wefalck

Thanks again for your moral support, verbal and via the buttons !
 
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A Mystery Resolved
 
When constructing the hull of the Rahschlup, it bugged me that there was no obvious way to free the deck quickly from larger amounts of water taken over in bad weather. The Jacht/Jagt-type vessels often have a gap between the covering board and lowest bulwark plank, but on all illustrations of Rahschlup-type vessels no such gap was visible. Freeing ports, as on modern ships came into use only later and the lead-lined gutters would not be sufficient.
 
Then I scanned through the images of the restoration project (https://www.jensine.dk, but the link does not seem to work at the moment) for the Danish Jagt JENSINE (1852) for a different reason and two images caught my eye:

 They show that sections of the lowest bulwark plank are actually hinged and can swing out. In calm weather they are secured with latches. Subsequently, I noticed similar features on other restored vessels.
I am not sure that this is an ideal solution for securing, as the wedges would need to be removed individually and kept for re-use. Also, the latch is attached to the plank section and could get caught between the plank and the covering board. I think a solution with a hook fastened to the stanchion that engages a staple in the plank would be a better solution.
 
How to represent such parts now in 1/160? Producing the hinges will be relatively simple, although they will be tiny, but the hooks is another matter.
 
For the hinges I took 2 mm long lengths of 0.1 mm tinned copper wire that was squeezed flat on my repurposed watchmaker jewelling tool to a predetermined thickness. These jewelling tools have a micro-meter stop that allows to very precisely set the distance between the anvil and the stamp. By squeezing, the ends of the flattened wire become rounded, which suited well the purpose. There was also a slight dimple in the anvil from the turning, which resulted in a slight boss in the middle of the strip to simulate the actual hinging mechanism. The ‘hinges’ were glued on with varnish.
 
The latches are another matter and had to be much simplified. A double L-shape was bent into a short length of 0.1 mm tinned copper wire to simulate the hook and then one end was squeezed flat to represent the part that would have been screwed to the bulwark. These tiny pieces were then glued with varnish to the lowest bulwark planks and to the bulwark stanchion.
 
I decided to make only every second space between the bulwarks ‘swinging out’ and scored the lowest plank on the outside lightly to mark these sections.

Unfortunately, these parts are so tiny, that they are almost impossible to photograph, unless I use my macro-photography set-up and then they would probably look discouragingly crude …
 
To be continued …

16th to 19th is a very wide time-frame and one would also need to distinguish between merchantment and naval ships, plus whether we are talking about permanent or moveable partitions.
 
At least from the 18th century on panelled partitions (as in doors in houses) were very common for 'better' partitions.
 

Thanks again for your moral support, verbal and via the buttons !
 
******************************************************************
 

A Mystery Resolved
 
When constructing the hull of the Rahschlup, it bugged me that there was no obvious way to free the deck quickly from larger amounts of water taken over in bad weather. The Jacht/Jagt-type vessels often have a gap between the covering board and lowest bulwark plank, but on all illustrations of Rahschlup-type vessels no such gap was visible. Freeing ports, as on modern ships came into use only later and the lead-lined gutters would not be sufficient.
 
Then I scanned through the images of the restoration project (https://www.jensine.dk, but the link does not seem to work at the moment) for the Danish Jagt JENSINE (1852) for a different reason and two images caught my eye:

 They show that sections of the lowest bulwark plank are actually hinged and can swing out. In calm weather they are secured with latches. Subsequently, I noticed similar features on other restored vessels.
I am not sure that this is an ideal solution for securing, as the wedges would need to be removed individually and kept for re-use. Also, the latch is attached to the plank section and could get caught between the plank and the covering board. I think a solution with a hook fastened to the stanchion that engages a staple in the plank would be a better solution.
 
How to represent such parts now in 1/160? Producing the hinges will be relatively simple, although they will be tiny, but the hooks is another matter.
 
For the hinges I took 2 mm long lengths of 0.1 mm tinned copper wire that was squeezed flat on my repurposed watchmaker jewelling tool to a predetermined thickness. These jewelling tools have a micro-meter stop that allows to very precisely set the distance between the anvil and the stamp. By squeezing, the ends of the flattened wire become rounded, which suited well the purpose. There was also a slight dimple in the anvil from the turning, which resulted in a slight boss in the middle of the strip to simulate the actual hinging mechanism. The ‘hinges’ were glued on with varnish.
 
The latches are another matter and had to be much simplified. A double L-shape was bent into a short length of 0.1 mm tinned copper wire to simulate the hook and then one end was squeezed flat to represent the part that would have been screwed to the bulwark. These tiny pieces were then glued with varnish to the lowest bulwark planks and to the bulwark stanchion.
 
I decided to make only every second space between the bulwarks ‘swinging out’ and scored the lowest plank on the outside lightly to mark these sections.

Unfortunately, these parts are so tiny, that they are almost impossible to photograph, unless I use my macro-photography set-up and then they would probably look discouragingly crude …
 
To be continued …

Steve, Francios, John, Craig, Rick, ERS, Roel and Gak - thank you for your supportive comments and also thanks to everyone for the likes.
 
I am trying to get ahead before Christmas impinges on workshop time. This year will be the first Christmas without our daughter at home - not bad going seeing as she is now unbelievably 41. She pointed out recently that it was about time that I stopped holding her hand when she was crossing the road, I felt a bit stupid because I never noticed that I hadn't stopped doing it. We are not at home for Christmas - the grandchildren are now 6 and 2 and their parents have decided it is time to break with their practice of alternating Christmas's between grandparents, they are staying at home. It is our turn for Christmas day with them and we are on child care duties as of the 21st Dec. 
 
Anyway - recent progress:-
 
I need to finish off a few bits of internal detail in the owners cabin. The portholes were the major outstanding parts.
 
The bolted flange of the porthole is the most obvious feature. It is painted white to match the internal finish of the room. I made all the flanges that I needed in one go - 20 in all. I made the flanges from 1/32" plasti-card cut from sheet.

I then drilled each piece to form the bores of the flanges. These were all mounted on turned spigot of dowel with double sided tape holding them together. A hollow section of dowel was then used to compress and retain the pieces, the compression being provided via the tailstock.

The flanges were then cut to size on the lathe.

The assembly was then taken off the lathe and the flange holes were drilled on the mill using a rotary table.

The finished flanges were then separated using white spirit.

I then fitted the rivets (brass pin heads) to one flange and made a simulated hinge from a pin and bits of brass tube.

Simplified lugs for the closures were made from plasti-card followed by assembly.

Having made one I proceeded with another 9. The other 10 will be left for later.


At this stage I also made the bedside wall mounted light - among the portholes in the next photo.

The portholes are actually mounted in recesses in the walls but this was a a detail that I thought I could do without.

I haven't made the chairs yet - something to worry about later. 
 
I am planning to move on to the aft guest cabin. Like the owners cabin it has a glazed deck hatch above it. It is a much tighter space and given its position closer to the stern is quite a complex shape. It could prove to be an interesting test.
 
Hopefully one more update before Christmas.
 
 
 
 

16th to 19th is a very wide time-frame and one would also need to distinguish between merchantment and naval ships, plus whether we are talking about permanent or moveable partitions.
 
At least from the 18th century on panelled partitions (as in doors in houses) were very common for 'better' partitions.
 

I bought this at a buy swap sell for AUD $100 a few years ago. I’ve been waiting on someone to make some 3D parts that don’t cost more than the kit. A local bloke at Leadfoot models does some lovely car stuff and recently did the wheels, brake drums and the footstep. There is a European mob that does a 3D fuel tank but out exchange rate makes it far more than I paid for the kit. It’s a beautiful car, I won’t show off the engine, others have done that to perfection and I’ll never get that good, so I’ll enjoy it for what I can. 

Had this booklet for many years, don’t remember when I bought it during my repeated visits to the NMM, when it was still intact.
In the mid-1990s I used the half-model as a template for the dinghy for my late 1860s steam-tug project in 1:60 scale - mainly because the strakes were developed, which came very handy at this scale.
The model was constructed over a wooden plug with bent wooden frames and strakes made from bakelite paper. Transom and all internal timbering again are wood.

Unfortunately the 5 cm long model is a bit obscured by the tug‘s deck fittings.
 

Thanks for your kind words.
 
I am actually planning a miniature version in 1:160 scale for my current project.

Had this booklet for many years, don’t remember when I bought it during my repeated visits to the NMM, when it was still intact.
In the mid-1990s I used the half-model as a template for the dinghy for my late 1860s steam-tug project in 1:60 scale - mainly because the strakes were developed, which came very handy at this scale.
The model was constructed over a wooden plug with bent wooden frames and strakes made from bakelite paper. Transom and all internal timbering again are wood.

Unfortunately the 5 cm long model is a bit obscured by the tug‘s deck fittings.
 

How were these guns trained? I know larger one were put onto curved tracks, but in SE England coastal valley, there doesn’t seem to be much space. Or were they rotated? But then one would need some lateral supports on the rail-carriage to take up the recoil forces.
 
Nice paint job, btw.
 

@wefalck, your version will be an inspiration for my hoped-for model-to-be! Yours is a beautiful piece.
 
Trevor

How were these guns trained? I know larger one were put onto curved tracks, but in SE England coastal valley, there doesn’t seem to be much space. Or were they rotated? But then one would need some lateral supports on the rail-carriage to take up the recoil forces.
 
Nice paint job, btw.
 

Had this booklet for many years, don’t remember when I bought it during my repeated visits to the NMM, when it was still intact.
In the mid-1990s I used the half-model as a template for the dinghy for my late 1860s steam-tug project in 1:60 scale - mainly because the strakes were developed, which came very handy at this scale.
The model was constructed over a wooden plug with bent wooden frames and strakes made from bakelite paper. Transom and all internal timbering again are wood.

Unfortunately the 5 cm long model is a bit obscured by the tug‘s deck fittings.
 

Had this booklet for many years, don’t remember when I bought it during my repeated visits to the NMM, when it was still intact.
In the mid-1990s I used the half-model as a template for the dinghy for my late 1860s steam-tug project in 1:60 scale - mainly because the strakes were developed, which came very handy at this scale.
The model was constructed over a wooden plug with bent wooden frames and strakes made from bakelite paper. Transom and all internal timbering again are wood.

Unfortunately the 5 cm long model is a bit obscured by the tug‘s deck fittings.
 

Had this booklet for many years, don’t remember when I bought it during my repeated visits to the NMM, when it was still intact.
In the mid-1990s I used the half-model as a template for the dinghy for my late 1860s steam-tug project in 1:60 scale - mainly because the strakes were developed, which came very handy at this scale.
The model was constructed over a wooden plug with bent wooden frames and strakes made from bakelite paper. Transom and all internal timbering again are wood.

Unfortunately the 5 cm long model is a bit obscured by the tug‘s deck fittings.
 

Yep, all the research I’ve done (I bought the book) shows this is the most basic of all the carriages. The recoil would be amazing. 

Hi guys...
 
This was coast defense railroad artillery.... And the D-Model designation is Mk I which is the designation of the carriage not the gun itself... The Gun itself is a Mk III to a Mk VI  adapted to the Mk I deep well railroad carriage... 
 
Here is a picture of one in operation in France....

from "THE FIELD ARTILLERY JOURNAL". VOLUME VII NUMBER 2. April-June 1917. THE UNITED STATES FIELD ARTILLERY ASSOCIATION WASHINGTON, D. C. Downloaded from http://sill-www.army.mil/FAMAG/1917/APR_JUN_1917/APR_JUN_1917_FULL_EDITION.pdf This photograph Q 4280 comes from the collections of the Imperial War Museums.
Photograph of British BL 9.2 inch gun, Mk III* or Mk VI HMS Iron Duke, mounted on Mk I railway truck, in action at Maricourt, France, during the Battle of the Somme Sep. 1916.
 
There were no  Mk I guns produced in 1896 as they were deemed deficient.... Most of these guns were reclamations from the Royal Navy as they replaced them on their capital ships...
 
The Guns had a 10 deg traverse left to right on the mounting any further traverse was accomplished by moving the gun on it's curved track to change it's bearing on target... It's elevation was 28 degrees which was improved to 35 degrees sometime in 1916...
 
All of these guns were scrapped after WWI... The only ones that were saved were the Mk XIII model and those are the ones that served into WWII... They were mounted on a straight back carriage.....

 
Interesting gun....
 
Beautiful model Brother....
 
 

How were these guns trained? I know larger one were put onto curved tracks, but in SE England coastal valley, there doesn’t seem to be much space. Or were they rotated? But then one would need some lateral supports on the rail-carriage to take up the recoil forces.
 
Nice paint job, btw.
 

Quick scan on wiki: theMk1 truck allowed for a 10 degree left-right traverse and a 28 degree elevation. Therefore: limited range and limited possibilities for proper aiming….
(And my guess is that the railway didn.t take the recoil very well, especially when the gun wasnt parallel to the track)
 
Jan

Thank you wefalck for the incite to the slot. I am sure you are right about the rubber boots too. 
 
Let me introduce you to a famous Maine boot first made in 1912.   These are the L L Bean boots that even today are extremely popular.  We in Maine all where a version of them around here over the next several months. The lined ne for snow and the unlined are especially popular in spring. I will admit however our outside durations do not approach the conditions of these brave explorers or fisherman either.

cheers 

Gjoa 7. Complete rudder and bulwark "shelf"
 
This week I have been able to get a few things done. I am about the middle of this stage and planning for the next one.
1-4. these four view show getting replacement drill bits, so I can complete the last pintel, and the laying out of the tiller by scaling a drawing.  I have a few sheets of pear wood that are great for this type of detail work. The third and forth view show installation and  the trimmed-out transom. I keep learning the hard way how critical it is to stabilize things like brass strips when drilling tiny holes.  I have broken many drill bits. 5 this view is a group of new poplar strips I milled to use for both the bulwark shelf and cap rails.   6-9 show the progress of the shelf 10-11. these views show all the belaying pins are in and the steel rod shelf supports are going in.  I am thinking to keep the brass pins brass. I know they should be darker but I like the look. Next up will include the cap rails. And planning for deck furnishings
 

Well, this slot under the lowest bulwark-plank seems to have common feature on smaller vessels all around the Baltic and Scandinavia, particularly, when the water-way was more or less flush with the deck. I have seen many original vessels and models like this.
 
Another option would have been hinged freeing ports that were locked in fine weather with a latch. The freeing ports are essentially the lowest bulwark-plank divided into sections that are individually hinged. I will discuss this particular feature in the forthcoming post on my building-log for a Rahschlup.
 
In the 1870s seaboots commonly would not have been rubber although such boots seem to have been manufactured since the middle of the century. They were oiled leather, above knee-length and had either wooden or heavy leather soles with hob-nails. In the Arctic, rubber-boots would have been impractical, as the rubber becomes stiff and brittle, prone to cracking and also conducts heat much better than leather - cold feet guaranteed in spite of heavy woolen socks. 

How were these guns trained? I know larger one were put onto curved tracks, but in SE England coastal valley, there doesn’t seem to be much space. Or were they rotated? But then one would need some lateral supports on the rail-carriage to take up the recoil forces.
 
Nice paint job, btw.
 

That should do it