albert

Another photos
 
     

Hi Johann very very wonderful work.

Ratlines completed. The good news: ratlines are not really that hard to do once you get in the rhythm of tying clove hitches; I only have to do them about once a year; Halifax has ratlines only on it's lower shrouds and has only three shrouds per side on each of it's two masts, thereby cutting down the number of knots to be tied. The bad news: doing ratlines is undoubtedly the most tedious, boring and annoying task on any build.
 
Having said all that, they are now done and attention can be turned to the spars and running rigging.
 
Bob

Happy New Year 
 

Fore part of the lower deck framing underway.
 
ben

Continuation. 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel
 
 
 
 

Finally the Christmas season is over and I could continue shipbuilding. The next item was deck building. From previous projects nice scale 0,5 mm aluminum chequerplate was left over, so I decided to use that for the deck. But unfortunately the left overs were soon consumed, and more plate had to be bought from a company in Germany.
The deck consists of many plates, of which I made carefully garboard templates first, and only after satisfied with them, cut the final plates with jeweler`s saw and very fine blade.
Deck plates will be sprayed first with etch primer, and after that painted with green paint. Nobody knows the original color of the deck, but during the sixties it has been painted green, so I will use that.
 
After the deck plates were made, I started to make the main deck upper structures. They have to be very light to keep the center of gravity as low as possible, so I decided to make them of 1 mm aircraft quality birch plywood and 0,6 mm veneer. First I thought to build internal structures too like chairs, benches, tables, etc, but they would add too much weight to the upper parts of the ship, so I decided to omit them and build only the walls.
 
 
Deck building was started from stern. This plate will be removable, in order to get into upper end of rudder axle, if necessary. Other plates will be glued permanently into the hull.

 
 
 
Half of the deck made. At this point I was run out of the chequerplate and more had to be bought. The supply from Germany was not so fast as anticipated, so there must have been long Christmas holidays also in Germany.

 
 
 
 
Finally new plates arrived and work could continue.

 
 
 
 
Upper structure walls for main deck were built using 1 mm birch plywood and 0,6 mm birch veneer.

 
 
 
The sternmost structures on the main deck ready waiting for details and staining. Mahogany colored stain was used.

 
 
Door handles and hinges were made of styrene, painted with brass colour and glued into doors.

 
 

I pulled the pre-cut pieces off the formers this morning, and they bent very nicely to the hull. After pondering the not insignificant program of shaping a curved blank, I think I will have more success with the original plan of bending pre-cut pieces. This allows me to shape tight fitting joinery while pieces are still flat, then bend.
 
There was a little more spring-back on the these pieces that I had previously boiled, compared to the blank I bent the other day that had not been steamed or boiled before. So the boiling did seem to affect the wood before the steaming. Only steaming from now on..
 
Mark

Hooray, the glue-up is completed, and it ended up ok. Even thought it was a stressful time race against silicone and epoxy, trying to make sure nothing falls apart, avoiding smearing adhesives all over the place, while trying to hold it together with swears and load bearing masking tape
 
Overall the design is really super light, the case weight without the base is just 6kg (2.4kg for the front glass and the rest is 3.6kg). Most of that weight is plexiglass, I would be surprised if all that pear sticks combined weigh more then a 0.7-0.8kg.  
 
The corners have some slight gaps, that should be far less visible once sanded.

 
The pre-finishing was done mostly for the areas that are hard to reach, but all exposed flat surfaces would be sanded/scraped to be perfectly flush, and then re-oiled. Will do it once the case is mounted - without anything in the back, it wiggles without the front glass. When mounted, top corners would be attached to the wall with recessed brackets that were prepared in advance:

 
With the glass attached, a bit of scraping is required to ensure gapless fit:

 
Here is how the glass connects to the case, basically lots of magnets and a boxwood strip that locks the top side with the glass, preventing sagging:

 
LED strips as seen from the inside. Sorry for the photo quality, but the strips are in recesses, should not be visible for the observer.

 
Now the case is in the corner, hiding from the Admiral

 
Just a few things left:
1) Mount the base on the wall, if it is too heavy - remake it from a thinner plywood.
2) A bit of planing to ensure good fit to the wall
3) Plank the case "floor"
4) Glue the case to the base
5) Add a decorative pear skirt to hide the base
6) Sand everything flush, re-oiling
7) Connect the wiring, install the light switch and the dimmer.

I used a "few" clamps to clamp up and glue the knee and stem

Since my last visit last year I have redone the can frames and hawse timbers again, now I am on version 3.  Version 2 worked, but I discovered I had incorrectly shaped them.  No one but me would've known, but I knew I could do better.  I think the version I have now will work and I will be mostly satisfied.  I don't think I can do any better, especially since these are based from plans I developed that I "hope" are accurate. 
 
Here is version 3
 
Still a long way to go before I finish them...

 
 
 

Hi Johann very very wonderful work.

Hi Johann very very wonderful work.

Happy New Year 
 

Wow, I can't believe how long it is since I last made a post here, I have been keeping up with peoples logs and incredible work going on and been doing some work on my own boat, recently I have finished the pumps and associated brass work and have bee making the 26 Ft cutter over the last few weeks
Merry Xmas and a happy new year to everyone and I hope it won't be as long until my next post
Regards
Paul
 
Ps excuse the dust and hopefully I took some better pictures of the pumps which I will upload next week

Thanks, Michael. I always appreciate your keen eye and ideas for tooling.
 
Now I have successfully bent a piece, I need to think how I am going to shape it. I am thinking about attaching it to a backing piece that would allow me to clamp it in a vise, as shown in the drawing. Unless someone has a simpler idea.
 
Just for fun, I steamed the original pre-cut pieces that I previously boiled and could not get to the right curvature. They appear to have bent to the former after steaming, as seen in the last photo, and we will see how much spring-back I get tomorrow morning.
 
This is an impromptu experiment in the advantages and disadvantages of cutting and then bending, or vise versa...
 
Mark

@JOUFF
@cog
Thanks for the kind words.
 
It continues with the construction of the steering gear.
The previous version was also not satisfactory.

Here I show the trial assembly. Only when it can be ensured that everything fits, then the steering gear comes on the ship model.

 

@cog
Hello Carl,
here I show a comparison of both steering gears.
I think that now it is better
I promise: I will not grumble any more ...

Happy New Year 
 

Ooooh! Is it CNC cut or hand carved? Never saw such a smooth carving in this scale!
Any chance to see this model in person in Rochefort, October 2018?

Bravo, Alberto!  Love the figurehead.
 
Ed

Happy New Year 
 

Happy New Year 
 

Another photo

Great beautiful work Ed, bravissimo.

Happy New Year,
Albert!
 
The figurehead is fantastic ... wow ...!
What kind of wood is she made of?