh!  wait!
     I just had an after thought.....or a before thought,  seeing as I haven't done anything yet!   I really don't need all that anchor rope.....I'll just use some of that for the gun port lids!   sorry for thinking out loud........it's nice to know the stooges haven't fried ALL of my brain cells     see you at the next update. 
 
 

Here is an update on the barrels and served block strop. To complete the small barrels, I made a simple jig to hold the barrel, which is just a hole in a piece of basswood. The bottom of the barrel is flush with the under side of the hole, so that there is a constant distance from the bottom of the barrel to the top of the sheet. I just glued the black strips on keeping them flush to the sheet as I rotated the barrel, and of course just flipped the barrel around to do the top strip.
 

 
Here is how they came out, which is much better than when I tried to do this freehand.
 

 
Here is my first attempt at stropping the blocks with a served line. It is OK, but I think I can do better.
 

 

As I suggested in my last post I needed to sand off the end of the mould so that the keel assembly fits properly. This was hard work, but pretty straightforward. As you can see in the following pictures the keel now drops over the frames with no problem.
 
 
 
The next issue was how to stop the frames sticking to the mould when the components were glued together. I took all the frame parts off the mould and gave it another good polish. Then, starting at the MC position, I assembled each frame over the mould, glueing the futtocks to the floors with medium cyano and using the pushpins again to hold everything in the correct relationship. Once the glue was reasonably dry I removed the pins and then the frame. If the frame was stuck I held a piece of wood against the side of the joint and tapped gently until it popped off. Once or twice a frame became glued quite firmly and a bit of the mould came away stuck to the inside. The MDF is actually quite soft, so can be removed easily, and it is certainly better for a bit of the mould to be stuck to the frame rather than a bit of frame stuck to the mould. Occasionally the futtock/floor joint was a bit dry and came apart, in which case I just put everything back on the mould and re-glued the joint.
 

 
The small dots on the sides of the floor and futtocks mark the glued faces.
 
 
 
The next step was to drill through the frame joints twice each and insert short lengths of 0.5 mm brass wire. These represent the bolts used on the prototype and also strengthen the joint because they are glued in. Once these were dry I trimmed the over-length floors and futtocks using a razor saw and then rounded off the upper corners in each case. Finally I sanded all the exposed faces, making sure there were no traces of glue left around the joints and the ends of the bolts.
 
 
 
The finished frames were put back onto the mould and pinned in place, making sure the sides were vertical.
 
 
 
I made every other frame to start with so that I had more working room.
 
I haven't quite finished the frames yet - there are three still to do.
 
Next time: making the rebates in the sides of the keel and finishing the frames preparatory to fitting the keel.
 
Rob

Blinking lights, no less.  Sounds like a merry ol' time you'll be having.
 
Bob

Since the boat will be sailed you defiantly need to epoxy the inside of the boat.  And after each sailing you need to open the hatches and let the insides dry.  I have never seen an RC boat that did not get wet inside and without the epoxy the water gets into the wood and the next thing is a moldy, mildewy boat and that’s no fun.
 
Bob

Hello Shipmates.
Another update on the Lower gundeck.
Basic assembly done just the Deck carlings to machine and fit into place.
No Gluing done at this stage.. Just good old tight joints.
 
Sides being treenailed.

 
 
And the other side.

 
View from the underside of the deck.

 
View from the Top side.

 
Close up of a joint.

 
No Glue or pins in this yet .

 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Regards Antony.
 

I got to work first thing this morning,  finishing up the masting,  I then Installed the Bowsprit and Oar lock Blocks, Then the Toe Rail,  On this Toe Rail I decided to go against the Instruction Manual, and Install the  curve first,  working my way to the Bow then making the cut against the Bowsprit. It was alot easier to do it that way.  I was very pleased with the results I also added a comparison photo between the Kit and Keel # 1. Here are the Results

Since the boat will be sailed you defiantly need to epoxy the inside of the boat.  And after each sailing you need to open the hatches and let the insides dry.  I have never seen an RC boat that did not get wet inside and without the epoxy the water gets into the wood and the next thing is a moldy, mildewy boat and that’s no fun.
 
Bob

Thank you all for stopping in and the likes.
 
Thanks Bob, you never know what kind of oops or such that could pop
up and ruin the day.
 
I have competed the framing of the gun deck. Pretty straight forward and
at this size it turned out to be a lot easier to do.
 

 

 
 
Next in the mortar pit the walls need to be built. There are angles involved
and I didn’t trust myself to build it off the model and keep the correct
dimensions. Also there are four cross braces between the beams that
need to be put in.
 

 
So to help me keep it square and position the cross bracing correctly I clamped
the side walls in place and then started fitting the angles. This way once
completed I can mark the cross bracing, remove the walls, install the bracing
and then return the wall to it's correct location.
 

 
Here is just the top piece of the wall confirming the angle and length are correct.
 

 

 
 
Time will tell if this will work or not.  

Today On keel #3, I Stained and got one coat of varnish on the birch ply on frame #1 then did a few other areas out as well (Transom). Here are the results

I did manage to get a little model work in today, every little bit helps.  A few more shots to show how the work on the hull is progressing.  
 
Cheers,
Tim
 

 

 

 

 

I conducted a few brazing experiments with a small and large torch to see how they performed on small and large diameter wire.
This video includes annealing metal wire, how to make silver soldered eyes for hooks, and a few other suggestions and tips.

In particular, I try to show how tiny joints can be silver soldered using 'pellets' of silver solder.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuMoGam-Mww

More updates.  The upper decks are in.  
 

 

 

 
I will add four more guns on poop deck and then move forward with the masts and chain plates.  Also if any one has any ideas on colors to paint her that would be very helpful.  I'm really not sure what I want to do.  
 
 

Cabin Structure part 14
 
The inside beams were shaped with a paring chisel to clear the forward end bulkhead of the companionway.
 

 
Test fitting the frame of the hatch
 

 
The new boards were glued to the slightly modified hatch frame.
 

 
The next picture shows the rebate for a new piece of side rail on the hatch cover. I am more pleased with the aestetics of having the brass rail engage on the inside face rather than the outer ones. This enable the design to be a little narrower and not to overhang. I did not like the way the original design overhung the slide logs, it felt a bit clunky.
 

 
close up showing the curve detail the ends of slide logs. The top boards will get a half round covering batten.
 

 
The brass rails are fitted with some #1 flat head wood screws, and the hatch slides nicely
 

 
In the open position
 

 
The next part will cover the companionway drop in boards, and trim.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Fellow ship builders. At last, I have started working on my Schooner again, feels great to be back. But rest assured, I have followed many builds in MSW during the last 6 months.
 
I can't help noticing that the forum has taken a turn to period ships during the last year or so. Don't get me wrong though, I really appreciate all the efforts and nice logs of such builds as well. Hopefully there are still a few of you left that will apprechiate my Schooner log.
 
Anyways, I have completed the bow spirit. It is now complete with rigging details and dry fitted to the ship. I shall wait to glue it in place for a while, since the model will be so much more fragile once the assembly is fitted. The most challenging parts in completing the bow spirit were achieving a nice and clean mask between the black and white paint, and furthermore getting those tiny rigging details in place. Furthermore, soldering the jibb boom wye was a real challenge, as decried in previous posts.
 
I am happy with the outcome, the assembly appears crisp and without any real visible flaws.
 
I have started planning my next major step, which is to mount the model to its brass stands to my display board. Am i right in thinking that the water line needs to be horizontal, and that the full length of the ship will be "covered" by the length of the display board? Are there any rules of thumb when it comes to the brass stands positioning relative to the masts?
 
Enough said, I hope you enjoy the following pictures.
 
Over and out
 
/Alfons

 

 

 

 

 

 
Note the small bolt head on the underside of the jibb boom end . There are two iron rings in the jibb boom wey, allowing for both foot ropes and jibb boom guys to be fitted to port and starboard sides.
 

On Keel 1, I got the deck painted, Made the Bowsprit and started masting, I will be making the blocks and cleats again for this one (I am starting to get the hang of it) Here are the results from today

Thank you Michiel.
 
I've been making good progress on the deck framing. It sure helps having cut the parts ahead of time!
 

 

 

 

 
It still will need a good sanding to fair it all up but so far so good!  

I almost forgot..........last evening,  I got to see the movie about the Andria Gail again.   I started to think of the boulogne hull.....you know,  with a few modifications,  this hull could be altered to look like her........just a thought 
 
{that's usually what gets me into these messes if the first place} 

Ah planking...and the mindless doldrums begin

I did get work done on Keel # and #2 today. I first finished the cabin, and got it ready to varnish, Then I decided that I just need a cutwater and a rudder and I could varnish Keel #2 so I did that as well . Here are the results

I mentioned LED lighting.........this is something totally new to me.   I mean.....I've messed with Christmas lighting and all that........but lighting like this..........well.........    A friend of mine in Canada sent me a flasher unit a while ago....he dabbled quite a bit with trains,  and he thought I might find a use for it.  
 

 

 
it comes complete with an on / off switch.......and I believe the other one switches from flash to steady lighting.   looking at the size of the wiring,  I had a thought.  the admiral and I used to make cat 5 cables for a woman who used to be our landlord.   for those who aren't into computers and communication,  these are internet cables.   we used to make {and test.....ugh} about 1,200 a day.
 

 
we have a bunch of these on hand.   I took one of the shorter ones,  and stripped out the wires.   I forget what gauge they are....but they are the same size as the flasher
 

 
when I was done,  I had four sets......all color coded,  quite easy to map out the positive and negative.
      I don't recall if this is solid core or strand wire....I'd have to strip some out to see.  I don't believe it will matter though.   I had mentioned about doing the LED thing.......my {our} good friend Mobbsie offered me some that he had,  if I could use them........I can't thank you enough!   I'll watch the mailbox,I owe you one!     this will let you know that my gears are turning over here as well,   I'm on the look - out!
 

we had to run out for a birthday party Sjors.....sorry I had to cut you short.  .....getting confused.....well,  no not really......not when you have lots of boot boxes    I get new boots every year it seems.....I save the boxes  {they have a flip top lid}.  I used to keep the kit boxes around.......but they are quite bulky and take up a lot of room.   I just punch out all the parts and bag them according to step...long parts go in a planking bag {I have a lot of them from all the planking I've gotten already},  and I label them.   once everything's in the boot box,  I label that as well.  the parts panels get bagged and saved in a special box I have for them.  the boxes get stacked in the closet,  and the bags get put in one of the tubes in my organizer.....that's what two of the big tubes in the back are for {just the right height}.   every kit is now compact and set up is easy.
 
that's also the beauty with scratch built models......there aren't any parts!   I do have the trawler,  that I have already bought parts for....that build has a box.   when I start acquiring parts for the H.H. Fleet,  then I will set them up with a box.     now......if I only had a system for my tools
 
 
I have a little more to report on the hull frame that I dubbed  'Moe'.   I have the second row of planking on the bulwarks.   a few more rows,  and it might start to look like something 
 

 

 

 

 

 
the one thing I am really happy about,  is the shape 
 
 
 

Welcome! 
 
​I worked on several parts of Ogallala - the undercarriage components, several deck detail items and some of the wagon detailing.
 

 
The four undercarriage components that will be assembled inside the bottle set in place on the bottom of the lower hull section - from left: front axle, axle tiller, brake / tiller attachment beam and rear axle. The three cross pieces have pegs that fit into holes in the hull section. The tiller fits in a hole in the front axle. I did a mock fit-up in an imaginary bottle with a toilet paper tube neck to check that it can be assembled working through the neck. That test went well, I hope the real assembly will be as easy. The front and rear wheels will be attached to the axles before the axle assemblies go in the bottle.
 

 
Hatch frame with cover planks, and fore and main pinrails. The fore pinrail will also serve as the bits for the bowsprit. The belaying pins were cut from .010 inch (0.25mm) entomology pins. Each pinrail leg has a belaying pin reject glued into the end that will glue into holes in the deck upon assembly.
 

 
Deck details in their approximate positions for a photo.
 

 
Each cargo hatch has three simulated planks that need handles to use when they are removed for loading and unloading. I decided to try making ring bolts as handles. Here's the first one made from 40 gauge wire (.0055 inch / 0.14mm) with a ring that is 4 scale inches (100mm) in diameter - 1/32 inch (0.08mm) on the model. Yes, it was very fiddly. Just 17 more to make.
 
 
No photos yet on the exterior hull detailing, still in progress. Thanks for viewing.