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wefalck
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wefalck reacted to Ilhan Gokcay in Loreley 1884 by Ilhan Gokcay - 1/75 - Scale Steam Yacht
Side lights
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wefalck got a reaction from Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Coming along nicely!
In the past I used cored solder to represent such cringles. The bore was widened to a flare with a punch. The colour is close to zinc-plated hardware.
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wefalck got a reaction from Keith Black in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Coming along nicely!
In the past I used cored solder to represent such cringles. The bore was widened to a flare with a punch. The colour is close to zinc-plated hardware.
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wefalck reacted to druxey in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
I anneal brass tube, cut off slices and put them in a thickness jig to file both cut edges flat. I then place the ring on a steel block and flare both sides using a centerpunch.
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wefalck got a reaction from AON in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Coming along nicely!
In the past I used cored solder to represent such cringles. The bore was widened to a flare with a punch. The colour is close to zinc-plated hardware.
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wefalck got a reaction from Canute in Mystery Sternwheeler By Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - 1870's Mosquito Fleet Work Boat
Would the smoke-stack a single tube or would it have sleeve? If it was a single tube, there would be a lot radiation towards the 'cool box' ... Somewhere towards the rear of the boat would seem more logical from a thermal point of view.
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wefalck got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Finally got around to take a picture of the little rolling mill. As I said, it design purpose is to enlarge wedding-bands and the likes. For this different shaped grooves are cut into the rollers and there are several rollers with different groove geometries. As in this application the rollers would run at different speeds, two cranks are foreseen, allowing the move the ring forward and backward.
However, I plan to fit a couple of meshing gears, allowing the run the rollers synchronous from one crank as would be needed for rolling wire. This also frees one hand to feed the wire in.
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wefalck got a reaction from Ras Ambrioso in USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
Indeed, finding the right sequence of placing things on the model can cause a bit of headscratching, demanding foresight exercises, and imagining of possible interferences ... I tend to make the parts separately first and then paint and assemble everything.
Nice work so far, as others already said!
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wefalck got a reaction from Valeriy V in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Finally got around to take a picture of the little rolling mill. As I said, it design purpose is to enlarge wedding-bands and the likes. For this different shaped grooves are cut into the rollers and there are several rollers with different groove geometries. As in this application the rollers would run at different speeds, two cranks are foreseen, allowing the move the ring forward and backward.
However, I plan to fit a couple of meshing gears, allowing the run the rollers synchronous from one crank as would be needed for rolling wire. This also frees one hand to feed the wire in.
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wefalck got a reaction from Keith Black in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Finally got around to take a picture of the little rolling mill. As I said, it design purpose is to enlarge wedding-bands and the likes. For this different shaped grooves are cut into the rollers and there are several rollers with different groove geometries. As in this application the rollers would run at different speeds, two cranks are foreseen, allowing the move the ring forward and backward.
However, I plan to fit a couple of meshing gears, allowing the run the rollers synchronous from one crank as would be needed for rolling wire. This also frees one hand to feed the wire in.
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wefalck got a reaction from Canute in USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
Indeed, finding the right sequence of placing things on the model can cause a bit of headscratching, demanding foresight exercises, and imagining of possible interferences ... I tend to make the parts separately first and then paint and assemble everything.
Nice work so far, as others already said!
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wefalck got a reaction from Canute in San Francisco cable car by kgstakes - FINISHED - OcCre
Perhaps the real ones have a plastic sleeve over them - paint would wear off quickly.
Personally, I think brass looks nicer, but that then would be a deviation from the original - unless you can find old colour photographs from a time when they devoted the effort to polish the brass perhaps ...
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wefalck got a reaction from AJohnson in 14th century German knight by king derelict - FINISHED - Pegaso Models - 54mm
Perhaps your knight is a 'dragon whisperer' ?
Many years ago I built a model of a Knight Templar with the same kind of helmet. One thing I was never too happy with it the metallic appearance of the material. Somehow, the surface of these castings is always a bit uneven. I never tackled another model like this, but perhaps today I would look into smoothing the surface with a burnishing steel or agate, rather than just polishing it with a felt-wheel. Has anyone tried to burnish such metal parts ?
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wefalck reacted to Keith Black in Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
This has to be the quirkiest sternwheeler yet.
This was a homemade sternwheeler built in 1938 by then 58 year old former ship carpenter "Captain" A.O. Engel of Pittsburgh, PA. His intent was to travel down the Mississippi towing a 62 foot barge carrying Engel's first boat, a 50 foot cruiser battered in a then recent Pittsburgh flood. Engel's plan was to repair the cruiser once he reached his destination. At the time, in 1938, Billy cost Engel $1,000.00 (approximately $23,000.00 in todays money) not including labor and was named for a grandson.
I discovered this image on e-Bay, it was a listing for the original press photo with writeup on the back. You know I bought it, right?! I am drawn to these quirky sternwheelers like flies to a dead mule.
The cruiser kinda looks like a converted canalboat and is every bit as ugly as Billy, maybe even more so. If that duo were to knock on your door after dark you'd call the police.
This should be a kick in the pants.
Keith
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wefalck got a reaction from grsjax in 2x2x24 boxes for organizing wood strips
Can't you make such boxes yourself? You could fashion them as open trays right away.
I don't know in what sizes cardboard is sold in the USA, but if there are sufficient lengths, one can cut strips of the desired width and assemble them with old-fashioned packaging tape (the one that needs to be wetted, not the self-adhesive one, which looses its tackiness over the years) or perhaps duct-tape.
I for myself made a wall-hanging rack with horizontal shelves, so that short pieces can be kept at the front. Not an ideal solution, but the wall above my machines was the only place I had and here in Europe all materials are sold in 1 m lengths.
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wefalck got a reaction from thibaultron in San Francisco cable car by kgstakes - FINISHED - OcCre
Perhaps the real ones have a plastic sleeve over them - paint would wear off quickly.
Personally, I think brass looks nicer, but that then would be a deviation from the original - unless you can find old colour photographs from a time when they devoted the effort to polish the brass perhaps ...
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wefalck got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Valeriy, that's actually a clever idea, that could be possibly adapated in the other direction as well, meaning to very small half-round profiles, say below 0.5 mm wire diametres. Perhaps the process could be aided by embedding the wire during winding into shellac. Once machined, the shellac can be easily dissolved in alcohol to free the profiles.
I have used a similar process in the past by cementing with shellac short sections of wire to a small aluminium block and then grinding away half of the thin wire. The drum method obviously would result in longer and probably more uniform profiles.
And yes, by repeating the process on four sides, one could probably produce miniature square and rectangular profiles from round wire - I recently purchased a small rolling mill for this, but these profiles would still have slightly rounded edges.
👍🏻
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wefalck reacted to Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Moving on with the sails, I did give them an extra shot of buff to tone down the seam lines and give them a colour match. Once everything was fully dried I cut the silkspan from the frame then cut out the sails along my earlier drawn pencil lines... the seam lines are subtle but visible, which I think is how they should be...
I couldn't resist scrunching up the foresail and setting it in place between the boom and gaff. Just to check the fit and see how it might look...
Next I cut 1/8" (scale 6 inch) strips from the waste silkspan for the tabling. Using the waste means I get an exact colour match to the sails. Per advice received here on the forum and from the Maritime Museum I am setting them onto the port side of the sails. I brushed on water first, then diluted No Sew, which set down nicely with the tabling right along the sail edges.
I did not want the glued sails to stick to the frame, so once the tabling was set in place I carefully lifted the sails up off the frame and set them a bit to one side. You can see the No Sew left behind in the picture. They will now not stick to the frame, and once they are dry I can add the remaining tablatures.
Once the tabling is complete I will move in to the reinforcings. These are my first sails and so far, so good!
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wefalck got a reaction from Canute in 14th century German knight by king derelict - FINISHED - Pegaso Models - 54mm
Perhaps your knight is a 'dragon whisperer' ?
Many years ago I built a model of a Knight Templar with the same kind of helmet. One thing I was never too happy with it the metallic appearance of the material. Somehow, the surface of these castings is always a bit uneven. I never tackled another model like this, but perhaps today I would look into smoothing the surface with a burnishing steel or agate, rather than just polishing it with a felt-wheel. Has anyone tried to burnish such metal parts ?
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wefalck got a reaction from Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
It seems that the Staedtler MARS QuickBow set does not have the straight handle, there is no slot for it. I have various sets, from my father/mother and perhaps older ones, plus my own, which is from 1966 - they all have this straight handle.
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wefalck got a reaction from Rich Sloop in Highlighting Laser Engraving
For engraving in metal there are two methods:
- filling in with (black) paint; this should be a hard paint, so acrylics are not a good choice, as once the paint is dry, you would rub down the excess with fine(st) emery paper; this is a common process for instrument scales, door-signs, etc.
- applying metal black (on suitable metals) and then same process as above.
In principle the same technique can be applied to wood too. However, the wood needs to be sealed first with wood-sealer and then some gloss(!) varnish, so that excess paint can be wiped off quickly. Finally, the varnish can be rubbed down again or some matt varnish applied on top.
Again this technique can also be applied to (laser-)engraved surface that have been painted. One would not rub down the varnish, however, but rather apply a thin coat of matt varnish.
I have used all of the above techniques on a variety of materials.
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wefalck got a reaction from cotrecerf in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Valeriy, that's actually a clever idea, that could be possibly adapated in the other direction as well, meaning to very small half-round profiles, say below 0.5 mm wire diametres. Perhaps the process could be aided by embedding the wire during winding into shellac. Once machined, the shellac can be easily dissolved in alcohol to free the profiles.
I have used a similar process in the past by cementing with shellac short sections of wire to a small aluminium block and then grinding away half of the thin wire. The drum method obviously would result in longer and probably more uniform profiles.
And yes, by repeating the process on four sides, one could probably produce miniature square and rectangular profiles from round wire - I recently purchased a small rolling mill for this, but these profiles would still have slightly rounded edges.
👍🏻
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wefalck reacted to kgstakes in San Francisco cable car by kgstakes - FINISHED - OcCre
The earliest or oldest (how ever you want to look at it) is this picture. Black and white and those posts that we have been talking about look to me not painted. Probably bare metal or brass ? You tell me.
And then I found this picture as well.
Interesting what you can find.
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wefalck reacted to Valeriy V in Libertad 1925 by Valeriy V - Scale 1:100 - Spanish Type F Light Cruiser
Precision is essential when drilling the holes; this is the most difficult step. This is achieved using a coordinate table on a drilling machine.
The brackets themselves are soldered sequentially, using the pre-drilled holes. And there's nothing complicated about that.
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wefalck got a reaction from Keith Black in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
It seems that the Staedtler MARS QuickBow set does not have the straight handle, there is no slot for it. I have various sets, from my father/mother and perhaps older ones, plus my own, which is from 1966 - they all have this straight handle.
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