wefalck

Don’t know USN practices, but on this side of the pond gaiters were worn - if at all - by landing parties only. So, you could perhaps show a landing party drill on deck.
 
I tend to paint clothing etc. matt and anything flesh satin. Have been using mainly Vallejo Model Air paint even with a brush the last 15 years or so.
 
Watching your progress …

It is also quite possible to assemble silkspan-sails from individual panels and add doublings etc.:
 

Cutting the panels from a sheet of silkspan stabilised with acrylic varnish
 

Assembling the sail using acrylic varnish as glue
 

Boltropes, cringles etc. attached as per Allen's description, sail also painted to look 'tanned'
 

Sail rigged and reefing ropes attached
 
It also works with what is called silkspan over here in Europe, that is a very thin silk cloth.

I use a standard lifting office-chair with armrests. The inclination of the backrest can be also set. It was given to me for free as an office surplus.

I use a standard lifting office-chair with armrests. The inclination of the backrest can be also set. It was given to me for free as an office surplus.

Sailing ships alongside a wharf sometimes 'cockbilled' their lower yards (as in the image below of Port Adelaide in the 1860's) to avoid damage to the yards, but otherwise, as has been noted above, they would have been square. It was generally considered 'bad form' not to have your yards properly squared in port.
 
John
 

Hi Keith,
I actually fully agree with Kuparu on this one. Hadn't thought of that before, since echosounders are normally keel mounted on big ships, but there's no space for that on this one. 
The cap forward of it, is probably installed to deflect bubbles created by the bow wave, a common issue on echo sounders. On big ships, with larger drafts, there's no cap, but they are mounted more aft (relative to the bow) than on Cangarda.

Yes Eberhard they did explain that. They commented that the original would have been built by eye. No plans and no templates, and of course no two boats the same. They are indeed using templates to assist in accurately reproducing the original.

Somehow I haven't been aware of this project, thanks!
 
One process that seems to be not so in line with how they did it in the old days is the use of templates. OK, they try to replicate an existing ship. In those old days they probably strung a cord from bow to stern and used this as reference to ensure that the boat turned out symmetrical, but otherwise everything would have been shaped by eye, I think.
 

Thank you Steve.
 
And now something of a deviation.
 
I took a trip to Woodbridge (Suffolk) earlier today, just across the river from Sutton Hoo on the River Deben. Here a bunch of old codgers have decided to build a full sized replica of the Sutton Hoo ship using traditional methods and tools. 

They seem to have done a decent job on draughting the plans but don't seem too good at looking after them. Reminded me of my workbench.

They started by building a small scale replica. About 1/4 size.

Then they built a full sized replica of a segment of the hull.

Being a traditional build they are not using sawn planks - each plank is being split from the tree trunk using wedges and sledge hammer. They explained that this was quite a wasteful process - never being sure what the split would reveal or how the plank would turn out.


Keel and rai pieces:-


The planks are being shaped with axes off various types. The piece of wood hanging down just in front of the sawing horse is curved on one side to the shape the plank needs to be in the vertical direction. The shipwright is using this as a guide to hollow out one side of the board before shaping the other side to a uniform width.

The guide stick in use.

It seems that ancient shipwrights needed a good supply of clamps:-

My brother in law took too much of an interested so was given a demonstration of the ease with which holes are being drilled into the hull. The auger bears against the thrust plate on the chest and then apparently the heftiest shipwright available puts all his weight against the operators back while he turns the handles.
 

The ancients were quite sophisticated when it came to health and safety at work. In these modern times we can't apparently replicate everything. 

Very well worth visiting if you are ever over this way, particularly as the old codgers seem to like the diversion of talking to the public.
 
Some more photos:-
 











By the way - it was all free but donations were gratefully accepted.

Frames 31 -34 continued...
 
A little more progress - and a milestone; last four double frames in now.



Horns dry fitted...
 
 

And a glimps of the task ahead... I'll post a discussion of the counter framing in a while, which will explain the plan shown in more detail. 

Its taking shape now, with the perpendicular (or nearly) timbers 35 - 39 (shown above) next in line, followed by the cant timbers and stanchions that define the elliptical counter.
 

What I tend to do to such flat black parts is to run a soft pencil along the edges etc. to highlight them. Using a cotton stick, you can also slightly rub the graphite away from the edges.
 
Similarly, using dark-grey pastel, you can lightly highlight areas that would normally be more illuminated to accentuate say round parts. 
 
Depending on how you want to show the model, pristine builders's model style or slightly 'weathered', you can add traces of ash or rust around the furnace of the boiler using white or brown pastels.

Perhaps it's not design, but just how it came out ... they needed an outlet or inlet and the place was dictated by the interior arrangements. And/or it was too much trouble to remove an old feature ...

Perhaps it's not design, but just how it came out ... they needed an outlet or inlet and the place was dictated by the interior arrangements. And/or it was too much trouble to remove an old feature ...

The rudder blade ......

Don’t know USN practices, but on this side of the pond gaiters were worn - if at all - by landing parties only. So, you could perhaps show a landing party drill on deck.
 
I tend to paint clothing etc. matt and anything flesh satin. Have been using mainly Vallejo Model Air paint even with a brush the last 15 years or so.
 
Watching your progress …

"I think good lighting helps more than magnifyers." ... Unfortunately, there comes a time, when this doesn't help anymore 🥲

Dear all
 
Time flies - it's been two months since my last post! I have not been idle, there is progress and I do have a few pictures to share.
 
To start with, the hull has had two coats of humbrol enamel satin varnish. I had forgotten how good this is - very tough varnish, very easy to go on, no brush marks. I am done with water based varnishes.

Then the gunwales went in which was a fiddly job, more difficult than I expected.



I also installed the two bits of decking fore and aft. Everything is held in place with treenails.


I decided that my boat will have canvas covered decks, not sure whether this was actually used in America back then. It did not come out as nice as in the Deben, not sure why, I suspect the fabric I used being synthetic did not glue down as well as the cotton I used last time.




Edges trimmed, then the canvas was painted with ivory acrylic paint and then got two coats of Humbrol enamel Varnish. Then the gunwales went back in and were epoxied in place.




Some trim pieces were also added. Those scratch marks were later removed.


I ve used a few thousand tree nails on this boat, I have a couple thousand left but I need to sit down at some point and make a few. I got a small log that seems a nice dense wood. The cherry log I had was nicer but unfortunately I ve used it all.

All done!

Now time to fit in the rub rails. They had to be hollowed to fit nicely. My V chisel was very useful but needed constant sharpening.







Screws exchanged for tree nails


I added a strip at the top of the transom but forgot to take a photo.
Next the fish well. It was fiddly to make! I had some very old mahogany strips, bought about 15 years which I thought would be nice to use. Finished with Tung oil, it looks absolutely stunning!


And epoxied in place

Next was the engine cover, I again used mahogany but this was a recent purchase so very different. I again forgot to take a photo of the finished article but again, Tung oil really brings out such beauty!


I am now struggling with the vertical tiller. Chapelle mentions that the ropes would go round under the gunwales but I am struggling to figure out how this arrangement would work. Also, the plans bellow show a metal rod through the tiller - no idea what purpose this serves. If anyone has any thoughts, please do share - I am a bit stuck!

Note to myself: I need to remember to buy a propeller.
 
A final note re: future build. I have an ambitious plan but the investment in money and time will be very substantial and due to unfavorable current financial circumstances, I decided to postpone it a bit. 
 
However, I have kind of started working on something else, quite unusual project for me - If it shows potential, I ll go public with it!
 
Many thanks for taking the time to visit!
 
Vaddoc

Greetings:

Having finally decided how I want to deal with the saw, here's what I came up with. A pendulum saw would be appropriate for the type of roller table featured in the saw shed. Here is an example:

With this in mind, it was time to go to the scrap box to see what I could come up with:



The wood plank sits nicely on the rollers with just a bare minimum of clearance of the 2 wooden beams on either side of the saw. The saw machine is double hinged allowing it to be pulled across the table to saw the plank.

The remaining features of the saw shed (upper level, motor, drive shaft and belt) were next completed. These are all very well described in Grant's log so I won't repeat. There was no variation from the instructions. The final steps were construction of the cupola and the rusted metal roof. Here's a photo of some of the roof pieces after etching and some rust chalk applied.
 

 
Roofing in progress with cupola installed:
 


Prior to placing the roof supports and roof, I added 3 LED hanging lights. The wires are so small i just glued them to the overhead supports and vertical beams so the wires end up under the floor. These can be seen in some of the photos below of the completed saw shed.




And here are some photos with the lights on (with a worker wiping his brow):
 



Next up is the base which will begin the process of combining Foss landing and the Shipyard at Foss Landing.

jeff

Good to see here more progress indeed 👍🏻
 
These roller filing guides are useful implements. They used to be standard items on watchmakers lathes.

I have both, single and double roller filing guides (or 'rests' as the watchmakers call it), but never really understood the value of a single roller guide ...

... absolutely and if you are myopic in addition, this multiplies the magnification you get out of your myopia, when you take off your normal glasses. For years I got the 3x magnification by just replacing my normal glasses with plain safety-glasses. Now I need the additional magnification of reading glasses 😢

"I think good lighting helps more than magnifyers." ... Unfortunately, there comes a time, when this doesn't help anymore 🥲

... absolutely and if you are myopic in addition, this multiplies the magnification you get out of your myopia, when you take off your normal glasses. For years I got the 3x magnification by just replacing my normal glasses with plain safety-glasses. Now I need the additional magnification of reading glasses 😢

There is no 'scale' for rivets, only size. So the question is how big on the prototype would these rivets be?
 
Second question: what type of rivet? There are many ways in which rivetting and forming their heads can be performed: half round, countersunk (barely visible on a model), half countersunk, flush (which then would be invisible on the model), hollow rivets, etc. 
 
So a picture of the prototype you want to achieve would be needed to give you informed advice.
 
I would, however, suspect that rivets in 1/200 scale on AA gun mounts would be rather small, with heads of a diameter somewhere around 20 mm max. This means, that in at a 1/200 scale we are talking of diameters of less than 0.1 mm. Assuming that we are talking of half-round heads, the only practical way would be tiny (really tiny) blobs of paint or white glue. It would be a challenge to achieve consistent sizes. In summary, I think I wouldn't bother.
 
The tool you showed, although I don't know it, seems to be the kind used by aircraft modellers to indicate flush rivets by slightly marking the surface. This is not what you (presumably) need and the resulting marks would be grossly overscale anyway.

I have both, single and double roller filing guides (or 'rests' as the watchmakers call it), but never really understood the value of a single roller guide ...